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Showing results for tags 'shaft'.
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does anyone have 1 cam shaft from a 1st gen, 2nd gen, or vmax that they're willing to donate to the cause of building a shim tool by flyinfool ? will pay for shipping. the cams can be bad, really need to play with the hex area between the cams where the shim tool rides. TIA
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Hi All, Just wanted to get aquainted with everyone so that as I go through my project and ask for help you'll know what I'm up to. A couple er 3 years ago I started a project to put a Venture drive train and electronics into a legend's race car. Not just a standard legend but one that would have two seats and be registered for the road. Fast forward to now,,,,,,The frame has been widened and is complete, the body has been widened and is mostly complete except for the hood and grille. The rearend is installed with a 4link. The engine/trans is mounted but not yet connected to the drive shaft. The current project is the exhaust. We intend to run them into side pipes. The two biggest projects left is an offset drive between the trans and the drive shaft to reverse the direction of rotation and to get the output back to the center of the vehicle to line up with the drive shaft and of course the electrical system. I intend to incorperate the complete electrical system from the bike into the car including the dash board/speedometer, stereo, CB etc. At the moment I don't have any pictures handy but I'll try and get some posted later. Thanks in advance for allowing me to lean on your knowledge as I'm sure I will as I attempt to get this project going. TR
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On the Gen II is the swing arm adjustable left to right? I have installed a Tri Wing trike kit and when the drive shaft is lined up, the diff is offset about 1-1/8".
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Last fall my '86 developed a whine coming from the rear tire area, I checked it out as best as I could and decided that the inside wheel bearing by the final drive was probably shot. So this spring I got a new set of bearings and replaced them, lubed & greased up the clutch hub and changed the oil in the final drive and made sure the backlash was OK. The oil from the pumpkin was VERY black but there was only 1 very small piece of metal on the magnet & I did not find anything in the bottom of the drain pan. I got it together tonight & just got back from a test ride and am frustrated that the sound is still there . . . but much easier to pinpoint now that the bearing is corrected. I'm getting a wine that is audible from the drive shaft area of the bike. Using a long screw driver as a stethoscope and the bike running in gear on the stand, the sound is the loudest at the input of the final drive. Is it likely that the drive shaft just needs to get lubed up again or something more serious? If that is not it does the big bearing for the input shaft go bad @ about 100K? Has anyone replaced the big bearing for the input shaft on the final drive? Is it difficult? OR . . . it best to start looking for a new final drive and leave that one alone? Thanks, Mike -
When you guys flip the axle over on the trailer to put it on top of the springs, do you still rest it on the flat part (open channel up) or the round shaft side( open channel side down as in manual on the spring? Weld plates on or just drill the shaft to align the spacing? thanks
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I managed to break the antenna on my '86 VR today right at the CB load (wide part). Anyone have the entire antenna shaft where it screws into the mount that they would part with for a reasonable amount? Thanks for your help.
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Friend took his new to him RSV in to get an oil leak checked out and was told that the shifter shaft had play in it and oil was leaking from the "wallowed" out area of the crankcase around the shifter shaft. I have never heard of this nor can I find any info on such a thing happening. Shop says it will be $6000 to fix because you have to replace the ENTIRE crankcase and basically rebuild it all. Assuming they are right, is there any repair for this? The bike shifts fine and is excellent otherwise. -
Rear end trouble...need advice HELP
CMIKE posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Saturday we rode down to Hammond LA to eat some crawfish, It was a spur of the moment day trip, there and back. Crawfish were good but kinda expensive. On the way back...the I noticed the normal SCREAM seemed to get louder. The closer I got to the house, it was almost unbearable...you really need ear plugs now.:puzzled::puzzled: When I got home I parked it outside the shop to let it cool off before putting it in the shed and noticed a puddle of oil about 2" round under it when I moved it into the shop. It smelled like gear oil. Got to looking...oil all over the rear wheel and tire...and some on the frame under the bike. Today I got a chance to tear it down to see what is going on...looks like it was leaking oil at the flange where the pumpkin connects to the drive shaft tube. Yep the seal on the drive shaft is toast but it was replaced not to long ago during a tire change. Pulled the pumpkin off and the cup where the drive shaft slips into seems very loose. Like maybe the outer pinion bearing is gone. It seems it has about 1/8" slack in it. I think on the drawings it is called the gear coupling. About how much slack should be in the Gear Coupling. I do not remember any slack there in the past but maybe I am wrong. I need somebody to tell me what they remember on their final drive. I already called a dealer and he said bring it...but wouldn't you know this would happen in the best time of the year to ride. HELP me out with some advice -
With a little time to spare before work today I decided to start the job to pull the final drive and lube the drive shaft. In a matter of two hours I was able to pull the tire, remove, clean, moly and reinstall the hub. Pull the final drive and drive shaft clean her up, moly it and reinstall it. I was pleasantly surprised how easy and quick it was. Guess I’ll be putting this job on the yearly to do list.
