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LilBeaver

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Everything posted by LilBeaver

  1. LilBeaver
    List price is meaningless. Some sell for above, some sell for below. My local dealer told me they could have one to me for ~440 (before tax). BUT, I agree that if the price gets much closer, or if one has to replace this dumb thing more than once the works shock basically paid for itself.
  2. LilBeaver
    Nice work, looks good! By the way, Welcome to the site
  3. LilBeaver
    Under the lock cover on the gas cap could be viewed with a mirror (which is where the key code is on my bike). On mine, the inside of the saddle bags under the black cover that covers the latch mechanism imprinted on the latch mechanism is the key code for the bag locks. If all of the locks are original, the codes ought to match. Contacting the dealer to look up with VIN, etc. is also a good way to go (As Ruffy suggested)
  4. LilBeaver
    Terrific! Thanks again
  5. LilBeaver
    Just wondering where 'we' are at in this process. No hurry here, just curious. That is, have you put in the order yet or are you going to give people a few more days to get their orders in to you? Again, no rush here - I'm just curious
  6. LilBeaver
    don't get me wrong, I like my tools and I am easily distrac... *ooo shiny object*.... ted by shiny objects. But function is my concern.
  7. LilBeaver
    I use my Stebel for the good bye wayes. Some of those waves also including reminding people that I think they are number 1... To address your question, someone on here (I looked a little and couldn't find it) actually rigged up two horn buttons (that looked decently stock) just for the purpose that you described. I believe it was on a first gen though and they used part of a switch housing off of a parts bike and installed it just below the current switch. Thinking about it, I think with the relay that one uses in the wiring of the bigger horn and a simple toggle switch, one could probably setup a system that would allow you to turn on and off the activation of the extra loud one with the flick of a switch. In fact, you've got me thinking here - I might sit down and try to come up with a few possibilities for that, just for kicks. Just a thought:
  8. LilBeaver
    This is Rick Butler's tech article on the rear shock http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2220
  9. LilBeaver
    Ben: I've done a lot of reading about this lately for the exact same reasons that you are thinking about here. From what I found, the Works Progressive shock is pretty much the only replacement. From what I was seeing it was somewhere between 600-800 ish. Through some online sources like partshark.com I was able to find a rear shock (OEM) for ~450 or so. Just do a search for "rear shock" or similar strings, and you can find all sorts of good info on it. Summary of what I found is that a bad shock can: 1) Hold air but no oil 2) Hold oil but not air (seems to be more rare) 3) not hold either It also seems that the bike will be driveable (some have driven for a few months and it is ride-able). Also, with the construction of this rear shock, it is my understanding that it is not serviceable. Meaning that one cannot change the oil in it, if they wanted to and also that fails it cannot be rebuilt. I know there are some folks around here that have much more knowledge of these things than I do. Rick Butler wrote a little piece in the tech section (I think ) regarding the construction and whatnot that I found very informative. It included a basic diagram showing a cross-section of the shock and whatnot. I know others will probably chime in with much more useful information, but this is what I have found with some searching...
  10. LilBeaver
    Due to all of the ice we are getting right now, I will reserve comments on this... Other than I think he owes a few $$$ I guess if one is going to lay it down, that is the way to do it. Nice and easy...
  11. LilBeaver
    I believe that what you are looking for are called "Proximity Alerts". Under the main menu, look for 'settings' then general, then proximity alerts. This might be what you are looking for. Then next thing to check would be to see if you have any points of interest loaded to begin with. Check out the 'find' menu to see if you can see anything nearby. If you canot, you need to download the 'point of interest loader' from the Garmin site (or, if you have it, the "City select" or "map source" software that comes with [some] Garmin units. (If you do not have the software then the points of interest loader is a free download from garmin.com). It has been a while since I have used one of these particular units, but I can see about getting a hold of a friend of mine that has one tomorrow if you still cannot figure it out. They might be able to help you out with this.
  12. LilBeaver
    You read that correctly. It isn't a full out lounge on the passenger seat, but enough to stretch my legs, arms and back out a wee bit. (On my wing I can drive comfortably from the passenger seat... but the controls are right below the driver too, so that helps). http://bigsmilingmonkey.com/wp-content/themes/inove/img/big-smiling-monkey.gif *Ahem* back on topic...
