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Saddle_Bag

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Everything posted by Saddle_Bag

  1. Saddle_Bag
    I think the story was started by people who make and sell batteries. I have used my batterytender for a long time and has saved a lot of money on replacement batteries. joe
  2. Saddle_Bag
    I tried putting a ski on the front but the back of the bike sank. Naugh, was at my favorite Yamaha shop and the mechanic and I were talking. He asked me if I had ever tried it, I said no. I told him I use Seafoam, he told me that this "Ringfree" is much better, but for the price it had to be D--- Good, I told him. I'm sold on Seafoam but this ring free. Well I could feel it work as I was driving home from Gettysburg. 50 miles and the pep was noticible. Driving along I could hear it smooth out. It accelerated like never before. The old girl always gives me the old 2nd try when starting. Well this is gone. If not for the price I might switch. I was just wondering if anyone else had tried it . joe
  3. Saddle_Bag
    Has anyone ever tried a product called Ringfree. It is packaged by yamaha and is kinda on the expensive side??? joe
  4. Saddle_Bag
    I told you, and guess what? You don't have to put air in it and there is no air to leak out. I thought about moving up to at least something in the 90's..... but after the shock upgrade and some grease back there. I'm a first Gen Do-or-die. I'm riden it till they make it into a coffee table. joe
  5. Saddle_Bag
    I followed what he said, but my finger don't do electrical that good. Do I go into the horn button, or open the the covered cable leading to the button. I assume the power goes in and then I guess it comes out and goes to the horns?? Does the bike have a relay already that I can replace? I , be the dunce in this area think there is no relay now??? Step by step instructions would help, I always think I going to fry something when I get into electrical stuff. joe
  6. Saddle_Bag
    I reread some of the previous post . So. I ran the leads to the horn connections and managed to push the horn button and got a consistant 5.9 volts.
  7. Saddle_Bag
    I guess,I needed to add that the engine was not running, but the battery tender was still hooked up. I did check the voltage across the battery, this was 12.8 volts. joe
  8. Saddle_Bag
    Alright, Problem........... I put a digital volt meter on it. I took the ground back to the battery. After hooking it up to the horn and the negative on the battery and then pushed the horn button. The voltage , 9.5 volts. Now what???joe
  9. Saddle_Bag
    If there is a plus and minus for the horn connections, does it matter how the horn is hooked up (plus to plus) or are the horns like a light bulb ( it will work any way you hook it up)??? joe
  10. Saddle_Bag
    I used two fans, but I like the heat. The hotter I get the quicker the good words fly out. The words that get bleeped on those reality shows on TV. What I did was put the thin pieces of metal that originally held the horns on the outside of the light/horn brackets. I ran an additional ground from the back of the horn to the frame. The horns worked better but now they occilate. I sprayed connector cleaner into the horn button and stange things started happening. Sometimes the horns would work, other times the button would stick. How would you use a meter to check the voltage?. The horn lead to ground or thru the two horn leads??? I do think thatI have a bad switch or very dirty. joe
  11. Saddle_Bag
    Spending the day in my 96 degree garage with all this stuff to check. Thanks to all, I'll keep you advised. joe
  12. Saddle_Bag
    Calperin, I have the brackets the I bought from Squid. Can I put the thin metal pieces under the horn and still use them on the squid bracket???Why is the bracket not allowing the horns to work??? joe
  13. Saddle_Bag
    I guess I need an electrical wizard here. Horns we barely working. I tried adjusting the screw on the back, nuttin worked. I purchased two new units, described by the manufacturer as loud and annoying, they even came with ear plugs. Cleaned up all the connections , and put them on. They work, not annoying and not loud. The headlight does dim when you push the button. I tried spraying the horn button with cleaner(contact ) , still the same. Help................... joe
  14. Saddle_Bag
    My brother was able to temporarily fix his wobble but by pulling the tab (locking tab) locking the adjuster nuts together, it broke off and flew across the garage. Not real happy, but he'll get over it. He is looking into the Faber or ferber fix, what ever it is called. He thanks you all for the imput. joe
  15. Saddle_Bag
    Oh, all of the above and make sure to store in a dry place. A ring of light rust around the top of the cylinders could hold it very tight when you go to install later. joe
  16. Saddle_Bag
    Guys, you are great. The picture was the thing. That is, what I was looking at up under the bars. I called him and told him I was forwarding the other site and the rest of the info. I will thank you for him in advance. With his front end wobble I told him to limit his riding until we dug a little further in to it. If he didn't live in the mountains of PA he could take it to a shop and get it looked at. I said sit tight , I'll check with the VR guys for help. Thanks again, Saddle_Bag (joe)
  17. Saddle_Bag
    This site has the most knowledgible people (How's this for suckin up), I'm hopin someone can help my brother. He has a 2003 V-Max. I rode it this past weekend and boy does it have front end wobble. I attempted to tighten the nut at the trippletree and discovered a locking shim down through the two big nuts. Am I going to have to remove the Handle bars and the top of the tree, to tighten up the front end??? This shim is a small square that fits in the slots of the two big nuts, and sits in there up and down, locking them together. Help! Saddle_Bag
  18. Saddle_Bag
    As spray cleaners go it's OK. A sponge and bucket works for me better. joe
  19. Saddle_Bag
    I don't rotate anymore, putting the studded winter tire on the front cuts down on the milage.
  20. Saddle_Bag
    A short time ago someone posted a thread and gave a site to order a digital voltmeter. I tried to order but the site was down or I did something wrong. Does anyone recall who posted it or the site address??? I want something other than the guage on my 84. Thanks guys Saddle_Bag ( joe)
  21. Saddle_Bag
    I'm not sure where and or in what thread, but I do recall that someone mentioned the addition of a digital voltmeter to their VR. A site was included. I tried the site and attempted to purchase one of these voltmeters. When I hit the purchase key I got booted out. Could I get a recheck from someone on this site, so that I might try it again. I' thinking that the site was down. Thanks for the help.
  22. Saddle_Bag
    I tried the Castrol 15-w40 diesel for the first time this past Fall. Price and availability , two big selling points. My 84 liked it as well.
  23. Saddle_Bag
    I didn't follow you... Is this a Standard "83, with intagrated brakes?? If it is under the handle bar up under the fairing is a brake line connection. If you pump the brake peddle and crack open the brake line. Air should come out. Check the fluid level and do it again. Not a hard thing to do "one man style". Pump the brakes again ( forgot , keep pressure on the peddle) and open the line again. I put a weight on the brake peddle. Don't take the line off, just loosen till air or fluid comes out, and then retighten. Keep it up till only fluid comes out. Check thre fluid level, and check the brake for a mushey feel. I forget what year they installed a bleeder at this junction, but had the same problem with my '84. Good Luck.
  24. Saddle_Bag
    Mop and glow, Who da thunk..... Looks great.
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