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VR Assistance

  1. I'm not sure I have a fuel pump problem or not. I've had it down for a couple of days for some mods. Lowered the front forks and put in some Ponch gauges. I had the fairing completely off and back on. I started it and let it run to test the gauges and everything seemed to do just fine. I could hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds when I turned the ignition on. Now after I put the fairing back on and finished up with everything I turn the ignition on and there is no fuel pump sound. It still starts and runs but I don't get any pump sound. Now here's the question......What's wrong with it? One more thing I have an 94 Road Star and I took the fuel pump off of it, some time ago, does anyone ever run RSV's without fuel pumps on a permanent basis?
  2. I've been searching for what's wrong with my Millenium. It's idling a little lumpity lump crappy. Idle slows down sometimes. It has only died out once while idling. Seems to run well down the road. Today, I did the following: Replaced the plugs (had 17k miles on them). #2 and #4 looked fine. #1 and #3 were a little darker, but not bad at all. Replaced the fuel filter (but the old filter still flowed fuel very well). Drained all carbs (very slight bit of water in #3 bowl). With the bowl drains open, I ran the pump to push new fuel through them and out the drain hose. Drained the tank and inspected fuel (looked fine). Checked the main and reserve petcock screens (both were clear). Tested the fuel pump (clicking along and shooting fuel, albeit, I don't know how well it should shoot fuel). This is what I find happening: Every time I turn on the key, the pump will run for about 6 seconds. I turn the ignition to "on", but don't try to start the engine. The pump runs for 6 seconds. I turn off the key for a second or so and turn it back to "on", the pump again runs for 6 seconds. It does this no matter how many times I cycle through this procedure, although never trying to start the bike. I have never before noticed the pump running every time I turn on the ignition. Usually, when the bike has been sitting for a few days, of course the pump will pump up several clicks when I turn on the ignition. But normally, if the bike has been ridden recently, the pump would only click a time or two and it was all it needed. I don't believe that I have a stuck float as I don't distinguish any gas in the oil. I haven't had the carbs off yet. Probably gonna go there next. Has 54k on the bike now. But I'm still wondering if the pump is working properly.
  3. my 2010 Wings fuel mileage seems to be all over the place from 35 to 40 miles per gallon. I got 1600 miles on the bike using premium gasoline 92 octane BP or 89 oct from Sunoco. Seem to get better mileage from the 89. I know its how and were you ride but with my RSTD i got 44 miles per gallon on mid-grade gas always put in 2 oz s of marvel mystery oil. I know there will be a difference from a 4 to 6 cylinder but always averaged 44 mpg. How many miles will it take for my Goldwing to break-in and get a good average and what are other Goldwings getting. When i ride highway its 65 to 70 mph and 45 to 50 on our main roads down here in florida. Will be switching to synthetic oil on the next change and have factory Dunlop's tires.
  4. I can only figure that it's fuel related, like maybe bad gas or excess moisture in the line. It happened 3 times on Friday in an hour, then OK for a few days and about 90 miles, and then again twice earlier today, and then OK since. After it cuts off, it fires right back up again with no problem. I put about 6 oz of B-12 Chemtool in it on Friday, thinking that would help, and thought it was until it cut out again today. I'll run it again from Wednesday through the weekend pretty heavily when the weather clears (rain tomorrow and Tuesday here in the ATL) and see what happens. Gotta feeling I've got a fuel filter replacement in my future. Maybe some new plugs too. Any other thoughts, or anyone having a similar experience that you have found the solution for, I'd love to hear about it.
