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Showing results for tags 'caliper'.
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I found a leak on the front caliper today, and took the caliper off, cleaned off all the gunk and had a look at it. I couldn't see any place where it was leaking, so I split the sides, the rubber washers were good, so I reassembled them with a bit of anaerobic sealant out side the perimeter of the rubber washers as some added assurance. Bled the brakes and everything works. Are there typical places that I sould double check that would leak on this?
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I am removing the Baron Lowering kit caliper relocation bracket but I need a stock one to replace it with. Anybody got one laying around that they would part with? The previous owner doesn't have it. He had removed the lowering links already and now all I need is to change out the bracket.
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Ok, here's the deal. The last thing I had to do today before I buttoned the bike back up was swap out the two front brake lines with the new braided SS one. So I hit the hard one first. The left front caliper from the metering valve on the steering head. Not as bad as I expected. Used an injector to fill the lines with fluid and bled it out from the top then the caliper. Slick. Done this a few times before so I got the linked system down to a science. Now the easy one. Of course this is where I get in trouble. Front brake master to the right front caliper. I ran the line down through and disconnected the lines from the caliper and hooked up the new SS line. I then cracked up the union on the master and quickly changed the lines. About 30 second to do it. Filled the res with fluid and then using the injector as a vacumn on the bleeder I pulled fluid down though the line. Filled the res again and discover I have no pressure on the brake lever. Went back to the bleeder and used pressure to back fill the system from the bottom. The res level increased but still no pressure on the lever. This master was rebuilt last year and has been working fine. I drove it into the garage this morning. Some how I lost pressure in the few seconds that I had the upper fitting off. How do I get this master to reprime without tearing it apart? Any ideas? -
I lost the rear caliper cover, the plastic one that snaps into the top of the caliper. Does anyone have a spare they dont need anymore? Second gen......Thanks
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Two weeks ago I replaced the rear tire and put progressive springs in the forks. Also replaced the rear brake pads while I had everything apart. To compress the pistons in the caliper, I removed the bolt from the rear master cylinder to relieve pressure. Cleaned all brake parts, and bled the line following the factory manual (rear caliper, front caliper, metering valve, in that order). Around town the brakes work fine, but if I don't use them for awhile out on the road get no action from the peddle. It is very soft and depresses quite a ways with no stopping action from the rear/front left. If I 'pump' the peddle it returns enough to stop the bike with just the peddle. The front right is having no problems. I'm not sure what to look at next. It seems to me that if they start out tight and work around town that it wouldn't be the master cylinder, and it can't be brake fade from a misaligned pad heating up because it affects both calipers. Any ideas?
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I've decided to sell the chrome rotor covers I have and one set of caliper covers once I decide which set I want to keep. Rotor covers have had lights removed and are slightly scratched from someone trying to clean them up. Just never got around to installing them. Got to decide if I want to keep original Ventureline caliper covers or aftermarket ones I currently have on the bike. Will post pictures as soon as I can find my camera. -
Question regarding Front Brake feel
MickO posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
The other day I pulled the front brake calipers to check the condition of the brake pads and to add a little brake grease at the metal contact points (squeaking at slow speeds while braking). I pushed the caliper pistons slightly backing to the caliper in order to get the caliper to reinstall over the pads. I now find that the front brake lever is engaging much further away from the handle bar grip than previously, and too far away from the grip to be comfortable for me. Can anyone offer suggestions to correct this problem? Thx. -
Hi, does anyone have the step washer for the back wheel that goes between the wheel and the caliper bracket, and the washer that goes between the caliper bracket and the swing arm!! desperate to get in a few more rides before snow fall. thanks Gord
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Anyone else have this problem. Just replaced the rear tire to a Avon so because the tire was off I also removed the diff and greased the drive shaft. Anyway when I put the brake caliper back on it seemed fine until it was time for a test ride. The rear brake went all the way down and there was no stopping power at all. So took the caliper back off and could not see any thing wrong. Bled the heck out off it and got most off the braking power back. It just doesn,t make sence because when the caliper was first removed it was just moved out off the way and left until the rest was back together. Oh by the way it is an 08 Venture. Any suggestions.
