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V7Goose

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  1. V7Goose
    Your popping is coming from an intake leak - 90% chance that just replacing the caps on two of vacuum nipples will solve your problem, This has been discussed here in great detail. there are several possible causes, but all are easily identified and fixed. Most likely cause is an intake leak. Some people will suggest you should disconnect the AIS to fix this problem. In my opinion, that is an absolutely STUPID idea. Yes, stopping the fresh air induction into the header pipes can reduce or stop the popping, but the fact is, there is something wrong with your bike, and if you find it and FIX it, that will stop the popping. I do not understand the strange attitude of some who say they do not care that there is a problem with their engine - they do not want to fix it, just don't want to be told that the problem exists. You are not too far away - ride that thing down here and we will get it sorted out (or maybe I'll ride up there?). Goose
  2. V7Goose
    Well, since turning the forks alone changed the ticking, you may be able to fix it by doing nothing more than grabbing the wire bundle where it comes out in front of the tank on the left side of the steering head and just generally pulling and moving it there - that is exactly what was happening when you turned the forks, so do it a bit more with your hand. You can't really grab the wires there, but if you turn the forks all the way to the right, then you can put a long screwdriver or stick under the wires near the front of the steering head and kind of pry up on them a bit to stretch them out - no need to do it too hard. I have stopped the interference on several bikes this way without having to pull the tank. ALSO, with the engine off (and cool), just slide your fingers around behind that top left dog bone (upper engine mount). You will feel the plug and wire just behind it. Make sure the plug cap is fully down on the plug and use your fingers to try and tug a bit on the plug wire to see if you can move it a bit. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    This is not particularly uncommon, but is usually very easy to fix as described by several people above. Often the amount of ignition noise will change just by turning the forks all the way to one side or another - this is caused by the wires being slightly pulled by the turning forks, thus slightly changing their position in relation to the spark plug wires. If just trying to slightly readjust the position of the wire bundles under the gas tank has not fixed the issue, pay attention to how the plug wire is routed. If it is arched up against the wires, try pulling it down and to the side a bit. Although shielding the wire bundles with foil can work, it is not necessary on this bike. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    Been giving this a little more thought for ya - the fact that you said the light didn't come back on after you switched the key off indicates that the problem may be intermittent. I doubt that this bike has a real computer that can store the error code like an ODBII system on a car, so if the actual problem is not happening when the key is first turned on, the self-diagnosis probably won't show any codes. In that case, you may have to wait for the problem to get worse before you can find it. However, at a minimum, I'd re-seat the plug on the ignitor a couple of times to clean the pin contacts - that may permanently fix it. Also, if the light comes on while riding, test the cruise control before you shut the bike off. One common component that can set the engine light and cause problems with the cruise is the speed sensor, so if the engine light comes on, but the cruise control works (and STAYS engaged for a while), that probably will eliminate the speed sensor as an intermittent problem. You can also try bypassing the emergency stop switch as a way of eliminating that as an intermittent cause. Finally, the TPS would be a prime cause of an intermittent problem, and it is easy to test without taking anything off except the tank. You can follow the instructions on page 6-11 of the shop manual, but you will find an old analog ohmmeter much better for this than a modern digital meter since one of the primary symptoms you will be looking for is a smooth change of resistance between the yellow and black wires while you roll on the throttle. And if you happen to get that far and decide to go ahead and check the actual setting of the TPS as defined on page 6-13, you need to be aware of several issues. First, on at least 50% of these engines, the TPS canNOT be properly adjusted in the calculated range. For example, if the calculated range ends up being 625-725, it is not uncommon for the TPS to NOT be able to go below 800 ohms. So don't get too concerned about this. If the measured resistance with the throttle closed is within 100 ohms of the calculated range, it is probably not worth even trying to adjust it unless you have already removed the carbs to check the float levels or clean the jets. Secondly, you have to actually remove the carbs (or at least pull them up off the intake joints) to be able to even loosen or remove the TPS, and even then you will need a torx security bit to defeat the anti-tamper post in the screw heads. Lastly, know that the shop manual has a big error on page 6-13 where it tells you to set the resistance between the yellow and blue wires - you must use the yellow and BLACK wires. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    The oil level light suggested by a couple of people above is unrelated to the Engine Trouble Warning light, as is the OD light jokingly alluded to by Condor. It is true that the oil level light can briefly flash on under some circumstances, but this is NORMAL and is documented in the owner's manual. Assuming you actually saw the Engine trouble warning light like you said, you should run the self-diagnostics covered at the end of the shop manual (page 8-76). This bike has three self-diagnostic systems, but one is specific to the fuel gauge and another for the cruise control. You are interested in the first one for the ignition related systems. Hopefully that will lead you to the cause of the problem. Goose
