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Showing results for tags 'pads'.
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ok im looking to see if there is a link or post here on sparkplugs im realy into tearing the bike down. with a good yamaha rider. not a venture owner. but has a stable full of old yamaha,s ok he got my tires from the guy who was suppose to have done them the last time and didnt. also got my brake pads and did the rotors. so i now know i have the new tires on the new brake pads and the rotors. bike is realy starting to come along thank the good man above for this man. well he decided to pull the plugs. due to me useing the seafoam and still haveing some idle issues and slight backfire on right hand side. well the rear spark plug on the right hand side had something hard and black stuck between the electroid and the L on the bottom? so im thinking this plug wasent fireing? sorry i didnt snap a pick but it looks like a hard piece of coal?. where going to install fresh plugs. and recheck idle and stuff. he doesent have a sync tool or know how to sync the carbs. so anything i can do or try. also what type of glue can i use to fix some cracks in the side covers? both are cracked about 2 inches on the front part of the covers . or should i use a hot solder gun and melt them from the back side?
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PILLOW TOP™ SADDLEGEL™ SEAT PADS http://images.dragspecialties.com/images/brands/Fatbook/2009/274.JPG:confused24:
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I say thanks to all who take the time to post information about the Ventures. It's my 8th Yamaha but my first RSV. Put the Dunlop Elite 3 on the rear, moly 60 on the drive pins and new rear brake pads so I'm ready for the season. Would not have know to do all this but for the great folks on this site. Again, thanks, Jerry (AKA starrider60)
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How long do you go between changing out brake pads on your ride..........My Vstar is in the shop and they called and said I needed new brake pads front and back. I have right at 20,000 miles on them right now.................I dont believe I have abused the brakes, I thought I would get more out of them..............:think:
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Anyone have experience with "buckeye's" Carbone brake pads for a '83 especially compared to the EBC HH pads. Price difference is about $10/set in very round numbers. Buckeye says theirs are sintered pads as well. My current pads (back) are 3/4 gone and the left front is just starting to squeek after 8K miles I am almost sure those were OEM. Thanks!
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Has anybody had any experience with these pads ?? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-Brake-Pads-XVZ-1300-XV-1600-Royal-Star-Silverado_W0QQitemZ200396948242QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2ea896c312#ht_2983wt_872 I just bought a rear set from local dealer ( $ 47 including tax )
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Getting the bikes ready for the ride to Daytona. We replaced Redbeards 99 RSV front pads. When we took off the old pads, both copper/brass shims were mising from both sides? Did this shim come on a 99? I know I have them on my 2001. What purpose do the shims serve? We simply replaced the pads, leaving out the shim, but what effect does this have on the brakes?
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Noticed front brakes were getting real noisey? Pulled pads and seemed to have 50-60% pads left, but they seemed awfully glazed. Had some new EBC's on the bench so replaced them anyways? Bled system and took for a ride. Now I don't know if its my imagination or I screwed up, but brakes seem really Soft? Seems I have to pump them to get them to grab hard. Now they do stop the bike, but I feel they should grab much harder than they do? I'm gonna re-bled the system to ensure all air is out but I have a feeling in the back of my head that the pistons are sticking???? I've gone through three sets of pads on the rear, have 35k on the fronts and still 60% left? wondering if this hasn't been an issue for a bit? If I have to take apart the calipers, rebuild, is it a big deal? Searched for a post here, but???? Theres a procedure in the manual, but sometimes folks here have such better insite????? Is there a rebuild kit that needs to be ordered? Leaving for biketoberfest the 14th, so would like to have it done by then???????????? Any help? Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Hi folks.. I'll soon be installing a new rear disc and pads on my 2006 RSV.. mine is so badly cut into, there is a pronounced lip at the outer edge of the disc that now cuts into the new pads I install. Fun huh Once I have the new disc and HH pads installed, brakes bled and pistons cleaned up, what's the proper way of 'breaking them in'? A fast speed slam the brake on, or a slow long progressive application of the brakes or frequent on off applications? I recall someone telling me about not doing it a certain way to prevent 'glazing' the disc right away, thus defeating the benefit of a new disc.. Any thoughts on this? Hopefully soon I'll be all braided steel lines and the new rear brakes.. Thanks in advance.
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I Know this has been talked about in the past, But i'm still wondering what pads to use on my 1st gen. Seems theres organic and sintered. I'm planning to pull a trailor next year with 2up rideing.. Theres pads on e-bay that seem cheeper then anyware else. I'm cheep so i'm looking. Any comments?
