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igya

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Everything posted by igya

  1. igya
    Hey Steve, you mean turn the harness connector clockwise like one revolution? What does this do for the connection? I don't get it.
  2. igya
    My '85 has a serial number that puts it in the 2nd gear warning class so I just bought a good running 1300cc engine to store away for that "rainny day." You can get a whole engine (even shipped) off eBay for less than the repair cost. If you went to a salvage yard, you could pick one up for around $300 ready to pop into the frame. The service bulletin is serial number 59J-000100~0001413 had the softer thrust washers as well as all 83 and 84 models. The important part are the numbers. The 1413 was the last one with the soft washers. They built the 83, 84 and early 85 Ventures with soft thrust washers, then after that, installed a harder washer to remedy the issue. So, if you buy an engine, be sure that the number is AFTER 1413. That's my story and.....I'M STICKIN' TO IT!!!
  3. igya
    I'm wondering if these '85 Venture CBs will like typical "truck stop" CB antennas as long as the SWR meters out. Also, can't a splitter be used to incorporate the stereo with that one antenna? AND aren't TOP LOAD antennas better than BOTTOM LOAD for bikes?
  4. igya
    Okay! I'm going for it! Thanks a million you guys. Charlie
  5. igya
    Sounds pretty straight forward to me too. I'll keep my peepers open for valves. Thanks man! Charlie
  6. igya
    So, I assume you're talking about the electronic component on the fairing, right?
  7. igya
    MAN! I like the sound of that! So, where would be the best place to put the new valves? And, wouldn't I need to separate the front from the rear? Also, could you save me a lot of searching by telling me the best to get the valves and progressive springs? Thanks a lot!
  8. igya
    Oh man! Danged E1 code has me stumped. I finally got this '85 restored pretty well but I get an E1 code on my suspension control unit, so no air to my shocks. The repair manual flow chart says that if you hear a click from the pump unit whe the ignition is turned on, then go to the sensor. First of all, I haven't found the sensor which is supposed to be up front. Have any of you had to deal with this before? AND, my front shocks are bottomed out when riding. Is this normal with no air? I would think that the front shocks would NOT be bottomed out when riding because of the spring support. Am I wrong about this? I WANNA RIDE!!!
  9. igya
    The STICK is what I am using. The other might be as good or better, don't know. I discovered that Wal-Mart had moved it from Hardware to Automotive. I bought their last 3 sticks yesterday. Also, at O'Reilly Auto, it's a special order item and takes about 4 days to get it (depending on the location of their warehouse).
  10. igya
    I went back to Wal-Mart to clean out their stock of this magnificent ABS epoxy and BOOM! They were out and didn't even have the display any longer. A severe panic set in so I went on a mission and finally found it at O'Reilly Auto, AutoZone and K-Mart. Wheew...a close call! You might still have it at Wal-Mart where you live, but I'm pretty certain these others will carry it for quite a while.
  11. igya
    If I were you, I'd have a couple of pieces of fiberglass already cut to overlap the gap about an inch. Kneed epoxy (about 1/8" thick) very quickly and press one piece of fiberglass onto a flattened strip of it and apply with epoxy next to faring on the inside (of course). Push the epoxy up a fuzz higher than the outside finish of fairing while pressing the edges together quite firmly. You'll think that it'll never stick, but as it cures, it gets very tacky and will stick like........well........like GLUE! Let that set for up for about 30 minutes and do the same thing again over the first application. Repeat as often as needed to retain the proper thickness. Don't forget to rough up each area that epoxy will be bonding to including the first application. If the gap is over 3" long, I'd make additional applications lengthwise overlapping the glass and epoxy about 1/2" (one layer at a time). The epoxy wet sands very well (working up to 600 grit wet paper). GO FOR IT! MAKE YOUR DAY!!! YOU CAN SEND THE "THANK YOU" CARDS LATER.
  12. igya
    Steering head, huh? Nope, missed that one. I'll go look for it right now. Thanks!
  13. igya
    This is a repeat of a reply I offered to a sad soul and thought it to be important enough to post a new thread so that everyone might benefit. This doesn't have to happen. Support the flat sided filler spout with a 16mm open wrench and turn against the 16 with a 14mm on the plug's hex head. That way you are neutralizing the stress placed on the thin sides of the pot metal fluid reservoir. Replace the plug with a brass or nylon washer and just snug it down. End of story.
