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Saddle_Bag

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Everything posted by Saddle_Bag

  1. Saddle_Bag
    I'm going to order the 86 part. I hope MamaYamaha doesn't let me down. I'm hoping the same part, with a new number. If not, DOT 5???? joe
  2. Saddle_Bag
    MiCarl, I just got off of the phonewith a friend who has an 86 VR. He did a quick measure and thinks his resevoir is the same size as mine. He said his master cylinder is a larger size but all the rest is the same. I checked the parts list and they carry different numbers. Do ya think mammy changed the numbers but only changed the mastercylinder in 86? joe
  3. Saddle_Bag
    The thing had been push in and kinda twisted. I have it on the deck in the sun trying to get it in some type of shape. I have a small piece of plexi glass sitting on it, but it is so twisted. I used plexi so that I could see the gasket area , I can't get it to even lay half way flat. According to Rich (Buckeye)the whole unit is not available. Even if it were , thats alot of mooula. How about contact cement to seal it in place? I don't know. Been one thing after another. joe
  4. Saddle_Bag
    Tech question, I have discovered that the rear master cylinder needed to be rebuilt. I decided to remove the reservoir and clean it out. I have never touch this but to add fluid as I bleed the system. There was crude in the tank, but I had one heck of a time getting the lid off of it. The previous owner, back in 1989 somewhere there abouts, took it apart and stuffed the rubber diaphram down into the reservoir. I don't think it will ever get back into a usable shape again. Is this needed for the system to function properly?? Oh, forgot to add, the reservoir was glued shut with something. I did manage to get it open, and I didn;t brake it. Do I need it? Or is there something that will work? I did see that there is a groove in the lid and the top of the reservoir for venting I guess and to allow the diaphram to expand as the fluid level drops. Will a thin rubber gasket work? joe
  5. Saddle_Bag
    I went with a progressive and I have never been happier. I forget what the shop wanted for a replacement, but progressive was cheaper and the ride is smoother. I had the shock set for medium ............. I guess midway thru the adjustment. I'm glad I did it. It is nice not waiting for the air shock or the line to go bad on a 20 plus year old bike. joe
  6. Saddle_Bag
    OR as it did on the one I had several years ago, remove the cotton element altogether. Spring for the kit. Once the cotton is gone steel mesh doesn't stop too much. joe
  7. Saddle_Bag
    I think the zinc in the crank case, well, some of it ends up in the combustion chamber. It gets burned and addhears to the metals in the cat, making it not functionas it was intended. With all of that, I got concerned when I read that zinc was being taken out. I started checkin and found out that the blue can/bottle of STP has zinc in it and an be added to the crankcase. Has anyone tried this?? STP{, I know was slick goop) , the people at STP recommeded it for motorcycles. The person I was e-mailing at STP said, with the removal of Zinc from oils, the addition of STP to the crankcase adds the Zinc back to the oil. I haven't tried it yet. I switched to diesel oil or motorcycle specific oil. It is an option. joe
  8. Saddle_Bag
    Mr Slayer, I didn't follow, but is the console display gone , or is it still on the market?? I'm also interested in the chrome pieces for the windshield. Thanks for the time. joe (Saddle_Bag)
  9. Saddle_Bag
    My 84 is in the garage with all the plastic off, If I knew what a gussett was I'd look. I'd like a copy of this book when it is done. joe
  10. Saddle_Bag
    Have you tried Buckeye Performance. He sells a lot of yamaha parts and you get a discount because he is a member. buckeyeperformance.com I have ordered from him before and will in the future. Give him a try, his phone is on the website, along with his e-mail address. joe
  11. Saddle_Bag
    A little more on how is it broken??? joe
  12. Saddle_Bag
    Ok, put both the brake switch and the side stand switch in. My question, is the side stand switch tied into the signal fuse? With the old switch in place, I had no display and was able to drive the bike with the side stand down. The display remained blank. With the new switch in place, I pulled the signal fuse and started the bike. The display was still blank. With the side stand down, I pulled the clutch and put the bike in first. The display lite and the computer ran thru the start up mode and the side stand light remained on. Is this an indicator of a bad side stand switch? I have ridden the bike for about 20 min. and the fuse has not blown yet. Really looks odd, riding with all the plastic off. joe
  13. Saddle_Bag
    Both are in, Rainin............... Won't know til tomorrow if I did any good or not. Does anyone know How to test the side stand switch??? There is some dark discoloration on the base, in what appears to be some type of hardened sealant. The new one is milky white. joe
  14. Saddle_Bag
