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Showing results for tags 'grease'.
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Ok I'll try not to get to long winded with this. Just bought a new HF trailer and have read several of the post on here about what you should do before using . 1- repack bearings ( is that by hand or do you fill hub with grease through grease sert?). 2- use 4 3/8 washers on tounge coupler . 3- make sure tounge is straight so trailer pulls and tracks atraight. Things not sure about ? 1 - what tire pressure is everyone running in tires. 2- did everyone leave both leaf springs in on both sides or did anyone just use 1 leaf spring. 3 - did anyone put a cooler rack on the front and if you did , did you make the tounge longer or use the 1 that came with it . The reason I bought trailer was because someone hit me last year in Albeq New Mexico and the frame to my whiskey barrell trailer was totaled and didn't have time to fix before we leave for Tenn in 6 weeks . ( should have listened to better half and not waited untill last min to fix it ). If I have forgot anything please someone remind me .
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Thought I would post a quick report and a question. I have read that the grease will turn to liquid. What happens to the liquid? Should it remain in the hub or should I see some of it on the rim? Pulled it total about 900 miles to STAR Days in Chattanooga TN and back. When I got to the camp site, I noticed grease on the backside of one of the rims. We took off the wheel and the seal was still flush w/ the hub so we didn't put too much grease in it and the seal did not get pushed out due to overfilling the hub. We did take the seal out and it looks like it was not round all the way around. One part on the inside diameter was pushed out a bit so this might have been the cause. I couldn't find a replacement while I was there so we just regreased the bearings and put everything back. It was funny as it seemed like that side was ok when I got home but noticed grease on the inside of the other wheel (not much and not nearly as much as the 1st wheel). So it basically flipped situations on me. As we stopped I did touch the hubs and on they way down one side was hotter than the other (don't remember which side at this point). On the way back home both sides seemed to stay cool to the touch. Someone must have been looking out for me too as when I got home I was taking the trailer off the bike and the ball hitch nut was close to having come off all the way. Even though I crossed the chains, I am sure that had the nut come off and the trailer come off the bike, it would have headed straight for my rear tire. Overall the trailer pulled pretty well. There was only once on the way home where it started to sway, but we were in some heavy winds too. I got a tramp stamp for the bike (should show in my sig pic). The guy who did it was telling me a story about a friend of his that made a redneck sway bar. He took 4 rubber straps. Attach 2 to each side where the chains are attached to the bike. On the trailer side attach the rubber straps to the outer most holes (2 to each side) using those C hooks where one part shows threads and the other side shows a nut. This way when you turn, on one side the rubber straps will create slack. The hooks will prevent the rubber straps from coming undone from the trailer.
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Neighbor came over tonight to take the bearings out of the Harbour Freight trailer wheels. He has done it before. I haven't done it at all so wanted someone to walk me through it. Got a couple questions that hopefully someone will be able to answer before we repack the bearings tomorrow. 1) Do the rubber seals (looks like a rubber ring really) need to be replaced. They look to be in really good condition. I know the previous owner of the trailer barely used it. 2) With the bearings in, there is a cavity in between them. Looks like the grease fitting is just for that cavity. Does that entire cavity need to be filled w/ grease? It certainly wasn't when we pulled the bearings out. Thanks
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Hello. I am putting on my new set of Dunlop E3's. Have the rear wheel off and want to grease everything Im supposed to BUT Im wondering if I can use either of these two products I already have? I also discovered I need brake pads so Im done for the night. I hope my local dealer stock them? http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9EMyKcng_yA/TDZi98dgwrI/AAAAAAAADt0/-8EgarEAQp8/s640/IMG00131.jpghttp://lh6.ggpht.com/_9EMyKcng_yA/TDZi-PunMfI/AAAAAAAADt4/ImK2wgef3P8/s640/IMG00132.jpg -
I want to grease the spline of the drive shaft and the Service manual recommends Lithium soap base grease. I am not sure what to buy. I have looked at a number of greases and many mention lithium as a componenet but nowhere does it mention "Lithium Soap Base" . I have bought Lucas Red and Tacky no.2. The information on the tube mentions that it is a technical blend of lithium and polymer plus a heavy addition of antiwhear /anti -seize agents. Good temperature stability, resistance to Acid and Alkali, good resistence to rust and excellent water resistance. It is a readish color. Is that OK to use? What are the alternative that would also do the job that I can buy in Canada? Is White LIthium Grease (either in tube or spray cans) OK? I need your expert advice on what product to use. Thanks Jean-Claude
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I removed my front wheel to take it in for a new tire. When I put it back together do I need to put any grease on the axle?