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Saw a rear brake caliper on E-Bay for buy it now price of 300 bucks. If that thing goes I will be tearing down some Ventures and riding 750!!!! I could be a Rich man!!
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87 VR has sat since Oct, last year. THe front caliper is sticking now. What is the fix? Kevin
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Ok, something isn't right, obviously. Replaced my front tire with a WWW Maxxis Classic, by myself with a buddy's help. That, went ok. However, when reinstalling the left caliper, the top bolt would not thread in properly all the way. May need to tap it out as it appears to be stripping a bit. So, had the bottom bolt in and the top in 3/4 of the way. The wheel was snug when rotated (on the jack) and you could hear the calipers rubbing, thought that was normal. However, I rode about 15 miles, brakes working fine but, the left caliper was VERY hot to the touch, as was the rotor. Obviously, I won't be riding more till I fix this. Is it just the bolt not being fully secured or, do I have something else wrong? Should the wheel spin freely while on jack or is some audible rubbing normal? Thanks. -
My 89 VR is beginning to give an intermitant scraping in the rear brake. I'm not sure what starts it, maybe bumps in the road, or what makes it go away again. It is still there with the clutch disengaged, but goes away when the brake foot peddle is applied, returns when the peddle is released. The rotar doesn't feel scared, and the caliper assembly feels solidly attached. Is it likely just pads worn out? Is there anything else I should be looking at when I start taking it apart. I've got the rear caliper schematic so feel free to quote ref. #'s if you want. As well, any suggestions for after market or well priced brake parts online? -
On a trip to NC last year I lost the rear brakes. Pedal went right to floor. There was no leaks so limped it back to MI, located a resevoir and slave cylinder on ebay. Visual inspection of purchaed unit looked good, installed and bled the system. A good stream was exiting out the rear caliper, cleared all the air out of the system....still no brake pedal. Hooked up a vacuum bleeder to rear caliper ran another pint of fluid and still no pedal. Reviewed factory manual and found no clues or help. Couldn't find any specific procedure for bleeding rear. Look for rebuild kit for slave??? Or, am I missing something??? Any help or suggestions would really be appreciated. Thanks, Gary844
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I have a few sets of the (Discontinued) Royal Star Chrome Rotor Covers that I'm going to put up for sale and I don't know what they're worth. I was wondering what VRs that have them paid for them... And what Caliper Covers did you use with these.. From what I understand is the RS Caliper covers won't work on the RSV. Thanks Maineac
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Copied from another thread..... Here's my position on shimming Squeeze. If the handle bar masters are going to slip or rotate on the tubing with shims, they would do it without the shim because of improper torqueing. 6mm bolts will give plenty of torque compression to make the masters stationary. The weak point will be the threads in the aluminum body due to over torquing , and that exists, shims or not. I understand what you're talking about in delinking. I hadn't thought about the rear master driving the 2ndGen front caliper. I wonder if it could??? The 2ndGen calipers I have are the 2 piston varity with the floating offside pads. I wonder if it's the right way to go??? Hmmmm.... Got to think about this somemore....
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I'm planning to replace the brake caliper seals on my 84 Standard and when looking up the part numbers on Yamaha's website it shows "part # 31A-W0047-00-00 Quantity 2 " for the rear seal kit. I checked Flatout's and it shows the same thing. Anyone know why it shows 2 sets for the rear caliper? but only 1 set for each front caliper. Thanks
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I've seen a number of people report uneven rear brake pad wear. I bought my '05 RSV used and it passed state inspection only 2500 miles ago, so I wasn't expecting any brake issues for a while. I was dismayed when I started hearing grinding in the rear brakes. When I checked the pads, the inner was down to metal and the outer had 3/8" left. It seems that the caliper is sticking. Has anyone got Yamaha to cover the caliper and/or rotor under warranty? The bike has about 17k miles on it. The rotor is only slightly scratched, should I replace it? Thanks for any info. Jake -
After having gone thru all of the hair pulling and discussion of this particular parts ancestery I finally got the the brake bled!! The problem started out as a simple pad replacement which proceeded to go south at a very rapid rate and ended up in my having to take the caliper off and to the mech to replace the seals which decided that this was the time to give up the ghost. After getting the caliper back and the new pads installed and the caliper mounted, I started to bleed the brake, (right front). Now this is where the hair pulling and dicussing the caliper's ancestery began. I tried the regular way of pumping the brake handle with the bleeder screw closed with no success. Aha, I thought. I will go to the Venture site and do a search to find out how to bleed the brakes. I found and tried the reverse bleeding method, again with no success. Now this was beginning to take on all of the aspects of a 3 ring circus! So, I thought why not try the reverse bleeding method again but with a minor modification. Instead of filling a bottle and holding it up like a IV bottle, why not use a 60cc syringe which I had in my tool box. Btw, my daughter is a nurse at a local hospital and she got me a couple of these. If you are a nurse or know one, get a couple of these and keep in your tool box, they are handy as a third hand. But I digress. It worked GREAT!!!! This way you can use pressure to reverse bleed and it only took about 20 minutes to fully complete the job and have a good hard brake handle. Don H.