  6. V7Goose
    The owner's manual has both pictures and location description of the fuse boxes along with the location of the specific fuses. That's the beauty of actually 'R'-ing the FM (and why I even gave the exact page number in the 03 manual). But that other site does have a lot of good tech info, as does our own tech library. Great to share that. Thanx Goose
  7. V7Goose
    David, I am very sorry if you felt we (and me in particular) were not being helpful. Royalstar09 did specifically tell you where that fuse was in post #8, and then when you asked again, it seemed that you might be better served to be directed to the documentation so that you could "learn to fish", so to speak. Had you told us that you couldn't find it in the manual in the first place, we could have addressed that issue easily. In your 2003 owner's manual, it is called the "Odometer fuse" on page 7-36. Starting in 2004, they made the book a bit more clear by calling it the "Odometer and Clock fuse (backup)", and then in 2005, they changed it again to "Backup fuse (for odometer and clock)". So you can see that the name someone gives you for this particular fuse can be different depending on what year bike the respondent has. If that does not fix your problem, please post again and we will give it another try. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    Hello AJ - I'm in the area, and I'd be glad to help. I don't know how much space you have, but this might be a good opportunity to meet some of the other locals too - pick a date and post it here as kind of a mini maintenance day. You don't need to plan anything big, or even schedule it more than a week out - just tell folks a date and you will probably have around half a dozen folks or so stop by to say hi. Most of the scheduled service is very simple and doesn't take too long. The swing arm and steering bearings are the two big items, but they are not critical to do at the exact same time. And the steering bearings on your bike will be a lot less work than on a Venture! Goose
  9. V7Goose
    Or just RTFM! Goose
  10. V7Goose
    All Years are the same. The side of the bike is always stated in reference to the rider. The main fuse box is behind the battery cover on the left side, and the secondary fuse box us under the lower cowling on the right side. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    Your symptoms are identical to what you would get if the Backup Fuse is blown. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    Yes, those are the valves. No, adjusting them does not have any effect on the calibration (unless you adjust them so low the flutter totally stops). A four stroke engine only produces vacuum 1/4 of the time (during the intake stroke). The gauge shows max vacuum and then leaks down during the other three strokes; this is what causes the flutter. By closing the valve down, you slow down the amount of leak down at the gauge so that it stays close to the vacuum reading from the intake stroke. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    Sounds to me like you did it right. You DO want a little wiggle in the needles - if you close the valves down so much they stop moving, you have absolutely no idea if they are reading correctly or not. Any wiggle is good enough - you do not need them to jump any particular amount. The reason you found it so much easier than a carb tune? Well, in my personal opinion, it is simply because the cab tune is a junk tool that is not worth using unless it is the only thing you have available! (People who have already sunk their money on a carb tune tend to argue with this - maybe to keep themselves happy?, but that is OK, they have a right to their opinion too!) Goose
  14. V7Goose
    This very old thread was just the PRELIMINARY report I made on the Pirelli tires. Before you can judge a pirelliu MT66 tire through my eyes, you need to find the final report too. But since someone decided to dig this up, I'll just add a short note here - I don't buy the Pirelli MT66 tires any more. Nothing bad about them, but they weren't especially good, either. They only last about 2/3 as long as an Avon Venom, they do not handle anywhere near as good as the Venom (about the same as a Dunlop D404), and they make moderate noise. The bottom line is that the only really good thing they have going for them is the lower price, but the shorter life totally offsets that. In the end, you do not save a penny, you have to change tires more often, and you never get to ride on really good tires. As for the Venom sidewall cracking - it is almost all just superficial (meaning I do not think any of it is dangerous), but it still should not be happening on tires less than three years old unless they were stored in the sun, anywhere in a smog city like all of Southern California, or near electric motors. I also never had it happen to my Avons. I have been running E3s for the last two years, but now that I have completed my testing of two sets of those, I'm going back to the Venoms next. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    Yup - now I am getting the same results - 38 returns. Very different than what I got earlier in the day. Cannot explain it yet. Will keep working on it. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    Those results do not match mine - I'll play with it some and see if I can figure out what is causing the difference. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    Just put the words in quotes, exactly like you did above. Goose (But those three words only return 11 posts, even without the quotes - can't be THAT hard to look through, can it?)
