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V7Goose

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Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    He has two pallets full and wants to get rid of them - $40 is getting greedy! There is a local Harley dealer in Fort Worth who sells them for $10. I'd suggest he get realistic. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    The horn is actually working fine - the noise in the speaker is just an anomoly. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    The stock DC outlets are only intended for very low amp loads. If you want to use a lighter or other high amp load, you will need to disconnect the outlet from the existing wiring and run 14 AWG wire directly from the battery with an in-line fuse. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    I used a JCW ShowChrome windshield for a while (no problem with cracking at all). Unfortunately, it is 4" or 5" shorter than stock, and at 6'5", that was just too short for me. I can't remember if the ShowChrome or the Yamaha short is the shorter one, but I could look it up if you need me to. Anyway, I just went back to my stock shield and cut about 1 /12" off the top. Now it is perfect for me. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    Based on many days riding and comparing actual GPS reported speed with my 05 RSV, my speedometer is about 9% fast. Goose
  6. V7Goose
    Don, I did that same test (one tank without ever going into 5th) last year, but my results were VERY different! But I wasn't comparing it to someone dragging a trailer, just to my own every day gas mileage. I did most of th tank on the highway at 75-80, where I normally get about 37 MPG. Running without ever using 5th, I only got about 30 MPG for that tank. I think I posted this back when I did it. Anyway, good luck with your choice - I look forward to reading about your results. Goose
  7. V7Goose
    Hey man, one more thought just came to me - read your plugs. Small effort to remove the front dog-bones to pull them, and the info could be valuable. First, no matter what color they are, all four should be IDENTICAL. If they are not, then it indicates something is off in the mixture of one or more cylinders. In my case, even though all four plugs looked excellent, there was just a bit of black soot showing on the upper 1/2 of the ceramic insulators (down deep in the plug as you look at it) on the two cylinders that had the cracked rubber caps on the intake nipples. This was the evidence of the vacuum leak causing a slight amount of misfires at idle. These misfires were not detectable in the way the engine ran, but it allowed enough unburned fuel to pass into the exhaust system to cause the after-fires. Assuming that all four plugs look identical, then the next question is the color. They should be uniform light tan. There are a number of places on the internet to find pictures to compare. If there is any doubt at all about the plugs being in perfect condition, then I'd put new ones in for the duration of the testing and read them again after a good run. Of course, for any of your testing to be valid, you will need to make sure the engine is fully warmed up. The only thing you can validly do at idle is the spray test. After any other changes, you will need to take the bike for a run through some varying conditions that cause you to do a fair amount of acceleration and quick throttle closes. In this case, keep the RPMs down; screaming acceleration is not what you want. I have found that if there IS a vacuum leak, the effects are most evident when you chop the throttle after a prolonged load on the engine (such as climbing a steep grade at medium RPM). Goose
  8. V7Goose
    The after-market pipes might be the entire cause of the "burbling" - might just be normal engine running as accentuated by those pipes. Certainly hard to tell without actually hearing it. As for those rubber caps on the manifold nipples, in my experience, if you see any cracks at all in the rubber, they are leaking. I didn't think mine were all the way through either, but they WERE the problem. An easy replacement is to just buy a foot of thin-wall rubber gas line the right size for the nipples, cut about 1 1/2 inch and double it over. Slide this on the nipple and then put the original clamp or a small zip tie over the whole thing. The first thing I would do to trouble shoot it is to remove the vacuum lines and the existing rubber caps on the nipples and cover all four with a piece of gas line (or even vinyl tubing for the test) like I described above. For this test, you will also need to temporarily plug the AIS lines that go to the four exhaust ports too. Pull them off the AIS valve and put a screw wrapped in electrical tape in them. If you just pull the vacuum lines without plugging the lines to the AIS injection ports, you will CREATE after-fires. If that still does not change the pops, or if you just want to skip that step, then the next way to look for vacuum leaks is to get a can of carb cleaner or WD-40 and carefully start spraying it around the intake manifolds, carb connections, vacuum lines, rubber caps, etc., while the bike is idling. If at any point the engine speed or sound changes even the slightest, you just found a vacuum leak. Finally, if you have eliminated all possibilities of a vacuum leak, make sure that there are no leaks in the exhaust pipes, especially around the Y joints, as these will absolutely cause after-fires in the right conditions. Assuming no leaks in either the intake or exhaust, then the last possibility I can think of is that those after market pipes just do not have enough back pressure to run with the stock carb settings - it may be running too lean. You might be able to fix it by just adjusting the air screw settings, or it might take re-jetting. Either way, I wouldn't fiddle with the carbs myself; I'd take it to someone with a dyno and exhaust gas analyzer to get it set correctly (or just go back to stock pipes). Goose
