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Showing results for tags 'tire'.
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The tires on my bike are not the originals, those were runflats.These are fairly new, but not runflats. My owners manual says the tire pressure should be 36lbs. The sidewall of the tire says max load is like 638lbs at 41lbs of tire pressure. So which do you go by? Or should I set it somewhere in the middle???........Don
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Bike has been parked all winter. Discovered that the rear tire was almost flat (yet it was around 45lbs when I parked it). Checked the tire and noticed a piece of metal like a nail embedded into the tread. Haven't tested for a leak yet but will later tonight. No idea how long it might have been there but recall air pressure dropping about 10lbs over a 2 month time span last summer. The tire is good and is a Avon Venom-X so I really don't want to replace it yet. Can such a thing be fixed? We used to (and probably still do) put plugs in car tires. Can this be done on a m/c tire or what?
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What's the recommendation on how many miles to run between tire rotations front to back, you know, like we do on cars? Y'all do rotate your tires front to back periodically, don't you?
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Tried searching but guess I don't have the right term -- any suggestions on where we can buy the angled air valve for the front tire like we have on the rear ? Many thnx, DREBBIN
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Does anyone know what the shelf life of a tire should be? In other words should a tire still be sold if it has sat on a shelf for over 3or4 yrs? How long before they start to dry rot?
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Isn't there supposed to be a dot on the side of a tire indicating the light side of the tire that is supposed to be put next to the valve stem? I just ordered some Avons through SWMoto and they don't have any such dot. Now what? How should these be mounted?
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Just bought the HF tire changer w/ motorcycle adaptor today, going to put some widewhites on my '06 RSV this weekend. My question ..... is there enough clearance on the HF changer to leave the brake discs on the rims or do they need to come off? I was planning on carefully working around them. I haven't taken off my wheels yet but just looking at the changer it looks like it'll be very tight fit with the rotors on the rims. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, Larry
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Has anyone tried to modify and to attempt to use the on board air compressor for the forks,rear shock and as a possible tire inflator? Or is not up up to snuff like not enough air pressure?
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I have around 50,000 mile on my 02 Midnight. This year maintenance I will be removing the carburetors for cleaning, lubing and adjusting the steering, replacing the fuel filter, spark plugs (Iridium), rear breaks pads, new rear Avon tire, Air Filters, Clearview windshield and oil/filter. These part number and pricing may be some help. Yamaha Fuel Filter: 1FK-24560-10 $12.19 (Dealer) Spark Plug: "Iridium" NGK DPR8EIX-9 (2202) $9.99 each Total $39.96 (Dealer) Break Pads rear: EBC FA124HH (HH for heat) $21.19 (JC Whitney) Air Filters: K&N YA-1399 $82.20 (JC Whitney) Tire Avon Venom: 150/90HB-15 305321 $123.95 (Southwest Moto Tires) Clearview Windshield XXLarge: $135.00+shipping (Clearview Shields)
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I just bought a hand pump for checking automotive cooling systems for leaks and I think it could double as a Venture suspension or tire pump with some easy modifications. All that would be needed is a hose end that would thread on to a schrader valve (from an old bicycle tire pump) and a 60 lb. gauge. These pumps are well made from brass and would last a long time. They are a little large for taking along on the bike but it could be done. I got this one at Princess Automotive (Canada) for $59.95 and I'm sure Harbour Freight would probably sell the same one for much less in U.S. $$.
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I installed an AM-42 on rear Rim today. Easyiest tire install I ever did. Only took 5 min with two 10 inch tire irons. Did not have any trouble getting it to Seal. So far, so good.
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OK, I'm starting to wonder if it's just me or this problem is more wide spread than first thought. Some of you may remember me posting a few months ago about sidewall checking on the Avon Venom X AM41 tire I had on the '83VR. To make a long story short, Avon waranteed the tire. Now the replacement tire is starting to check, not as bad as the first tire, and I'm wondering if any other Avon Venom users are having or had the same problem with their Avons?? It's either I'm really screwing up somehow and doing something wrong, or this problem is more wide spread than first thought.
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Motorcycle Tire Information and Conversion Charts Basic Tire Information http://www.venturerider.org/tireinfo/motorc1.gif http://www.venturerider.org/tireinfo/motorc2.gif Break-In Period In order for your new tire to provide optimum performance, tires should be ridden very cautiously for the first 100 miles in order for the tread surface to be "Scuffed-In" and work properly. Directly after new tires are mounted, sudden acceleration, maximum braking and hard cornering must be avoided. This will allow the rider to adjust to the "feel" and handling characteristics of the new tire and for the new tire to be "scuffed-in" correctly in order to achieve optimum grip level. Conversion Charts http://www.venturerider.org/tireinfo/motorc3.gif http://www.venturerider.org/tireinfo/motorc4.gif http://www.venturerider.org/tireinfo/motorc5.gif http://www.venturerider.org/tireinfo/motorc6.gif http://www.venturerider.org/tireinfo/motorc7.gif Tires with 2.00, 2.25, & 2.50 nominal section widths are rated for 75 mph. Remember, tire safety requires proper care and use. WARNING: Only properly trained personnel should mount tires.