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OK, I'm sure this is nothing but......I found the attached fragement of metal in an area where I have been working on my 2nd Gen rear hub. I've done the following:- Remove hub and shaft from bike. Pulled shaft out of hub and regreased both ends, replace checking spring was in place. Remove hub gear wheel from hub after removing circlip and dust cover for regreasing. Now I'm sure this fragement has come from somewhere else as it is so clean, but just thought I'd check in case anyone hase see anything like it before from the rear end of one of these bikes. Its clearly broken at one end and has a tapering V groove on one side. I hope the pics are good enough for identification. All help gratefully recieved. Cheers
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Having searched the tech section, I just want to clarify something. Having greased the splines on the end of the drive shaft I've gone to insert it back in the drive shaft tube. After a little jiggle it went in and i was able to loosly fit the four acorn nuts prior to doing the alignment process as reccommended in the tech section. My question is (probably a dumb one) is, is it possible for the end of this shaft to miss its connnection with the UJ and simply lay in the bottom of the tube? I think its gone in but not sure. Cheers
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pulled the rear end and lubed everything from hub to drive shaft with moly paste. also got a new rear tire and replaced brake pads. I have put several hundred miles on since the work. Last night the wife and i were arriving at home when i noticed a "creak" somewhere in the rear end. It goes with the rotation of tire or shaft. Any thoughts? Did I miss something? Thanks for the help.
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Friend has a '07 Suzuki Boulevard, shaft drive. He removed rear wheel to get nail hole fixed, put back together driveshaft won't turn. Told him to pull back apart and make sure he got drive shaft in yoke,done, says the engine running put in gear let out on clutch can hear noise in rear of engine like something turning but driveshaft nor yoke is turning. What does he need to do? Any suggestions?:confused24:Thanks in advance.
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I have a vibration when going around 30-35 mph feels like the drive shaft has a shutter or the u-joint. What do you guys think? Any suggestions?
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Good Morning All, Last time I rode my 2005 RSTD, I noticed a vibration at higher speed. My RSTD has about 9830 miles on it. I have read several posts here about greasing the splines in the rear hub and the drive shaft. I would like to do this before a trip that I have scheduled for the 24th. Can any of you direct me to existing threads with step by step instructions on what must be removed to accomplish this? For instance, is it necessary to remove the rear fender and the exhaust header pipes? I am mechanically inclined, but I haven't ever removed the rear wheel on a shaft drive motorcycle before. Also, I have read threads where people have ruined seals trying to remove the drive shaft. I want the bike to be safe for this trip, but at the same time, I don't want to do anything stupid that will end up causing me to not be able to take the bike on the trip. So can any of you point me in the direction of some step by step instructions of this process? (Pictures would help if available.) Thanking You In Advance. Regards, Tony -
Well, after servicing my bike, I've run across a potential issue. When I pulled the drive shaft out of the swingarm to check the upper splines, a coil of metal was wrapped around it. Looked like the coils that spin out of steel when it is drilled. I had a look up the drive shaft tunnel and all looked well...no leaks and everything in place...as far as I could tell. After all was back together, it seemed to be running just as it should...until the rumble started. The description is somewhat typical of what has been described before; quiet with power on, a low rumble on deceleration, somewhat quieter with the clutch in. Being the paranoid type...I'm going to have to discover what the hell this noise is. What I've done so far is slip the swingarm boot back to look at the yoke. The bolt is in place so that shaft isn't broken. There is no detectable in or out play in the output shaft. There is very little rotational play in the mesh with the drive gear, (as gauged by slowly turning the shaft and listening for the tiny click when the gears touch). Total slack in the drive