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CaptainJoe

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Everything posted by CaptainJoe

  1. CaptainJoe
    I can live with my wine:whistling: Seriously... it only occurs between 55 and 60 and I rarely travel at those speeds. like Buddyrich stated... it's the rear shock that BLOWS!
  2. CaptainJoe
    SilverT "When you create a new thread, scroll down and you will see where/how to create it as a poll. Go for it .... " I could do that but... If one of the moderators did it, more people(hundreds?) would be apt to reply. If I do it, I would only get a couple of dozen responces.... As you can see there are only five responces since this was posted... It was just a thought...
  3. CaptainJoe
    Perhaps a poll is warranted(pun intended)... for second gen rear air shocks, asking if your rear shock went out before the 5 year warranty, and if so, how many times was it replaced? AT HOW MANY MILES YEARS? would be good to know what percentage of our organization has this problem?.... would be good ammo when addressing the yamaha customer service reps and just might force them to address the problem(use a better replacement shock).
  4. CaptainJoe
    You'd think after 12+ years of having to replace a Hundreds?/thousands? of shoddy rear second gen air shocks, Yamaha would wise up and change to a better shock? I bought my 07 bike last March (482 miles on bike) and went to fill up rear shock and nothing... it leaked out in 60 seconds... took in to have radio and windshield replaced(cracked) and rear shock checked. don't know what they did but it holds pressure for a littlle while but the bike does not raise? they will be getting back this winter to put a new shock in. Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm..... Perhaps a poll is warranted(pun intended)... for second gen rear air shocks, asking if your rear shock went out before the 5 year warranty, and if so, how many times was it replaced? would be good to know what percentage of our organization has this problem?.... would be good ammo when addressing the yamaha customer service reps and just might force them to address the problem(use a better replacement shock). Just a thought...
  5. CaptainJoe
    1. check with your insurance co. to see if it can be insured 2. take a magnet (low strength refrigerator type) and see if it sticks to all outer edges roof top quater panels fenders hood(you said it rolled) if it does'nt stick...indicates BONDO!!! If the repaired right, they would have replaced the steel body panels... The thing that would worry me the most is the wheel alignment.... if the frames bent, you'll go thru tires quicker than toilet paper...
  6. CaptainJoe
    I'm in a red 3/4 ton chevy with a white v-nose trailer See ya tomorrow... Pm'ed ya my cell phone no...
  7. CaptainJoe
    Am in Shoshoni Wy at the Desert Inn motel on rt 20 about 90? miles south of cody. Will be in Cody sometime before noon tomorrow. Was in Casper for an extended 2 1/2 hrs trying to find someone to replace my catalytic converter.... no go... will have to find someone in Cody to fix while we're riding... Oh well ... if that's the worst thing that happens on this trip it shall be a Good one...LOL Had a backup plan of leavng the bike and trailer where I was at the time and riding rest of the way on bike whilst they fixed it... Note.... Tom... the route from casper to cody (rt 20) so far has been pretty remote. make sure you fill up and check everything out before you start out... pretty much about 100 miles of nothing...not even cell phone serice...till you hit shoshoni... If ... you would like me to wait here, you should be passing by around 9ish? I'm in room 119 and the Desert Inn Motel is 100 miles? north of Casper on rt 20 located at the end of shoshoni on your left... Let me know Joe
  8. CaptainJoe
    Am in Moline,Illinois at the motel 6 right off of 74/280.... Gonna trailer it the whole way as its hotter than hades out there 105 to 115! Rolled the window down and damn it was HOT! Didn't do that again...LOL
  9. CaptainJoe
    Your in the same boat i'm in... can you have shipped to cody? and have Mountain valley motorsports install? I'm gonna wiait till they open this morning and see if they can do it... and how much?
  10. CaptainJoe
    the other plan C would be to mount my front E3 and order another from jake wilson and have it sent to Cody. That way I could ride my venture out... Wonder how much they would charge me to mount it? Hummmm Will have to wait till they open this morning.... I believe it was mountain valley motorsports...
  11. CaptainJoe
    "If its a stick, and especially if its an auto, you better figure on running it in 4th or whatever gear is NOT overdrive. Those things werent designed to haul a 1500-2000 pound trailer up and down hills and grades, and if the trailer does NOT have brakes, be careful on the downgrades. " Yup... kinda concerns me also. Plan B is to fix the clutch in the 650 Vstar and trailer it out. Would save 500 lbs or so. Haven't tore side cover off, am hoping steel plates aren't fried... I've got the springs and friction plates on my workbench... we'll see after a trial run....
  12. CaptainJoe
    Thats what i was thinking ! The trees are hiding the other half of those golden arches!
  13. CaptainJoe
    Here it is...
  14. CaptainJoe
    Man this heat is killing me... Been working on this trailer since noon. 6 1/2 hours bout have it back together again. Condor It"s my own fault... procastenated getting car Tire put on rear and when that didn't pan out I Was out of time. Gonna order a E3 for the rear when I get back. Already got the new front E3. Hunthomer66 thought of that but the way everyone is so sue happy i decided to buy store bought... REEESE! Actually I've got everything I need to make one cept for the solid square 1 1/4... also a concern for hardnening? Utahadventure I know....LOL... Its just that the tires only have about 2000 miles left on them or less. Im gonna finnish them off in Wyoming!
