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uncledj

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  1. uncledj

    Gun Club

    uncledj replied to Sailor's topic in Watering Hole

    In their great wisdom the Founding Fathers put the Second Amendment only behind the First. They understood the importance of free speech, and knew that without the right to bear arms, there would be no way to protect the right to free speech. If we lose the Second Amendment, it's likely that we'll eventually lose the First. There are many who would scoff at this perception and believe it should be the governments job to protect us from all evils, but common sense indicates that this just isn't possible. They think that the risks of private gun ownership are too great, but with great freedoms come great risks. As for me I'll take what's left of the freedoms and accept the risks. I could go on and on about this (and many other) issue(s), but I suppose it could be considered political, and I know that's frowned upon in this venue. Anyhoo, that's my $.02:301:
  2. uncledj
    CONGRATS!!! Now do tell....what's the secret to not getting a sore butt on long rides?
  3. uncledj
    Wow. I'd hate to think of how many times that guy cracked up learning to do all those stunts. That's truly a case where man and machine become one.
  4. uncledj
    I was working in the basement of the Borden Building in Downtown Columbus, servicing some computer room cooling equipment. Thought the first one was an accident until the second one hit. Qwest communications (whose equipment I was working on) made all outside contractors leave the premises, since they handled government communications, and wanted to remove any potential security risks. Had a hard time getting through to work to find out where I should go next because the cell phone lines were overloaded. I had to go to a pay phone to get through. It wasn't until later that day that the gravity of it hit. Couldn't do much but bow my head and say a silent prayer for the dead / dying. That was living history for us all.
  5. uncledj
    Something you can try, if you have no way to read micro-amps is to take a copper core spark plug wire, strip about an inch or so from one end, then connect the other end to the ignition module in place of the existing spark / sense wire. Put it into and ignition sequence and hold the stripped end close enough to spark to the ground rod (next to the ignitor rod) and let it light, making sure the copper wire is fully in the flame. The ignition module should sense the flame and continue to burn. If it still shuts down after 5 seconds, chances are that the module is bad. I've done this a couple of times in a pinch when I needed to confirm a bad flame sensor. The sensor is simply a steel rod, so it's pretty rare that they go bad, but it does happen.
  6. uncledj
    Yes, that's an electrode, and yes, it's possible that they're using it to sense flame also. While I've never seen one like it, the fact that it has the additional bend at the end to put more of the rod into the flame seems to support this. If you could post info on the type of ignition control, or at least post how the terminals are marked, I could probably tell you for sure. Be aware though, this is NOT a thermocouple. Thermocouple and flame rod are two completely different beasts. Have you tried cleaning it yet? Be aware that there must be a good ground path from the burner back to the module for it to sense.
  7. uncledj
    Sometimes they use the electrode as the flame sensor. It can do double duty if it's set up that way. Make sure it's clean. If the unit is sparking and lighting, you need not worry about the sail switch. If it wasn't making, it wouldn't try to light at all.
  8. uncledj
    Are y'all talking about the furnace blower which distributes the heated air throughout the camper, or are you talking about the combustion blower, which creates a draft for combustion...??? Furnace blower will be energized either through a time delay, (delay on upon a call for heat, then delayed off after loss of call) or through a temperature switch, which would allow the plenum to heat up a bit, then shut down the blower after it cools. For a camper, I'd bet it'll be a time delay style, but I'm not sure. A combustion blower will typically run for 30 seconds or so as a pre purge,..as a safety measure, to clear the heat exchanger of any raw gas before the ignition sequence begins, then will continue to run for as long as the unit is firing, and in some cases (rarely) they'll have it set up to run a post purge as well.
  9. uncledj
    I'm not an RV tech, but I am a HVAC Tech. What seems to be happening is that it's going through an igniton trial, but not sensing the flame. It burns for 5 seconds waiting for the igniton module to sense flame, and if it doesn't it'll shut down to keep from allowing raw gas to build up. (safety issue) The most likely cause will be an oxidized flame rod. It'll look like a thermocouple, but with just a single wire coming off of it. Clean it with steel wool or a scotchbrite pad....avoid using sandcloth. If that doesn't do it for ya, make sure any ground wiring is intact, and making good connection. The flame sensing circuit will actually prove flame by passing a small bit of electricity through the flame to ground, and back to the igniton module. (Probably between 0.5 and 2 micro amps) If none of that does it for you, you may be due for a new igniton module. PM me if you need further advice.
  10. uncledj
    Depends on what ratings the switches have also. The only reason to run a relay at all is if the load of the lights is higher than what the switch can handle on its own. Driving lights can easily be a heavy enough load that a typical switch won't handle it. The marker lights shouldn't be an issue. If you have heavy enough switches, you don't need the relay(s) at all.
  11. uncledj
    Went on a road trip through the NE corner of Pennsylvania last weekend. Stopped at a place near Titioute on Route 6 called Simpler Times museum. Happened on it by chance, found the door to be locked, with a sign "open by appointment or chance". Just then an old timer (88) stopped by in his truck and opened up. He lives just out back, so if it's closed you can probably get him to open up.....he loves to tell you about the history of the stuff inside. Mostly old cars, trucks, gas pumps, drilling equipment and tractors. He'll charge you $4 to enter, and it's money well spent. He has quite a collection in the 5 or 6 buildings on site. I particularly enjoyed the two ancient Mac Trucks he has. One of them is chain drive. My peeps and I were glad we stopped. If you're in the area, check it out.....you'll be glad you did.
