M61A1MECH

I have had a request from Valk rider to make an auxillary harness for his Valkyrie to hook up to a trailer, I found a wiring schematic for a standard Valk, it shows two connectors for the tail/brake/signal circuits. A 4 pin for the left and right turns and then a 3 pin for the tail/brake lights. I could use some help getting photos of the connectors so I can match them up. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Yeah I had the same problem the virus scanner I have saw it as a virus and would not load it and then deleted it.

I am not sure which year they started but Yamaha did make a slight change to the rear shock that was supposed to help it resist getting dirt and road grime under the bellows, something to do with adding or relocating the vent tube as I recall, that may explain the difference in pricing. The newer th rmodel you can find the better off you will be as far as getting the most up to date design, should fit the same just has the added or extended vent tube. Yeah what Freebird said while I was typing :-)

Well I know that some folks have adapted RSV seats to their TDs, so they can' be that far off. I do not recall ever hearing someone going the other way, normally the folks making the change to the RSV seat do so to get the comfort of the pillow top seat.

Found this on WIMP.COM, anyone ever try it, looks very interesting, could be useful for quick emergency repairs on the road. http://sugru.com/us

I am partial to the Emerald Green and Ivory that came on the 98 Tour Classic.

There is a fellow in Orlando that frequents the Delphi forums that is redoing Venture seats, fairly reasable if I remember correctly. I can get you the link if you are not familiar with the Delphi forums.

Got it, Thanks PMed back to you.

csmbrak You emailed asking for a harness for this weekend, but did not give me a ship to address. Please PM me with your address. Stevemarilyn@hotmail.com I can send priorty mail in the morning for $6.00 and you should have the parts by Thursday or Friday.

Can you post a picture of what you found? That could help a lot.

Barry, No problem, Glad I could be of help, would do it again in heart beat, I have an idea to make the install on the lights under the tank better, we need to make some time again before to long to tweak that install and get you some wing nuts for the seat. You are the one who took the worst of it, having to ride thru the cold coming and going, hope you are thawed out. Pics look good.

Barry Good on you, sounds like time and money well spent.

The carbon black used in the rubber does three things, makes the tires black, gives the rubber tensile and tear strength and acts to protect from UV raditaion by converting the UV radiation to heat. in my lab we have tested the same rubber compounds for exposure to UV and to ozone, the black ones that are affected by ozone are affected but to a much lesser degree by the UV exposure. UV can be very harmful to plastics that do not have a UV stabilizer in them.

The issue could very well be that the formula for the rubber used on the outer carcass changed slightly and a new anti ozonite was used that did not perform as well, if they use differenent compounders to mix the raw material for the outer carcass, seeming small changes in the process of mixing and milling the rubber can have huge affects on the finished product. When they add the anti ozone wax in the process can have an affect, how long they mix the batch can have an affect, if the ingriedients are not dispersed properly that will affect the finished product. So what I am saying is it not unheard of to have batch to batch differences in rubber mixing that yield different performance levels for what should be the same product. Rubber compounding and mixing is as much an art as it a science. If the problem is sporadic then it is probably process related, if the problem is endemic then it is probably a function of the chemistry of the compound.

I found this on a tire website Ozone Protection Waxes are used to protect tires against ozone. When tires are being driven they flex. This flexing causes the protective waxes to move to the surface where they form a physical barrier between the air --which contains ozone and oxygen-- and the tire polymer. This is called blooming. When tires are not regularly used, such as a parked RV, boat trailer, or classic car, this blooming does not happen. Ozone then starts eating away the protective wax and before long reaches the tire polymer. Often by this time, the surface carbon black has lost its ability to protect against UV. With UV light and ozone working together, deterioration starts. The tire dries, checks, and will eventually crack. Read more: http://www.tire-information-world.com/tire-sidewall-deterioration.html#ixzz2KPJIxXdv This could happen during long term storage at wholesalers, also why many tires are wrapped in paper.

One of the major offenders of ruber products, like tires, is ozone, the damage that ozone causes is severeing of the bonds of the rubber and reinforcing in the rubber. The damage shown in the photos appears to me to be very simlar to typical ozone attack that is aggrevated by stess on the rubber, such as vehicle weight and internal presure. A few typical sources of ozone generation are , electrical motors (arching of the brushes) , high voltage discharges ( like you find in copy machines or arc welders) and exhaust gasses from hydrocarbon burning vehicles (like propane fueled forklifts). It is very possible that large warehouses like you would expect some of the online parts dealers and tire distributors to use propane forklifts. If the tires are stored for some time in this environment they could very easily be affected, they may not manifest the visible defects until they are mounted, pressurized and ridden for some time, which caues the side wall to flex, aggravating the stress fractures caused by the breaking of the polymer chains. I run a test lab where we have our elastomeric compounds tested for ozone damage and I have seen this over and over again, especially on natural ruber and Nitrile rubber, both are used heavily in the tire industry.

Yes, I came to the Venture after 9 years and 96,000 miles on a 98 Royal Star Tour Classic. After 60,000 miles on the Venture still very happy with the performance, reliabilty and comfort. Love this V-4 platform.

Also check the clamps on the black tunnels that go from the bottom of the air box to the tops of the carbs, some times they get loose or if one is not careful when installing the air box the rubber "boot" gets pinched or pushed out of the way and does not seat properly to effect a seal.

I am not where my bike is, but I am pretty sure that top most hole is just a drain for the recessed area that the spark plug sits in and is there so the spark plug does not drown if you get caught in the rain or when you wash the bike.

If you really want a pretty bike, find a 98 Tour Classic they came as either Black and White or my favorite Emerald Green and Tan, had one for 9 years, after 96K she still looked like new. Sorry I ever let her go. The green/tan versions are pretty rare.

You say the thermister is good , but did not explain how you checked it. If it is bad the on board diagnostics will cause the fuel gauge to flash 3 repitions of 8 blinks and then the last segment on the left side will flash if the thermister is bad. If the sending unit is bad the last segment on the right will flash. Mine is getting ready to go, I have the fault flashing when I turn the ignition switch on and the right end segment flashes and the bingo fuel light and mileage counter come on after I have to switch to the reserve on the petcock. They both still work, but come on much later that they did in the past. Not sure why you would have 9 volts. Is that 9 volts going to the sensor or coming out of the sensor?

There are 4, one under each set of fins. If you do not drain the coolant before you pull one of those plugs, you will have a minor flood on your hands. Never run the bike with the fins off, those plugs will blow out. There is a very good write up in the tech sction on changing the coolant, with a very clever idea using an old water bottle as a funnel. It works really well.

Jeff Very well stated, had my head wrapped around it, just could not get my fingers to say it as well as you did.

The Clymer manual may not speak to the entire entire fuel gauge flashing but the Yamaha service manual does, go back and look at my post on the 13th. The entire gauge flashes first and then either the left or right most segmenrt will flash telling you which unit is bad, the thermistor or the sending unit.

djh3 One of my aux harnesses could be a help to you maybe, check out my listing on the classified section under member vendors. Have Venture harnesses in stock ready to ship.