  5. Hi guys.. buddy and I ran into a weird one today.. After a week of torrential downpour and heavy winds, the weather finally cleared enough to get the bikes out for a cold windy run.. we're die hard riders who refuse to put their bikes away.. When I got to my buddy's house his bike was idling very oddly...and this is where everything goes wrong to worse.. Full choke ON, bike barely idling.. but it's idling prolly sounds like 900 rpm.. if you touch the throttle, the bike dies.. If you take the choke off, the bike dies.. It needs full choke and don't play with the throttle.. VERY odd indeed.. We DID see this a few weeks ago in New Hampshire on a late season road trip.. but the bike cleared itself inside of 5 minutes and ran 100% since then.. so odd. But this time, no go.. Nothing you could do would clear what ever was causing it.. Then we noticed that the sound was getting even more odd.. Hello, what's this.. We then noticed that the front jugs were not making heat at all.. and then ONLY the rear left jug.. (I have to stop touching hot metal exhausts.. ) try as we could, the bike would not start and stay running.. Not good.. Now, the bike had been sitting in his garage for a week, semi heated, but with about a 1/4 tank of fuel in it.. shouldn't have made too huge a difference.. We added another 1/2 gallon of fuel to the tank with some SeaFoam.. ya never know.. but no change. It just wouldn't catch.. When you cranked the starter, you could hear the one jug catching but not igniting completely and the other jugs just going along for the ride, not firing.. I don't recall a lot of raw fuel smell either.. windy as it was.. Battery was on a tender all week before this.. So, we abandoned his bike for the winter.. I sadly said goodbye to my friend and hauled out of there for a quick spin before heading home and getting some fresh fuel into my gas tank for the next storage period.. And I get the phone call, the bike started and is running 100% fine.. HUH? Just like it did in New Hampshire.. We thought then that the bike, sitting outdoors in the overnight cold rain might have had some water in it.. But what the? Breaking it down to the bare minimums, we thought what about the fuel filter? I changed his filter in July, perhaps 15,000 miles ago.. Not long in TIME but perhaps due in mileage? My fuel filter had clogged so badly that it starved the engine last year.. Then what about the pump? My pump had died prematurely and in such a weird and wild manner, maybe his is doing the same thing? But while we were cranking the engine over earlier on, the pump was getting warm, indicating to me perhaps that it is work OK.. otherwise a failed pump wouldn't make any heat if it's not working? Gremlins.. what the heck.. No idea what caused this failure today, its very similar to what happened a month prior.. and now the bike works 100% no probs, lots of power and almost like it never happened.. How do you start trouble shooting such a problem? The bike is under warranty but the shops here are lacking in experience on these types of bikes, he might never see his bike back again.. Any thoughts or idea what to look for the NEXT time the bike does this again.. if ever? Thanks M8
  6. Since I'm at work & can't look it up, can someone tell me if the fuel pump is in the tank? This morning I started off to work, as usual. Got about a half mile up the road & bike starts stumbling. Oh yeah. Forgot to flip petcock yesterday back to reserve. I usually don't put it to "ON", but, just to keep things working, I turned it down. Turned it back to reserve, but, bike will hardly start, if it starts at all, then dies within 15 seconds or so. I was actually going to get gas before heading to work, as I was 14 miles into "F". Good thing from my home to where I was, is all up hill, so, I turned around & coasted back down the hill to home & took the truck to work. I've heard it's not good to run the gas down to empty if the fuel pump is in the tank because it uses the gas as a lubricant & coolant & if you're that low, it could damage the fuel pump. Is this an issue with this bike? I've never had a problem like this before & I almost always fill up with about 5.25-5.75 gallons. I now have 40K miles on it & another 7 months on the warranty, so, if it is the fuel pump, I assume it's covered. Any other ideas out there? I guess it could also be a clogged fuel filter? Thanks.
  7. I've got a '00 Honda Rancher, I don't ride it much and here lately it'll crank right up, but once the fuel is consumed out the carburator it goes dead. I'm doing the Seafoam treatment and some WD40 through the intake. I think the float was stuck and now it seems to be working (maybe) While its idling I can watch the fuel line from the tank go empty through the glass filter...it gets just enough to idle and nothing more. I've pulled the fuel line off and have good flow. I've checked the breather tube on the gas cap and its open. I've drained the bowel on the carburator out several times. Any advise on what to check next (would a poor vacuum cause this) or should I break down and find a mechanic. Thanks for ya's input.
