Angelo
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Posts
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Everything posted by Angelo
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Almost everyone uses Freightliner chassis and Cummings engines with Allison transmissions so you won't have much choice there. Now depending on price point you are looking at, some companies have Freightliner build specific chassis for them. Winnebago has them build the Maxum chassis, Tiffin has an active ride suspension like your newer high end cars use. Monaco prior to going out of business had one of the best systems in the industry, 8 air bags at the corners and they bragged about it being the one motorhome that you could not roll over during high speed maneuvers. If you can get a good deal on one of the above you will be happy going forward or as happy as an RV can make you. Fleetwood has some neat floor plans and they are one of the top selling but their quality control is lacking and I say that from the stand point of selling them and seeing some issues first hand. The one advantage of Fleetwood is that you get a lot of coach for the money. I personally try to push people toward Winnebago and Tiffin, those two have been the same companies since conception and make enough money from outside the RV industry to keep going and not have to worry about going out of business. -
The kind that came on my 99 RSV.
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I sell motorhomes for a living and I get a lot of people that are just starting to look and not sure what to buy. I'll tell you this, spend some time in a few of them until you can be petty sure of a layout you will be most comfortable with. After that pay attention to storage capacity inside and out, specifically where you'll keep your every day items. The most common RV I sell to people trying to replace one they have had for less than a year is one with more storage. After you you find the right layout, find the right manufacturer. There is so much crap on the market that people frequently buy something because of the looks and don't realize what trouble they just got themselves into. If they have gone out of business recently, filed bankruptcy or been "acquired" by someone, stay clear. Big comfortable diesel with as much room and power as you can get for the money you're willing to spend. If you find something you think you like, send me a message and I'll look up values for you and let you know about what you should be spending on it.
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No kidding, how do you pick every game wrong. You would have a better chance at winning the lottery than missing all of those, of course betting against my Pats was your first mistake.
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I enjoyed that game very, very much. Looking forward to seeing the Pats play down here in the Super Bowl.
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Ahhhh,, the summer of 14,,, ADVENTURE SERVED UP GORMET STYLE!!!!
Angelo replied to cowpuc's topic in Watering Hole
Hurry up and finish the story, the anticipation is killing me. -
Replace them, they are cheap. Chevrolet has a 3 step torque sequence on those heads as opposed to a degree after torque, but the concept is the same, one time use. You definitely want those heads pressure checked, almost always have to have them repaired. Like I said above, Carquest has good machine shops and they are usually one of the cheaper places to go.
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I have done that job so many times I don't care to count. Make sure you send the heads into get checked out. Carquest usually has a machine shop on site that can do the work and for those heads it will be somewhere around $80-100 per head. They will install the new seals and everything for you as well as check for cracks/warpage. For the head bolts, do not reuse them. I have had to redo more than a few head jobs for guys that tried to save money on that part. If you pay more than $60 for the bolts you are paying too much. For cleaning the engine, any of your parts stores will have cans of engine flush available. It's cheap and you won't have to worry about possible damage to any of the bearing surfaces. You most likely have oil in the coolant as well even if you don't see it, so make sure you drain the entire cooling system and run a cleaner (also available at your parts store) with just water for 15-20 minutes after it reaches operating temperature, then drain and fill with coolant.
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I like the Jedi mind trick you got going there. Well played Sir, well played.
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As long as that stuff stays 2 hours north or south of me I could care less. What I don't like is not being able to ride my bike because of broken parts. I'm taking my recent run of bad luck as Karma for teasing you fine gentleman about you having to park your bikes for the season, so from here on out I'll let my signature do the talking for me.
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Go Patriots!!!!!!!!!!
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After my recent broken parts on my bike I've learned not to make fun of you guys for that but it is the reason I moved back to Arizona.
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Top right hit the + symbol to the right of the address bar and you can open a new page
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I see, my pictures weren't good enough;)
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My thoughts exactly.
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I'm not a gambler, I'm just too cheap to try to enjoy it like almost everyone I work with. That being said, the Cardinals just won me $10 for a bet a friend bullied me into making at the beginning of the season. He bet me that the Cardinals would make it further than the Patriots (that's my team) and with today's loss he lost.
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Thought I was being smart leaving it loose until I could confirm it was fixed but in this case it didn't bite me. Bolted it in place and still no charging voltage.
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Checked for voltage at the plug like you advised, only battery voltage there. Bought the stator from Stator Aftermarket Parts & Custom Stator Rebuilds I found his listings on Amazon and saved a few dollars though. He still has a couple posted there if you need one. Found that stupid connector under the bracket that mounts the coolant tank. Had to pull the left exhaust pipe to get access to the metal clamp that holds the wiring harness that comes up from under the bike. After you loosen that clamp, you can get enough movement (barley) to expose the connector.
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The footrests I understand, the handholds not so much.
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Got my bike all put back together with the new stator today, still no charging voltage at the battery. Pulled the connector off the R/R (was smart enough not to bolt it back in place) and checked for battery power, ground and voltage. I have everything at the connector now and charging voltage went up to 125 volts when I ran the idle up to ~4000 volts. Everything looks good stator side and with battery power and ground at the plug I have to assume the R/R is bad. Just looking for verification that I didn't miss something before I order one.
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On the lift I lost about a quart, so not bad at all. I finally found that damn connector for the stator. Had to pull the left side exhaust to get my hands in to where the wiring comes up from under the engine and it was tucked up under the bracket that holds the coolant tank. Had just enough length to get to the connector itself, should be fun reconnecting it.
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Or at least drive/fly one:banana:
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I changed the oil recently so I'd prefer to not if I can get away with it.
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Do you need to drain the oil before pulling the cover? I know there will be some oil lost when doing so, but how much is up there?
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Rear tire change.....what to do???
Angelo replied to Kettlinton's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
How do you get the axle bolt out without removing the muffler?