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V7Goose

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Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    First, you must loosen the chrome cap nut on top of the fork cover (and under the handle bar). It is technically possible to make the adjustment without doing this, but NOT recommended. Once that cap nut is loose, there is nothing to prevent the two ring nuts you see in there from turning easily. The two ring nuts will turn together - there is an aluminum tab washer that fits in the notches to prevent one from turning without the other. But that tab washer is not a "lock", as it is not keyed to the shaft. The lock is the friction from the top plate when that cap nut is tightened properly (High torque value). Just a side note for you - although I'd bet your steering head does need adjustment (most do), it is less likely that anything you feel at 65+ is caused by that. I would suspect tires, especially if the rear one is worn much or the front is either a smaller size than stock or has cupping. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    I believe that the black wheels are related to the base color of the bike; therefore, all midnights should have black wheels, and any two-tone with black as one color should be black. Silver or similar light colors like 99 and 05 have gray wheels. I do not know yet what color wheels on MM, 03, etc. One of these days I'll dig into all the pictures and check. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    Lesson 1: A fuse is designed to protect the WIRE, so it should always be smaller than the maximum safe current for everything in the circuit. That way it will blow before the wire or switch overheats and starts a fire. I have never personally seen that specific switch you have, but I'd bet that the wires to it are very small - probably 20 or 22 AWG. Depending on how LONG the total circuit is, those wires should probably not handle more than 5 amps, or 10 amps MAX, so fuse the input wire accordingly. This is the same reason why the aux power plugs on your bike only come with 5 amp fuses from the factory. Lesson 2: By using a relay to switch the lights on and off, you can safely route much larger wire from the power source to the lights and control them with a small wire and switch mounted on the handlebars. Lesson 3: An electrical circuit is only as safe as the smallest/weakest part of the circuit. So when running a high-amp circuit to power something like driving lights or horn, make sure you tap into the power supply at a safe place that can handle the total current, this includes the current that was ALREADY being drawn by the bike PLUS the new load you are adding. In general, this means you never tap into the existing wires. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    Not really. Note that by "primary circuits", we are typically just talking about the idle jets - those are the smallest holes that tend to clog up before anything else in the circuit. Good liquid fuel additives like Seafoam can do wondrous things, but they have one huge limitation - they cannot clean anything that they do not touch. In the case of jets, they cannot do anything at all for one that is completely closed. This is because the jets do not sit submerged in the fuel, so if the cleaner is not being sucked through them while the engine is running, it cannot even touch the deposits. The only reasonable solution is to pull the carbs and remove the pilot jets to spray carb cleaner through them. And while you are in there, make sure to do the main jets too - they have much bigger holes, but they can clog also. Would be really poor to go to all that work and not make sure BOTH jets are clean. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    I do not know much about the 1st gens, but your problems sound to me like you may still have problems with plugged primary circuits. If this is the case, it starts cold from the added "choke" (enriching circuit), and it idles OK because the butterfly valves have been opened enough to suck gas through the main circuits. Although I won't go into the details here, this theory also supports your afterfire problems and the strong smell of gas when cranking hot. It is also telling that your problems started after a winter sit. Start by checking the vacuum at idle - if it is pulling less than 10", that is a strong indication that the butterflies are too far open for the engine speed (meaning that the adjustment is compensating for insufficient fuel from the pilot circuit). Goose
  6. V7Goose
    Thanx to all who have added points of difference - these are all good, and I will eventually incorporate them into a definitive list. I do not think we are interested in the different paint colors, as that is already well documented, but different things being painted, such as the cylinder fins, is significant. I will also try to research which specific years and models had black wheels vs gray. You can help out by adding what color your wheels are. My 05 Silver has gray wheels, but I think my 07 Blue had black wheels. Goose
  7. V7Goose