  9. V7Goose
    Assuming you are asking about a 2nd Gen, the vacuum hoses are actually on cylinders 2 and 4 according to the shop manual (but in reality I have seen them on cylinders 2 and 3 as you stated), and they go to the Air Induction System (AIS) valve. These vacuum lines are what control the AIS and cause the valve to close when you chop the throttle, thus preventing after-fire pops through the exhaust. Any vacuum leaks in the intake tracts will cause after-fires by either causing an excessively lean fuel mixture, allowing additional oxygen the be pulled through the combustion chamber into the exhaust during high vacuum, or preventing the AIS valve from properly shutting during closed throttle operation. Depending on where the vacuum leak is, it could be any one of the above, or a combination of all three. Just as an editorial note - I know many owners have disabled or removed the AIS to eliminate after-fires; however, in my experience, this is completely unnecessary. As long as there are no vacuum leaks or exhaust leaks, and the carbs are reasonably close to sync, these engines do NOT pop on deceleration. Goose BTW- here is another extraneous piece of information about these vacuum hoses: I once had an intermittent sound of something hitting the cooling fan when it came on. It turned out to be one of these hoses! They are routed forward and down very close to the fan, and it just moved a little bit to allow it to rub a corner of the fan. Very difficult to find because you can't see it, and it did not rub when just turning the fan with my fingers.
  10. V7Goose
    What a loser of a dealer. Sorry you have to put up with them. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    Hey Don, how'd that fix do for your exhaust smell? Now that you two have put some more miles on it, we should be able to get a definitive answer. Sure would be great if it was really that easy! Goose
  12. V7Goose
    I, too, jumped through hops to find GL-4 when I did the first service on my RSV. I had lots of GL-5 on the shelf (needed for the limited slip diff in my truck), but the manual called for GL-4. I also knew that GL-5 was not compatible with some metals used in certain transmissions, although the details now escape me. Anyway, after I finally found the GL-4, I was re-reading the user's manual and found a note that specifically stated GL-5 was acceptable. Not sure exactly where that was now, but it is in there! Goose
  13. V7Goose
    Thanx for posting that. I find it very interesting that he claims the same wheels will fit any of those various bikes from different manufacturers - I will have to do some research on that. I find the stock wheels on the RSV butt-ugly, so I would like to replace them with something nicer. I refuse to buy anything off ebay, so those don't tempt me, but the info is intriguing! Goose
  14. V7Goose
    I have not personally tired it, but I have read numerous reports that it is completely worthless from those who have. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    Looks to me that maybe someone did not put the two lower cowlings on correctly. The left one (that is sticking out in your picture) fits under the edge of the right one. If both are put on correctly, they will be fine even without the center plastic rivet. Good luck, Goose
  16. V7Goose
    Well, Mr. WestTex, careful not to over react to the niggling information we share among ourselves. This bike is a fantastic machine. Yes, there are a few relatively minor weak points, as every bike ever made has, but in my opinion, the known issues with the RSV are far less significant than the major issues with the other big tourers. The most significant to your potential enjoyment would be the engine whine that some have (and only a relatively few "some"). Make sure you test ride it for a minimum of 20 miles, including highway speeds. If you aren't irritated, then you have nothing to worry about for the whine. If the bike has it, it will bite you quick, else it is not cursed. As a 2003, you still have warranty left, so all of the other potential things are not really significant. The good stuff? This bike will eat the miles with the best of them! Fantastically comfortable; in fact, the ONLY option IMHO if you are tall (I'm 6'5"). This machine is tremendously reliable, looks better than just about anything else, and is dirt cheap by comparison with most. Buy it and ride the snot out of it. Good luck, Goose BTW - if you decide against it, let me know; I think the 03 is the most beautiful of all the RSVs. For a good enough deal, I'd happily pick it up and sell my 05! I've only got 35,000 miles on QuickSilver, but I lust after that Raspberry and Sand paint.
