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igya

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Everything posted by igya

  1. Don't forget to paint the inside of the cut-off with a high temp black paint after brushing out as much surface rust as possible.
  2. I'm not sure what you're talking about concerning 3 weld points on the non-chrome part. Just as the tip of the muffler starts to reduce to a cone, there's a seam. Cut on the back side of the seam (toward the rear of bike) because there's a baffle where the seam is that you need to leave in place. I left the steel tube coming through the center of the baffle about an inch long and drilled four 5/16" holes around the tube. That gave it a very powerful sound that mellows out to almost nothing at about 40mph. Keep in mind that this is a 1985 (1st generation) Venture Royale.
  3. I put this same post in the original thread but decided to do it again with a new thread since I was so slow responding to the last questions. Sorry about the delay responding. Been in south Louisiana piggin' out on Cajun cookin'! Use duct tape to protect the chrome and a sawzall (reciprocating saw) to make the cut right past the seam (on the exit side of seam) as it drops to a cone. Smooth out edges with an orbital sander. Paint the insides with high temp black paint. Be careful and don't cut into the inner pipe until you decide how far you want it to extend out of the baffle plate. Doing it this way keeps you from having to remove the mufflers. If you're nervous about cutting, leave extra metal that can be slowly ground down with a 4-1/2" angle grinder.
  4. Sorry about the delay responding. Been in south Louisiana piggin' out on Cajun cookin'! Use duct tape to protect the chrome and a sawzall (reciprocating saw) to make the cut right past the seam (on the exit side of seam) as it drops to a cone. Smooth out edges with an orbital sander. Paint the insides with high temp black paint. Be careful and don't cut into the inner pipe until you decide how far you want it to extend out of the baffle plate.
  5. For what it's worth, I have a low mile '87 1300 VR engine that I bought for a backup in case my '85 2nd gear went south. But I'm selling my VR while it's still okay. I gave $740 for the engine, but would take $550 if you picked it up in Springfield, Missouri. If interested, my email address is cwg45@sbcglobal.net.
  6. A quickie question guys. Will a seat from a 1983 VR fit on a 1985 frame? Thankymuch!
  7. I have a great set of VR1200 cams I'll take $30 (postage included) for.
  8. I've searched their site but can't find it. Do you have a link to the part?
  9. I appreciate the tip, but I would really like to beat $111.00.
  10. Well, for the THIRD time my 200 lb body took on the 750 lb '85 VR, and I don't have to tell you which one came out on top (literally). Just a parking lot/loose footing thing but enough to wipe out the plastic holder for the CB and CLASS. eBay is already being searched, but has anyone got an idea where I could get another one without getting a second mortgage? Thanks guys (and gals).
  11. Well, that was clear as mud. Try this. With all components installed, the top black plastic plate that the CB and CLASS faces stick out of, that's the part I need. Wheew!
  12. I need the plastic part that surrounds the CB and air suspension system. Now, that's the upper (or outside) plate that you see looking at with everything installed in the right side of fairing.
  13. Hey, you guys leave poor George alone. I know a LOT of Harley riders who have trouble spelling.
  14. Out of the 38 bikes I've owned (mostly Japanese) over the past 43 years have had standard size ND or NGK plugs. In fact, most of my cars have been Japanese, same thing.
  15. Just go to a hardware store or Sears and buy an 18mm socket. They're cheap.
  16. Yeah, no problem getting it out. I've just never heard of an 18mm plug before.
  17. I guess I'm too far out of touch to know that an 18mm plug even existed, but dag nabbit, that's what my NGKs are in the '85. I'm guessing that all of you already knew about these because I'm the usually last to hear about anything. But, 18mm and not 5/8 or 3/4?? WOW, what a hoot!
  18. Michael, help me out here. Are you saying the rear cover was tough to get back on?
  19. Now, about this valve cover gasket being a snap to change out on my '85, the only thing that snapped was my brain. I was very pleased to see how easy it was to lift the cover, but not so happy in finding out that it would not slide out over the cam chain. About 1/4" more clearance and I would have crossed the finish line. Not to mention that I almost damaged the old gasket in the process. Am I cursed, or what?
  20. My '85 VR is pretty stubborn about wanting to leak a little from its rear valve cover, no matter how hard I plead with it. Is that fix more trouble than it's worth if the leak amounts to approx. a thimble full after parking from an all day ride (with the understanding that it ALSO leaks some DURING the ride)? I can do the job, I just don't know how crazy it would be.
  21. Hum-m-m-m.....that's the first time I've heard about a mark indicating a fix. BUT, I'd really like to investigate that a little futher. I still think the VIN is the best indicator. Just hang loose for awhile, someone will set us straight on that issue. About the slipping, if that's what you really have, it's the clutch. But, If you're calling jumping out of gear "slipping", then that's a bit more serious.
  22. Well, I'm not in the same league as these old salties, but I've been using Castrol 10W-40 ever since I've owned my '85 and no slippage at all. Since the oil change obviously made the problem noticable, I'd say the plates were about ready to slip pretty soon regardless of the oil you used. These are difinitely high torque engines, but I've raced bikes that would pull VRs all over the place and I've always used Castrol with no problems. However, having said that, I highly recommend listening to these guys and do exactly what they recommend.
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