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Showing results for tags 'idle'.
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How much travel should the choke lever have. Mine seems to very short travel distance. It is enough to get it going whenbwarm outside but now that it is in the 40s outside I am having to hold a little throttle to keep idle up until the engine is a little warmed up. Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk
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I noticed that the rubber hoses that connects the YICS to the engine are quite soft! They really flexes a lot on idle. Is it a good idea to replace then with stiffer new hoses? -
ok so i ahad this situatino last year with bike not warming up well. Warm wweather started and bike runs like a champ. Synched and idled correctly atill had popping on decel. tried the mixture screws with the idle drop procedure and all pilots acted as if they were clean. Now first cold day and 4 miles before she warms up completely. I start her on full chole and high odle for 1 minute then let her low idle for 2 start pulling off on half choke and she starts coughing and spitting and I have to feather the clutch manytimes to keep her from stalling. What is wrong here? -
Where are the pilot screws?
DANGEROUSDANA posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I recently bought a 2000 RSV Millennium. It had Bub slip ons that sound really good, but too loud. I couldn't hear the stereo. So, I purchased a set of stock mufflers on ebay and slipped them on. Now, I have a backfire (sometimes very LOUD) on deceleration, just as the engine reaches idle. I have greatly reduced the frequency of this backfire by raising the idle. However, it still backfires occasionally, and I really don't like the higher idle. (I'm guessing 1200-1300 as opposed to 950 or 1000, hard to tell without a tach.) I'm thinking I could adjust this backfire out. First by getting someone to follow me and see which side the backfire is on and then by adjusting the pilot screws in the carbs on the offending side. I'm just wondering...Can the Pilot screws be reached without removing the tank? Thanks. dana -
Good day. I just got my '86 back on the road after some major carb transplantation. I had 2 carbs with hopelessly seized low speed jets so I got a set of 4 from thirdbike and frankensteined a set out of the 8. The floats were perfect and as it turns out, the needles he sent were different than mine...with a longer and shallower taper. They were also set to their max rich setting. I put on some new diaphragms on the best of the slides, left it at max rich and bolted it back together. Holy crap...what a bunch of nasty noises when I started it up...I did a balance, set the low speed jets by ear and now it's running better ever. With the needles set rich, I don't have the bogging with the filter out anymore since more gas needs more air. Some previous owner had drilled some holes in the air box lid and then covered them up with tape...I took off the tape and no bogging. I was planning on trying this experiment for some time and this was a good opportunity. The bike has more power than before, smooth from idle to redline, no dead spots, no more popping at idle, leaner at idle, (less raw gas stank), and I don't even need the choke anymore when it's cold. Basically it goes like a scalded rabbit. I could probably lean it out for a bit but instead, I'm going to try supply even more air and put that extra gas to good use. I'm getting about 32 mpg, (us gallons), but it runs so damned good that I think I'd rather eat the couple of extra bucks than chance screwing with the goodness of the engine. I added a couple of huge wind deflectors to the fairing so that will have dropped the mileage a bit. Someday I maybe even change the plugs. So if your bike is running somewhat rich, maybe try giving the engine more air as a first resort...it working great for me.
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I recently had a Baron's Tach installed on my 08 RSV. Prior to installing, I set the Cold ERPM at 750 (by ear (old Submarine Sornaman Training)), after choking when starting. Once Warm (after riding 2 blocks), the warm Idle ERPM increased to around 950-1000. After installing Tach, I increased the Cold Idle ERPM to 1000. Once Warm (after riding 2 blocks), the warm Idle ERPM increases to around 1150. Is 1000 ERPM considered an optimal range? Was 750 ERPM too low?
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1st ...I have had my 87 Royale for 20+ years. And done many Mods and work. I have 30 years as an electronic tech. But I have been having this HOT idle skip. EX: been riding on a hot day. Get off the hiway to my house. Pull up the driveway. Open the garage and the idle starts missing. I can see the tach dipping..I hear the spark plug caps arcing and can see it on the right side caps(3,4) sparks to the head. AH, I replace the caps and wires to ALL coils. Stiill no help when hot. AND if I rev the bike the issue goes away for a 30 seconds then returns. I ohm out the pick up coils. All good. Primary side of the ignition coils.. test good even when HOT...OUCH. I replaced intake o-rings AND We can rule out the carbs because I had the bike EGA'd ...it's not rich... running 13.5:1 a/f @ 1000rpm. CHanged to non-resistor spark plugs vs. resistor type...no difference. Since the bike can idle smooth on first start of the day w/o choke...Thus , I think a hotter range plug will not fix this. As a cold engine is more difficult to ignite fuel. Also, I do not see a "rev limiter" wire in the schematics. Typically from the tach to ignitor. As this has been a documented problem on my Yamaha Vision. Again, if I increase revs it's good for as hort few seconds. I am thinking it the ignitor getting heat soaked OR secondary side of the 2 right coils are bad...BUT then again, reving it shiould not temp. make it run good. Any experience out there with an issue like this???
