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piper

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Everything posted by piper

  1. yes first i am taking the back wheel off and look in side (look for scraping)
  2. Yesterday I bushed my 05 RSTD in and out from my driveway and it felt hard. The bike is stiffer rolling wise. Today after my ride doing 45km yesterday it was harder to do the same thing so I parked it and had taken my ladies bike to were I had to go (my mums) I have just now jacked up the bike thinking it mite be the bearings in the wheels but they are rolling ok the but brakes are scrapping. But now it is raining.:250:And yesterday too Has some one have a thought from there it may be coming from. Or am I just getting weaker in my legs
  3. Thanks Rick I like the way the bike handles now think I will leave it where it is
  4. Just bullet holes
  5. Thanks Squeeze
  6. My question is if I shorten the holes centers from 6 x 5/8 say to 6 x 1/2 would it be safe
  7. I feel like a dummy Can some one help me I am having a hard time trying to work out what shims do I buy to give me the clearance of (I want to keep them on the tite side) to save the valvs I have cam were Inlet .11 to.15 Exhorts .16 to .2 Gap ..... 0.08.. ... 0.09..... 0.19....... 0.18 Shims....2.278... 2.282.... 2.275 .....2.278 Thanks
  8. When I greased my rear end I took the axel out and greased it all with Moly 60. When I went to but it back (I have a 05 model) I took the rubber plug off where (CV) u joint is and grabbed it with bent peace of a coat hanger wire and slid the axel back in It worker for me
  9. I have read about the leveling links that were posted on this site. I was not happy about the handling of my bike in car parks and on the roads in the hills, there was a post on how to make the leveling links so I bout some steel and made my own. I made the hole centres’ 169mm apart and installed them. I am very happy with the way my bike handles I will not change them back. I am thinking of making a new pear at 165mm centres’ (the shorter the centres’ the higher the rear) the feeling is of a sports cruiser, I recommend them. Buy them or make your own to make them you need 1" and ¼" by ¼" stainless steel I could not convert this but the length is 202mm and the hole centers are 169mm with 10mm holes http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=492 hear is the link I followed hope this helps you.
  10. So it is ok to run .03 thinner one of the intake is at .08
  11. Well I done my first valve check it took me 2 days but I also took my time. I was surprised of some of the inlet gaps spaces between the cams and the shims .08mm and .09mm the manual say .11mm to .15mm. I checked them 3 times, same spacing each time so I did not change any shims. I have kept a record of what is there at the moment the bike is running fine. There was wear on the each sides of the cam lobes where they hit, at the contact point and the realise point they look like they are scraping on the shims edges. Last month I perched a reusable stainless steel oil filter and so on the first inception I notices stuck to the magnet some metal bust partials I was a bit concern at the time but now I know that the wear dust is from the cam lobes. This is something that I will be keeping my eye on. What is your opinion about the inlet shims gap as .08mm, .09mm and the .10mm they are all between .08mm and .11mm the exhaust are between .16mm and.19mm in spec the manual says. 16mm to .20mm I am a bit concerned about the inlet gap. Thanks PIPER
  12. I have shortened the center holes on the Leveling link to (converted Inch to MM) 169mm now I would like to shorten the holes distends to 165mm raze the rear about 1/2 inch do you think it will be safe or cone you see a problem Thanks
  13. From first time I found this web site I have learned a lot about my bike a XVZ 1300 ctt. I was frustrated that I could not touch my bike because of the warranty, yes I bout it new November 16th 2006 and today 27 May 2009 I have done 63414km (39,403 mile) with not a fault the warranty hear in Australia is for 2 years only you guys are lucky to have 5 years I have changed the oil every 5000 km (3106 mile) about I have changed on the rear 6 tyres and 5 brake sets 0n the front 4 tyres and 1 brake set throw this site I made a rear set of Leveling link the bike handles allot better and found out what I needed to tune and service so now I have service manual a ez-tach tachometer Morgan carbtune colortune a cam tool from Yamaha it has all arrived from US to Australia so this weekend I am working on my bike valve clearance carbsink and tune THANK YOU ALL PIPER Adelaide Australia
  14. Thanks I see whot you mean your right I am a metal worker but the tools I have and get my hands on it will be hard to make looks like i have to fork out the $$$ Thanks Lynn
  15. Whots the size (radies) for the Valve tool for a XVZ1300 ctt can some one help I wont to make my own the cost hear in australia to buy one is $165 WHOT A RIPOFF Yamaha wonts to make $$$$ can some one help THANKS PIPER
  16. How hard is it to do the valve clerance on a 05 XVZ 1300 ct is there a post for and how to do this THANKS PIPER
  17. Thanks William,Jim and Earl your advice was very helpful I am going to buy the Carbtune, Color tune and the Dig Tachometer my bike is a 05 Royal Star XVZ 1300 ct and my Lady has a Yamaha XVS 650 twin AW costume with all these tools I will keep them in tip top condition and save THANKS AGAIN PIPER
  18. I just got MOLY 60 in the post I read some-wear in one of the post how much I should put in the rear drive is it 1/2 or 3/4 of a tea spoon if some one could let me know how much or better yet point me to where the post is I have bean looking all day to find it THANKS PIPER
  19. Grate world pro jet ed Hope the bike parking bay gets ther soon I like to visit GRATE JOB TO ALL
  20. HI every one Im thinking of buying a Carbtune pro becouse I gust had the price quoted to my from my yam dealer $650 AU do you think I should allso buy pro color tune kit to see the color of the spark as it is running and could some one point me on how to do valve clerance and whot tool I nead THANKS PIPER
  21. To all RSV and ventures riders. I have changed my rear brakes 6 times and 2 times in the front and found out that in the reat the inner pad wears out quicker than the outer pad. (has to do with the hydrolics) So now I change the pads from the left to the right (swap them over) after some riding (AND WITCH IT DOESN'T TAKE LONG TO DO ABOUT 15 MINUTES ) So when I do check them, i swap them over, but only if they need it. It depends on the thickness whether or not it needs to. But I always scrub them in by hitting the rear hard for the first couple of times. With riding in the Adelaide hills almost every Sunday (hard) I have not lost the rear brake at a sharp bend (so far) I have done just over 60,000 km
  22. I have changed my oil 3 times till is full (as the top mark)not a leak
  23. It all so could be the drain hole is at the top of that hole that is why you could not fit the store throw
  24. Thanks I check the pipes bolts and let you know PIPER
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