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Everything posted by LilBeaver
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Driver Backrest
LilBeaver replied to mmkleine's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
I put a Utopia on mine and do not recall having to drill to enlarge the holes... But, if one would have to, it really isn't that big of a deal. The holes have little plugs in them as is, so don't let that discourage you from the Utopia. By the way, I've been real happy with mine and it has done WONDERS for my back. -
Rear Shock Replacement
LilBeaver replied to Donnie1's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
You're welcome. And yes, the handling and ride characteristics after putting the new shock on exceeded my expectations. However, my expectations were quite low since 2.5 months ago when my shock puked, I didn't think that I noticed much of a difference in ride quality and handling, but since I ride every day, I may have just been getting used to it. I don't know if that helps or not and your findings may vary . -
Rear Shock Replacement
LilBeaver replied to Donnie1's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Works Performance 'UltraSport' series shock. :mo money: -
Rear Shock Replacement
LilBeaver replied to Donnie1's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Yea, it's pretty amazing. I had figured the ride would be a little better... Boy was I wrong. You folks in the process of getting yours replaced are in for a real treat! -
Of the couple thousand miles I've put on in that area, it is terrible. All of those curves and elevation changes get in the way of the flat and straight roads! Kidding aside, I've got some family in that area (one outside of Nashville and the other south of Louisville) and it IS a great place to be. Congrats on the transfer
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Rear Shock Replacement
LilBeaver replied to Donnie1's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
For what it is worth, I just did mine without removing the rear wheel and I would have been done in 45 minutes (including setup and clean up) if my replacement fit like it was supposed to. First, you need to remove the nut that holds the valve stem in place for putting air in the shock. I believe it was a 14mm nut - but I do not recall exactly. the plastic cap surrounding the air filler valve just pops off and the nut is exposed - so it is an easy do. The rear shock is held into place with 2 bolts, one up top and one at the bottom. Removing the right side passenger floorboard and the plastic cover will allow you to see the top bolt & nut. I used a 17mm regular depth socket, universal and a decent length extension to get to the nut. The head of the bolt is held in place with to flange deals that are on the other side, so you do not have to worry about holding the other side with a wrench. The bottom one is visible and very accessible from the bottom of the bike. You WILL need to hold the bottom bolt while you loosen the nut since there is nothing that holds the bolt head in place. But again, it is very easily accessible so there should be no problem getting to it. I jacked my bike up so the rear tire was just barely touching the ground and it was just about perfect for being lined up to get everything out and in as necessary. I've attached a few pictures to [hopefully] help you. If you want more detail, let me know - I don't know if there is a write-up some where or not, but I'd be happy to give you the quick and dirty explanation if necessary. -
Elecrical problem? Any Ideas?
LilBeaver replied to WAC1972's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Well there you go. If it read somewhere between 13.5V and 14V while the bike was revved, then you are in good shape and probably do not need to do anything further. If you do end up having the reg/rec off when you change your oil, just take a peek at the harness to make sure there is no sign of burn marks or corrosion. If it is clean, then I'd put it back on and not worry about it. Batteries to go bad from time to time. Glad it worked out and was rather straight forward!! -
Yea, yours looks fine to me. What makes you think that it doesn't? I have attached pics of mine for comparison. Note that my flash washed out the orange back-light. 1) Radio on 2) Radio on changing volume 3) CB on 4) CB on changing volume
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Elecrical problem? Any Ideas?
LilBeaver replied to WAC1972's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
You are very welcome my friend. I'm glad that you learned something from this! -
American flag upside down at CALIFORNIA HS
LilBeaver replied to Ferrantelli's topic in Watering Hole
Our border patrol, customs and immigration enforcement, etc work dam hard and from the few that I have met and know personally are WAY over-worked, underpaid, understaffed and deal with stuff that I would have never expected unless actually talking with them. While I'll agree that there are some issues with the legislature, let us not forget those that are actually patrolling the borders and working hard every day to do their part in protecting our borders. I don't know if we have any on here, but, regardless I sure appreciate all of the hard work they do, day in and day out. Just my -
I'm a little confused. You say that you have to have your 'radio' volume turned up to get CB reception? The CB and the 'radio' (tape, aux, AM/FM radio, etc. -- basically the audio) have separate volume controls. To adjust the CB volume, push the CB button and then turn the knob. You will see a little 'C' in the lower left corner of the display while you are changing the CB volume. to go back to set the audio volume just push the 'audio' button on the controller. I find that when I switch from the headsets to the speakers, I have a difference of maybe 4 or 5 volume numbers (higher for when in the speakers). I usually have the CB volume set to around 12 and the radio (coming through the speakers) somewhere between 13 and 15 depending on how strong the wind is as well as how good of reception I have from the source. I don't know if this is what your issue is or not. If it isn't then we can revisit some other options.
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Yikes! - Glad you are [mostly] okay!!
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Elecrical problem? Any Ideas?
LilBeaver replied to WAC1972's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
There you go! It probably wouldn't hurt to go ahead and do the voltage test (with the bike running) once you get the new battery charged up and installed - just to make sure the stator and reg/rect unit is okay, and check you grounds if you have not done so already. The 'freaking out' of your dash lights and such is not something that would normally happen if it was just the battery, however, I am not saying that it isn't possible... Just a thought if you get some time and to make sure you've got the problem solved and not just treated a symptom. -
Glad you enjoyed your stay! LOL. Well, maybe you were trying to keep me from getting COMMITED... oh wait... maybe not By the way, we rode another 300 miles today. :duck: The 100+ heat was a little intense, but we got ice cream so it was all good. She's signed up for a MSF class and we're going bike looking next week.