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Anyone have a lead on the hf grease seal for their trailers? HF stocks bearing but not seals. Took my off to repack the bearings. Several auto parts stores and a trailer shop didn't have one that works. Got the closest fit and it's spitting grease. Thanks
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This is an update to my previous front bearing question. Here is the general info on the bearings:file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/user/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-2.png http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=yamaha+venture+front+bearings&_sacat=10063&_dmpt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=&_osacat=10063&bkBtn=&_trksid=p4506.m270.l1313http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=yamaha+venture+front+bearings&_sacat=10063&_dmpt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=&_osacat=10063&bkBtn=&_trksid=p4506.m270.l1313 All the bearings and seal required to refit a wheel in one convenient package. -Premium high-speed bearings feature low drag, double lip seals on both sides to provide superior exclusion of water and dirt and improved grease retention. -High performance Chevron SRI-II grease features special rust inhibitors for the most demanding applications. -Type TC, Nitrile Elastomer wheel seals are specifically designed to keep out water and dirt. The rubber coated outside diameter creates an optimum seal at the hub. -Made by All Balls. Hope this clarifies my question. The blue seal can be removed and reset. cimack77
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Well - the 2nd gen radio went out again. Seems to happen every year now. Getting kinda expensive to listen to the tunes and talk to the truckers. Will split it open, exercise the plugs,and grease up the connections to see if that helps. If not, back to Ebay. Anybody have this type of failure - this often?
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Just thought some of you might like to know how things are in Venture land UK. Well the weather the last few days has been fine and sunny with not a cloud in the sky, nor any planes or con trails for that matter! It’s surprising just how many we usually see here in the south-east of Kent (Gatwick and Heathrow traffic mainly). Rather odd then that you only notice they are not there when you think about it. The high altitude volcanic ash cloud that has covered almost all of our area shows itself by spectacular sunsets and all the muck on your car. If you do not wash the ash off every day it transforms into very fine clay eventually becoming like axle grease to get off! You can also sometimes taste it as acrid along with a sore throat. The RSV is tucked away safe until this thing blows over, I don’t fancy getting this stuff in my carbs. Amazing how a little old volcano can paralyse a country like this. Cheers all PS the above was a bit late getting on to this site. Since then the ash has gone, for the moment......!
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I read on here about greasing the four bolts in the rear shock swing arm bushings. If I pull these bolts out one at a time and grease, does everything stay in alignment for reassembling? This would be doing it while on side stand.
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Bought the bike used with 3000 km, it now has 36,000 kms and when I changed the rear gear oil I noticed the plug has a nipple on the end, and the nipple on my plug was coated in either grease (I hope) or gunk build up (hope not). Could it be grease? sure felt like it... Greasy fingers crossed!
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Seems like when ever we slow down to take a turn or come into a town Mary's headset starts cutting out from one side to the other. That's how she explained it to me. It just about drives her nuts. Once we speed up again it's OK. Only thing I can think of is to grease up the connections. I guess we could swap head sets to see if the problem follows. Anybody got a better idea?