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and picks up a screw, gets plugged runs fine. However I am preparing for an Iron Butt sooo It seems as though Venom's are the most popular. I don't plan on down sizing the front tire (which is the plugged tire) the rear is a dunlap original. Should they both be changed at the same time because of different tred patterns?
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Interesting note from the Continental Tyre site on tire mileage: http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/motorcycle/img/void_uv.gifMileage A tyre which can achieve high mileage is an asset because a longer lifespan leads to lower costs. The mileage attained by motorcycle tyres and in particular that by the rear wheels of performance bikes cannot be measured in the same way as that of car or truck tyres. Because the motorcyles themselves weigh comparatively less they are able to accelerate faster and during this acceleration the rear tyre slips. This slipping leads to wear on the tyres. A pillion passenger whose weight is mainly placed on the rear tyre helps to prolong the life of the tyre. The rear wheel is pressed onto the road with more force, thereby reducing the amount of slipping. The tyre therefore lasts longer. Side note: Now that I've got everyone running Avon Venoms, I'm thinking of trying the Continentals! I find some of the information on their web site about the TK17 and new Milestone tires interesting. I need to get more information from them - they do not make the stock size for our front tire in the front tire design, but their fitment guide actually specifies to mount a rear tire on the front! First time I have seen this from a manufacturer. Anyone here run Continentals on their RSV? Which style? Your opinions? Thanx, Goose
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Attached are some pics of the new Venom X I mounted on the front of the '83VR a few months ago. I rode it lightly around town, and then about 750miles over a 4 day weekend at VWIII. I noticed a clunk when apply the front brake and while inspecting the caliper, play, and such, I ran into this on the side walls on the tire. I'd Venture to say there's about 1000miles on it since new. In Avon's defense the front tire pressure was about 10 pounds low when checked in Susanville, and I did ride it pretty hard while running up Hwy 395 after friday's group ride. Stopped for gas with Steve (hdhtr) and got a little carried away trying to catch up with the pack. My question is #1 can i expect this after running a tire low on pressure at high speeds.. 90+ in a couple of areas and #2 should I replace the tire or will it hold up?? I also noticed that on the sidewall the tire inflation should have been 50psi instead of the 40psi I thought was enuff. And should I just go ahead and bite the bullet and pick up a replacement?? Whatcha think???
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Lucky and Stupid. When you think about it, that is about the best you can hope for when stupid is part of the equation. So here's my story. I use my tires too long. Not intentionally, and I'm not proud of it, and for sure I'm not recommending it, but facts is facts. I can explain how it happened, but that doesn't make it right. Closer attention would have prevented it. The problem is that without a center stand, it is just such a pain to carefully rotate the tires and inspect them all the way around. When my tires get close to the wear bars, I THOUGHT I kept a pretty close eye on them. As some of you might know from my past posts, I ride a lot. I'm on the bike virtually every day, and I can often put a thousand or two miles on the bike between washing (when I really get down and inspect everything). So keeping a pretty close eye on the tires usually means I regularly take a look a the open part of the tread below the rear fender or on the front of the bike. I just figured that by looking at that section of the tire every few times I walk up to the bike, random chance would mean that I was seeing all of the tire within a reasonable time frame. Facts prove me wrong. Here's the condition I thought my Avon Venom rear tire was in at 14,000 miles: [ATTACH]802[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]803[/ATTACH] In these pictures you can clearly see the edge of the wear bar in the middle of the long tread groove that stretches all the way across the tire. The Venoms only have about three of these long grooves, so there are not a lot of places to check for the wear bars. Yes, I know that you are supposed to dump the tires when the wear bars first hit the surface, not when they are gone. My weakness is that I have always wanted to push them to the bottom of the wear bar. Gonna have to change that. When I had my bike in about a month ago for the shock to be replaced, the shop told me that the belts were showing on my rear tire! This was a shock to me, but sure enough, this is what I found when I put the bike on a stand and rotated the tire all the way around: [ATTACH]804[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]805[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]806[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]807[/ATTACH] So it seems that the majority of times I looked at the rear tire I either wasn't really paying attention, or I was seeing the section that still showed the wear bar! How did this happen? The answer is probably interesting, but incidental to my failure to properly inspect my tire often enough. That tire was mounted for me by my dealer as a favor to me after they had to re-do some work. It now seems to me that they mounted the tire and just left the old weights on the wheel from the previous tire. The section that was mostly worn through to