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Everything posted by ctraylor
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I got my rain suit at Wal Mart and comes in a convient bag and I have had it 4 years now and used it many times and is still like new. Good suit for a reasonable price.
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Don't forget to get someone to hold your sign when you try that thing out.......
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I would say that 30 foot would be the shortest you could use and not be too hot without using some type of resistor. You could use the same equasions to figure the amps. The shorter the wire the lower the resistance and the hotter it gets so you have to lower the voltage by using a resistor.
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ohms is how much resistance the wire has. Ohms law states that Amps equal Voltage divided by resistance 40 foot of this wire has 4 ohm resistance so if you are running 14 volts while traveling down the road, divide 4 into 14 and you get the amperage draw on your battery which is 3.5 amps. This is good to know because you can overload your charging system. It also allows you to know how big a fuse you need. You can also figure how much heat it will generate. Power (watts) equal amps X voltage 3.5 amps X 14 volts equals 49 watts of heat Now going furthur you can figure how many BTUs of heat it will generate. BTU equals watts X 3.413 49 X 3.413 equals 167.24 BTUs of heat will be generated per hour. To put into perspective, imagine how much heat a 50 watt light bulb might generate and you can get a pretty good idea how much heat it will generate. The shorter the wire the more heat it will generate so you will probably need at least 30 foot of wire or it will be too hot. Now a reostat is a divice that will limit the amout of voltage to the coat. In the past you could buy a universal blower motor switch so you change speeds on your heater blower motor. This switch would vary the voltage going to your coat thus turning the heat up and down as needed. I hope this kinda explains the concept to you.
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I think magnet wire is a solid core wire. You need a multi-strand teflon coated wire. The magnet wire isn't coated with teflon. The solid wire is not as flexable as the multi-strand. It took me awhile to find it. The internet site is in a previous post. Shipping and all was 28.00 which is a site cheaper than the $389.00 they want for a Gerbing jacket.
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Hey Hipshot, how do you know where Mt. Ida is? Not many people know that town. I don't think you can get there from where you are.... I used to live about 40 miles from there in Fourche Valley and drove through there on the way to Hot Springs. It is kind of ironic that you would mention those towns. I traveled for 15 years with a gospel quartet and we were based out of Hot Springs.
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I went to Radio Shack first here in town and he acted like he didn't know what I was talking about. I just hate going into a store and talking to someone that doesn't know anything about the product they sell. I found this on the internet and believe me it isn't easy to find there either.
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Made it back guys. Got down in the 30s and I was fine. If anything it was too hot. I have two hot spots that I will address. The wire that runs down the sleeves is just in front of my underarms and when I reach forward to hold the handlebars, it burns my arms. Other than that it is great. I told you wrong on the ohms resistance, it is 1 ohm per 10 foot of wire. Be sure that you keep the wires away from your underarms. I will install a reostat so I can adjust the heat. The faster you go the hotter it gets. I guess the voltage goes up at a higher rpm. Guys this works great you have got to try it.
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I just sowed the wire under the quilting of the jacket. I think I used about 40 feet because I done the sleeves also. I bought a two wire plug from Auto Zone and ran through a toggle switch with a ten amp fuse. I used a tye rap to attach the plug to the coat and just plug it in and turn it on. I ordered the wire from http://www.bulkwire.com/ it is 30 gauge multi-strand teflon coated wire. I think it has about 1 ohm resistance per foot. I don't have a thermostat on it yet but I think I will use a blower motor switch with a built in resistor. I am going to take a 110 mile trip tonight and will let you know how it goes. I is supposed to get down in the 20s.
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Well guys I did it. I ordered some 30 gauge multistranded teflon coated wire and sewed it in my jacket and WOW! It is great. I just ran it through a 10 amp fuse and a switch and plug it in and I have instant heat. I am going to try to ride all winter. Total cost was about $40.00. I bought a second hand work coat at the thrift store for $5.00 and the wire cost $28.00 and the plug and wire was $7.00 to hook up to the battery. I can't believe how warm it is and pulls less than 5 amps from the battery. This is alot cheaper than the $400.00 for a heated jacket.... :cool10:
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Hello, my name is Curtis and I also am a Ventureholic. I own an 83 and just bought an 86 and am looking at a V-Max. Will someone please help me. I can't seem to stop. I told my wife I will soon have PMS. PARKED MOTORCYCLE SYNDRONE...... :confused24: :confused24: :sick:
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Carb designs
ctraylor replied to ctraylor's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
It is all a matter of moving the air. It the one carb will supply as much air as the 4, there should be no horse power loss. I have two ventures and may give this a try this winter and let you know how it goes. Maybe convert the battery cover to a hood scoop???????? -
Carb designs
ctraylor replied to ctraylor's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Fuel injection would be nice but then you would have to deal with the O2 and the fuel pump issue and where to mount the module. I would like to try just one carb and see what happens. Sounds like a good project for this winter. If it works, I will let you know. What do you guys think? :stirthepot: :stirthepot: :confused24: -
Carb designs
ctraylor replied to ctraylor's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
At 8000 rpms the engine is sucking in about 202 cubic feet of air per minute. That is how carbs are rated by cfm. So all you need is a carb rated at or around 202 cfm which is a small 2 barrel carb. Maybe one off a geo metro would work or a small toyota. These engines are 1.3 liter engines which is about the same as a small car engine. I built an intake for a MGB once which had 2 carbs and ran one 2 barrel toyota carb and it ran great. I was just wanting to know if anyone has tried this. You could have a small scoop on the battery cover. It might look pretty cool. -
Carb designs
ctraylor replied to ctraylor's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
According to my calculations, at 8000 rpm the air intake is 202 cfm at 1.10% volumetric effiency(this figure used in racing), and 156 cfm at .85% effiency( this figure used for street cars). You could use a small two barrel carb rated at 250 cfm. Has anyone tried this. It would be alot easier to adjust than 4 carbs. RPM X Displacement / 3456 X Volumetric Effeciency (1.10% for racing and .85% for street. :confused07: :confused07: -
:think: Has anyone ever tried to build a 4 into one intake and use an automotive single carb on these bikes? There would be plenty of room for it. Also does anyone know what the CFMs of all 4 carbs are collectively. Just a thought I have had,
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My trunk has the holes to mount a trunk rack on top of the trunk but I can't seem to find one. Does anyone know where I can locate one? Thanks, Curtis Traylor Mountain Home, AR
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What about the old universal heater blower motor switch. It is basically a potentiometer that varies voltage. It would be easy to install and you can just turn the knob to adjust the intensity. Just a thought, Curtis Traylor