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So My problem was noticed last winter. The bike would take forever to warm up which made my short ride to work unpleasant. I just read an article on shadow wherethe same problem existed. Long warm ups. Choking when goosingthe throttle and poor off idle preformance. Before getting into changing jets the article spoke of raising the idle needles by adding shims.Also turning the pilots out 1/2 to a full turn to enrichen idle. I dont mind trying out a few options but I was hoping someone had info tested and tried options so I didnt have to be the test dummy. The bike has khrome werks turn out exhaust which is louder but the carbs jets seem to be sock from previous owner. I get slight popping on decel and power is great. Only idle preformance is bugging me.
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I am looking at re-jetting my 2008 Tour Deluxe. I'm interested in any info and experience anyone might have with this. What size main jets and needles to get and so-on. I have already put new idle jets in, which was a beautiful thing. I'm just looking to get a little more performance out of the bike, which is why I'm considering re-jetting it.
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Okay ... I cracked. Having used a home made manometer for some time, generally with a decent amount os success, I cracked and bought a Motion Pro Sync Tool. It wasn't my first choice, but it was available and reasonably priced. I wanted a Morgans Carbtune, but I didn't want the wait. Set up of the tool was a breeze with clear instructions, and calibrating it was equally easy. I went to this trouble because I have had some difficulty getting the bike to idle correctly after a fast run. On the driveway it is fine, but when it's very hot the revs do not want to fall below 3000rpm, 2500 after I tweaked the Idle Mixture a little. There are no vacuum leaks and the carbs are clean. Even with my manometer I was suspicious that the carbs were out of sync. It only takes one of the four to cause a high idle. So ... Tool calibrated, engine hot and tubes fitted to inlet tracts ... Whoah! One carb had vacuum so high it was almost sucking the fluid out of the top of the clear tube. A quick adjusment brought that into line. The right bank only needed a slight tweak and the two banks together weren't too bad, but got the tweak they needed. After a final adjustment of the idle speed, all seemed much smoother. I will run it later and see if the problem has gone, or at least improved, but I have to say that the whole process took less than 10 minutes once the motor was warm, and I would happily recommend the Motion Pro tool. It does seem to work decently well.
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Hello everyone, I am the proud new owner of a 1983 Yamaha Venture Royale. I bought this bike from a co-worker that had ridden it up until about 10 months ago. It has since been sitting in his garage unused. He says that it was running kind of poor, so he did some 'fiddling around' with the carburetors, and then it wouldn't run at all. That's of course when he stopped riding it. It was no surprise that it would not run for me when I got it home. I decided to give the carburetors an overhaul. I completely dismantled them, soaked them in carb cleaning solution, blew out all the passageways, and replaced all gaskets, o-rings and damaged diaphrams. After re-assembly, I balanced them by sight on the workbench and got them back on the bike. I was relieved when the bike started, but after warming up, repeated attempts to take out the choke fail. It will run just fine with the choke on full up to 2500RPM or so. I read that these bikes don't like to run without the airbox, so I installed that and encounter the same problem. I have tried backing off the choke while very gradually increasing the idle via the idle adjuster, no luck. Any hint of throttle and this thing dies immediately. I know about the seafoam fix, but I would assume that since I thoroughly cleaned the carbs, I shouldn't need to use the stuff. Even if I missed a couple of the passageways I would expect it to run better than this. The only thing that I skimped on were the two rubber plugs at the bottom of each jet block. They were mostly hard, and probably not providing good seals. I couldn't find replacements for these, so I left them as-is. I haven't the slightest idea of why these are there in the first place. Could these be causing my problem? Any other ideas? I am by no means a mechanic, so I could be missing something obvious. Thanks for any help you can provide. -Dave -
On a road trip. Smell raw fuel more at idle. Bike runs well, I think, at highway speed. Idle is not right. gas milage down to maybe 30. I did about 400.miles yestetday. This AM before start up, I removed left side cover. I discovered fuel droplets on the screw just below what I would call the throttle shaft spring. I took a picture but I tried to upload and I was unable to upload the picture. I am typing with a touch screen smart phone please excuse any typos Any thoughts on what I am dealing with, stuck or misadjusted float ? Appreciate the help. Point of reference . There is a screw above the on where fuel is a accumulating and one below. The screw above is much larger. -