  12. uncledj
    Not sure without looking what the screw heads look like, but most phillips head screws have enough of a head to grab with a pair of vice grips. It usually mars the screw head a bit, but it usually works for me.
  13. uncledj
    Back in the day, my wife (then girlfriend) and I were on my KZ1000, doing about 70, on the freeway, in broad daylight when a group of 5 white tails bolted from the woods and across the road. We went right through the middle of the group, skidding the back tire the whole time. They ran in a line, and we went between #3 and #4. Nothing I coulda' done, it was just one of those things.
  14. uncledj
    Was putting the side panels back on after replacing some of the louvers that had come apart. I noticed how the bad louvers were warped, and figured it must be from the excessive heat they're subjected to. As I thought about it, I don't remember ever wanting to open them, and how even when closed the heat coming through them is uncomfortable, so I decided to block them. I put a thin piece of insulation over them, with a dab of silicone at each corner to hold them in place. If anyone wants a bit of this insulation to do this, let me know and we'll work something out.
  15. uncledj
    The back pipes are also a lot shorter than the front, so maybe the way they enter the collector gives added restriction to help match the restriction from the longer front pipes....???...
  16. uncledj
    I got kinda lucky with where I made the second cut with this one. I really don't see how you could get it apart without ripping the perforated screens apart, unless you cut the top out just about exactly where I did, and then you'd still have to deal with the baffle welded to the bottom. There's really nothing to them. I'm still amazed at how much it affected the sound of my bike. Sounded like a rattling exhaust leak.
  17. uncledj
    For anyone who followed the thread, my 87 was making some crazy exhaust noise that caused me to remove and inspect the collector, the mufflers and the pipes several times. The issue was resolved when I replaced a seemingly healthy collector. I took the problem collector and cut it apart to see what was inside and what caused the problem. Lemme tell ya. A healthy collector would be very tough to get apart without destroying it. Using a die grinder with a cutoff wheel, I first cut along the perimeter of the bottom side hoping to peel away the skin with no luck. I was trying not to destroy it in the process, so I flipped it over and cut around the perimeter of the top, and although I had to cut through some of the perforated interior screen, I was able to get it apart mostly intact. This was only possible because of what ended up being the problem, which was that the two welds that hold the bottom panel to the one baffle on the inside were broken. This must have been causing the loud sound and the rattle that I had. I ended up re-welding the perforated screen anywhere that it had been pulled out during dis assembly. I then drilled 4 holes in the bottom panel where it contacted the baffle so that I could weld the baffle back on once I put it back together. I then welded the bottom panel that I'd cut back in place, then put the top back on, held it in place with a C clamp and welded it back on. I then flipped it over and welded the baffle to the bottom panel through the holes I drilled earlier. I think the takeaway is that if you are getting these crazy sounds, it'd be worth it to run 3 sheet metal screws through the bottom panel into the baffle, in line with the 2 existing spot welds, one in the middle, and one forward of the front weld and aft of the rear weld. If that cures the problem, you at least know what the problem is, and can opt to leave the screws in and see how long it lasts, or pull the collector, drill a few holes like I did and weld the baffle back to the bottom panel without taking the thing apart. In any case, I've welded mine and would be comfortable putting back on the bike, expecting no further issues. If anyone else has this problem and can get their collector to me, I'd be happy to weld the baffle back in for them. Should be pretty easy now that I know what to do.
  18. uncledj
    For anyone who followed the thread, my 87 was making some crazy exhaust noise that caused me to remove and inspect the collector, the mufflers and the pipes several times. The issue was resolved when I replaced a seemingly healthy collector. I took the problem collector and cut it apart to see what was inside and what caused the problem. Lemme tell ya. A healthy collector would be very tough to get apart without destroying it. Using a die grinder with a cutoff wheel, I first cut along the perimeter of the bottom side hoping to peel away the skin with no luck. I was trying not to destroy it in the process, so I flipped it over and cut around the perimeter of the top, and although I had to cut through some of the perforated interior screen, I was able to get it apart mostly intact. This was only possible because of what ended up being the problem, which was that the two welds that hold the bottom panel to the one baffle on the inside were broken. This must have been causing the loud sound and the rattle that I had. I ended up re-welding the perforated screen anywhere that it had been pulled out during dis assembly. I then drilled 4 holes in the bottom panel where it contacted the baffle so that I could weld the baffle back on once I put it back together. I then welded the bottom panel that I'd cut back in place, then put the top back on, held it in place with a C clamp and welded it back on. I then flipped it over and welded the baffle to the bottom panel through the holes I drilled earlier. I think the takeaway is that if you are getting these crazy sounds, it'd be worth it to run 3 sheet metal screws through the bottom panel into the baffle, in line with the 2 existing spot welds, one in the middle, and one forward of the front weld and aft of the rear weld. If that cures the problem, you at least know what the problem is, and can opt to leave the screws in and see how long it lasts, or pull the collector, drill a few holes like I did and weld the baffle back to the bottom panel without taking the thing apart. In any case, I've welded mine and would be comfortable putting back on the bike, expecting no further issues. If anyone else has this problem and can get their collector to me, I'd be happy to weld the baffle back in for them. Should be pretty easy now that I know what to do.
