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Showing results for tags 'lever'.
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Was doing some PM on clutch lever and the pin that goes into the cyl to lever came out of the rubber boot. How in the heck do you get it on the rubber boot again and on to that groove in the middle?
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I have notsed that my clutch lever has been getting less free play "for say." So I was thinking it is time to change the fluid. Did that about 3000 miles ago. Now it started it again. Went to the steeler, thay changed it again. Sed it didn't look good. I told him I just changed it. He didn't know what the problum is. Sed try it and see what hapens. Is this why the the ventures are having clutch slip??? under power pull the clutch intill it starts to slip. Mine startes to do this with very little pull of the clutch lever. Now after new fluid I can squese the lever about 1.5 inches befour it starts to slip. Is this some thing we should be watching for???? Or do I still have some thing wrong????? Thanks For all the help!!!
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Broke my master cylinder clutch... no no not where it would be easy to fix by getting a new lever and installing... The lever broke off WITH part of the master cylinder clutch... aka master cylinder 2 ala BikeBandit and WHEEW is it Expensive... umm so anyone have a spare laying around that doesnt cost almost 300 or know if a welder can fix that piece? Im looked at pinwheel and ebay as well... ALSO if anyone knows what years will fit or if a road star master clutch would work? Thanks all in advance...
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I kept beating myself up because I know I lubed all lever contact points and fresh fluid. Yadda yadda . well what happened is that the lever was Binding up at the fulcrum. the point where there is a screww with a locknut on the bottom. i always over tighten stuff and by doing so with plenty of grease at the hinge the lever worked wonderfully. Well as the grease wore off the tightened hinge was causing more friction. i loosened the locknut and realized that the lever action was also tightening the bolt/Pin. i backed out the screw greased it all up and locktite the locknut. The nut is not squeezing the hinge point and the locknut will nut work itself loose with extra protection. tigtening that screw and nut too much will cause un needed friction and cause your brake lever to feel tight. Simple lesson learned.
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Hello all, I have been looking at an 84 and I am not so sure I am going to do this. I read up before I looked at it and was really impressed at the features. Because the bike has sat for three yrs I was ready for the usual issues. A dead battery that would start and run the bike with a boost was okay. The red flashing 'Warning!' light caught my eye, what is that?! The 'PSI' on the ride control led was showing with no other information, is it working? The idle stabilized after warming up but was high at 1300 rpms, a snap of the throttle reduced rpm's marginaly. I thought a little lube and adjustment might have settled this but after reading the forum? Sounds like I am going waltzing through the intake system, and oh the prices of diaphrams! Is there a weber carb and manifold on the market for these instead? Would 'HAL' (2001 Space Odyessey) the computer mind ? The left side oil leak at the valve cover seems easy enough. What am I looking at for new tires and which ones are the absolute best rated for this bike? And of course at what cost? The 2nd gear modification has been done, but the shift lever was difficult to use with my size 11, I really had to toe reach down for it, is it adjustable? The lever is a bit small and takes too much concentration to shift with. I read the electrical schematic and was impressed at what you have here, but, hey? Its only a motorcycle after all? I dunno...I jst wann go for a putt, not become snarled in issues! We shall see.
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Ever think that gambling is pretty much the same way you train chimps. Pull lever, nothing Pull lever, nothing, Pull lever, 5 peanuts Yipee Pull lever, nothing... Wonder if you can train a pygmie?