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I have a brake fluid leak that I am having trouble stopping. The fluid is coming from between the front caliper halves on the upper side when mounted on the bike. I have been unable to find replacemnt seals for the two bolts that hold the two caliper halves togeather. If you look at the picture you can see the area I am talking about. This is the right side caliper that is NOT part of the unified braking system I no one has ideas does anyone have a caliper for sale for an 83’. Thanks Steve
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Has anyone here installed the Baron's Lowering Kit and wants to part with the stock rear brake caliper mounting bracket? I "un-lowered" my '06 RSV by swapping out the Baron's links with Diamond R leveling links, but the previous owner did not have the stock brake caliper bracket (or stock links). I'm looking to buy the stock rear brake caliper mounting bracket, if yours is just sitting on the shelf in yoru garage let me know before I go buy a new one. -
Well, I am doing some last minute fixes and upgrades before Ft. Collins, so I installed the Venture Line front rotor covers and caliper covers I had laying around for a while. Somebody mentioned a while back that the rotor covers require a shorter axle spacer to adjust for the thickness of the covers. I bought the covers used, of course, without a spacer or installation instructions. Just gave it a try this afternoon while the bike was on the lift, unbolted the calipers, pulled the axle and dropped the front wheel. The covers went in without a major problem, just held the covers in place and then lowered the bike over the wheel. Really no interference with the extra thickness of the covers. I tightened the axle and torqued the pinch bolt and installed the caliper covers. The covers must have been made for an earlier bike, mine is an '89, I had to cut some material out for the anti-dive wiring and put a little notch in the lower portion to clear the fork tubes. Anyway, the front wheel now does not turn as easy as before, feels as if there is a lot more friction, most likely due to the thickness of the rotor covers. Has anybody installed these covers before using the original spacer? Was there a shorter spacer for the right side included with the original Venture Line kit? If that's the case, does anybody have a shorter spacer or an extra spacer that I can mill down to match? Or should I not worry about it and try a few miles? Another thing I would like to know is if the inserts in the chrome were available in matching colors for the bike, I can not recall ever seeing a blue inlaid set. The caliper covers are inlaid black and gold, the caliper covers brown and tan. Thanks in advance, Klaus -
Reverse Brake Bleeding Do it backwards like the Pros do! If conventional brake bleeding of the front brakes is leaving you with less hair and more wrinkles between the eybrows, try doing it backwards, like the professionals do!! If you have opened the system by changing brake lines or working on the calipers or the reservoir, this may be the only way to completely rid the system of air. Pro shops use a pressurized or "Bladder" setup to simply fill the system from the bottom up, chasing the air upwards, out the top, then some of the fluid is drawn back out or pumped back out to eliminate any residual air that may be pocketed in any upper recesses of the caliper. With a few dollars and a trip to your local hardware store and kitchen, you can build your own "Gravity Bleed" system and do the job right the first time and be finished in an hour, instead of a week!! Think of this system as a medical "I.V." system, just like the one they give you blood or fluids with. You fill a reservoir with fluid, attach it to the caliper bleeder valve (nipple), then either let gravity do the work, or lightly apply squeeze pressure by hand. Very simple, and extremely effective. Some items you will need: 1.) A typical 16 or 20 oz water bottle, clean and dry. 2.) A 3/16" Brass Hose Barb from the hardware store (with 1/8" pipe threads on the back end). 3.) A 1/2" brass Lamp base nut (listed with 1/8" ISP threads (to secure the hose barb with.) 4.) Two used banjo crush washers (these are a perfect size, but other washers will work. 5.) 6 feet of 3/16" inside diameter clear tubing. 6.) (Optional) 1/4" outside brass needle valve. 7.) A roll of Duct tape and a Coat Hangar or rope for suspending the bottle. 8.) Turkey baster (for removing excess fluid from reservoir. 