Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'cylinder'.
-
Ok, this is where I am. I have rebuilt all 3 brake calipers and the rear master cylinder. After plenty of bleeding, both the bike and me, I finally got the blasted thing to hold pressure. Went for a quick test run and everything was going fine and then the darn brakes locked and would not let go. I pulled out the ol` wrench and bleed of the rear and wamo`, I was off again. Did a few laps around the pond and then they where dragging again. This time I bleed of the left front, and then I was off again. OK, I check the rear master cylinder, made sure the little hole was clear, and tried it again. After several goes, sure enough they started dragging again….. So what do I do now? You guys have been a wealth of info and anymore would be great!!!!! Oh Yea, if it helps I have a 1985 VR. and the right brake (front) is working just fine. -
I had my carbs done this summer, with diaphragms, new plugs, etc. Throttle cable broke & just fixed. My tech told today my scoot is only running on 3 cylinders.....LF exhaust pipe stays cold. He says it can't be electrical & is carb, PERIOD. Engine sounds & performs great, but has always run ~32 mpg. Tech insists dead cylinder is carb problem [now covered under warranty]. LF cylinder not firing, but can't be electrical????? [per tech] Sounds goofy to me, but he sure has no reason to tell me wrong, since he has bike & I want it fixed. Also, how could I put 15k miles on bike & NOT detect dead cylinder ? Had carbs, plugs, diaphragms [had big holes], etc., redone & runs the same?? Bike has always started super easy & ran sooo smooth with endless power, always 2 up & loaded? It has even sounded 100% for 1.5 years. Bike is at the shop now. What could be the problem if not electrical? How is it neither tech can figure why cylinder doesn't fire??? I'm not going to bring bike home until one of the shops fixes it. Once I pay & leave, they won't know me or my scoot. Techs from each shop are going to talk to each other today...how can they NOT know??? This is way too weird. I need some info.
-
Does the 2nd Gen front master cylinder have a bigger bore then the 1st Gen and does it have wires for brake fluid level like the 1 st Gen? -
This new product is hydraulic brake control valve. This little valve replaces your existing banjo bolt. You can use this part in the master cylinder or caliper. If you have 2 calipers in the front, but it it the master cylinder to run both calipers. The reason for that is, we are relieving the initial grab in the brake system, or a pressure spike. There are four different levels of this part depending how you like to ride or how you like the feel of the breaks. This part also gets your shocks involved. The shocks absorb majority of the wieght instead of the ground or tire. This part also saves 3 times the wear and tear on your pads. The easiest way to discribe how it feels is, like the brakes in a car without the ABS reaction. The hard you apply the faster you slow down. The TCB valve will not completely prevent lock up. The lock up is later in the braking prosses.Just lock up happens when you want it to. Please ask as many questions you might have. Again thanks for the support. Regards Zach
-
Took scoot to shop #2 to replace throttle cables & done today, but tech says LF Cylinder is not firing [?] He is also sure there is no electrical problem. He has no reason to tell me wrong, since he has bike in shop. I had carbs,diaphragms, plugs, sync, etc., done this summer at shop #1. They didn't notice LF cylinder is cold ?? Tech #2 says it can only be carb issue. Bike has always ran 100%, easy start, great power, instant start, etc. The only constant here is poor 32 MPG over the past 1.5 years. Techs will talk to each other today & bike stays at one shop or the other until fixed....or neither will 'remember' me or bike again. This makes zero sense to me. How can a dead cylinder NOT be diagnosed? I haven't spoke with Tech #1, who synced carbs, yet [he's out], but cylinders all had to be firing. So, What could this problem possibly be ??
-
Finally got everything connected to the engine and it started right up. That was testerday. ran fine. Today, it will start but only with full choke and only one cylinder firing. the tach works. the cylinder that runs is the right front. Any ideas???
-
Where can one get the parts to rebuild the front master cylinder? Has anyone does this? Just exactly how much of a pain in the ass is it?