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Looking for an earlier grab and firmer grip on take off. I cannot get used to my clutch engageing at neary full release. To completly dis-ingage I only need to pull about 1" on release lever. So I am looking for anything that will make it engage "earlier" and grip sooner. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10518
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OK...so what does the phillips screw (with the nut) do on the brakke lever? Also...how do you adjust it...If I put some clearance (space) between the screw head and the nut...and then turn the screw to tighten...THEY BOTH MOVE. Which means the screw and nut tighten to the same place every time. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Wally
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Dont know how to do a search for this question so will ask instead. Started the royal star up today, pressed the clutch lever there was no tension. Put in gear, it died. Put in neutral and started it again and put in first. The clutch lever did not work. Could not get out of gear to neutral. Had to kill it and roll back and forth to get to neutral. I put in a new clutch kit a few years back, hardly any miles on it. Should I change out the fluid or the engine oil? Any ideas? Jim
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Barrnett SR2 Clutch Upgrade
teza51 posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
After install and before replacing outer cover i tried pulling the clutch lever to see if all was working correctly is it normal at this stage to see nothing moving ie plates moving pressure plates moving. The clutch lever is hard as to squeeze in i reinstalled the original setup and still hard as way harder than before pulling down have i done somthing wrong here.I have not put completly back together yet as i dont want to destroy gasket untill sure. Awaiting a reply Thanks Terry -
I'm a avid tea drinker and am constantly getting the urge to sip my tea going down the road. However since I purchased my Arai Full face Helmet I have found this to be almost impossible. Solution! Go to hunting section in Walmart. Look for 750 ML Sports bottle With lever sip cap BPA free. It's a 25 oz container that has a straw to the bottom and a 1 1/2" lever top that you flip open. Just open and hold upright and you can reach the top under your full face. No need to tilt your head back... Beside the bottles, are 4 Replacement straws for these containers. cut one in half and insert into your Sports bottle lever and it becomes even easier to drink. Note make sure you get the sports bottle with the round hole in the lever. Some of them are oval in shape... Enjoy your favorite beverage! "just as long as it's not carbonated"... Don't ask, cause I'm not tellin... If you need to know, dump 25 0z of carbonated pop in the container and take a drink as your travellin down the road... Good luck:buttkick:
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On my 89 with 45,000 miles on it, the cruise control works great.....if I hold the clutch lever all the way out with my hand. When I bought the bike 2 years ago, I relplaced the bushing, but that didn't help much. There is quite a bit of play between where the clutch cylinder quits pushing the lever outward and the end of travel where the cruise control senses that the clutch is released. It seems to me that maybe I want to replace or stretch the spring that is between the clutch cylinder and the lever bushing?? Anybody have any experience with this problem?? Frank D. -
Started when I switched dash lights out with LEDs. Suspect issue always there, but unseen with incandescent dash bulbs. I noticed every time I shifted up or down, any gear, neutral light would illuminate for just a fraction of a second. I was at first thinking mechanical, (play in shift shaft against neutral switch) as it seemed to happen just as clutch was re-engaging. Then I remembered that there was a clutch lever switch in the neutral cutout starting circuit. After playing with clutch lever some more, I believe the issue is in this electrical circuit. Does not matter if I shift or not, nor how much I may feather the clutch, always lights at same point just before clutch lever at full release (suspect point for lever switch). Also always just a fraction of a second flash, even if I play aroung the spot of the lever switch, I can not get neutral to stay lit for any more than a flash, unless in neutral of course. Not sure what exactly is happening in the circuit, but as I found out with the RLU dash light, the new LED bulbs will illuminate full bright with less than 2volts stray voltage. Not calling it a problem, and not likely worth time to figure out and correct/bypass/mod..etc. Just interesting fluke from using LEDs.
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I just stumbled on this website and knowing that we are an "older" group of riders I thought it may be of some interest to some of the members that may be starting to have an issue pulling or holding the clutch lever. http://www.efmautoclutch.com/ It isn't inexpensive but they build two clutches; one that has NO pull pressure on the lever and one that you don't use the lever at all. And they hold much better than stock. They have a few videos on the site showing how well it works. Just thought it may help keep someone riding a few years longer!
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In a nut shell I had a new clutch put in,rode for a couple months parked for a year (due to med reasons) I am back and no resistance on clutch lever (lever pulls back to easy) and no leaks under or on bike? 99RSV
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Last Friday on my way home from work I dumped the bike at about 30 MPH . I managed to only get a sore rib but my VR has severe scraps on the left front and rear crash bars, mirror and front fairing and snapped off the clutch lever. Not exactly sure what caused the skid but I suspect the pre-treatment VDOT puts down ahead of storms or maybe a spot of sand/salt that escaped my notice. I am definately happy I had on my "armored" jacket/gloves and jeans or the scraps on the bike would be matched by my own scraps. Guess my guardian angel was working overtime that day. Any day you can walk away from a spill is a good day although I prefer days with no spills. Located a clutch lever on EBay so I will back in the saddle as soon as I get the lever.