  13. LilBeaver
    First of all - if the mounts for the backrest are not the same for the RSV and RSTD, Utopia does sell one for both, so you ought to be able to get one with no problem. Disclamer: My comments are from my experience on my RSV and what I remember from folks discussing their experience on the RSV. Hopefully it is applicable for you. I know we have some big guys around here, I am not one of them (a whole whopping 5'8" but a 32" inseam) some have complained about their knees hitting the bars, but a quick bend in the backrest support fixes that (I'll let them fill in with more info as they see fit). I too, worried about being 'pushed forward' too far. I picked up a Utopia backrest from a fellow member on here (thanks again Ron ). I have been very happy with it so far. I ended up bending the bracket a little bit to get it to be positioned (with the adjustments that I wanted) but it was no big deal. The only two things I will miss are 1) not being able to sit on the passenger seat while riding solo (on longer trips) and 2) Certain female passenger(s) not sitting extra close to me while riding (it is easy on-easy off though so this one can be quickly remedied). What I will not miss: 1) the back pain that I would experience due to my terrible posture and lack of lumbar support when riding (even short rides) I'm pretty sure you won't be disappointed and if you are, I am sure someone on here would be willing to take it off of your hands. Hopefully someone of a comparable height will chime in with some more useful information for you though. *** Utopia link: http://utpr.com/yamahalinks.html
  14. LilBeaver
    I'll be interested in reading your review of the new fronts as well as what you've done with the rear. I have yet to have a real problem with the rear locking up despite having a few 'emergency' stops already BUT if I could get a wider range of play with the rear brake, I would much prefer that. Since that would definitely allow a wider range of control at low speed maneuvering as well as less of a chance of the lock up. but shhhhhh... Don't want any of those chores to sneak up on you - I hate it when THAT happens.
  15. LilBeaver
    Yup yup. Makes a world of difference. Thanks for the reminder!
  16. LilBeaver
    My plan was to drain the fluid, disconnect the line and use compressed air to (gently) blow out the pistons and then go from there. This is good to know, I hadn't considered there being difference like that. Thanks for the input.
  17. LilBeaver
    Earl: The best I could find for a complete seal kit (for both front calipers) was around $33 + a few dollars shipping. I didn't think that was too bad for the complete seal kit. I did take a look at the set that you were offering and have been thinking about that too. If I cannot reuse my pistons I think I'll go with your set for sure since the pistons would run me ~100 for a complete set and you've got quite the deal put together there . (The only downside to that is that my bike will be out of commission for the time it takes me to get those from you...) Thanks, Rick
  18. LilBeaver
    Yea, when I get them out I was planning on polishing them up as well as I can (if I go ahead and reuse them - which at $50 per set and the condition of these, I think I will) I have not removed the pistons yet to inspect anything else and I have not looked very carefully around the piston to really get a good evaluation of the boot itself.
  19. LilBeaver
    I am planning on rebuilding my front calipers as I suspect one of my brakes might be dragging. I pulled the calipers out and upon inspection the pistons were as smooth as can be except for the small section that sticks out of the caliper while in the normal position. Running my finger across them I can feel that they are a little rough. Some of it is just dirt and some might be actual damage to the piston itself. My question is: How much pitting is okay in the caliper piston before it ought to be replaced? It appears that any roughness in the piston itself remains outside the caliper when a set of fresh pads are installed therefore I would presume that it is fine to go ahead and not replace these and just polish them as much as possible before reinstalling in the rebuilt caliper. I have included a few pictures of what I am looking at here - I know it is a little hard to tell, but it was pretty much the best I could do. Also, is there anything else I ought to be checking for on these? I did notice more dirt build up on one of the caliper's pistons than the other, which leads me to believe that something is wrong with that particular caliper (ie leaky seal or something like that). Thanks for putting up with my dumb questions...
  20. LilBeaver
    Thanks Rick.
  21. LilBeaver
    One last question on this stuff. I obviously need the bearings and oil seal. On the fiche I am seeing the part labeled as "collar" (#9. P/N: 90387-22016-00) on the fiche for 2001 RSV found at http://www.partshark.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=39099&category=Motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=2001&fveh=1032 Do I need to replace this collar as well? Thanks all
  22. LilBeaver
    What a load of... "Go buy it yourself"... sheesh.
  23. LilBeaver
    Glad that your friend is okay. Hopefully he'll stay that way and won't find any soreness/bruises etc from this as time goes on.
  24. LilBeaver
    Yikes. I'd definitely shop around. Check with whoever you have your homeowner's (or renters) insurance with as well as your automotive insurance. Sometimes you can get a multiple policy discount. I am currently with progressive, no citations, violations, crashes, claims etc. but still considered a "high-risk driver" due to my age and am paying half of what that is for 2 motorcycles. (Full coverage on my RSV). I realize that a newer vehicle is worth more and whatnot, but wow. That is intense. Shop around and hopefully you'll find something good. (By the way, I know Texas is not Indiana, but I have insured vehicles when I lived in Michigan and Illinois, and for bikes, I have never paid close to that). Good luck friend.
  25. LilBeaver
    Glad things are going well!! I hope that everything continues to go as well and quickly as possible!
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