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My front right brake has recently begun to squeal quite loudly when I use it. The pads aren't that old. I can't recall what manufacture they are but they were a quality item recommended by a trustworthy wrench at the time of a tire purchase. The rotor looks ok but I have yet to get a measurement of its thickness. Perhaps tomorrow. Assuming the thickness is ok, I am thinking of swapping inboard and outboard pads one for the other on that side. Suggestions? Thanks, Brian H.
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I did my rear brake pads today, again it got down to just about metal on metal wear while out on the last road trip.. The inside pad wears out much sooner than the outer pad and seems to wear even more at the back of the pad.. this is where the metal on metal wear was just about ready to start.. I looked at the disc carefully and am not sure if mine is pooched or if this is the way it is supposed to be where as the outer most edge of the disk is thicker than the surface where the pads contact.. In other words, if I were to tighten down a C-Clamp half down the contact surface of the disc, I would not be able to slide if up and off as there is a 'shoulder' at the outer most edge.. Is it possible that previous pads might have ground down into the disc thus making it 'unserviceable'? Are new discs expensive? Are there better alternatives? Can the existing ones be dressed or cleaned up? On the same note, if your discs are 'glazed' from the pads, how do you un-glaze them? Cheers!
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RE: help me out of this mess Post earlier- 87 Venture Royale with pulsating brakes and washer questions- Got my new brake pads today, and then I spent time aligning the caliper housing. I swear that aluminum bracket was cantered a few degrees off of perpendicular to the axle. I threaded a large carraige bolt through it and used "my little freind" (see pic). A few whacks clearly nudged it. I wonder how it got bent. Then i had to only shim the back bolt with one thin washer. Everything looks square, and the pads are even and the rotor is tracking very close to center front and back. I can't test drive it of course until my new throttle cables arrive, but the rotor is no longer hanging anywhere in the rotation of the wheel. [ATTACH]35449[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]35450[/ATTACH]
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What is the expected life of front brake pads? I bought my 05 almost two years ago with 5,000 miles. It now has 23,000 on it. I bought a set of pads to put on before heading out to the rally the pads on there seemed almost new. The inner pads seemed to be a little more worn, but none were even halfway yet. Is that normal wear? Jim
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what type and make of pads are you using while pulling the extra weight of a trailer???
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Background..... I had the 93 VR "professionally" serviced 4 days before my trip of the parkway was to begin.....bad move. I told the young man at the independent shop I was heading out for 3-5K miles and please check it over and inform me if it needed ANYTHING before the trip and I would have them take care of it....don't need problems on the road. To begin with the tech dropped my bike in the parking lot. after riding it into the service area for him I waited about 4 hours for the oil change and "checkover" and for them to try to find a replacement for my hiway board that broke when it hit the ground. 2 days later they had my new board and I installed it. The trip begins.... Rolled out Monday down I65 out of Indy and all was great until the bridge going into Louisville. I noticed a huge RV towing a crewcab pickup slowing in front of me ...slowing significantly... so I back off the throttle and cover the brakes. All of the sudden the RV jams the brakes(no lites hooked up on the towed truck) and the fun begins......squalling, sliding and bouncing on the lovely bridge surface I stopped just short of the back of the towed vehicle only to see the driver of the RV jump out, run to the guardrail ......AND SNAP A PICTURE OF THE RIVER !!! The RV pulled away and after a short cursing session I roll away and hear a noise in the front of the bike....RF brake is now grinding metal to metal. 1st rest stop on I64 i pull off to see what happened and both RF pads are completely worn out and the lining is gone on the inside. just a note...all cycle dealers in the south are closed on Mondays. I ease my way closed dealer to closed dealer all the way to Lexington KY and finally can't stand it anymore...the noise or thought of going into mountain terrain with minimal front brake ...so I stop in a rest area and swap pads from the left to the right caliper to get descent front brakes....and cautiously go on into Gatlinburg trying not to use the rear brake any more than necessary. next note...cycle dealers in TN and NC are closed on Tuesday. Wednesday morning I get on the phone and find a set of pads about 80 miles away. so here we go...I ride in and buy pads for both sides and put them on in the parking lot. and replace my missing "gremlin bell" By this time the remenants of the hurricane moving in from the south east has caught up with me..so I head north rather than try the parkway in torrential rains and 40mph+ winds. Rode in a nice hole of blue sky to Cave City KY and as the black clouds closed in I stopped for the night. Thursday AM I left out to come on home and rode in rain to Madison IN where it turned to hail...really noisey and kinda stings the exposed skin. But got home that evening safe and sound. This was an important trip for me not for the ride but for the learning experience. The Blueridge Parkway will still be there next year.... All in all it was still a great trip...I am alive to try again Lessons learned.... Never take a professionals word that your machine is OK If they drop it....don't let them work on it !!! Don't try to time your vacation by the weather channel And...... Make damn sure your Gremlin bell is there !!!
