Jump to content

M61A1MECH

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,324

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    15

 Content Type 

Everything posted by M61A1MECH

  1. M61A1MECH
    Got it, Thanks PMed back to you.
  2. M61A1MECH
    csmbrak You emailed asking for a harness for this weekend, but did not give me a ship to address. Please PM me with your address. Stevemarilyn@hotmail.com I can send priorty mail in the morning for $6.00 and you should have the parts by Thursday or Friday.
  3. M61A1MECH
    Can you post a picture of what you found? That could help a lot.
  4. M61A1MECH
    Barry, No problem, Glad I could be of help, would do it again in heart beat, I have an idea to make the install on the lights under the tank better, we need to make some time again before to long to tweak that install and get you some wing nuts for the seat. You are the one who took the worst of it, having to ride thru the cold coming and going, hope you are thawed out. Pics look good.
  5. M61A1MECH
    Barry Good on you, sounds like time and money well spent.
  6. M61A1MECH
    The carbon black used in the rubber does three things, makes the tires black, gives the rubber tensile and tear strength and acts to protect from UV raditaion by converting the UV radiation to heat. in my lab we have tested the same rubber compounds for exposure to UV and to ozone, the black ones that are affected by ozone are affected but to a much lesser degree by the UV exposure. UV can be very harmful to plastics that do not have a UV stabilizer in them.
  7. M61A1MECH
    The issue could very well be that the formula for the rubber used on the outer carcass changed slightly and a new anti ozonite was used that did not perform as well, if they use differenent compounders to mix the raw material for the outer carcass, seeming small changes in the process of mixing and milling the rubber can have huge affects on the finished product. When they add the anti ozone wax in the process can have an affect, how long they mix the batch can have an affect, if the ingriedients are not dispersed properly that will affect the finished product. So what I am saying is it not unheard of to have batch to batch differences in rubber mixing that yield different performance levels for what should be the same product. Rubber compounding and mixing is as much an art as it a science. If the problem is sporadic then it is probably process related, if the problem is endemic then it is probably a function of the chemistry of the compound.
  8. M61A1MECH
    I found this on a tire website Ozone Protection Waxes are used to protect tires against ozone. When tires are being driven they flex. This flexing causes the protective waxes to move to the surface where they form a physical barrier between the air --which contains ozone and oxygen-- and the tire polymer. This is called blooming. When tires are not regularly used, such as a parked RV, boat trailer, or classic car, this blooming does not happen. Ozone then starts eating away the protective wax and before long reaches the tire polymer. Often by this time, the surface carbon black has lost its ability to protect against UV. With UV light and ozone working together, deterioration starts. The tire dries, checks, and will eventually crack. Read more: http://www.tire-information-world.com/tire-sidewall-deterioration.html#ixzz2KPJIxXdv This could happen during long term storage at wholesalers, also why many tires are wrapped in paper.
  9. M61A1MECH
    One of the major offenders of ruber products, like tires, is ozone, the damage that ozone causes is severeing of the bonds of the rubber and reinforcing in the rubber. The damage shown in the photos appears to me to be very simlar to typical ozone attack that is aggrevated by stess on the rubber, such as vehicle weight and internal presure. A few typical sources of ozone generation are , electrical motors (arching of the brushes) , high voltage discharges ( like you find in copy machines or arc welders) and exhaust gasses from hydrocarbon burning vehicles (like propane fueled forklifts). It is very possible that large warehouses like you would expect some of the online parts dealers and tire distributors to use propane forklifts. If the tires are stored for some time in this environment they could very easily be affected, they may not manifest the visible defects until they are mounted, pressurized and ridden for some time, which caues the side wall to flex, aggravating the stress fractures caused by the breaking of the polymer chains. I run a test lab where we have our elastomeric compounds tested for ozone damage and I have seen this over and over again, especially on natural ruber and Nitrile rubber, both are used heavily in the tire industry.
  10. M61A1MECH
    Yes, I came to the Venture after 9 years and 96,000 miles on a 98 Royal Star Tour Classic. After 60,000 miles on the Venture still very happy with the performance, reliabilty and comfort. Love this V-4 platform.
  11. M61A1MECH
    Also check the clamps on the black tunnels that go from the bottom of the air box to the tops of the carbs, some times they get loose or if one is not careful when installing the air box the rubber "boot" gets pinched or pushed out of the way and does not seat properly to effect a seal.
  12. M61A1MECH
    I am not where my bike is, but I am pretty sure that top most hole is just a drain for the recessed area that the spark plug sits in and is there so the spark plug does not drown if you get caught in the rain or when you wash the bike.
  13. M61A1MECH
    If you really want a pretty bike, find a 98 Tour Classic they came as either Black and White or my favorite Emerald Green and Tan, had one for 9 years, after 96K she still looked like new. Sorry I ever let her go. The green/tan versions are pretty rare.