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Streets and trips can interface with the GPS to read to the computer 'where you are at' but you cannot do any route loading or whatever to the GPS from it. It is purely used as a sensor.
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Thanks Tom and Scott - that does make me feel a little better, and it sort of saved me from calling and giving them an ear full about this. I ended up taking the swing arm completely off (greased the bearings while I had it all apart) and worked with it up on the 'work-bench'. After some grinding, some beating, and a LOT of time, I got it on. I am pretty disappointed that it didn't just slide on, but I suppose I'll take that over having problems with that connection being too sloppy. Now but need to go out and get a nut to replace the one that holds the links to the swing arm. I was torquing it to the recommended value and the threads just sheered right off when I was about 1/4 of the way there. Now off to go get that nut, then back to make the final adjustments and the test ride. I sure hope that it rides okay and I don't feel that I'll want to send it back to have it done up again. Thanks again.
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So after hearing everyone say how wonderful these shocks are, 2 months ago I held my nose and placed my order. I was all ready for the 'quick' change out. Old shock off in about 15 minutes (including time to rearrange crap in the garage and get bike up on jack) and as I am lining up the new shock to put it in its place I try to slide the bottom over the part on the swing arm where it is supposed to connect and what do I find? Hmmm. The U part of the bottom of the shock is too small!!! So. I take a deep breath and get the bolt through the top one, thinking I just don't have it lined up quite right or something and now that I've got it all in place (except for the bottom) I am pretty sure that it is just too small. Has any one else run into this while installing their shock? 7 Weeks and 700 bucks later (not to mention the already questionable customer service from the guy that I put my order in with - but that is a different story for a different day) - and this is what I have. I am NOT a happy camper. I hope I am just doing something wrong though... Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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Elecrical problem? Any Ideas?
LilBeaver replied to WAC1972's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
:think: From what he posted here (below), I believe that he DID do what you suggested above. A terminal voltage reading with the battery not connected to anything would have been helpful too, but by him taking the battery somewhere to get it tested, will be conclusive. Good, this ought to be quite conclusive. The other thing that I would do at this point (based on what you had described about your measurement dropping to 6V when you took the jumper cables off and the bike was still [sort of] running) is a quick resistance measurement of the stator. This can be done at the regulator/rectifier plug or at the wire harness that comes directly out of the stator. On the RSV it is just below the fuel filter, in front of the battery box - but I couldn't tell you where it is on your bike. Keep us posted on what you find (which I presume sort of goes without saying...) -
I do appreciate the input and despite the overall [playful] tone of many of the posts in this thread, I do intend on treading very lightly here. I do not intend, nor did I intend on anything other than being a friend (especially since we work together and of course, now that I know she has/had a boyfriend). I also decided that I would not invite her on anything until I knew for sure what was going on with this dude. The last thing I would want is something to happen to her (by the boyfriend) as a result of our friendship - and until I find out more about what is actually going on, this IS something that has been in the back of my mind for some time now and will handle appropriately. I do have a few years of LEO experience, so I do know (first hand) that some people out there are, for lack of a better description, simply crazy. Thank you for speaking up I really do appreciate the concern and have taken this seriously. So, while things simmer down - I'm going to go burn some more fuel Incidentally from next Monday until 15/Aug, I will only be home for a grand total of about 5 days (thanks to work), so there really won't be any time to take her out - even if she wanted to... Thanks again, I do appreciate your concern
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?!?!?!?!?!?!?!??!? That is sad... Although I suppose I cannot say that I am all that surprised.
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Elecrical problem? Any Ideas?
LilBeaver replied to WAC1972's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
This is actually is not true all the time. It may happen, but if it doesn't it does not necessarily mean that something is wrong. At idle, the stator will not generate enough power to actually charge up the system, so it is possible (and quite likely) that you will get a reading that is, in fact, lower than 13.8V at idle or very low revs. This is why for an effective test of the charging system one must rev above idle. Explanation: This happens because a stator generates electricity by exploiting what is known as Faraday's law. That is curl(E)=-dB/dt, or basically - one of two possible sources of an electric field is the result of a time varying magnetic field. In the case of the stator, there are several wires wrapped in such a fashion to enclose a rotating magnet. The rotation of the magnet is tied to the revolution of the engine. I'll spare the rest of the Physics lecture, unless someone really wants to know more. While the magnet in the stator rotates faster, more current is induced in the surrounding wires, which routes through the regulator/rectifier (turns AC to DC and dumps, to ground, any 'extra' generated electricity that the bike does not need). Therefore you will reach a 'saturation' value (in our case ~13.8V) at which point despite an increase in the speed of which the magnet is rotating, if measured in the circuit AFTER a properly functioning rectifier/regulator unit, one will not read a value any higher than 13.8V. Thusly, if you do read something significantly higher than 13.8V, then you can be pretty confident that something is not functioning properly within the regulator/rectifier unit (either the unit is defective, or there is a bad connection to ground). I'll stop here, unless there is something else that someone would like clarified. I would also direct attention to the thread that I referred to above, as much of this information has already been documented. -
Check the current Wisconsin vehicle codes manual. These are available at your local library, probably online, or you could stop at your neighborhood police station and ask them. They are written down, it is just a matter of looking them up. If you have trouble finding it, let me know - I am still pretty good friends with some of Wisconsin's finest, I could put a call in and see for you.