  18. V7Goose
    Yes, as Don said, this is extremely common (but it hasn't been mentioned here for a while). http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42697&highlight=brackets Those rubber bumpers touching the fork sliders are critical (and they are easy to drag off with a rag while washing the bike). Goose
  19. V7Goose
    Sounds like cruddy quality control at the factory (not too surprising in China). The hubs are probably welded wrong, or maybe even the bearing races not seated straight. Anyway, I would just insist on a replacement from HF. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    The experiences here are definitely a mixed bag - my original shock went out pretty quick (around 17,000 miles), and it was preceded by the groaning. The second shock started groaning a couple o year later and I thought it would fail soon - but it has been about four years and no failure yet. So it seems to be just a crap shoot. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    The only hard part (once you have the inner fairing totally removed) is if you have to change the bearings. If there is nothing wrong with your bearings, all you need to do is drop the steering head and grease them. The top bearing can just be lifted out and greased normally. The lower bearing will be stuck on the shaft, so you just use your fingers (or a needle tip grease gun) to mash the grease into the rollers while the bearings are still on the shaft. Not hard at all. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    Just a different opinion - but I do NOT recommend changing the position of those vents. Doing so will increase the air pollution from fuel fumes without giving you any benefit at all. Those hoses are routed in front of the air intakes for a very specific reason - so that the gas fumes get ingested back through the engine while the bike is running. The vast majority of these bikes have never had any problem at all from the gas fumes behind the lower fairings, so this is NOT a regular problem that you need to prevent. And in the few cases where a problem has been found, it is covered by the warranty. I had the paint near the left vent hose begin to bubble sometime in the first year or two, and Yamaha replaced the lower without question. It has never happened again, so that tells me the problem was a defective paint job, not the gas fumes. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    As the Chief Information Officer in several companies, I made sure that reasonable use of company computer equipment, telephones, copiers, etc. for personal needs was specifically allowed, and even encouraged. I found this was very important for morale and esprit de corps. It also saved us money. (The inclusion of the "reasonable" limitation was only to have a legal foot to stand on if the occasional bad apple chose to do things that negatively impacted the company.) I managed my employees by objective - basically that meant they were clear on what they were expected to accomplish, and they were free to meet those objectives through whatever means they wanted. As long as they accomplished the things for which they were being paid in the appropriate time frames, I didn't care what they did on "company time". Jumping to conclusions is often a blind jump. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    The last shaft from the linkage pivots between the transmission and the middle gear cover. Check to make sure you got that shaft properly positioned in the hole on the bottom of the middle gear cover. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    There is a carb overflow tube that is routed in front of the air cleaner on each side. In the stock configuration, those tubes are crossed from the factory, so if you ever see gas running down the left side lower fairing, it is from a stuck float on the RIGHT side (and vice versa). (Just to make things more confusing, I always UN-cross them when I have the carbs out of a bike, so that leaking gas is always coming from the same side as the problem carb.) Goose
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