the belts was about where the weights were, so the grossly out-of-balance section was being thrown harder against the road on each revolution, and the part that still showed the wear bar was the lightest part of the tire. So, lesson learned, right? Not hardly. I didn't want to let my bike sit while I waited for a new tire, so I mounted an old one that I had around for emergency use. This tire was just to the bottom of the wear bars and very flat, but I figured it was OK for a couple of weeks. And I watched it about the same as I had been watching the last tire! (Told you I was stupid - lesson not learned at all.) Well, at about the second weekend, when I was planing to change the tire, a short notice PGR mission came up, so I thought a while longer would be OK. This mission was over 100 miles away, and the return run was at high speed. All total, I guess I put close to 2,000 miles on this old tire. I'll cut to the chase here. When I pulled into my garage two days ago, I saw this showing on the back tire: [ATTACH]808[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]809[/ATTACH] Yikes! About half the tire has the center section worn through the tread layer with belts showing in a big section, and the other half just looks worn out. Bottom line is that I was very lucky that my negligence and assumptions about the tire condition could have turned very ugly but did not. I'd certainly like to think that I'll be doing closer full-tire inspections in the future, but only time will tell. I'm a bit chagrined that I wasn't watching that second tire closer after what I had just seen on the one before. I thought I'd subject myself to embarrassment and ridicule here because I survived this bit of stupidity only through sheer luck. Next time, if there is a next time for either me or someone else, that luck may not hold. If even one person looks at their tires a little closer, then this has been worth while. One last thought for you. As these pictures make completely evident, these modern tires do NOT have any rubber to spare under the last part of the tread. I have sectioned worn tires in years past, and they always had a thick layer of rubber left over the belts, but neither of these tires have that margin of safety. Don't push them too far! Ride safe, Goose
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How much affect does a rear tire have on the tracking and unstable feel of a bike? A LOT! Much more than I ever suspected. In another thread several weeks ago I reported that I had to take off my rear tire before I had a new one available. Because I ride every day, I decided to re-mount an old Brickstone rear tire that I had sitting around for emergency use. This tire was flat as the proverbial fritter and mostly bald, but I figured I could run it for a couple of weeks. I was absolutely shocked with how bad the bike handled! This thing started trying to weld itself into every groove and ridge on the road, and if there was a spot near a light where the asphalt was bubbled or rolled up from the heat and weight of the cars, the bike would pitch hard back and forth as it contacted the uneven surface. Going over a ridge of uneven pavement between lanes was actually scary. All of this attributed to just the BACK tire alone. Last night after work I finally decided I had to mount the new Avon rear tire. Today, the bike handles absolutely perfectly again! No more tracking, the rolled up asphalt is undetectable, and the bike makes the transition between uneven lanes with hardly a blip. My front tire is an Avon Venom MT90 with 16,000 miles on it - same tire I had on it yesterday when it handled so badly with that old Brickstone rear. Today with a new Avon Venom on the rear, that 16,000 mile Venom on the front is handling every bit as well as I remembered when I first mounted the Venoms. I suspect that the quick handling that we get from the MT90 size up front actually made the impact of that flat rear tire worse than it was when it was still in use with the original front tire. On another note, anyone who has run the stock Brickstones is undoubtedly familiar with the infamous howl they make as they wear. I can conclusively tell you that the flat rear tire is where that howl is coming from! As soon as I put that old tire back on, the howl was back with a vengeance any time the bike as not being held in a perfectly straight line. The slightest hint of a lean left or right would just make that tire wail! Stay tuned for the next phase of this impromptu experiment. In about a month, while that new Avon rear tire is still new, I am going to re-mount the old fat Brickstone front tire to see just what effect that tire alone has on the handling of the RSV. I'll let y'all know! Final bit of information for anyone who has hung in here this far - I use a Harbor Freight tire changer that makes mounting skins a breeze. The learning curve is minor - after about the third tire change, the operation is so smooth and easy that dismounting and mounting a tire is truly a 5 minute operation. If you want to do this work yourself, that tool pays for itself with the very first set of tires you change. For anyone in North Texas who is interested, I'm more than happy to let you come over and use mine s'long as you bring a six-pack with you! I can't supervise without a beer, ya know? Good luck, Goose
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Had a flat when I left work yesterday. Found a small whole, muscled it to Wal Mart next door to work and filled it up. Road home got up this morning and its still good. Tire was kind of Ify anyway, so I'm going to wait on the new one before I ride again. But for what its worth, if you have Ride-On in the tires and a way to inflate them when you get a puncture you can "RIDE-ON".