Thirdbike got me a set of carbs. I also learned that these are WAY harder to put on than take off. Two hours of disagreeing with them I had them on. A half hour later she was running. Just let it idle for about 2 minutes but that was all I needed. This sit and everyone here are great. Thank you all. Shaun
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hey guys 1st question,whats the correct idle rpm for an 84 xvz1200 ? and then where do u adjust the idle? i couldnt find ethier in that online manual,any help is appreciated thnx troy -
I have a 1983 venture it will idle on 3&4 only is this right or does it need to idle on all 4 cyl if not right anyone know what i need to do
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Hey, guys I just bought an 07 venture with 3,200 miles and i'm getting some poping on idle and on decel any advice ? -
Ok, guys/gals. Looking to purchase a set of slip on's sometime this spring, so my question is what are your preferences, bubs slip ons, la choppers, khrome werks or the baron's slash cuts? Already have tried the stock HD slip ons and don't really like the sound they produce, to hollow sounding. Would like a low rumble at idle and also while cruising, not loud and annoying. Was going to put the bike up for sale, but with gas prices climbing and the bikes paid for might as well keep it. Any recommendations would be helpfull as I don't want to spend alot of money and be disappointed. Thanks...
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Carb sync question? Now before yesterday I haven't done it, and found it to be really easy with the carbtune First experience with that too, great product. Now for the question of the day. Not having a tach, but a 9/8's deaf ear,,, I set the idle with the idle set on the right side to what I thought was or felt like 1000R's +- of course. Preceded with the sync, which went well. During one of the rev-up blips I noticed that the tubes would rise to the top, and stop at about 3/4, then fall back to where they were. So just for the heck of it I held what I thought was between 2500 & 300 and looked at the carbtune. It was rock steady, and indicated that #3 & #4 were a bit higher than the left side ??? ( I was having a little trouble getting them together ) So I run the set up to about that level of RPM's. Then adjusted the right side, and resync'd the four to flat. Took about 1 min for that. Dropped it back down to 1000+- and did the Blip, several times, and they were flat and even. Any thought here on that. It ran well for the test ride, but it was seemingly running well before the sync, and after I got all 4 hitting again.
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I have an 89 Venture. I replaced the battery about 1 1/2 years ago. I have a Decka. Bike has been sitting in storage for about 1 1/2 months. Went to start it today battery was dead. Jumped it with car and it would run but when I took off the cables it died. restarted and let it run till it warmed up. removed cables and it would idle. When try to get the rpms up it started to sputter and tack would go all over the place and gauge would go towars the bottom. When let it idle every thing was fine. Is it because the battery is drained so much or is there other problems. This has never happened before. Bike has 100,000 miles on it. I plan on putting battery on charger in the morning and leaving it there till the afternoon. Thanks in advance
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Well with a little guidance from Art I managed to sync my carbs today. Here's my results. 1) No more popping at idle or at deceleration. 2) Less gas fumes at idle. 3) Much, Much smoother accelerating and at highway speed. Before it had a vibration through the bars and the seat. I can't say it's any quicker, maybe just alittle. All and all the carb gauges are right up there as one of the best tools I've ever brought and I was amazed how easy it was once I learned how to use the gauges.
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I've got a set of vacume gauges ordered to sync the carbs on my RSV. All the help threats say to set the idle at 1000rpm. How is this done without a tach?
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I swear I have searched throught here and not found how to adjust my idle. How do I adjust my 2006 RSV idle? Thanks.
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Hello! I just purchased a 1983 Venture and when I rode it home the idle stuck at about 2500. The bike starts and runs fine, but the idle will not slow down. Any suggestions?
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i know i need a steering head barron,had it tighten up took care of some of the prob.just hooked up my stelel horn and took it to gas up for the ride tomorrow (cops for kids) and in first gear at very low speed .almost at idle there is a vibration you can feel but when you speed up it goes away. will this thing be safe for ride tomorrow cause its for a realy good cause.
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Good write here makes it nice and easy. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=258 They were out a bit. I wonder if I'll be able to tell the difference? How does one know the rpm at idle?