system with the bike in first is about 2 inches, measured at the wheel. With the bike in neutral on the center stand, the rear wheel spins easily, without resistance or binding. When I roll the wheel forward by handd, (which dynamically puts the same forces on the system as deceleration), I can feel a slight rumble which feels like gears meshing somewhat roughly. It smooths out when rolling the wheel backwards. With a stethoscope, I pinned down that the rumble is coming from the pumpkin, not the middle shaft. So now I'm going to try a few things. Tonight I will loosen the 4 nuts holding the pumpkin to the swingarm and see if there is enough movement to realign the shaft a bit. If that fails, I will remove the pumpkin completely to check for play. (When I had the pumpkin off to service the rear end, I pulled the shaft out of the pumpkin. The seal came with the shaft, completely intact so it was reusable. The input shaft stayed with the pumpkin indicating that the shaft was also intact.) I'll basically have a good poke around and see what's what. I'm hoping for an easy fix but am prepared for tears and pouting. Attached are some pics of a strange bit of metal I found wound around the shaft when I pulled it from the swingarm. I have no idea where it's from....I'll have a better look when I'm in there again...unless it fixes itself then it will have to wait until the snow blows. -
I needed to grease the splines, so I also took the drive shaft out,,,, not a biggie,,, I done this before, even wrote on how to do it the easy way, without extra tools. Now it WON"T go in,,, it just won't go in,,, I mean it just won't engage. I can wiggle the u-joint, turn the U-joint, see the u-joint, get the shaft started into the u-joint, but it won't engage. Anybody have any ideas???????? 4 hours at this, and I'm a little frustrated.
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Since I have my wheel off waiting for a tire. I decided to seperate the shaft from the drive to inspect "stuff" aka pinion nut. Pinion nut = good. I did this 15 years ago. Wow, how have things changed. NOW, the seal I believe needs to be replaced. Basically there is a rust ring left by the rubber seal where it mates to the drive. Plus the original seal was never sitting straight. So the rust ring is not even. Basicallly the seal is "tipped". And a new seal would likely be better than the original. Here's the kicker...this ain't no average seal. It appears to be on the shaft with a VERY tight metal collar. I suspect if I do get this seal off there will be rust under the collar. Anyone ever change this seal? HELP See pics... -
Let me stress how easy "greasin the splines" are. This is a job I was really putting off, sounded like a lot of work and just more than I wanted to get into. RandyA had been after me to "get it done" so last night was the time. Off work about five and a call to Randy, yes we had everything we needed and he would be on his way. About six I was in the shop taking off the saddle bags and getting tools out. Off with the rear caliper and muffler, out with the cotter pin and off with the castle nut on the rear axle, even had to fight the rear light bar but not bad. With the help of Randy and the center stand, lean the bike over and out comes the rear wheel and tire. 4 bolts and washers and the rear end is removed, a pull and I'm holding the drive shaft. So good so far, a little cleaning and grease application and re-assembly starts. Now the part that had me worried - putting the drive shaft back in - the horror stories about how difficult it was to get it reseated! My first attempt doing it "my way" was a wash out. Laying on the floor I look up and see the sly grin of Randy staring down at me, he says "Want me to show you the trick", I reply "Well it's evident my way didn't work". He hands me a small pair of needle nose vise grip pliers and tells me clamp onto the gear end of the shaft, will not damage the gear, just tight enough to hold on to it. Slide the shaft in until it stops, now push down and the rear of the shaft, lifting the nose end with the splines and push it in. :wow:the things goes right in !!! My attempt and his took all of two minutes !!! Put it all back togeather, put the luggage back on talk about Asheville Rally, drink some water, compare light bars, talk about life and solve all the worlds problems. Hey, we got motorcycles what are we standing around talking for. lets gear up and ride. 8:00 PM ride with a good friend - what more can you ask for.... Thanks, Randy for all the help with "Tent Peg" Steve Neal P.S. Grease those splines NOW the drive shaft you save may be your own !