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Anyone have experience in silencing the front break squeak. I have new pads. Should the rotor be turned like a car's?.
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Can the front brake pads be checked without taking the calipers off or apart? I don't know exactly what I am looking at or for. Is there a measuremet that would indicate the pads need replacement? Thanks, Jim -
Looks like it's brake pad change time coming up soon in the front.. most likely in the rear as well.. Instead of the Yamaha pads.. what's the general consensus on the EBC Double-H Sintered Brake Pads? Do people feel they perform better? Last any longer? Thanks in advance.. Cheers
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Could some on tell me which pads are best to order and from where. Need both front and rear pads for 06 RSV. thanks
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Any of you guys ever put a caliper (the measuring sort) on your rotors? I installed HH sintered pads on the RF brake (the one that works with the lever) about 19k miles ago. I had heard mixed reports that sintered pads can be hard on rotors, so I miced the rotor at installation, after a couple thousand miles, and again this morning. Then I looked in the manual. I included the boring details below for those of you inclined toward boring details, but in short, both my front rotors are under the min thickness spec. It seems that there is only about .020" from new rotor thickness to minimum thickness, which is a little chincy I think. So I wonder how many others have rotors worn below spec? How many ever measure to find out? EBC sells rotors for about $150 each for these bikes. Has anybody used them? Thanks, Jeremy BORING DETAILS! I checked out my brakes. The sintered pads have been on the RH front brake for 19k miles and are maybe 2/3 worn out. Interesting, because the LH front and the rear organic pads - which I have never replaced so they have at least 26K, and I don't think the PO replaced them so they have more than that - are still very thick. I thought sintered were supposed to last longer, although that's not why I put them on (I wanted the extra bite with the hand brake). Either that info is incorrect OR I use that one front brake (hand lever) a WHOLE lot more than the linked foot brake, which is entirely possible given old habits. Both front rotors have a ridge on them that measures .281, so that must have been the starting thickness. At 54k when I installed the HH pads, I measured .253, .243, and .240 working from just under the ridge toward the axle. Now at 73k I measured .248, .239, .234. So there's been 5-6 thou of wear. If you look at the original thickness, and figure that 5-6 thou" represents 19k out of 73k total miles, and that 19k had heavy usage on that brake, it's pretty reasonable wear really. I wonder if organic pads would have done the same? For comparison, the LH rotor today measures .255, .248, .246 (I didn't measure it before), which are closer to the RH "sintered" numbers than to the original .281. I just checked the manual and the listed minmum thickness for the front rotors is .260, so mine were under that before I got the bike. Hmmm...
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I bought some brake pads to go on my motorcycle, but I don't need them right now. Do I need to lay them flat or hang them up in order to keep them from warping? Or would it be better to just take them back since I might not need them to next year? Thanks tim
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I am sure this has been talked about but would love to have some input...I need to replace my Brake pads on my 06 Midnight venture. There is so many diffent pads out there so would like some input on type and good places to buy them from.
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So I find myself having a few rear brake problems. I went to breakingparts and got both of my tires changed last week and found that the rear pads were gone, the inside was metal to metal. Earlier that day I had started to notice some feedback when applying the rear brake. I never thought the rear pads would be gone already because they only had 6000 miles on them. When we pulled the rear wheel, we found that the rotor was grooved. When I got home, I put on an old set of pads that should have several thousand miles left in them until I could get to the stealer and get a new set. I got the new set and put them on Monday and the brakes acted fine since then, so I thought. Yesterday I was riding on the interstate (75-80 mph) and noticed that 'burning brakes smell' and wondered if it was me. When I stopped I did not detect the smell near the rear wheel, but did find that that the rotor was hot. I called cyclebrakes.com today and have ordered a new rotor and new pads. When I talked to them, they seemed to think that my caliper may need to be rebuilt. They said that if the caliper needed to be rebuilt, that I would pretty quickly ruin the new rotor and pads. They also said that there was not a rebuild kit yet for a 2nd gen which I guess means just getting a whole new one from mama yama. Any thoughts or suggestions on potential problems that could be causing this and the rebuilding of the caliper idea would be appreciated. OHHHHH, and BTW we greased the splines while we had the wheel off and they were DRY. The last place I got a rear tire changed didn't grease the splines, but for some reason found it necessary to change the rear gear oil.
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Went for a nice ride today. Daughter rode with me, wife on her bike and the neighbors joined us. Had to get on the brakes hard once and noticed the pedal pulsing under my foot so I tried to stay off the rear brake. Got home and removed the rear caliper. The inside pad was down to the metal. 23,000 on these original pads. Is that good, bad, average? So of course this has to occur after all dealers are closed, on a holiday weekend. can't do anything until Tuesday. I hope it rains for the next few days.
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