  14. M61A1MECH
    You say the thermister is good , but did not explain how you checked it. If it is bad the on board diagnostics will cause the fuel gauge to flash 3 repitions of 8 blinks and then the last segment on the left side will flash if the thermister is bad. If the sending unit is bad the last segment on the right will flash. Mine is getting ready to go, I have the fault flashing when I turn the ignition switch on and the right end segment flashes and the bingo fuel light and mileage counter come on after I have to switch to the reserve on the petcock. They both still work, but come on much later that they did in the past. Not sure why you would have 9 volts. Is that 9 volts going to the sensor or coming out of the sensor?
  15. M61A1MECH
    There are 4, one under each set of fins. If you do not drain the coolant before you pull one of those plugs, you will have a minor flood on your hands. Never run the bike with the fins off, those plugs will blow out. There is a very good write up in the tech sction on changing the coolant, with a very clever idea using an old water bottle as a funnel. It works really well.
  16. M61A1MECH
    Jeff Very well stated, had my head wrapped around it, just could not get my fingers to say it as well as you did.
  17. M61A1MECH
    The Clymer manual may not speak to the entire entire fuel gauge flashing but the Yamaha service manual does, go back and look at my post on the 13th. The entire gauge flashes first and then either the left or right most segmenrt will flash telling you which unit is bad, the thermistor or the sending unit.
  18. M61A1MECH
    djh3 One of my aux harnesses could be a help to you maybe, check out my listing on the classified section under member vendors. Have Venture harnesses in stock ready to ship.
  19. M61A1MECH
    Could be the proverbial canary in the coal mine telling you the ignition switch is on the way out. According to the manual the only time the fuel gauge should flash is if the fuel gauge, sending unit or thermister is bad. If the fuel sensing system is bad the main gauge will flash a pattern of on and off eight times, then off 3 seconds, then repeat for 3 cycles after that either the first or last segment will blink. If first unit (left most) blinks 8 times then the thermistor is bad, if the right most unit blinks the sending unit is bad. Neither of these problems should result in the engine shutting off, so it is likely that there is a faulty circuit someplace else, like the ignition switch that is mimicing a faulty sensing unit some how, and causing the diagnostics system to be fooled about the real problem.
  20. M61A1MECH
    Google "everlast metal hand forged" and you will get a lot of various sites including sales on ebay, most items similar to your photo are listed at between $25.00 and $50.00.
  21. M61A1MECH
    Hey Barry There is a Corbin showroom up in Ormond Beach just south of Destination Daytona. If you get over this to do that work you want to do, maybe we will have time for a test ride up tp Ormond, lt ls only about 30 miles. They can look at it for you.
  22. M61A1MECH
    I hear what you are saying about adding the extra tubing to an area on the bike that is visible, that is one of the reasons I have not done what you are getting ready to do, I could not convince myself that I could make it look as presentable as I want it to be. The rubber tube over the brake line is a pretty snug fit, you may have problems getting the wires inside of it. I just looked at mine again, I wonder what it would look like if you put the convluted or splt tubing around the existing brake line and put the wiring inside of that , as opposed to having an aditional tube running beside the existing brake line? I think I have some of that in garage , maybe I will just put some on later to see how it looks. I agre I am not a fan of exposed sprial wrap, it has it's place in the world, but not on the outside of my bike. Let us know how you handle it and how it works out, pictures are mandtory of course.
  23. M61A1MECH
    DJH3 Be happy to try and meet up with in Feb, coming up for the races? it is a big deal up here that time of year, just like Sebring in March only bigger. Here is a link to one of many places on the net you can find such info. The LEDs are going to draw very little current so that is probably not the biggest concern, I would worry more about the robustness of the wire and insulation in a dynamic application such as on a motorcycle. I think the minimum I would consider is 20 gauge, but would probably feel more comfortable with 18 gauge. I would also recommend running the wires in a flexible plastic sheath or tube of some type, that stuff can be found at auto parts stores or Radio Shack. http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
  24. M61A1MECH
    The strips I used in the link I provided have the wires exiting out the back, makes it difficult to mount directly on the bag rails. I have some photos of the set up I used, PM me at stevemarilyn@hotmail.com and I can send them to you if you like. If you are coming up towards Daytona any time soon I can show them to you in person.
  25. M61A1MECH
    I mounted a set of these (http://www.iowa80.com/DirectionsWEB/webcart_productDisplay.php?itemid=158736&green=CDD68D24-F193-58BD-B813-3DCFE8BF9F10&utm_source=mybuys&utm_medium=website&utm_campaign=web_rec) to the lower saddle bag rails, made a set of brackets and mounted an amber and a red on each side. Not overly bright for day time use, but work very well at night. Hooked the red ones to the runing light circuit and the brake circuit thru a modulator so they flash when brakes are applied and the ambers are set as running and turn signals, both are using the divider network from chrome glow I posted earlier.
×
×
  • Create New...