  8. Started up the 87 VR today and pumping fuel onto the ground behind the center stand. It looks like it is coming from the bottom front of the fuel tank. Only running out (very heavy) when engine is running. Is the fuel pump located there? Is there information on taking it apart so I can determine what is leaking? Thanks for the help Mike
  9. yep another fuel mileage thread but with a twist.. We always hear of people grumpling about getting bad mileage while others boast how fuel efficient their bikes are compared to others.. I constantly ride with the same buddy on long road trips so it gives a good comparison to riding styles, mods and so on as to what works best for fuel mileage.. In the past two years, he's always gotten better mileage than I have, consistently every time until this last trip.. Even after visiting Goose in Texas and getting his expertise at hand to tweak the valves, carbs and so on, my mileage never got any better than my buddy.. In the USA, I would always pump in about .2 to .5 of a gallon more per tank full runs.. In Canada, it would equate to about 1.5 litres or so per tank load.. Except for this last trip!! FINALLY.. the whole trip I finally managed to get consistently every time better mileage than he did.. sometimes by a large margin! yes! lol And I think it's ONLY because I finally remembers to clean out my K&N air filters! When I was down in TX, we pulled the air filters out and just gave them a shake to knock off anything loose but didn't wash and re-load them as they were still very nice and red.. The other week I pulled them off the bike and gave them a proper wash.. and oh my gosh.. filthy doesn't even come close to describing these filters! Even though they looked red and fresh, they were filthy! And right away, after re-loading them, I started to notice much better mileage across the board and under all conditions.. wow.. yeah I think I'm going to be keeping a better schedule on these puppies from now on.. As for mileage? Yeah.. it got me thinking why so many can boast 45-48 mpg while others can get better than 35 or 38 mpg.. I think a lot of it is on how you ride and at what speeds.. Running the bikes anywhere around 50 to 60 on the speedo will get me anywhere from 44 to 48 mpg on this last trip through the White Mountains, while doing 70 - 85 mph on the I90 series will get me 35 to 38 mpg.. (even at 85 we were the SLOW vehicles, wow) So yeah.. basically, clean your air filters.. just cuz they look clean, doesn't mean they are clean.. Its basic common sense maintenance but I totally let it slip past me.. sigh.
  10. I have a 1990 VR that has been sitting for eight years. After putting a new battery in, it started right up, but didn't idle. I drained the gas tank (the fuel in it was amber) and refilled with BP Premium spiked with 4 oz. Sea Foam. I've cleaned the carbs and checked the slides and diaphragms, and adjusted and cleaned til I'm blue in the face. The bike will idle and has decent throttle response until it gets hot. When it gets into mid temperature gauge territory, the idle begins to climb until it is at 4.5K and I can't stand it any more, where upon I shut it down. This scenario happens whether sitting in the garage on the center stand or while riding. Sooner or late the idle will climb to the 3-4.5K range and make stop lights rather embarrassing and shifting very ugly. I've been running Sea Foam through and have adjusted the pilot screws to 2.5-3 turns out (notably, turning the pilot screws in all the way or out all the way has NO effect with idle). I have synchronized the carbs (using mercury sticks) and they are very nearly perfect and never seem to change synchronization. I have tested the pressure sensor (vacuum sensor, boost sensor) and find voltages well within spec (2.18 when at atmosphere, .65 volts at .90kpa on a mityvac vacuum pump). Pulling vacuum on the pressure sensor causes an increase in rpm...sometimes. Idle