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I was looking through the AMSOIL brochure and found Amsoil Spray Grease. See the link for specific details of this grease. http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/glcspray.aspx Anyway a though occured to me and I am wondering what you think about this idea. Would this or similair grease, but a spray type grease being sprayed into the access port on top of the engine side drive shaft knuckle/driveshaft gear be sufficient lubrication? Even if you would do it a couple times/year. I have never looked into this port yet but all of the posts say you can feel the knuckle that accepts the shaft end so spraying this grease, maybe with tube on the end of the spray can to direct the grease better should get it on the gearing. Granted this is no substitute for a complete lube job tear down but maybe in between lubing when the tire doesn't need to be taken off, could it be effective? Or is this grease simply not suitable for this type of application? What do you all think???
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It is that time of year to think about lubing the speedometer on the 1st gen. It is usually worse when the weather is cool and probably when the bike has sat for awhile. Even though you don't need the type fitting in the attached thread, it does work good. Other wise, you will need to take the speedometer out of the dash and put grease down inside of where the bearing is that the cable goes into. Putting grease up into the square hole where the end of the speedometer does not work because the hole does not go all the way through. Anyway check out this thread. RandyA http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36254&highlight=speedometer+squeal -
grease zerts for the swingarm etc?
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
i just know i saw a how to written up by some awesome person on here about adding grease zerts to various locations on the first gen bikes... but i can't for the life of me find it. does anyone have a link saved to it? I searched for grease, grease inserts swingarm grease. I am probably just blind, so would someone please give me a nudge in the right direction? thanks in advance! Jared:banana: -
Hot diggity dog . My new to me cdi box came in the mail today. Thanks to all who gave me the headsup on the one. It seems to be working just fine. Now to go get some dialectric grease and get it in permanent. Its already been moved to the airbow so now I need some velcrow to keep it still. David
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My kickstand irritates me. It is quite stiff requiring an extra "kick" to get it to fully extend down. I grease it to no avail. I tried to remove it today but you have to remove the shift linkage to get the darn bolt out. I cleaned everything as best I could a reapplied grease. No real change. It works real fast and smooth if I've been riding in the rain. It snaps down with nary a thought. I did notice a fair amount of up and down play. Does anybody else's act the same way?
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While out for a ride yesterday, I thought I heard a rhythmic squeak at low speed once in a while. I was 50 miles from home so I decided to run it home. Everything seemed fine at highway speeds, so I wasn't overly concerned. I thought it was the splines in the drive hub dry so I ran it in the shop to grease it. As I was removing the wheel I found it strange that the castle nut on the axle was barely finger tight. When I pulled the axle out I was very surprised as it was only 7 inches long with a nicely rounded end. The other end was still sticking out of the hub! I had to remove the final drive from the swing arm to get the wheel off the bike. Apparently the bearing was jamming at times and started rotating the end of the axle shaft. When I drove the axle out the inner race is still stuck on the shaft. Darn good thing the pinch bolt on the right side was tight so that end of the axle could not fall out. I don't even want to think of the concequences of something like that happening at highway speed. Now it looks like I'm going to have a fun time getting the outer race removed from the wheel. The right hand bearing came out reasonably easy. I just bought an axle from Pinwall Cycle and will have to order the bearings and seals from Yamaha Monday. By the way the splines have plenty of grease on them.