    I re-checked the wiring from front to back , and rewrapped three bundles in the area of the tripple tree that come close to the stainless steel brake line to the left front. I have concerns with two switches, the left hand brake switch and the side stand switch. The brake switch causes the dash lights to dim noticibly went pulled, and the last fuse that went caused the engine to stall (like the side stand was put down). I'm planning on replacing both switches today. Cheap up grade for two 20+ year old electrical parts. joe
  15. Saddle_Bag
    Ditto above. I'm not sure if the Star Washer has those type of problems associated with it, but if the clutch checks out , it might be something to look into. joe
  16. Saddle_Bag
    Sorry, when the fuse is intact, the side stand switch works. joe
  17. Saddle_Bag
    Yep, When the fuse blows the display on the dash is blank. The side stand switch does not function. I can move the bike with it in gear and the side stand down. I have no turn signals and no brake lights. Tail lights work and the front running lights work. joe
  18. Saddle_Bag
    Neil, I was kinda hopin you would chime in. I started last week and removed all wires that feed the aux lights . The front bumper and rear bumper lights look good but all the make shift wiring has been pulled and the lights are out for now. It will be winter project to re-wire all of them. The front handle bar brake light switch causes the dash lights to dim , not alot but very noticeable. Electrical problems are a pain. joe
  19. Saddle_Bag
    I also thought it was weird that the last time the fuse blew, the motor stopped. Times before, if the fuse blew, the kick stand switch didn't work. If that fuse blew, I could start the bike and ride it with the kick stand down. I caught this moving the bike thru a parking lot, looking for a spot to pull the cover and replace one of many fuses that has blown. I thought because the motor stopped, the switch might be a nice place to start. I'm going into it tomorrow, just got back from the beach for the 4th. Any thoughts on the kick stand switch be the problem??? I have pulled the seat, the tail light assembly and the head light connection, and have not found any bare wires. I really hate thinking about cutting into the bundles of wires along the frame for a short. joe
  20. Saddle_Bag
    Fuse holder appear to be OK. I am beginning to look closer at the brake light switches top and bottom, and because the last time the motor quit when the fuse blew, the kick stand switch. Anyone have problems with these things, or am I on a goose chase. joe
  21. Saddle_Bag
    At my wits end, I had an issue a while back with a short in an aux light. The stainless steel brake line rubbed thru the insulation and shorted out, blowing the "signal" fuse. I corrected the problem and repaired /replaced the wire. I removed the wiringbut left the lights in place to be rewired maybe in the fall. Out of the clear blue, the fuse starts blowing again, taking out the brake lights ,dash and turn signals. It would happen coming to a stop or sitting with the brakes on. I checked the brake wiring. I thought I had it down to the brake light switch. I disconnected one and drove it and then disconnected the other. The fuse, number 9 so-far, held. I started the bike and began to back out of the garage. With no brake applied, the fuse blew and the bike stopped running. It would restart and run. Any thoughts?? joe
  22. Saddle_Bag
    I got them for my 84 Standard. I didn't use there glue, I used black silicon gasket material. They are on good and tight. Also check the "Throttle Boss", that attaches to the base of the grip. It allows you to rest your hand on it and it works like a throttle lock. PoorMans cruise control. joe
  23. Saddle_Bag
    Make the filter pink and it looks like my K & N. Is it a paper filter or oil??? joe
  24. Saddle_Bag
    I have been battling a slow leak in my front tire, since I replaced the tire several months ago. I discovered that air was leaking out of the base of the valve stem. I took it to a local shop and they replaced the valve stem and put it back together. They told me the inside of the rim was pitted because of the tire sealer I was using. I have used ride-on for several years. The repaired tire stayed good for about a week and flat again. I managed to get it to my regular shop in PA. I watched the tech break the tire down and then the fun of scraping out this white funky stuff from the inside of the rim. It appeared that it had fused itself to the rim. He tried washing the stuff off but it didn't work. He ended up using a wire brush wheel. The Tech was able to clean it good enough to hold air. I know people get a bit testy when you badmouth Ride-On, I just know what the inside looked like after a few years of having the stuff in there. You just have to decide for yourself to use it, or not. To have a sense of security the it will keep your tire inflated, or knowing that you might have to replace the wheel the next tire change. joe
  25. Saddle_Bag
    A lot of people and Big Pictures.
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