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ctraylor

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Everything posted by ctraylor

  1. No Gearhead I didn't take any pictures, sorry, but I did gut the entire muffler. I just cut about a 8 inch C in the back and bent it down. I had to drill out a few tack welds to open the window and used a small cutting torch to gut the inside. You have to be careful not to heat the shell or you will blue the chrome. The one on the very rear of the muffler you just drill out the tack welds, which are on the back of the muffler, cut off the very end of the muffler and pull of the tip. Then you can cut off the very rear baffle. You may want to leave this rear one on if you want it a little quiter. It gives a good tone with all the baffles out but is suprisingly quit at cruising speeds. All the welds are on the back side of the muffler and are not visible. This is the second one I have owned and done this way.
  2. Thank you gear head, I was afraid I might loose some oil pressure by removing this. We have a machine shop here on campus and I think I will try to make my own. It doesn't look to complicated.
  3. I took both of my mufflers off and used a cut off grinder and cut a hole on the back side of the mufflers and gutted the insides and welded back up. You can't see the weld and sounds great.
  4. I am wanting to install the spin on oil filter adapter and have one question. On the original canister type the bolt has some type of pressure regulator in the bolt. Does these adapter plates have this valve or does the bike really need it? I would love to add this to my bike but was afraid of damage to the bike by eliminating this valve.
  5. I made mine my self for about 50.00 total. This is not hard to do I think I have a link in here somewhere that explains how to do it. I ride year round and wear the heated jacket under my coveralls. I have it wired to a toggle switch and it pulls about 4 amps according to my calculations and it toasty warm. The output is about 50 watts.
  6. You don't have to drain the oil back out. Just take the filter off and the spring goes under the filter. All the oil you will loose is what is in the filter.
  7. ME TOO!!!!!! ME TOO!!!!!!!!
  8. Castrol in everything I own and never any problems.
  9. You have to be careful because some synthetics will make the clutch slip. I have been using Castrol 20/50 for years and have had really good luck with it.
  10. I made mine and it works great. The reason for the teflon coated wire is that it will withstand a higher temperature. I used 30 gauge multistrand teflon coated wire. It cost a little more but is more durable than the solid core wire and more pliable. I have yet to install an reastat because if it gets too hot I just turn it off for a while. You must use at least 30 foot or it will be too hot. This wire has 1 ohm resistence per 10 foot and will will generate about 50 watts of heat and pull about 3 to 5 amps I think. I have a thread in here somewhere that gives all the mathmatical equasions for figuring amperage and watts of heat.
  11. I had a good idea and showed it to 86er when he was in Arkansas. I ordered a trunk back rest to match the one on my 86 VR off ebay. I cut a square piece of sheet metal and attached it to the Yamaha driver back rest on my bike now both match and it is alot more comfortable. Had to grind the rivets out of the bracket of the small back rest to bolt on the larger rest. Just an idea....
  12. Every electrical connection I make I soldier and shrink wrap afterwards. It takes a little longer but will last forever.
  13. I will be at the Doubletree Club Hotel on W. Sunset Ave. on Sat. night.
  14. I should get there around mid day on saturday and will spend the night in Springdale. That's the only place I could find a room and then had to spend 134.00 a night. I will be riding an 86 VR. Curtis Traylor Mountain Home, AR
  15. It was great to meet you and you always got a place to stay here in Arkansas. Curtis Traylor
  16. I have always used Castrol 20W50 in my bike and had very good results. You have to be careful because some oils will make the clutch slip.
  17. Here is the one I bought and works great for me. http://www.bargainpricewholesale.com/newlemobecup.html
  18. I am getting the famous error message on my suspension control. Where is the board located that you have to resoldier. It is not airing up the front shocks although the pressure shows on the screen.
  19. Thanks for all the help guys. I will take all this to heart and give you a shout back as to what I found.
  20. The engine will go to redline as long as you don't go to wide open throttle. The slides were replaced before I bought it and it belonged to a small man that was scared to ride it so the slides that reduce power make sence. This bike runs like hell as long as you don't go to WOT and then it feels exactly like it has a rev limiter on it no back fire no miss. The open valve issue was that I was checking compression without opening the throttle when I turned the motor. This guy would crank it under his carport and kill it and fouled the plugs. This thing runs great gets 40-42 mpg as long as I keep it around 60 mph.
  21. Already replaced plugs and ran sea foam through twice. I can go to about 75% throttle and it does fine. If I go to WOT, it will stop pulling about 5500 and if I back off the throttle it will come back to life again. I figure it might not be advancing the timeing enough. That is why I was asking where the vacuum switch was. This bike runs great otherwise and I ride it daily, idles fine, does not miss at all. This one is puzzling me.
  22. Yes my red line is 7500 also. It will run to red line and get there quick as long as I don't go to WOT. At WOT it will just fall on it's face at about 5500. I just made a 3000 mile trip with no problems and it wil cruise all day at 80 mph. That is what is puzzling, the problem only surfaces a WOT which is fine with me cause I hardly ever go there but I know the problem is there and it bugs me, if that makes sense to you.
  23. Has anyone ever had a problem with their bike cutting out at wot? Mine runs good up to reline as long as I don't go to wot. It feels like it has a rev limiter at about 5500 rpm. It has no jerking or missing just feels like it falls on its face. I have checked everything except this vacuum timing sensor. Where is it located? Curtis Traylor
  24. I was changing oil in a Ford 9000 semi. I got sidetracked and forgot to drain the oil. I poured in 40 quarts and checked the oil to find it was almost at the top of the tube. That was alot of money to waste.
  25. I have found this site the cheapest I have found. http://www.motorcyclemart.com/tires/dunlop/k491II.htm
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