9.) Some Teflon plumber's tape for sealing the bleeder valve threads. http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/supplies.jpg Drill a hole in the cap of the water bottle and attach the hose barb to the cap, using the brass lamp nut and the two used banjo washers. wrap a loop of duct tape over the bottom of the bottle so you will have something to hang it upside down by. http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/cap.jpghttp://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/bottle.jpg Pour in the brake fluid. Attach the clear tubing to the cap. (I used a small needle valve near the free end of the hose just to make things work a little cleaner, since I had to bleed both sides of my dual disc system, but the needle valve is not necessary.) Remove the caliper bleeder nipple, clean its threads, and then wrap a short length of Teflon tape around the threads to help seal it from air entry or fluid leakage during the process, then reinstall the nipple to the caliper. http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/teflon1.jpg http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/teflon2.jpg First of all, use common sense when setting up to bleed. Air migrates upward in a liquid system, so tilt your handlebars, turn your handlebars, and or reposition your master cylinder so that the banjo fitting is BELOW the lowest point of the reservoir. Now, after removing the reservoir cap, loosen the caliper bleeder valve to open it, and attach the free end of the clear tubing to it. It helps to let the clear tubing fill up with fluid right to the end before attaching to the bleeder valve, just to reduce the introduction of air into the brake system. Raise and secure the upside down bottle to a level just above the reservoir, then take a small pointed punch or other device and poke a small "breather" hole in the bottom of the bottle (which is now the high end), so it can draw in air as the fluid flows downward. Make sure that the clear tubing makes a constant uphill path to the bottle so that air in the tubing will work its way to the top and into the bottle. http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/ivbottle.jpg http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/setup.jpg You can help and speed the process by taking the bottle in your hand and while holding your thumb over the breather hole, squeeze the bottle gently, and watch the reservoir as it fills. You can also "suck" fluid back through by moving your thumb off the hole, then squeezing the bottle to remove its air content, then hold your thumb over the hole and manipulate the bottle to draw fluid back in with a slight vacuum pressure When the system is initially filled with fluid, let it sit undisturbed for 15 minutes, then there will be three air bubbles left in the system. One small one just below each bleeder nipple at the calipers, and one big one at the master cylinder banjo fitting. Now, with the system full, you can "tickle" that bubble out of the banjo by LIGHTLY squeezing the lever only a SLIGHT amount (may 1/4"). Just "wiggle" the lever in and out at the very outward portion of its travel, and it will draw that bubble upward. If you fully squeeze the lever, or squeeze it hard, you are forcing that banjo bubble down into the brake line, and it has to start climing back up all over again. When you can't "tickle" any more air through the tiny orifice in the reservoir, reverse sqeeze some more fluid through the system with the bottle, and watch for any new bubbles. If you don't get any new ones, and can't "tickle" any more out from the top, then crack open the caliper bleeder and SLOWLY bleed any remaining caliper air out from the bottom conventionally. Finish off the other caliper and test the system. Dual Disc Notes: If your system consists of dual brake discs and calipers, work the left caliper first, until fluid begins to reach the reservoir, then swap over and work the right, until all air is evacuated, then finally, go back and lever bleed the left again to make certain there is no air left in the caliper itself.
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Here's a pic of the right saddle bag off '83#2. Great conversation piece. Never knew so much damage could be caused by a caliper overheating.. This is the only thing it could have been because the caliper is sitting right next to this area of the bag. Talk about smokin'.... The cover of the bag was in great shape so I replace the back with an extra I had with a funky cover. Looks great....now... :)
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