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I have usually changed my own tires using standard tire irons since the 70s. With this method, disk brakes don't really get in the way. However, I have recently started using a manual tire changing machine (from Harbor Freight). This works great, and the effort is much less than with tire irons, but so far I have only used it on my rear tire. Since the rear only has one disk and the wheel can be put in the changer with the disk down, it is not an issue. However, I am not sure how to deal with the dual-disk front wheel. Does any one here have experience using a manual tire changer with a dual-disk wheel? Do you have to remove one of the disks? Thanx! Goose
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Thanks to Cougar for this excellent write-up FYI- Picture's of Rear Tire Removal Well, With all the searches and Folks Changing out there REAR TIRE. I learned A Lot today from you guys! And I said to myself ** SELF ? ** why not try this and takes some pics for other folks? Ok, here go's... I did what most of you said ! I did remove the Bags Because I had a hard time getting that little part out for my new Bag Rails. So they were off and Thats when the light went off and figured I have these Brand new Michelin Commanders laying around so I went to work on this project today.. With a Few emails to Mr. FreeBird! I got the Job Done! (thanks) Then I went Ahead and removed Both Mufflers (tell ya why in a bit) http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_029.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_007.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_025.jpg Then I Used a 1 1/16" Socket and took the main bolt off http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_019.jpg Then Remove the Rear Brake Caliber and place it on the passenger foot rest. This is also a good time to loosen the pinch bolt on the right side. The axle will NOT slide out if you don't. http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_014.jpg Then undo the bolt for that swing arm thingy. http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_011.jpg Now this is were I was glad I did remove the Left side bag and Muffler Cuz I could not for the life of me get that darn MAIN AXLE BOLT out with out having to take my socket extension and hammer it out.. http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_003.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_010.jpg Here she comes! http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_005.jpg KEEP IN MIND THAT YOU PUT THIS WASHER BACK IN THE RIGHT ORDER WHEN PUTTING BACK TOGETHER! http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_008.jpg After the Shaft gets about half way is when I could pull the rest of they way on my own. http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_005.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_027.jpg Note: My bike was on a Lorin Lift. So What I did was have that rear tire about a half inch off the ground when I pulled that Axle. (worked great) http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_018.jpg Then I lifted just a bit more and pulled from the right side until the tire kinda fell on its own. http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_016.jpg Now the FUN PART! I just kept lifting http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_024.jpg MORE http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_026.jpg AND MORE http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_015.jpg AND MORE http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_017.jpg Man it was getting Scary! sheesh! http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_021.jpg Even with more room left the lift on my jack the tire Came right out! *VBS* PLOP! http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_004.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment.jpg Put back together in reverse order ~S~ I also did this as well. Took the main rear Diff off and there was no grease on the Splines. http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_013.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_020.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_002.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_022.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_009.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_012.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_028.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_006.jpg This is what my Rear Brake Pads look like at 5,100 miles. http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/thumbnails/attachment_023.jpg then I did the Front! (easy) And the lift kept the bike very stable even after the front Tire was removed.. I am impressed with the lift. When my tires get done being Mounted and Balanced I will go into the HUB and get that all greased up as well! (this was very simple after I got it all figured out and the help from reading what you Pro's had to say. Its just sometimes I need to SEE a picture to make me understand more *LOL* I hope this will help folks if needed.. I know I sure could have used something like this. ( this is on a 2K MM with 5,100 miles on her) Jeff P.S. PLEASE add any comments in case I made a mistake ! Thanks! NOTE: this Job could be done in 30 Min's with Pictures *LOL*file:///C:/VentureRider/wheel/showthread.php_files/rasberry.gif PLEASE READ ! OTHER NOTE'S BY, Denden, When you're re-assembling it... After you put the driveshaft in, put the differential on but leave the 4 nuts only finger tight. Then install the wheel and axle. Torque the axle nut to 110 ft/lbs. After the axel is torqued, THEN tighten up the 4 nuts on the differential. John Drummond, "Wrenchman" When you go to install the drive shaft a small diameter wire like an old antenna mast works great for holding the yoke up so you can slid the driveshaft in. Once the shaft makes contact with the yoke you can pull the wire out, and slid the shaft in to the yoke. This might take a try or two to get it in but works pretty well for lining up the yoke. Buz Rutan, "Naturbar" The author of the article says "I could not for the life of me get that darn MAIN AXLE BOLT out with out having to take my socket extension and hammer it out.." here is my addendum: On my 07 RSMTD - at the end of the axle shaft there is an place to use an Allen Head wrench - if you will turn it counterclockwise (loosen it) the axle shaft comes right out with no hammering (clockwise - or tightening to replace shaft)- also if you have slight pressure on the wheel assembly (i.e. tire resting on floor)while removing the axle it makes it much easier to remove.
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