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Showing results for tags 'final'.
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I bought a 2000 RSV last year. Currently have 35,000. Little overwhelmed from going through the maint book on what I am "supposed" to do. Planning on changing oil, filer, final gear oil, spark plugs, brake pads and I need a near tire so I will lube up the spline also and fuel filter. Carb tune was done last year (thanks Squidley) but I guess that should be done again if I have the valves adjusted which I am assuming hasn't ever happened. Based on records, brake pads, brake fluid, coolant and final drive oil was changed at 15,000. Quite overwhelmed with the other things the book tells me to do where I am completely clueless including the following. Engine Oil Pressure Test Repacking Swing are bearings Repack wheel bearings Valve clearance Fork oil change replace brake hoses brake fluid and cluth fluid (just confused on this one. If it ain't broke why do I fix it?) Most important thing to me is safety. The next most important is reliability and the last thing is the bikes longevity. What really needs to be done and what doesn't on a 10 year old 35,000 RSV? Thanks, Bob -
I ride a 2008 RSTD with a Hannigan side car. I had the final drive swapped out (RMSportmax using VMAX gearing), and a Kumho rear tire installed last week. Went for my first ride Saturday. The bike rides great, but I'm now hearing a noise from the rear of the bike. It sounds like a tire noise but I'm not sure.....I want to make sure it's not the final drive. Question for those that have Kumho rear tires installed, do they sound different than standard tires? Secondly, for those that have swapped out final drives, anybody had a similar issue? Thanks, OscarV
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BEAR AND I HAD GOOD RIDE YESTERDAY TO GET THE FINAL FEW POINTS FOR THE "SEE THE USA WITH THE AVA TOUR" http://www.photoshow.com/watch/jP2Xg4MU pHILL
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Can't seem to find how to for replacing the final drive oil. Thanks.
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I think I blew out my final drive on my 99rsv.We were out for the weekend,riding around the fingerlakes when after about 150 miles and several hour we made a pit stop.While rolling through the parking lot at slow speed I heard a god awful grinding, clanking,clicking noise coming from the final drive.Luckly since we were riding around the lakes we were only 25 mile from home.So we ended our weekend trip and headed straight home. got home ok,can't hear the noise at highway speed,but if sounds like it's coming apart when i roll the bike back and forth.Put it up on the jack,spun the rear wheel and it sounds really bad. Draned the oil, it was dark gray and smelled burnt.It was just changed out a couple weeks ago,I used mobil 1 gear oil. something has let go inside.But she still got us home.Anyway I'm looking for a new to me final drive,anyone do a trike kit that wants to sell there's.I contacted someone here on the classifieds but no answer yet.Probably out riding
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As promised here are some pics of the polished front fork deflectors that my friend came up with. They are made of 6061 T-6 0.125 aircraft grade structural aluminum and are highly polished. Yes, they are also one piece....no seperate bracket needed. I have had a mock up set on my RSV for over a month with no bracket issues. The ones in the pictures are representative of the finished product with two exceptions. The final production pieces will have a slightly larger mounting base with elongated holes so the whole deflector can be slid side to side for a better fit and the polishing will be much better. This was a quick polish job so they could be displayed on the bike at the Daytona M&E. Another feature is the extra width and length of the deflector. They are wide enough at the bottom to clear the front fender rail bolt. Also, no screw holes..completely smooth surface. Im quite happy with this set just the way they are but I know the final set will be much better (read that shinier). Now the nuts and bolts: The use of 6061 T-6 aluminum is not cheap. For a good product you need good material and you cant do much better than the 6061 for finish and strength. A minimum of 20 orders would be needed to cover material costs. So, if you like what you see and want to commit to an order let me know, either here or in a PM. Price for both deflectors is $79.00 plus shipping. Once the minimum of 20 is reached I can contact those who committed to arrange payment. Dan is a close friend who happens to have access to the right tools and wanted to offer me a nice piece for my bike. We discussed possibly making extras and offering it to our VR members. Thats how this came about. So whatdya think????
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We finally made it home from the 5th Annual St. Jude Meet & Eat & Tour. Had a grand time, met plenty of new faces and we have been challenged, I will tell more about that later. Its after midnite and need to get to bed so we can get up and make it to church on time.. To recap the ride we had 16 bikes, 1 cage, and a total of 26 bodies. Our final donation for 2010 was $1,876.00. Very good considering we didnt have Vogel to help with the totals......... Thanks again to everyone who donated, bid, contributed, and supported this effort, it was a great team effort by all.