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While removing my rear wheel to have a new tire put on, I decided to lube the drive shaft end that goes into the pumpkin. I have lubed the shaft end that went into the U-joint, but was never able to get the shaft out of the pumpkin end. The oil seal was stuck. I slide a mechanics pick around the oil seal and it came right out. However, I noticed the pinion was really loose. I could move it around - axially - by an 1/8 inch or so. Not good. Showed it to the mechanic at the local dealer and he agreed the nose bearing is likely shot. I typically replace the rear drive fluid every time I change the oil. The last several changes I noticed a good sized ball of shavings on the magnetic plug. Now I know where these shavings are coming from. Took the rear drive apart and the pinion nose bearing is shot. Unfortunately, the outer race is worn down so far there is not a shoulder to press against to remove it. Heated the race hosing with a butane torch and it tried to move it, but no go. The inner race on the pinion nose looks frosted (micro tearing of the metal, soon leading to full spalling). OK, bottom line - I need a rear pumpkin. Anyone have one available they would like to sell? Guess the KLR is going to see some additional miles over the next few weeks. RR
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Well, I was doing some regular maintenance on QuickSilver the other day, just getting ready for the Ohio Carnival next week, and while I had the rear wheel off to change the tire I figured it was about time to finally check the drive shaft for lube. I know some folks here think this needs to be done every two weeks or so , but not me! I haven't pulled the drive shaft even once in 80,000 miles, and from what I saw, there really wasn't much need to do it now. There was not a ton of grease in there, but enough. It was clear that Yamaha used a moly grease when they put it together, and there were no visible signs of abnormal wear. So I just added a touch more 5% moly and put it all back together for another 80,000 miles. It really wasn't too hard to get the drive shaft back in the U-joint with the help of another member who just happened to be around while I was working (THANX Formerfuzz!). The trick was to simply put the transmission in gear and have someone else turn the final drive gears while I held the drive unit and tried to generally center the shaft on the U-joint. Here's a tip for when you get ready to do this - first, pull the drive hub/fingers from the rear wheel (which you should be doing to lube the drive fingers anyway), and use that hub for your helper to turn the gears/drive shaft while you hold the drive unit and try to insert the drive shaft into the u-joint. After you get the drive housing back in place, you can finish greasing the drive fingers and putting the hub back in the wheel. Since I hadn't done this before and I had already greased up the drive hub, I just wrapped a rag around a 2x4 and jammed it into the drive splines to turn the gears. Goose -
I'm trying to stop a slow oil drip that appears to be coming from the left side of the crank/trans case. So I'm going to replace the clutch shaft oils seal (93109-08061-00), and the shift shaft oil seal (93102-12106-00, (SD 12-22-5 HS)). I was also gonna shim any loose or worn areas while I was in there. Is there anything else I should be looking at down there that may be causing the drip? I don't want to be having to crack open things any more than I have to. Thanks, Bill
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I,ve been reading in the book that the engine oil also is used for the culch but is it also for the trans... And while i,m at it is the bearings on the shaft sealed or do I grease them....So much to learn Ron (Whistler:cool10:)
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I have the 89 VR apart for entire maint on the rear end. When I unbolt the 4 crown nuts on the rear gear case what am I to expect when I pull the driveshaft out of the swing arm? Like, will just the shaft come out or will the seal washer and circlip from the front come out as well ? A LOT OF HELP PLEASE !!!!
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I was looking through the AMSOIL brochure and found Amsoil Spray Grease. See the link for specific details of this grease. http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/glcspray.aspx Anyway a though occured to me and I am wondering what you think about this idea. Would this or similair grease, but a spray type grease being sprayed into the access port on top of the engine side drive shaft knuckle/driveshaft gear be sufficient lubrication? Even if you would do it a couple times/year. I have never looked into this port yet but all of the posts say you can feel the knuckle that accepts the shaft end so spraying this grease, maybe with tube on the end of the spray can to direct the grease better should get it on the gearing. Granted this is no substitute for a complete lube job tear down but maybe in between lubing when the tire doesn't need to be taken off, could it be effective? Or is this grease simply not suitable for this type of application? What do you all think???