must be over 1000 rpm for pressure sensor vacuum to effect it, apparently. I removed the pressure sensor and it's harness and connectors and cleaned them. I removed the TCI connectors and cleaned them. Some of the spade connectors were corroded, but not bad. Still, though an increase in vacuum always caused a voltage drop, this voltage drop did not always/usually result in an rpm climb ON A COLD TO WARM engine. I checked for vacuum leaks at all the usual suspects; the pressure sensor vacuum hose and restricter = AOK, the sync plugs = AOK, the carb to head boots = not AOK. Number 3 and 4 seemed to be leaking at the carb bases. I checked for leaks with carb cleaner spray. Regarding the leaks at #3 and #4 carb boots: I removed the clamps and ground off the tabs that seemingly prevent the clamps from tightening too tight (?), and reinstalled the clamps on the boots and re-tightened. Spraying with carb cleaner around the newly tightened boots did not result in idle change, IE, no leaks. Curiously (and significantly ?), pulling the sync plugs off the idling bike, one at a time, has little effect on the idle, EXCEPT for #2. Opening the sync port on that cylinder, slows the idle significantly. I have checked the float bowl fuel level and found all to be at 19mm below the reference line. I have monitored the fuel level on the running bike and it has remained very stable at this level. (I have rigged four fuel level gauging tubes attached to the carbs for testing). I realize that the fuel level is lower than spec, but that also indicates that an overfull fuel chamber is not causing the hot high idle, doesn't it? Or, could it be that the hot engine is running leaner and leaner and perhaps the lean condition is causing the high idle? I changed the spark plugs (NGK DPR8EA-9). The old plugs (NGK DPR8EA-9) looked new, including the rather white porcelain. Perhaps running a bit lean? (However, during the course of testing and fixing, I ran through a tank full of premium and got just 25 mpg. Granted there was a lot of stationary running, testing, full throttle "testing", etc. The mechanical parts of the throttle system are up to snuff: cables free and lubed, idle stop screw allowing for fully slow idle, carb butterflies all equally closed, and though I had a slide hanging initially, all slides/diaphragms are AOK. As the bike sat there idling nicely away at about 1000 rpm, I was beginning to feel like I had fixed this vexing problem of high hot idle, but NO!, soon the rpm began to climb; first quickly to 3000, but then soon was at 4500 and I couldn't take it anymore. About 10-15 minutes has elapsed. I pulled the pressure sensor vacuum line from #2 and immediately the rpm dropped to about 1500 rpm. I reattached the vacuum hose and it zoomed to 4500 again. I shut the bike down and had a beer. I have been chasing this for days and am discouraged. I am seeking some new insight from someone out there. I have reviewed all pertinent threads, especially the one from warthogcrewchief this year, where he had a similar problem, but his solution doesn't seem to fit my problem.
  11. Hi all. I own a 1996 Tour Classic with quite a few miles on it and I'm considering buying a new bike after the winter. I looked at the Yamaha website and was surprised to see the Venture still has carburators. Does anyone know if there will be a fuel injected model? I hope so cause the next option is gonna have to be the Kawasaki Voyager if not.
  12. Ok, we have Seafoam, Berrymans, and 44K...but how about Startron? I have a freind who swears by this stuff...says it has increased the mileage on his ElectraGlide from about 36 to about 39 mpg...a bit more power, and he's only adding a small amount out of a syringe to the fuel tank. One ounce treats 6 gallons of gas. http://mystarbrite.com/startron//content/view/35/47/lang,en/ http://mystarbrite.com/startron//images/stories/product/family/family-gas-200.jpg Anyone tried it yet?
