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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Squeeze
    Nope, there's only one on the rear End of the Drive Saft. I never needed a new Seal either.
  2. Squeeze
    There came another Touring Version up, the Artist called it VMAX GT (Grand Tourisme). It's only this photoshoped Pic. http://www.starvmax.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=54&func=view&catid=14&id=38460 Nice Ride, like it.
  3. Squeeze
    Brad, you should ever regard those Timing Marks as a Area and not as a Spot. When you look at the H-styled Mark, only this Size of the Mark covers more or less two Degrees Angle. Even though i found the Marks fairly accurate on the V4, a Lot of others are not so accurate at all. Suzuki's are somewhat prone for being "somewhere" near. The only real Reference Point you gotta seek and relate is TDC an the Cylinder who is in checking at the Moment. When you're working on a bored, high compression Motor with really hot Cams, you need to ensure this or you may need to change a Valve or two, because they're bend. Using a Timing Wheel is a smart Move because it makes Life easier, but IMHO, it doesn't spare you to check for actual TDC. The Wheel is a really nice Tool when you're playing with slotted Cam Wheels and setting the Cams on different Overlap. Brad, the Answer to your Question/Problem is as easy as it can be. You got the Piston in TDC in the Compression Stroke and the Cam is somewhat engaging on the Shim already ? The Feeler isn't going through the Passage ? Answer: The Shim is way too thick. You gotta keep in Mind, the Clearance will always get too tight over Time. In other Words, the Shims is getting thicker and thicker in Regard to accomplish proper Clearance. You always will have to go to a thinner Shim to achieve the proper Clearance. If you find a too big Clearance, you have Oil Cole sitting on the Valve Seat or the Valve/Bucket is stuck somehow. As a Sidenote, it just came to my Mind ... what if Yammi did 2-Step Production Method and used this also as a "Safe Harbour". Basically, the lower Clearance will start to make up a real Problem when there's no Clearance left at all. The Valves, especially the EX-Valves won't be be able to distribute the Heat during Combustion to the Valve Seat and cool down by doing so. They finally burn down on due the hot Gas flowing by. If the static Profile Diameter is lower than the supposed Clearance Point, it adds up some Safety Margin.
  4. Squeeze
    All 1300cc Engine's fit mechanically as Bolt on between the 1 Gen's. Even the Carbs are the same except '83, but the jetting of the Carbs is different. So it might be a good Idea to have the 1300 cc Carbs also. If you want to use a '90 - '93 Motor, you need to do something about the different Pickup Coils.
  5. Squeeze
    Yes, that's the Way to do it.
  6. Squeeze
    Brad, that's no Rocket Science at all. It's hard to understand from the Manual, but all you gotta do for a good start on #1 is find the T1 Mark where the Cams are not touching and compressing the Valves. From there turn the Crank for specified Degrees and you should be on TDC of the next Cylinder with the Cams in same Position. I admit its awkward looking but it's the right Position. When changing to the front Bank, you have to turn 70 Degress more because you have to overcome the 70° Bank Angle. But it's all stated in the Manual.
  7. Squeeze
    The Feeler Gauge has to go all the Way through, just like you know it from all other Engines. Nope, the Shims aren't parallel to the "Side" of the Cam. If you bore a Hole between Lobe and opposite Point, the Angle between this Boring and the Shim would be ?? 65 to 75 ° or so. Hard to tell, i didn't watch out for that. Squeeze, who doesn't like to be the Bearer of bad News :whistling:
  8. Squeeze
    Well, the Timing Marks are very hard to find/see. What we have always done is to find T1 in firing TDC and worked from there. Turned the Crank for about the called Angle, feeled the TDC of the next Cylinder, checked, corrected if necessary, turned Crank to the next Angle, feel the TDC, repeat ... I use a modified old Spark Plug (as an TDC Finder Tools) to insert into the Plug Thread and feel TDC and a T-Handle with a 30 (or 32mm, not sure atm) Socket to turn the Crank. At least four Hands are Way better than only two. The Cams Lobes are showing up and outwards on one Head and up and inwards on the other Head during that.
  9. Squeeze
    Well, nobody's perfect !! :crackup:
  10. Squeeze
    I have a Vmax Shaft lying around, i will take a Look at that. There shouldn't be too much to worry about. There is no Oil Pressure and it shouldn't leak one or the other Way.
  11. Squeeze
    Sure Earl, enjoy it as long as you want. :happy34::bowdown: Your Explanation does make Sense and i figured this is all about Costs. But one should think a secong Phase adds more Risks to the overall Process and double Handling might also cost some Money.
  12. Squeeze
    Now this Production Process doesn't make Sense to me, but undoubted, you know what your talking about and this makes a Lot of Sense to me. I think i've learned something right now. Thanks Earl !!
  13. Squeeze
    Yes, but i'm not 100 Percent positive if this Direction of the Oil Seal is the correct Direction. Usually, the open Side of a U-shaped Seal goes to the Side where the Oil and the Pressure is. We have no Pressure here, but Oil to seal. Also, the outer Flanges seem to look in the "wrong Direction" to the Spline Collar om the Pinion Gear.