  17. V7Goose
    Plug wires do NOT last forever. I'd bet you are just loosing spark through bleed to ground through the insulation. Replace the plug wires and all will be well. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    Use something padded between the bag and the fender to slightly push the inside of the bag back and take off any pressure to the latch. Your goal here is to simply make the bag side straight instead of bowed out. This will probably not be necessary if the bag is empty. Use two hands to push down on the bag lid above both latches. With your third hand, push the button. Should open right up if you are pushing down hard enough to relieve the pressure on the latches. If the bag is full, you will need your fourth hand to lever in the back side of the bag as described in 1. above.
  19. V7Goose
    Well Wayne, the facts you "know" don't match the facts I know. I guess we'll just both have to walk around "knowing" our facts are better. BTW - bikes have had the saddle tank design for more years than either of us have been around, and relatively few of them put on a leveling tube like my Guzzis have, but most of them still do not run out of gas prematurely. Since bikes lean in corners (and on the side stand, that's why the petcock is always on the left), normal sloshing usually causes virtually all of the gas to be available unless you are simply burning miles on the freeway while you nod off. RedRider, here is the link to the info on venting the filler neck: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=302 Caution - some folks in that thread suggested drilling instead of using a punch awl - DO NOT DRILL!!!!!!!!! That is the worst possible idea. First, any electric drill causes sparks where the brushes run in the motor (can you say BOOM?). Even if you used a hand crank drill, the metal filings will be bad news. Good luck, Goose
  20. V7Goose
    Well, you can't say that anymore - I have often put in over 5.5 gals, and while the bike was on the center stand too. Once last week when I had to stretch a tank in the Ozarks really far on Mother's day, I put 5.94 in when I finally found a station open. I HAVE vented my tank neck, which allows me to fill it completely without too much fuss, and I think it is completely understandable why this is necessary. Yamahaha would rather play it safe and have the tank seem full at 5.5 gallons that risk dealing with the problems from lazy and inattentive owners spilling fuel when they don't shut the gas off soon enough during fueling. Anyway, the RSV tank DOES indeed hold six gallons, and many here have reported in other threads that they have come close to that on some fill ups. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    Absolutely NOT true for my 05 QuickSilver! I have many times ridden 50-60 miles on reserve and put in between 5.4 and 5.9 gallons on fill up. At least on my bike, ALL fuel in the tank is available for use. My guess is that the unfortunate who thinks there is 1/2 gallon not usable had not vented the fuel neck and just simply was not able to fully fill the tank. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    Not correct. The trigger for the low fuel light and the F trip meter are completely separate. I find that my F trip meter starts about three miles before the low fuel light begins to flicker. When I am not leaving my bike in reserve all the time, I also find that the both the F trip meter and the low fuel light will be on about 5-7 miles before the engine begins to starve and I need to switch to reserve. I do agree that reserve comes on regularly with about 4.5 gallons left. This is contrary to the manual that states reserve is 1 gallon. Goose Actually, the more I think about it, Buddyrich may be correct - since the low fuel light does come on slowly, sometimes flickering, sometimes glowing dim and building to a steady glow, it is certainly possible that it flickers on once and triggers the F meter without my ever seeing the light.
  23. V7Goose
    These lights are certainly priced right and interesting, but one thing to think about is that they do not appear to be designed for highway use. Highway lights have a lens that causes the light spread to be cut off level on the top and spread down and to the right. These lights seem to be simple spots and floods that spread in a full round pattern. The narrow spot with 12 degree spread might be OK for high beam use (when you should never have them on facing oncoming traffic anyway), but not for full time use. Only pattern testing and real time night testing will tell for sure. You might want to call their customer service and talk about it. Good luck, Goose
  24. V7Goose
    That is only partially accurate for a 2nd gen. Although we still have a fuel pump, the tank is NOT below the carbs. A stuck float will cause a problem. But I still never turn mine off. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    Technically yes, you should turn the valve off when stopped. That is the only way to be sure a leaking needle valve or stuck float won't cause a cylinder to fill up with gas while it is sitting. Most modern bikes with gravity feed tanks now use vacuum activated petcocks, but those won't work with a fuel pump. Even though you "should" turn it of, I never do. I doubt that more than one person in a hundred does. Good luck, Goose
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