-
After a great weekend with putting at least 500 miles on the bike and it running great, I dropped a cylinder at lower RPM's today. As I was slowing down to pull into City Hall to pay speeding ticket I got in my wife's Maxima, there was a loud "pop" and a cylinder went dead. It did not sound like an exhaust pop. After I came out and was riding home, I had a definite miss up to about 2,500 RPM's and then it seems like all four are pulling good. After getting off work tonight, I went out in the garage and started the bike and let it run for about 30 seconds at a little above idle. I then cut it off and felt of each exhaust. The right rear was still cold. I put another spark plug on the wire and restarted the bike. It had very good fire. I then pulled the diaphragm and it looked good. I kind of sounds like the pilot jet may be clogged on that carb, but I don't know where the pop came from unless it was thru one of the carbs. I am going to take a look at that plug and may pull the carbs to look at that one. I am open for suggestions if anyone has any. Thanks, RandyA
-
Just in case anybody is looking for a D.I.Y. 4 cylinder carburetor synchronizer, I made one the other day and it worked great. I filled it with some trans fluid and it was VERY sensitive and worked great. I put some pics of it in my gallery. The pics might be enough to tell ya how I did it. But if you have any questions, I can give ya all the details.
-
Well i got the paint almost finished up and it was lookin fair. Got down to clear coeting (second coat) the last part and i knocked off my front fender into the grass, (no paint booth) turned around to see what happened and knocked off the headlight ring and the false tank cover..............I'll stop right there. the rest of the story is'nt good for mixed company. I'll have to fix the clear coat later, now i have a new problem...... Got all the parts back on and it looks better even though it is ****** up. So i started checkin to see why it wasnt idling right and i found that the #2 cylinder carb boot is busted. now i gotta have one. Anybody have a spare? It is the left front cylinder. looks like oil has dripped out of the filter housing and onto the rubber boot. i'm pretty sure this is what caused it th bust open.,:sick:, !!!
-
Got a question. My bike is missing on one cylinder. Changed out the coil and the wire and of course the plug, but still have the problem. Is the ignition controlled by the computor or is there something else to check?
-
I'm just gonna make my own synchro tool. http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp Since I'm only gonna have two hose openings, how would I sync the left bank to the right bank? I'm assuming I can just hook one up to, say, #2 cylinder and the other to #3 just so long as I put the plugs back on #1 & #4. Am I thinking correctly?
-
Your Carbtune may need to be cleaned from time to time. The reason is there is small gap in the case that will let dirt and dust in. Looking at the first pic and you can see the gap. How to clean it. First lets understand that it is IMPORTANT that you work on a flat surface and that you keep each rod and spring in its current cylinder. DO NOT MIX THEM UP. Do only 1 at a time. First you will need a small philips head screwdriver. 1. Remove the 2 screws on the bottom of the unit. 2. Carefully remove the cover 3. Carefully remove the foam filler. 4. Slide the cover down and off(says Carbtune on it). 5. Now remove one rod and spring at a time. Clean the rod with a lint free cloth and blow the cylinder out with air pressure. Now put it all back together and the rods should be moving freely again.
-
Your Carbtune may need to be cleaned from time to time. The reason is there is small gap in the case that will let dirt and dust in. Looking at the first pic and you can see the gap. How to clean it. First lets understand that it is IMPORTANT that you work on a flat surface and that you keep each rod and spring in its current cylinder. DO NOT MIX THEM UP. Do only 1 at a time. First you will need a small philips head screwdriver. 1. Remove the 2 screws on the bottom of the unit. 2. Carefully remove the cover 3. Carefully remove the foam filler. 4. Slide the cover down and off(says Carbtune on it). 5. Now remove one rod and spring at a time. Clean the rod with a lint free cloth and blow the cylinder out with air pressure. Now put it all back together and the rods should be moving freely again.
-
Grabbed some 320 grit Wet/dry sand paper and took it to the cylinder head covers. Came out pretty good and didn't cost anything since I already had the sandpaper. Just sanded the edges till they shined.
-
Folks, I’m finished with this project and I am happy to report that installing a proportioning valve in-line to the output side of the master cylinder, has exceeded my expectations. Attached is my analysis of this project. Rick
.thumb.JPG.a7ecab44ca5a487b6c43626aaa290fcc.JPG)