  13. for those of you who use it you know those who don't shame on you . had a 81 honda cb 650 given to me had not been started in 3 yrs and was buried this year under the 24 inchs of snow we had and then all the snow from the st pieled on top of it .after cking all the wiring and for spark ( everything worked) cleaned gas tank carb floates where frozen fuel running every where . I filled fuel line going to carbs with the magic elixer let it sit over night and the next day filled tank with fuel and tried it . Started first try no float sticking . bike runs fine. now just clen up left. Seafoam does it again. Bill
  14. I changed out my fuel filter this morning - hate lining up that set-screw that holds the clamp to the fuel tank. When I went to open the fuel valve back up, the little plastic square knob on the fuel shut-off valve shattered like glass. As a temporary measure to get the gas turned back on so I can use it, I'm going to try to jb-quick weld a make-shift knob onto the sheared off plastic that's fairly flush with the metal valve body. If that don't work, anybody got any other ideas ? Also - when I cut the gas off, the indicator in the knob was vertical for on. I think I turned it one/quarter turn to the left to turn it off. Before I put any turning pressure on a glued on know, I wanted to ask if anyone with a working petcock can check and make sure that as you face the valve from the right side of the bike, that the valve needs to go 1/4 turn to the right (if it was a screw that would be the tightening direction to turn it on). Anybody got a petcock valve for sale ?
  15. I'm working on a '86'vr that I bought as a parts bike. The dealer said that it would only run if they poured gas down the carbs. He didn't want to mess with it. Turns out the fuel pump relay had some thing rattling around inside it, cut it open and found little electrical stuff burned off. Question 1. Can I use the Class relay in place of fuel relay? It plugs right in and runs the fuel pump but, it looks way different than the correct relay. (I'm eliminating the Class system) Question 2. Is the diode in the starting circuit essential or can it be bypassed? When in neutral the start button wouldn't work I pull the clutch lever, button works. Tested diode D2 not working properly shows infin. on both poles D1 ok resister read 8.3 omhs. When I jump the D2 poles the start button works fine. Mike
  16. Ok folks this is my first "official post" and I am new to the VR so I hope my question isn't too far in left field. Keep in mind I am a child of the fuel injection generation so carbs are a balck art to me. I can tune the pants of a fuel injected vehicle, case in point my 500 HP Vette, but carbs befuddle me. So my question: Recently I put some holes ( about 8 x 3/8 inch) in the stock air box and noticed a little improvement. Last weekend I decided I needed a little more agressive sound so I cut-off the end of the muffler and removed the end baffle. The inner baffle is still intact and I love the new sound. So is it possible with some loss of restriction on the airbox and muffler side that I need to put bigger jets in the carbs? The bike is purring like a kitten when cruising down the road, no pops or back fires and much better acceleration but I also want it to last and really don't want to melt down valves or pistons due to an over lean condition. My first Touring bike and I love it. Thanks
  17. I have a 2006 RSV that has set for a while. When I turn on the key the fuel pump runs and pumps fuel out of some type of vent line behind the left cowling. It is not the tank vent as I have pulled that hose and checked. Anyone have any idea what it might be and how to cure the problem? Thanks. Frank :icon_smile_question
  18. I have a first gen 83xvz1200 if I pull off the fuel line at the carbs I can see fuel pumping out but thats it just by turning the key it happens. If I put a little gas in the carbs then start it it runs till the fuel i poured in burns off. If I pour gas in carbs and leave the fuel line off while the engine burns off the fuel I poured I don't see any fuel coming out the fuel line from the fuel pump. Have no idea what to do. Seems it's not getting fuel somehow!! Thanks, Chop