  19. uncledj
    I'll see if I can post pics when I cut it apart Anyhoo, here's what I've done during this minor teardown. Replaced the collector Replaced spark plugs Replaced plug wires Replaces carb diaphragms Synced carbs Replaced clutch slave cylinder Changed clutch fluid Replaced rear brake pads Changed all brake fluid, / bled Greased splines Changed final drive oil Changed engine oil Repaired broken tab on lower fairing Installed forward foot rests Polished any aluminum / chrome I could get at. Should be ready for a trip I'm not looking forward to replacing the TCI when the next group buy happens....looks like I'll just about have to remove the fairing to change that. That was enough wrenchin' to last me for the rest of this Summer.
  20. uncledj
    It was the collector...!!!! Don't as me to explain it. As I said, I saw nothing wrong with it, and we even looked inside with a fiber optic camera and saw nothing out of place. I put the collector from Gary's bike on it, .....had to make a gasket for one of the mufflers since I couldn't get the old one off intact, put it all together and WALLAH...no more noise. The warden (wife) is disappointed that I've been working on the bike all day (again), so we didn't get to do anything today, so I'll have to spend time with her tomorrow, but you know I'm chomping at the bit to cut the original collector apart for a look see. I'll let ya'll know what I find....Might not be 'till next week though. The important thing is I'm ready for next weeks road trip without any issues...YIPPEE!!! I know it gets said a lot, but what a great site, and what great, knowledgeable people, so willing to help. A special thanks to Gary....I owe ya one brother. Thanks everyone for the advice on this issue. I gotta go pick up the tools and get cleaned up before the wife leaves me...LOL
  21. uncledj
    Just listened to it again, and if you listen to the second recording, you can hear that "Thrush" or "Cherry Bomb" muffler sound when I let off the throttle. That is definitely not valves. It's the rumble that you'd get when the exhaust is ? sucking air in? when you let off the gas. Again,....can find no exhaust leak.
  22. uncledj
    Just got home from Gary's Gary (Dingy) was kind enough to "put an ear" to it for me, since I don't know what more I can do to try to identify the problem. As he said, the recording isn't that great, but does give a bit of the offensive sound, but I really don't believe it's coming from the valve train. There may be a bit of ticking, indicating that they should be adjusted, but nothing serious. The sound seems to be coming from the collector. We inspected the original collector with a fiber optic scope that he had, and could find nothing out of place. Not knowing what else to do, I got a collector off of Gary, which was originally on"Tweety" and I'll put it on and see what happens. If that cures it, you can bet that I'll cut the original collector apart to see what's up. As far as the left exhaust goes, I got hold of a left muffler from a first gen MK I and, although the mount was a little different, I was able to bolt it to the collector and it made no difference. I'm doing a road trip next weekend and was hoping to have it resolved by then, but if not I'll ride it as is. The bike seems to run well, and the only problem at this point is the noise.
  23. uncledj
    The mufflers are the first thing I looked at. It seemed (and seems) like I get more exhaust flow from the drain hole at the front of the left muffler than the right. With that in mind, I thought the left muffler was bad, although I could see no evidence of it from looking into it. I ended up getting a replacement muffler on e-bay and put it on with no difference,....besides, the loud sound isn't coming from the rear of the bike, but rather from where the collector is. When I start it and try to isolate where the sound's coming from, it comes down to the collector. I can neither see or feel any evidence of exhaust leakage from any of the connections, and it doesn't sound like an exhaust leak anyway....just loud, and something has changed, and isn't right. I've removed all exhaust parts with the exception of the rear down pipes and inspected thoroughly and can find no reason for the change. I've seen on old threads where the collector baffles can break, causing such a problem, and that's what I'm down to. Anyhoo, that's where I'm at with it.
  24. uncledj
    Pulled the exhaust apart again today, planning on replacing the collector. Before pulling it apart I started the bike and quickly took temperature readings as it heated up. The front pipes heated at about the same rate, the collector seemed to heat evenly, except for where the front left pipe enters, which did heat up faster. I couldn't get a read on the rear pipes, but when I pulled the system apart, I slid under the bike and saw as much as I could, and both rear pipes looked ok on the inside, from what little I could see. I inspected the insides of the front pipes, and with a small inspection mirror I was able to see into the pipe a little ways, and both looked good. I'll change out the collector with one I'm hoping to get off of Dingy, and hopefully all that'll be left to do is sync the carbs and put the plastics back on, do a quick cleanup and I'm ready for next week's trip. Wish me luck.....I really want to put this issue to rest. Thanks all for the help so far.
  25. uncledj
    Seems pretty effective http://www.infowars.com/how-to-stop-a-massacre-surveillance-video-reveals-simple-low-cost-solution-that-works-everywhere/
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