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As a followup to at least one other thread, I thought I'd stir the pot a bit because I just don't see the point of "over maintenance". Specifications for the RSV say... change oil @ 8,000 miles (13,000 kilometers) and change final drive oil @ 16,000 miles (25,000 kilometers). So, that means every second oil change, change the final drive oil. Some folks here feel it necessary to change their oil sooner... 3,000 miles, 5,000 miles ... overkill in my book ... "old school mentality". Some folks here also feel that, since they are changing their oil, why not change the final drive oil as well. To me, that is a waste of time and money. At least one person stated that, when they changed their final drive fluid (at the same time as changing their oil), it was BLACK and smelled BURNT. Now, assuming their changing their oil at the 8,000 mile mark (or sooner), then to you I say "you have a problem with your final drive" because under normal circumstances (and even at 16,000 miles intervals) it should NOT be black and smell burnt. I last changed my final drive oil at 18,852 kilometers. (Yes it was done at the 1,000 km service). I changed it again today at 28,076 kilometers (a difference of 9224 km or 5,730 miles) and well before the recommended interval of 16,000 miles. Here is a picture of what it looks like. As you can see, the old oil is definately not black and I can tell you that is certainly does not smell burnt. In fact, it looks perfectly normal to me. [ATTACH]49615[/ATTACH] My point(s) here being... If you are changing your final drive oil at every oil change and that is at 8,000 miles or less, then you're wasting your time and money. Do you have your differential oil in your car/truck changed at every oil change??? (I think not) Then why not I ask...if you do it on your bike... why be different with your cage? If you're changing your final drive oil at every oil change and that is at 8,000 miles or less, and it is coming out smelling BURNT and is BLACK then something is WRONG and you need to find out what that is. Everyone is entitled to doing their "own thing" and I'm not discrediting anyone for that but quite frankly, I really don't see your reasoning for changing oil at 1/2 (or less than) the recommended intervals. Having said all of the above, I hereby admit to changing not only my bikes engine oil & filter but also my final drive oil at considerably less intervals than what is recommended. (WTF..???) :witch_brew:
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Final drive? How much should there be if any? I just finished changing the oil in the final drive ,while the bike is on the center stand I decided to shake some stuff around, there is a small but noticeable amount of side play in the final drive halves, I need to know if its normal, abby-normal or ? Question #2 I don't think that the cooling fan is working, If I hook it direct to a battery and the fan runs then I guess I can figure that the fan is good but a sending unit or something else is bad, Is this sending unit up under the top of the fairing behind the head light? Thanks
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Does anyone know where I can get one? or what other method lets you know when enough is enough oil in the final drive?
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Well a few months ago I traded my final drive to get a Drive with the Vmax gears. Long story short I am not happy with it and am sorry I changed. Its too far the other way so I decided to go back to the original. I purchased a rear from Pinwall that was on a 1999 that has 70K on it. My bike has 17K. Before I put it in should I reseal and rebuild it or at that much mileage are they still tight? I plan to powdercoat it in the winter as part of the firebike theme anyway. Maybe Ill just do it now. What are your thoughts? Just put it in or do the rear first? Scotty -
...will she...uhh...come? I finished it up today, 5 months in the making, only had a few welds done professionally, the rest was me hacking away in the school's auto shop during my spare time, what little we civil servants DO have...cutting, drilling, grinding, and finishing up the electrical and painting in my shop at home...right next to the TV and coffee table. I got the idea from this website and eye balled all measurements. http://motorcycletrailer.com/tib/ Some of you may remember in late winter me asking about where the centre of gravity is on the VR...this was the reason...LOL...I enjoyed you guys guessing why I wanted to know such a thing. I changed a couple of features like only having a 2-piece backbone instead of 3 piece like they have. It's designed to be taken apart and all fit into the HHR when we reach our destination. I ended up with a couple of snags like not leaving enough room for where I planned to put the license plate, so will have to solve that, right now the plate is tie wrapped on. It's the biggest transportation related thing I've ever built, and given my pretty boy skills, I'm happy with it. It has received final approval by the Pretty Butt, so after 5 years of being a good boy, begging, pleading, and general a$$ kissing, we are going on a trip down the Blue Ridge together...YAHOO! So here's the multiple choice question for you all... Why ELSE would a guy like me build something like this??? A) because the Browner is really becoming a trailer queen of priceless value worthy of tender care during it's final years. B) because deep down I know that BradT hates being bugged for trailering duties. C) because the Pretty Butt has me ass whupped more than I realize. D) because I need to be ready on a moment's notice to head to the USA to pick up my new Gold Wing...or... E) (insert your opinion here)
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FWIW, here are a couple of pics of the final version of my mirror mount mod: Billet Aluminium mirror mount http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad39/UxHamby/vehicles/bike3/7204bc1f.jpg?t=1276049880 Mirrors from Ebay http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad39/UxHamby/vehicles/bike3/79c1c8ab.jpg?t=1276050706 I think they look good and the new mirrors have worked out much better than my old OEM mirrors which just wouldn't stay put anymore. Hope this if of interest. Cheers, Brian H. -
Anyone want to trade final drives?