    This has been discussed numerous times over the years, but no real major threads 'cause there just have not been any significant changes to speak of. I suppose I should go ahead and document them in the tech library, but we'll just start here. I'm not sure if I will remember them all right off the bat, so I hope others will chime in. As I said, there haven't been any really significant changes - certainly no design changes other than cosmetic. 1999 and 2000 models (not sure of the exact cutoff point) had a problem with trunk bottom cracks - there was a recall to fix it with added reinforcement plates. All later bikes have had those plates. 1999 models had a problem with breaking antenna bases - all newer models have used the upgraded antennas. The owner's manuals have changed every year - most changes were not significant, but 1999-2003 models specified 8,000 mile basic service intervals. Starting in either 2004 or 2005, all manuals have specified 4,000 mile intervals. Starting with 2005 (?) all non-midnight RSVs began getting pillow-top seats. ALL years have had a problem with failing rear shocks. In 2005 they added a vent hose to the shock - it did not significantly change the problem, but all bikes now use the newer shock. Starting with 2005 (?) the turn signal lenses changed to clear and the bulbs yellow. In addition, they started using a proprietary 3-prong bulb in the front signals. See discussions on the forum for how to just knock off one prong of the normal 1157 bulb so you do not have to waste money on the new ones. Starting with 2006, each year has gotten a different tank badge. Starting in 2009 (I think), Yamahaha started making the ridiculously priced and space hogging optional CD changer stock, meaning they bike came with the cables already in place. I suspect they only did this 'cause they probably never sold more than two or three as an option, and they just wanted to clear them out of the warehouse. Also a ruse to raise the price a bit - cant sell the option? - just make them buy it with the bike! There have been some minor carb changes I think, indicated only by changing part numbers. I have never seen the changes documented. That is all I can think of for now. ALL newer parts that may have been upgraded/modified over the years are applicable to any year RSV (or 2005 and later RSTD, as appropriate). Goose
  8. V7Goose
    Dave, you have basically described typical operations when you are at max electrical load on this machine. When the temps are below 60, the difference between in and out of gear is simply the carb heaters (that's 60 watts of extra load). The carb heaters only come on when the bike is in gear. Under most conditions, the carb heaters do not stay on very long - the temp sensor is mounted very close to the rear header, and after the engine is up to temp, the carb heaters will always be off at the outside temperatures that most folks care to ride. However, if the outside temp is in the 30s or low 40s, and especially if there is a cold cross wind, you will find the heaters coming on fairly often. For example, in one 34 degree winter morning ride up in the panhandle, I found the carb heaters would go off after about 20 minutes of riding below 45, but as soon as I got up to highway speeds, they came back on. When I had to slow down in town, they would shut off again fairly quickly. I also found that when I was riding so that the icy cross wind was blowing in from the right front (onto the temp sensor), the carb heaters would stay on even in slow speed riding. I do not know if you are using stock 30W driving lights, but if you have upgraded them, that is a major problem under those conditions if you use heated clothing too. I suggest you put a switch back on those lights. If your are using a properly wired relay, the switch should be in the relay coil circuit. When installed correctly, you only need a small capacity switch, and it is totally impossible for it to ever have an impact on the available current to the lights. Goose
  9. V7Goose
    The CB and the main radio are completely separate units - they both can be used together (the Aux input is just part of the radio). Whenever the CB receives a signal and "breaks" the squelch, the radio is muted. I know absolutely nothing about the Buddy Rich cable. On a slightly related note - the intercom is also separate from both the radio and CB - BUT, at least one of them must be on for the IC to work! If you only want the IC audio, turn on the radio and turn the volume down to zero (the IC has its own volume). Goose
  10. V7Goose
    Earl, I am sorry that you are upset with me, but I guess we are just going to have to disagree. I don't spell check anybody's posts but my own. I do not care if your spelling or grammar is wrong - those things are generally immaterial. Your point about understanding why someone should choose a specific tire is absolutely valid. BUT, when a statement is made in a post that could have dangerous consequences to an inexperienced rider who takes it as fact, then I think it is imperative that ANYONE who recognizes the problem correct it for the benefit of all. It is one thing for someone to deliberately decide to overload their vehicle - that is their decision and they are accepting the risk; however, it is quite another thing to have them falsely believe that they are no longer overloading the vehicle just because they changed the tires. As for your comment that perhaps I should share some of my knowledge in my posts..., I'm quite nonplussed. I think I have gone far and away further than probably 90%+ of the members here to do just that, but I am doing less and less now simply because it just ain't worth dealing with this sort of thing. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    I do not want anyone believing that fitting a higher load rated tire on a motorcycle increases the load capacity of the bike - this is NOT true, and even the thought of it has potential to be very DANGEROUS. The load capacity of any vehicle is defined by the Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW), which is the TOTAL acceptable weight of the vehicle, including all fluids, people, accessories, cargo, and hitch weight. In addition to the GVW number, there is also a gross axle weight specification, which is more important to determining the required tire load rating. The GVW is specified by the manufacturer and is based on many things, but primarily frame strength, suspension components, bearing design,and BRAKE design. The load capacity of the STOCK tires, as designated by the vehicle manufacturer, is generally selected to accommodate the already determined GVW of the vehicle. In fact, the actual load capacity of the recommended tires is generally GREATER than the GVW limit, so selecting any tire with a higher load capacity does NOTHING to safely increase the load capacity of the vehicle! The ONLY thing that higher load rated tires do for you is provide an extra margin of safety for the tires only, meaning that if you chose to deliberately overload your bike beyond the specified safety limits, any failure or damage probably will not be in the tires. Bottom line is that using higher load rated tires do have a bit of value in reducing the risk of catastrophic tire failure, but they do NOT increase the load capacity of the vehicle. And if you do not OVERLOAD the bike, any value from the higher load rating is insignificant. Note also that the stock tires (71H front, 74H rear) already have a total load capacity 300 lbs greater than the GVW for the RSV, so even though many of us regularly run this bike overloaded, the stock tires are STILL completely safe for just about anything you could possibly pile on. And the Avon and Dunlop E3 tires that most of us seem to use have even higher load ratings in stock sizes. Just do not be fooled into thinking that somehow these higher load rated tires are somehow increasing the safe load capacity of the bike - they do not. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    Uh, I don't think so - maybe I just forgot ever saying that, but it is not something I believe. I would actually be very surprised to find any shim that measured different from the markings on it. On the other hand, I DO absolutely believe that it is important to carefully measure the clearance both BEFORE changing any shim and again AFTER changing any shim to make sure the change produced the correct clearance. Maybe this caused the confusion? Goose
  13. V7Goose
    'cause the regulator on a compressor is NOT a precision instrument. At the bottom end of the scale, you will be lucky if the 7'b reading is not really 20 lbs. But go ahead, give it a try - hey, it's your bike. Some folks have claimed they pumped the forks up to 40 lbs without blowing the seals Hard for me to believe, but since I won't try it on my own bike, I guess I just have to take their word for it. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    If your bike is still under warranty, or was when you had it "fixed" the first time, I strongly suggest you do NOT touch that part yourself. Considering the possibility of oil/coolant mix in this part, you do not want to give them any chance at all to blame you! You want to make sure Yamahaha stays 100% responsible for any greater engine damage that could be caused by this problem. Force Yamahaha to fix it right. And keep a close eye inside the oil filler cap AND the coolant overflow tank for any signs of foam! Goose
  15. V7Goose
    Thank you sir, for the correction - you are of course correct. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    Whoops! I gave BAD info - corrected below. Yes, that "twinkie" is the crankcase breather, but there IS coolant in it. The white lines are certainly suggestive of dried coolant, but if they have actually been cleaned off and then come back after you see the drips, it could be coming from somewhere else and dripping down on top of the breather. but from where the various leaks seem to show in the photos, it looks a lot more like it is coming from under the cap than dripping on it and running around the edge. And yes, the early model 2007s did have a service bulletin issued for improperly torqued head bolts. Your problem could be a leaking head gasket that is dripping down from above. I'd start by taking off the fin covers and making sure everything is dry and clean all round the head gasket area. Then spray the gasket joint with spray foot powder - it will immediately show any moisture leakage. If none shows up right away, just ride the bike normally and/or let it sit - whatever you have been doing - and check the powder frequently until the leak shows up. I have no idea why there is coolant in the breather, but I loosened the clamp on the small hose and saw it for myself. Even though the problem could be the head gasket as I suggested, I'd bet money on a bad breather - either warped cover or bad gasket. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    I do not know what shop was involved in this case, but as far as I am concerned, there is only one shop Yamaha shop in the DFW area that I like and trust - that is Stadium Yamaha in Irving on 183. In my experience, these people are both very honest and very good. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    The failure part of these shocks is the OIL seal, and yes, you will know if it fails. The air part of the shock increases the spring strength, and it is very important to many of us. The easy adjustability of spring rate for different loads is very nice. I personally do not think this bike with stock suspension would ride acceptably at all for anything more than a solo rider weighing less than 200 lbs. The oil part of the shock provides the damping, keeping it from bottoming out too soon from fast bumps and stopping the rebound without a pogo effect. When the shock goes bad, it will bounce all over the road. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    As Don already stated, the bikes have not changed since 1999, and AFAIK, they have never produced a new service manual. The one we have includes lots of errors, but it gets the job done. As to the service interval, the first three years or so were set at 8,000 miles (see the individual user manuals); that's why the 1999 shop manual uses the 8,000 mile interval. Somewhere around 2003 they changed it to 4,000 mile intervals. Since the bikes didn't change, I always suggest that even early RSV owners follow the shorter interval unless they are running synthetic oil. A dealer advising 3,000 mile intervals is just clearly announcing his desire to steal from his customers. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    Please check your tire sidewalls - Do Not, EVER, over inflate your tires!!! (Note that the rear Dunlop E3 on this bike has a maximum pressure of 40 psi.) Running any tire at maximum pressure, as stamped right on the sidewall, will generally produce maximum tire mileage. However, it does NOT always produce best handling. Running any tire at higher pressure than stamped on the sidewall is ALWAYS unsafe. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    What does your REAR tire look like? If it has developed a somewhat square profile from wear (flat across the middle), it will cause this. Another big cause is pressure too low. A lowering kit will absolutely cause it - in fact, one the biggest improvements to the handling of the STOCK RSV (besides good tires) is to RAISE the rear of the bike. A lowering kit just takes a bad situation and makes it worse. If your rear brake caliper is below the swing arm, it has been lowered. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    That parts breakdown you referenced in your last post is for a V-Star, not a Royal Star. You can access all the correct parts breakdowns directly from Yamahaha's web site for free. http://www.starmotorcycles.com/partviewer/default.aspx?ls=star Frankly, the SS relay assembly is the only possibility I could find (since there is no side stand relay, I figure it must be the diode, but the key is to find it and verify the wire colors). Goose
  23. V7Goose
    It is a safety item. All rubber breaks down over time. For brake lines, this causes two serious problems - the lines begin expanding with pressure, giving the brakes a less positive feel and requiring more pressure for full lock. Secondly, the brake fluid absorbs more moisture through the old rubber, making the whole poor brake thing much much worse if the fluid is not changed regularly. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    Just a couple of more thoughts for you - the SS switch has both a blue/yellow and a black wire - make sure the black wire has good continuity to ground. It would be a real drag if you spent lots more time on this only to eventually find that the whole problem was a bad ground to the switch. Also, maybe I have figured out a tie-in between the problem and the test of your cruise control - the SS switch wires seem to run into the lower left cowling - not sure, since I have not pulled the cowling today to look, and I have never had an issue with this circuit, but it is worth a close inspection of everything in there. The vacuum motor for the cruise control cable is inside the lower left cowling, so I can see the possibility that something is routed wrong or loose in there, and the activation of the cruise motor could have damaged a wire or caused a plug connection to come loose. This is an even more likely possibility when you realize that any time one of these bikes is down, the crash bar on the down side is often bent back. Worth a close look. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    Well, you have pretty much found your problem then. If you have already determined that the side stand switch has continuity when the stand is up, then you problem is either a bad diode #12 or a connector problem between the side stand switch and the ignition switch. Unfortunately, I do not know where the diode is located on the bike. The only real option is to physically trace the wires from the switch until you find a two pin plug with a blue/white wire going in from the SS switch and a blue/yellow wire going out to the ignition switch. This plug will be the diode. Goose
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