  19. Has anyone tried, or heard anyone using the Fuel Fragrance additives ? Do they work ?
  20. I have an '09 Venture. Bought it 4 weeks ago with only 2500km on it and now have almost 4400km on it. I've been keeping track of mileage and it has been consistent. Question I have is how far can I go on a tank of gas ? What I'm finding is that : 1) low fuel light comes on about 255km (158.45 miles) - mix of city/highway driving (and I do like to take advantage of the revs on the engine !) 2) with fuel cock still "ON" I can go another 21km (12.8 miles) before the engine starts to sputter and stall 3) if I pull into a gas station immediately after switching to "RES" it only takes 16.433L (3.615 Imp gal, 4.341 US gal) to fill it up (fill so it just touches the bottom of the neck) From the specs on the bike, fuel tank capacity is 22.5L (4.95 Imp gal, 5.94 US gal) with a 3.5L (0.77 Imp gal, 0.92 US gal) reserve (I take it the fuel capacity includes the reserve). So... if the spec says 22.5L and I put 16.433L in to fill it up when I finally switch to reserve, does that mean that there really is a little over 6L of fuel still left ? I was on level ground and on the highway when the engine started sputtering and riding in a straight line. If the "Reserve" is 3.5L does that mean that 2.5L (15 % !!) in the main tank isn't available without sloshing the bike around to get it picked up? If that is the case, is 3.5L really available in the Reserve or is some not picked up as well? Working out the mileage.... I'm getting an average of 47.448 miles/Imp gal or 39.505 miles/US gal - 5.954L/100km Based on a 22.5L fuel capacity does that mean I can expect to go 378km (235 miles) if I run it totally dry ? I like the sounds of that on a touring bike ! (sorry for all the conversions but this is to a mixed measurement forum ! )
  21. [attach]48985[/attach] [attach]48986[/attach] [attach]48987[/attach] [attach]48988[/attach] I swapped out the stock shield for the clearview..not sure if this caused this adverse condition or if it was always there. Anyway, I got tired of air blowing up beside the tank hitting me in the chest and helmet (alot of buffeting). I got the knee protectors from Buddy Rich and with the help of a heat gun and some 3m tape, I came up with these. After six months, I love them. They don't block all the air but they do block bout 75% of it, creating a much smoother ride, but still enough air to stay comfortable. They don't block any air to the engine compartment. To give you an example of what I'm talking bout, at 60 mph hold your hands palm down along side of fuel tank in front of your knees....RSV's may not experience this.
  22. I have an '83 venture that runs ok when fed gas by gravity. I have no clicking at fuel pump when moving run switch off and on. Just pulled the bike in so I have no history except the plate has a 1999 reg sticker on it. How would I check the pump function? and advice is welcome. (new here, not new to fixing bikes) Mikel
  23. I have a first gen and it won't stay running. If I put a few drops of gas in carbs and it will burn that off and wont stay running. I have ordered a fuel pump off ebay. It's like the fuel is getting cut off before it reaches the carbs. I pulled the fuel line off at the carb and turned the key and fuel is pumping but when it starts it quickly dies after the drops pf gas that i put in carbs burns off. uggg very fustrated
  24. 83 Venture, Cylinders #2 and #4 dead and cold to touch, even after ride. Verified good spark. Plugs come out very wet. Suspected very rich flooding cylinder preventing fire. Float fuel levels verified good. Sync perfect. MPG=25-28:(. 1/2 tank strong seafoam run thru. Carbs rebuilt by me but can't confirm I did not do something wrong. Installed skydoc17 needle shim mod. Today confirmed carbs #2 and #4 only, dumping too much fuel. At idle, placed tip of shop towel into throat against main fuel needle for just a second. Towel tip comes out wet in carbs #2 and #4 and dry in #1 and #3. Thought I could see fuel coming from jet and along needle, and confirmed with above towel method. Now I am 99.9% positive excessive fuel is preventing cylinder #2 and #4 to fire. Fuel float levels are correct, but during operation carbs dumps too much fuel out the main fuel jet, even during idle when main jet should be completely closed off. 1. What could cause this? 2. What to inspect? 3. How to repair? 4. How to pretest after repair on the bench? pics not very good but first Pic, tip of towel in throat second pic tip wet
  25. Last Friday I encountered, for the first time in the 112,000 miles that I have ridden this bike, fuel coming from one of the over flow tubes. Once I isolated the correct carburator, which was the right rear one, I pulled the hose off going to the fuel inlet port and blew compressed air into the bowl. It did blow some gas out of at least one of the top jets, but after I started the bike up, it fixed the problem. Since then, I have put almost 600 miles on it and it is running great. If you don't have compressed air, you could probably just spray some carb cleaner into the inlet port and do the same thing, especially if you can seal up the inlet tube and spray tube some. RandyA
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