  14. Squeeze
    Of Course you can do what ever you prefer, but the Misinterpretation or Translation Problem isn't an Issue here. If you look through various Shop Manuals, 1Gen, 2Gen, Vmax, whatever V4 and Year and Language you always will find the same Procedure. oh, btw, the Position by the Book is TDC on firing Stroke of each Cylinder Regarding the checking the Clearance later than the quoted 26000 mls ... We have had one Vmax where, as stated above the Shim nearly didn't got out the Bucket. The Bike had 29000 mls on the Odo. Granted, the Vmax Riders are tougher on the Motor and this will hammer the Valves more into the Heads as a Venture Rider, but nevertheless it may be better to stay at the suggested Service Schedule. That's because you won't hear anything from your Valve Train until the Valve is burnt up and burning a Hole into the Piston. A Dealer turning down this Job isn't a positive Argument here. This is a rather non-funny Job and you possibly learn some new Words until your done. It's not the Measuring and Shim out/Shim in Process, the Culprit is getting the Valve Covers off and back on the Motor with the Gaskets in Place. I can see a Dealer knowingly make you feel good about "saving some Money" and deal with eventual Consequences later.
  15. Squeeze
    Folks, it doesn't matter what we all think WOULD BE right. Yammi has given us Specs for Clearance of the Cams in a given Position and Definition(off lowest Cam Point). For that Point is a given Clearance measured and specified. If we want to do the Cleaance Setting right and check it as stated in the Specs, we need to stay with the given Procedure. Period. Of course they could have given us other Clearance Specs for lowest Cam Position(180 ° to Lobe) but they didn't. Why or why not and everything else is discussable, but that's academic.
  16. Squeeze
    I've expierenced the same on my Bike, but i blamed that on a warped/misplaced Collector fro a P/O.
  17. Squeeze
    Probably only if you convert the V4 to C4.... "C" stands for Commuter in an electric Motor. :whistling: I'm really sorry, just couldn't resist. :rotf:
  18. Squeeze
    If you followed the Books Procedure with turning for so and so much Degrees for each change of Cam and Cylinder you have nothing to worry about. Why they didn't use common Cam Position ? Hard to tell, i think you would use a off TDC Position and that's not what they wanted to do because off TDC is a unrelated, variable Position ?
  19. Squeeze
    Well, i admit i read the Statement of the Mayor and the new Set of Rules well ago. And obviously i didn't compute the whole Picture and the Results of the new Game Plan. That makes good Sense to me, but the Owner should mention this on his Poster.
  20. Squeeze
    We've discussed this on our Vmax Board and we did come to Answer "stick to the Point where Yammi refered to". In other Words, check where the Cams should be by the Book, not by your Mind. We have had a Vmax in November which was so tight on one EX Valve, we nearly had to undo the Cam to get the Shim out of the Bucket. It did go out with a groove grinded into the J-Tool and on the very last Micrometer of Elevation. If you don't get the Feeler in the Books Position, the Clearance is too tight.
  21. Squeeze
    I'd call a Rep. and ask them about the Tire to fit a 2.15 Wheel. I wouldn't do it. But then, i also wouldn't mount a Car Tire on my Ride... :whistling:
  22. Squeeze
    Mark the suspected Area before undoing the Tire. Once the Tire is off the Rim, just make sure you check the Bead Diameter for Damage. Put the Rim on a Balancing Stand, hold the Tip a Flat Screwdriver to the Bead Area at a minimal Air Gap and slowly turn the Rim until you your all the way around the Circumference continue with the other Side.
  23. Squeeze
    No need to cut the Tire off. :bluesbrother: We be smarter than that. There the Size is found somewhere in casted, elevated Letters. Something like 18x2.15 MT. This is what is on our Wheels. Honda isn't that different i think. So the Question to the haunted down Rider may be something like "May i bow down and do a little research on your front Rim ?" But with a Little Luck, here's Member with such a Wing in the Stable or Knowledge about the Rim Width.
  24. Squeeze
    A 130/90 is "balloon Style" Tire whereas a 130/70 is the beginning of low-profile Tire. You can't see the Width of the Threat (130) in conjunction to the needed or better said designed Rim Width. A Baloon Style Tire goes onto a narrow Rim, a low-profile Tire goes onto a wide Rim to achieve the design Shape of the Thread. Mechanically these Tire will fit to the opposite Rim, but i doubt it will Fun to ride. The Specs are outside the desigend operation Window. If this Tire is designed for a Wing and the Rim of the Wing is as narrow as our Rims, i'd say give it a Try.
  25. Squeeze
    That's hard to tell until we don't know the Rim Size of the Wing. In general, a lower Tire Profile tends to give you less self dampening Capability but a /70 Tire will give you a sharper Steering Direction if mounted on a fitting Rim. Iirc, the 1Gen have a 2.15 Rim and that should too small to take a /70 Tire. Usually, a /70 on the front is supposed to go on a 3.5 or 3.75 Inch wide Rim. So, you might get into Suspension Trouble because of the harsher Tire Dampening and alter the Profile of the Tire to a non designed Shape. The Speedo will be off also, due to the different Tire Circumference.
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