rlyons posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I bought a Vmax-Venture conversion final drive from John at Sportmax a week ago, it worked great and did make it like a rocket ship on wheels strting out from a stop, but I don't like the lower gearing. I don't pull a trailer or ride two up so the extra power is not needed and I decided I liked the higher gearing after all. I did check the fuel mileage with it installed and it was the same as the old final drive so fuel mileage is not an issue. If anyone would like it, I will trade it straight up for a good low mileage unit that has no problems and looks good. All you will need to do is pay shipping for the swap. I figure that is much less than the 300 plus shipping from John for another one. Just ship me your old one with a prepaid shipping label and I will ship mine back, even up. -
This is an unusual way to be presented at your final viewing... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbpy0DWp1Co&feature=player_embedded]click[/ame]
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My wife and I a sponsoring a Poker run run May 8th. Registration starts at 8:30 There will be food , Music and a ton of prizes. All to benefit Gracie Ruth O'Neal born Feb 4th with only 3 chambers in her heart, has been through 4 surgeries and and will have many more before the final correction about age 6 So if your in Charlotte, NC Please come help us support this worthy cause and have some fun at the same time Pat Rogers, a Harley dealer, The start and stop, has stepped up and been a big help!!!
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At work, I have been in a class for almost a year. I have taken grueling exams after each section. Today was my final integrated oral exam, covering everything I have learned in the last year. I had to sit before a board, and answer all of their questions. Took about 4 hours. I came through it with flying colors. Now, I go on shift work, I will be eligible for more overtime, and I get a nice raise. Life is good! I will be doing OJT for 6 months, and then I have to take one more final oral exam...then I am all done...until I move up to the next level...lol. What a load off of my shoulders!
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I've cleaned the outside of the location where the drive shaft housing and the final drive are bolted together several times. It gets a good dirty/greasy film on the outside. No drips and no apparent seapage from there at all so am wondering where that might be coming from? Any suggestions?
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Just wondered if anyone has found their final drive getting hot? Put my hand on the diff housing, (where the oil is), after 100 ks today & could only just keep it on there. Didn't hold thermometer to it but it was hot enough to concern me. Never felt it before so don't know if this is normal? Wheel rim is warm. Oil level is good. Brake disc is cool. Thanks guys Tony.
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I just got the final thumps up on the new job. Background check and drug screen came back clean and I start orientation 8:30 Monday morning. It feels great to finally be going back to work in a real job again. Thanks for all of your hopes, prayers and crossed fingers I'm sure they were the final thing that made this all work out.
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I finally got the oil plug out of the final drive. I dipped a doll rod down in it and came out with dark brown oil on the bottom and clear oil on top. Is the brown oil from water or just old?I have no clue when the rear end has been serviced. (just got the bike) Thanks Doug
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so i opened the yamaha tool kit..
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
for my 87 venture and i found this: http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh131/seuadr/P1030757.jpg I gather its a dipstick, but.. for what? is it for the final drive? -
I removed the final drive differental to grease the splines while I have the rear tire off and when I removed the 4 bolts and the housing the drive shaft came out from the upper (transmisson) end. Looking up in the shaft tube there is a coupling that the splines slide into. My question is how do I get the shaft back into the coupling? Is there a way to get to the coupling from that end? I am going to try to align the two with a small stiff welding rod but if this does not work is there another way? Is there anything else I need to be aware of?
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I have decided to go to a V-max final drive on my 03 Venture. I have found some but either to much wear or way to expensive. I did come across an 88 final drive in good shape but I don't know if it will fit. Also I am looking to change out the gears and not the whole unit. I haven't done this before and I figure someone here will know. Ya'll have always come through for me. Thank you. Wayne
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I have decided to go to a V-max final drive on my '03 Venture. I have found some but either to much wear or way to expensive. I did come across an '88 final drive in good shape but I don't know if it will fit. Also I am looking to change out the gears and not the whole unit. I haven't done this before and I figure someone here will know. Ya'll have always come through for me. Thank you. Wayne