  15. CaptainJoe
    I wear ATGATT but why in the hell don't they make it in lighter colors... your choices are Black, Black, Black oh yeah, then theres the neon colors... Green or yellow
  16. CaptainJoe
    Yours is a U2: U2 SUMITOMO RUBBER INDUSTRIES, LTD.SHIRAKAWA CITYFUKUSHIMA PREFECTURE JAPAN Heres where it's made using the harringer link and the letters DA (first two letters after DOT) DA DUNLOP TIRE CORPORATION BUFFALO NEW YORK UNITED STATES Heres a pic of my new E3:
  17. CaptainJoe
    "ok this may or may not work and how safe it may be I dont know either. I was at harbor frieght today and seen two pieces that may do the job for you. They had an adaptor that turned the 1 1/4 into a 2 inch reece set up/ Then they had a 2 inch shaft that was adjustable from -9 inches to + 10 or so inches. I have the hitch shaft that is adjustable and I pull trailer with 4 wheeler on it just fine behind my van. Again not sure of safety or weather it would work but its an idea." It would have worked "if" there was enough clearance between the top of the Uhaul hitch on the car and the rear bumper. There might be 1/2" above the bar? With all the equiptment around here and as much hauling I do there is no lack of 2" adjustable towing bars around. Thanks for the though though. A 6 1/2 " bar hitch riser would be the ticket ... but it seems no one makes them. 3 1/8" rise on a 1 1/4 shank is max for the Toyota Corolla... Oh, let me add that that hitch thats bolted to the car is 11"high and about 6" away from the outside of it's rear bumper... The way their designing these cars nowadays is not with towing considerations in mind...
  18. CaptainJoe
    Will post some tomorrow.... want to stay away from any of those flooded rivers out west... LOL
  19. CaptainJoe
    Well no#6 isn't gonna work so... Purchased a 1 1/4" class one reese hitch bar 3.125 riser. Purchased the longest shaft 2" ball they had. So now i have a 4.125 or 4 1/8" rise. Still need around +3 inches as the reciever on the car is 11" and the reciever on the level trailer is 17 1/2 . Goiing to drop main support below front of trailer to gain the 3" and extend it a couple of feet so i can attach to the middle of the trailer. Doing this by the way to have a cheap way to haul the RSV... Yeah yeah yeah i know i know i know.... I've got a 5' x 16' VNOSE trailer that would work just fine but.... 1800 mi x 10 mi to the gallon 3/4 ton pickup and trailer and bike. =180 gallon gas x3.70(if I'm lucky) =666 ------------------ No I infatically deny I made this number up --------------------- x 2 ( i gotta come home) $1332 The toyota corolla gets 35 MPG so maybe 25 mpg. hauling the bike so $532.8 Just a PIA because the corollas hitch is 11"
  20. CaptainJoe
    "I have a 12 Technical Bulletins and do not see any thing about the bent shaft. Probably more, but this is all I have located. Think they are all 1st gen related. Gary " Glad you said that and not me...LOL
  21. CaptainJoe
    Thanks for the info Lone Eagle. I just notified my credit union of the upcoming trip to Cody and they wrote it up on the system. I also signed up for email notification "every time" my credit or check cashing card is used... That way Penny will also be able to see where I'm at... I've wanted to do this for a while, but you know what they say about procastination... I'm ready to ride clyde...
  22. CaptainJoe
    Fortunately, tire manufacturers give the game away by stamping a date code in the tire sidewall. This is in the form of three numbers, for example “475” on the sidewall of a Dunlop K70 on my 1970 Bonneville. These characters are usually preceded by “DOT” and a bunch of other letters. More on that later. Before 2000 the date is indicated by two numbers for the week and one for the year in the decade. In the case of my 475 Bonnie hoop, the tire was made in week 47 of 1995. How do I know it was ‘95, not ‘85 or even ‘75? For the 1990s only, a small triangle was used as a suffix to indicate that decade. Before 1990, you’re on your own. And you probably should have tossed them by now anyway. From 2000 on, the code is four digits long (though some manufacturers didn’t start stamping four numbers until late in that year); and so, for another example, my Sprint ST’s back tire is a “4704,” created in week 47 of 2004. Simple stuff – after 1990, that is. I have a pile of older rubber awaiting disposal in the back of the Big Shed with year codes that could indicate manufacture in either the Disco or Glam Rock era, but I can’t tell. Now to the longer DOT designation. The Sprint ST’s front skin reads “DOT ENYO VLK 1704.” We’re interested in the first two letters after DOT and the date code. The remaining characters identify the size and type of tire using codes specific to the manufacturer. The first two letters designate the factory where the tire was made. Using a comprehensive list of manufacturer codes found at(http://www.harriger.com/tires.htm), I learned “EN” means the tire was made at Bridgestone-Firestone’s Kurosio-Shi factory in Tochigi-Ken, Japan, during week 17 of 2004. Similarly, the rear Michelin Macadam on my Laverda Mirage is stamped “DOT HBBN 188T 4002.” So it was made in week 40 of 2002 by Michelin’s S.A.F.E.N.M. subsidiary in Lasarte, near Bilbao in Spain.. So now you’ve really got no excuse. You can confirm the age of your tire using the date code, and you can even tell where it was made. But if in doubt, replace! http://www.roadrunner.travel/article-6336.php *Note* Sorry, corrected fist link to harringer tire codes... it was wrong from the articule. I should have tested it before posting here... OOps!
  23. CaptainJoe
    Perhaps The E3's are different.... my E3's don't have an 8 digit code anywhere on the left hand side of the tire ... just a 4 digit 2411 24th week of 2011.
  24. CaptainJoe
    mines either 2611 or 2311... so i guess I'm good to go! its not the white ink but the 4 digit week/year in the molded oval on the tire...
  25. CaptainJoe
    hummmmmmmmmmm... Just got one from Jake Wilson yesterday... guess I'd better check the date:detective:
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