LilBeaver
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Everything posted by LilBeaver
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Lookin' forward to meeting everyone tomorrow (and seeing the clutch install in action as well as the gauges ; not to mention getting this silly bolt out) I'll plan on getting up there sometime between 12 and 1 (I'll be hitting the road between 9 and 10 and I am anticipating about a 3 hr drive). See ya'll tomorrow!
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This is not true on ALL ventures. It is standard on the US and Canada bikes but not the Australian or European ones. I don't know about other countries, but I do know those for sure. Looks like you've got some help Annie
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CB unit ONLY is $735.79, OEM. Used from Pinwall, if you can find them, go for around 300. That does not include any other mounting that would be necessary. IF there is any truth to this at all, where they would have taken one from the bike to repair another, the dealership probably shorted Yamaha on a warranty job; but who knows. Bottom line, either find a new dealer or give another salesperson a try and see what happens. If you want a definitive test, go back to the dealership, have them put the key in the bike, turn it to the ACC position and push the CB button on the radio control and see what happens... Maybe you'll surprise them
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:clap2: Congrats!! I've been mapping out a lot of routes and have found the same thing... I find it amazing how far the SS can take you.
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At least you will know how fast you WERE going though!
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It is a 6mm bolt - these taps should be fine
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Yea - it is a 7-8 mm head that is round and flush up against the washer that is there. I couldn't get pliers or vice grips to hang on to it... As for the tap - I presume Ponch will have the right size, and if not, I can just run out on Saturday to get the correct size. Thanks though!
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Cool! Looks good (Side question - is that you son's sportster in the background there?)
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Haha - I'd hope that everyone knows we all are just kidding about applying heat to this puppy to get it out -- but good check (just in case)
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Okay, some clarification would be helpful here. You say the intercom does not work. Do you mean that: 1) Only the intercom does not work but you can get radio through the headset and talk through the CB 2) Nothing works through the driver headset including the mic for the CB, radio though the speaker, and talking to the passenger 3) Some combination of these that I have not listed. Have you checked the volume for each (IC volume when you push 'select' on the handlebar control) and the rear volume control on the arm rest. Next thing I would check would be the connections under the passenger seat (it is most likely NOT this one since you say the passenger one works fine, but it is easy to get to so it cannot hurt) then the connections under the front fairing. I believe the cable for the driver is marked with Red tape (but you can double check for your self when you get there) and the passenger one is marked with white tape. On these connectors inside the fairing, push the driver connectors together (as if you were plugging it in) firmly and pay attention to see if you feel any slack in the connector. If you feel slack, it is likely that was the culprit. Test to see if you have regained operation. Regardless of whether you have fixed your problem or not (or felt slack in the connector), you may as well go ahead and unplug then reconnect each connector a few times (to help clean off any accumulated corrosion), then spray with electrical contact cleaner (let dry appropriately/blow out with compressed air), then apply some dielectric grease on each and reconnect and then test your system. If you still have not fixed your problem then the next thing I would do is go ahead and check for electrical continuity between the ends of the driver cable. That is, take an ohm meter on a low range resistance setting and carefully probe each respective end of the cable to see if you have continuity between the ends of the cable where you should and do not have continuity across pins that you should not. If you find a short in the cable or that you do not have continuity through lines that you should then you have yourself a bad cable. If you find that the cable appears to be in working order, you probably need a new radio unit . To be clear, the part that I am talking about is the unit that is under the front fairing that has the cables coming out the right side of the bike (when sitting on it, the side that your right hand would be on if you had your hands on the bars). If everything else is functional, it is likely just a loose connection under the fairing as the motion of the bars pull on those connectors and they work them selves loose over time. Hope this helps, Good luck!!
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Sounds good.
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Thanks, I tried something similar to these (just a different brand) and it didn't work. Wow, now there is a neat idea. For this application though there is no way I'd be able to get it to work short of laying the bike down on its side... I'll definitely have to remember this though for future applications.
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Information on Carb Heaters
LilBeaver replied to V7Goose's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Goose, you beat me to it. Since things were cooling off, I was going to rig something up to let me check this as well. Good info, thanks for sharing! -
Some Tips on Changing the 2nd Gen Coolant
LilBeaver replied to V7Goose's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
My main concern here in west Texas would be the fact that the water is so darn hard. The last thing I would want in my cooling system is a flaky build up of sodium and whatever else is in the water here. I know my faucets and stuff corrode ridiculously fast thanks to the water so personally I don't think I would want to run that risk inside my bike. -
Yea, but don't worry - my insurance is all paid up and I could use a bigger garage. :whistling:
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Haha - my thoughts EXACTLY!
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Good to know. I tried with no luck... I ended up mangling the head even more... This is what I tried first when I cut the slots. I'm going to take a gander tomorrow as to what is available around here (if I can find something good enough to get the job done then I'll go with that and call it good; if I cannot find something I may send Earl a PM.) Yea; I considered this too... With as much as I love taking bolts out that way, I think I'll give this whole drill and tap thing a chance first. But like you said, if all else fails... *insert smiley with torch*
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The only way I can do this is if I bend the tank support - and even then, I'm not sure I'd be able to get it off... I had thought about this and I'm not ready to do that just yet. Thanks
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I guess if you don't mind, that'll work for me I've drilled stuff out before, but never needed to use a tap... What kind of tools should I bring?
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Earl: Thanks a lot! I may take you up on this - I'll poke around here a little bit to see if I can find what I need first and I'll let you know. Thanks again, - Rick
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Alrighty... Sounds like I need to find a tap, some reverse threaded drill bits, and a sharp punch. Rick: The head is right up against the washer, there is no way I could get anything in between them. Thanks folks! Hopefully one of these methods will work...
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I was hoping to avoid this, as I would like to be able to re-use that bolt hole to secure the tank when reinstalled...
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Thanks for the suggestions! The head of the screw doesn't seem to be strong enough for this... This is a great idea; although I don't have access to a welder... hmmm... I'll try this next. Yup - this was actually the second kind I tried. The first was the kind that you drill into the bolt and then beat in the tool and try to back it out. For these the head was just too soft. They just spun it and didn't grab Thanks everyone... If anyone else has any other thoughts, I'm still working on this...
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So I got my new fuel sending unit and went to install it and found that when I was trying to take my tank off, like I have done many times already, a head of one of the hex head bolt/screw that goes in the front of the tank has been rounded out. I don't know how it happend, when I put it back together last time I didn't notice any slop or anything but when I went to loosen it up, I just spun round and round. I have tried: 1) vice grips and pliers - nothing will grab onto that round head. 2) Easy-out/screw extractors (a few different types including the kind you drill into the screw and then back out and the kind that is supposed to grab onto the head and back it out) none worked - the head of the screw just didn't grab like it should. 3) take grinder and cut slots into the head suitable for a flat head screwdriver - did not work; as I try to use the screw driver to back the bolt out it just breaks the head up even more. I had thought about cutting the head of the bolt off completely and then try to maneuver the tank support out and over it (then I could get the bolt out because I would be able to grip it), but I don't think there is enough play in the tank to do that (as it would have to go ~1 inch to one side and it is just too tight of a fit). I am just plumb out of ideas - any thoughts would be appreciated.
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Light came on dash!
LilBeaver replied to Danimal's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Lower left is Oil Level, lower right is coolant temp warning. Both of them are red. They only come on when you crank the motor (not when you turn the key to the on position). Like others have said: Check your oil level and some have experienced this light coming on under hard acceleration due to the location of the sensor