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Today when changing the tire on my 04 venture I decided to lube the shaft, when I pulled the tire off, to change it there was very little grease on the splines. when I pulled the rear end, the engine end of the drive shaft had very little grease on it. So I tried to pull the shaft from the pumpkin but could not, so I took a pair of vise grip pliers and grabbed the shaft then tapped the vise grips with a rubber hammer, shaft popped right out, but the seal tore on one side. I glued it with epoxy, greased the splines( which were dry) and went to put it back together. the rear end was lying on the bench with the splined area turned down, and oil came out. It was dry of oil when I first took it apart. Is this normal. Gregg
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Last night I decided to drop the rear wheel on my NEW 07 (146 miles on her) and check the clutch pins, clutch hub drive splines and drive shaft splines for the amount of grease on them. As you can see by the attached pictures the amount of or should I say the (LACK OF GREASE) on them was ridicules. The pictures of the drive shaft are bit blurry to see but I’ll tell you that the amount of grease on all these parts from the factory would not amount to much more then a tablespoon full. If you have not checked these parts for adequate grease I would highly recommend that you do. It may just save you a lot of aggravation down the road. I'm very glade that I decided to do it, now I can ride without worry. The pictures prove that you can’t trust Yamaha to do it. The repair cost of all the Ventures due to the lack of grease on these bikes from the factory must be costing Mama Yama a bundle in warranty work. You would think that the powers that be at Yamaha would have addressed this by now. If you look at the picture of the drive shaft you will see the seal (red arrow) that bonded itself in the final drive assembly on my 03 due to what I believe was a lack of grease. If you remember I had a lot of trouble removing the drive shaft from the final drive. After asking on this forum why it would not come free as it was supposed to I figured out that it was this seal, which has a metal ring imbedded in the rubber bonded to the inside of the final drive (due to friction) and prevented the drive shaft from coming out. I had to pry this seal out in order to remove the drive shaft. So if you take yours apart and the drive shaft want’s to stay in the final drive assemble this may be your problem.
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I know Moly-60 is THE lube to use but I ran across this on some bike guys website. "An alternative to moly is the new poly-flourinated lubricants made by DuPont called Krytox Teflon Bearing Grease. These chemicals are simply magic. They have almost no known solvents, are chemically inert, and don't burn at any temperature, even in a pure oxygen atmosphere. This is pretty clearly the only grease to use. See this article. Nascar mechanics have found that Krytox grease can reduce the temperature of spline joints on drive shafts by 150°. Also, this stuff lasts forever. It is, unfortunately, quite expensive." How expensive? The Moly60 is roughly $10 for 8 oz from your Honda or Acura car dealer. That same 8 oz of Krytox is... $147.54!! Or 2 oz for $44.55. :shock3: I'm happy with the Moly60.
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I am going to remove my rear tire this weekend. Anything special I need to know on this? Any spring or other stuff will jump out at me and I won't know where it goes after it has jumped Once the tire is off, anything I should do? I think I have read somewhere to grease the spline and I saw different post on this that only confused me . How do I go about doing that? Any good "How To"? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Cheers
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Anybody ever try putting a grease-zerk on the speedometers of our 83-85 ventures? I was able to put a small one on the other day. I used a 1/4" bit in the drill-press and went very slowly as to not drill into the shaft. I used a dremel to finish it off. If your careful, you won't mar the shaft. I tapped it and was able to screw the zerk in fine. When I pumped grease into the speedo it came out both ends of the shaft. I worked quite well. But after the speedo/tach assembly was all back together and reinstalled in the bike, the zerk is at a wierd angle that migh make id tough to get the greese gun onto it. Considering how often I might need to grease it, I don't think it will be to much of a problem.
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First of all, I'm not much of mechanic but have been studying everyone's experience and decided to get give it a shot. Today I pulled the differential on my 2000 RSV after I removed the wheels to install my new Avons. That went pretty well using my new Carbon One adaptor and everyone's advice. But then, had a horrible time getting the drive shaft out of the differential. Ended up destroying the seal to get it off. Now, am struggling to get the rest of the seal off the shaft - have it soaking in some carb cleaner right now. Also, it appeared that the output end of the drive shaft (part that goes inside the pumkin after the seal) is lubed by rear end grease. Couple questions: Is there a better way to get that seal off the drive shaft? Why do you grease the output end of the drive shaft if it is bathed in differential grease? What do you have to leave on the rear wheel for the shop to install the new tire and balance? I have removed the disk brake rotors on all the wheels to protect them. (Found that a shot of WD40 on all the bolts as well as a slight tap with the ball peen hammer on the head of the bolt allowed them to be extracted pretty easy.) I have purchased some Honda Moly60 to grease everything when reassembling. Thanks in advance, Jinksy