  14. igya
    Not a rebuild, and I've even tried the slow routine. This bike set up for about a year so maybe a seal has gone south. RATZ! I guess I was hoping someone knew a little trick that I might have missed. I'll bet you're right about the seal.
  15. igya
    I've spent the better part of the night trying to bleed these blasted rear brakes! Fluid will seep out all bleeders but will not build pressure. There's no telling how many brakes I've bled but this is the first that wore me completely out. I retired at 50 so I could spend my golden years riding...not bleeding brakes. Any suggestions? P-L-E-A-S-E.................
  16. igya
    This doesn't have to happen. Support the flat sided filler spout with a 16mm open wrench and turn against the 16 with a 14mm on the plug's hex head. That way you are neutralizing the stress placed on the thin sides of the pot metal fluid reservoir. Replace the plug with a brass or nylon washer and just snug it down. End of story.
  17. igya
    The OEM color names and numbers are easy to get. You'll just have to see if your local auto paint supplier can match or cross reference them. If you need help getting the OEM info, let me know.
  18. igya
    Acetone and fiberglass are great tips also! I used fiberglass with the liquis epoxies but didn't think about it with the Permetex. Wish I had. And, I would think that using acetone after the roughing would be double good. Don't ya just love this?!
  19. igya
    Absolutely! Just rough up the surfaces with heavy grit sandpaper (I used a Drimmel tool with a rotary file) and wear rubber gloves because that stuff really likes skin. You will wonder if that wad of kneaded adhisive will even stick, but as it heats up in the curing process, it gets very tacky and will bond like you wouldn't believe. For long cracks, I'd recommend rolling it into a ball in the palm of your hand to compact it (after Kneading for about 1 minute -NEVER more than 2 minutes) and roll it out into a rope. Then flatten it out about 1" wide and mash it onto the crack. You're going to be amazed!!!
  20. igya
    You folks have helped me more than I could ever thank you for! So, I'd like to make a small contribution that may have already been shared by someone else, I don't know. While trying (no telling HOW many) different epoxies (from fast to slow cure) with a certain amount of succuss, I finally discovered the one that is absolutely perfect! It's PERMATEX "PermaPoxy" Epoxy Stick Item # 84315. Can be found at WalMart for $4.00. My fairing had a corner chunk missing, various holes drilled for bogus switches and just about every tab cracked or missing. You just cut off a slice, knead it, smash it in place, shape it a little, wait 5 minutes, apply final grinding, and WHAMO! A jack hammer couldn't knock it loose! I have even glued "fixed" nuts on metal parts. It can even be drilled and tapped out. It glues everthing (including ABS, obviously) except oil and water! And I'm not sure of that yet. Friends, you'll not be disappointed, I promise.
  21. igya
    Here's a repeat of the ingo I received from another rider; The serial number as per the service bulletin is serial number 59J-000100 through 0001413 had the softer thrust washers as well as all 83 and 84 models. The important part are the actual numbers....so the ~1413 was the last one with the soft washers. They started at ~000100 numbering the 85 builds. Yamaha built the 83, 84 and early 85 Ventures with these soft thrust washers, then after that, installed a harder washer to remedy the issue. If you don't flog the bike...the 2nd gear issue might not show up till the 50,000 mile + range. Its a gradual thing, not a "yesterday it was fine, today it won't stay in 2nd" thing.
  22. igya
    I've got ya man! I love it! I've learned more about Ventures in one week "talking" to you guys than I would have taking 2 semisters in HOW TO FIX ENGINES 101.
  23. igya
    RATZ! I checked my PM and there's nothing there. I HATE it when that happens!
  24. igya
    Okay, I think I'm beginning to get it now. There's too many experiences out there to compete with, considering this is my 1st Venture (into the unknown) so,........I bow to your explanation. But, you HAVE to admit that I have a stronger 2nd gear in the 13...don't ya? Please...? Time out! Let me go get a drink before you answer that one. I HAVE to believe I didn't throw $400 smackers away on a 1300 engine.
  25. igya
    I don't get it. I can't see any way that a 1200 could be set up to blow a 1300 away, given the same is done with both. I'm a'thankin' the 1300 cams are a better start, never mind the higher compression ratio and extra CCs. Why would you think otherwise?
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