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After an hour of fiddling with installing a speedbleeder to assist in replacing the fluid in my clutch reservoir, I reinstalled the old bleed valve and reversed bled the clutch lines (thanks Condor). Now, when I sqeeze the clutch lever, I don;t get any "pressure" until the lever is approx 1/4" from the grip. Essentially, the clutch lever travels almost all the way to the grip before I feel any fluid pressure. I took the cover off to have a look...I can see the plunger moving and I can see the fluid "swell" over the small hole. Having read on this forum that some folks have squirted themselves with brake fluid by rapidly activating the clutch lever. I took the appropriate precautions to prevent brake fluid spraying every where...but to my dismay...no spray...just a "swell" in the reservoir. It just doesn;t seem like I have any clutch. I can squeeze the clutch, and put it into first gear, but after releasing the lever about an 1/8 of an inch, the bike begins to move. What have I missed?
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I've read many threads on changing the clutch fluid. So the Bleeder valve has been removed and an oil pan under the VR with it on the center stand. I pulled on the clutch lever slowly a few times to drain most of the fluid. I opened the Reservoir lid. Now I need to get ready to go to work (job). So my thoughts are the fluid will seek its lowest level and therefore in 24 hours most all the old fluid should have been drained. Was wondering if it would be better to have the clutch lever compressed to the handle bar and tied, or does it matter, Just asking, for I do not know if it matters. Yes, I do have a speed valve to install, and I will use new dot 4 brake fluid. My plans are next morning to start pouring new fluid into the reservoir until fresh fluid is seen coming out the drain plug. After that I plan on using Condor's method of reverse fill the fluid from the drain plug up to get all the air bubbles. Oh any suggestions as to how much dot 4 break fluid to purchase, being that once opened that there is an age factor with break fluid. I don't mind having some extras around but not a lot.
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Reference item two (in red) in the attached pic. Currently, on my 08 RSV, the "plunger" is kind of sticky...when I depress the brake lever, I can actually feel a kind of click as the actuator acuates. In fact, I've adjusted the lever as much as possible, but I've bottomed out on the screw/locknut combination, and still have a lot of play. It's almost as if the plunger isn;t retraction all of the way (out away from the master cylinder). A couple of questions: 1) Can these parts (item 2) be cleaned? 2) Is this repair considered a warranty repair? 3) If this isn;t a warranty item, is this easy to replace? Thanks for your inputs!
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The Rear Brake Lever has two white washers. Mine shows several bad looking cracks, as if the piecies would fall apart if I took it apart. I looked them up and it looks like the 2 parts I need are the following: It can be found under Stand Footrest. 1) Part 68 - COLLAR 90387-06701-00 2) Part 70 - WASHER,PLATE 90201-100A1-00 I took the part 69 Nut Crown 90176-10073-00 off thinking part 70 would come off easily, but it did not. My question is, has others replaced theirs, or is it something to not bother with. The brake pedel does works fine. -
I left last week for a 2 week ride but had to cut it short due to an injury. I left Tenn today and drove 8 hours all the way on interstate. I made the turn off the interstate to the road that was four miles away to my home. I went to downshift to slow down at the ramp and couldn't find the shift lever. I looked over the side and it was hanging over on its side. I pulled over and sure enough the bolt had come out and was gone. I was only a few miles from a Yamaha dealership so I was able to hold it on with my boot and shift as needed to this shop where it was easily fixed. Moral of the story. Check this bolt. Something I've never bothered to look at.
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Quick question, I used to ride a BMW RT1200P and was spoiled by the adjustable brake/clutch levers. Im 6'00 and can reach the brake lever on my 04 BUT...does anyone know of a lever that reduces the reach a little bit. I've looked through the threads and only saw new levers mentioned based on appearance (chrome or flat blade). Thanks for any help. Clint:Venture:
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01 RSV clutch upgrade issue. So. I followed the instructions (or so I thought, I guess) replaced the half friction disc with the full one, removed the retaining wire and the spring/washer deeley, put it all back together as instructed (lining up all of the 'notches' in the friction discs, etc). Torqued the outer ring with the 6 bolts to the required 70 in-lb, re-installed gasket and cover and now my clutch lever is so stiff I can't even move it with both hands. Mind you, I tried with one hand and it didn't budge - I didn't squeeze much harder than that because I didn't want to break anything. What the crap. Any suggestions on what to check or what went wrong? I am baffled and a little honked. -
I've read most of the treads on brakes,about all of them hanging up but mine only work about half of what they should. I check out the calpers an not all of the pistons are coming out. The lever is good its mainly the front I have to pull hard to work. Fluid ,pads are ok .Is it my lines or in the calipers -
Does anyone have a spare clutch lever for a 2006 venture? My bike bent her's up when it decided to lay down and go to sleep at a stplight! Thanks, Kenw
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