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Everything posted by Freebird
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I will take a look at this. The problem is, the subscription code is programmed in by default. I'm sure that I can modify the code to add more time to the email notification but I'm trying to keep hard code changes to a minimum. Every time I have to upgrade the software here, all those changes are set back to default and I have to go through all the code and re-program all the changes that I had made. It takes a lot of time and I usually end up forgetting about some of them until it is mentioned again.
- 28 replies
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- action.bang
- box
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Well, I have to say that this group has been very good about pitching in. Since I started putting the donation can out at lunch a couple of years ago, I think I have ever been out more than a couple hundred bucks and that's just pretty darn good. The fun of seeing old friends and making new ones is worth far more than that.
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I will just add this. The problem with connectors is not always due to dirt, oil, grease, etc. You may get them perfectly clean and they can still fail. These connectors have to be tight. A connector can simply get loose after all these years. It can be caused by being plugged and unplugged a lot of times, not usually the case with this particular one, but also due to the subtle vibrations over that amount of time, the thermal expansion and contraction of being heated and cooled probably thousands of time over the years, etc. In most cases, it is difficult to impossible to get down into them to squeeze the contacts or whatever to make them tight again. Even if you can, they have also lost the spring tension that they had when they were new and won't stay tight. While they may be just fine, there are many reasons why they may not be and all the cleaning in the world won't necessarily correct the problem if it does exist. If they DO get loose, you have a point of poor connection which again results in point of high resistance and that will cause it to heat up and fail.
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HEY....I don't mind doing it at all. I am offering to back out for EXACTLY the reason you stated. I don't want it to seem like I'm just out for the free labor. It IS nice though.
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It IS a big job, maybe TOO big to tackle for the day. It is something that I can do myself if I ever get off my lazy tale and get to it. I'm willing to do it but am certainly open to other and easier projects.
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I would never doubt the competence of your son-in-law, I don't know him at all. I will say that some of the "shade tree mechanics" here probably have far more experience on these bikes that he does. Some of these guys have been wrenching on these bikes since 1983 and have done some amazing things with the. I will also say that some of your "facts" are absolutely incorrect. I don't profess to be a an expert on motorcycle repair but I've studied and practiced electrical theory for about 35 years. I'm talking about complex industrial AC and DC circuits from low voltage to 13,000 volts. Some of your statements are just absolutely incorrect. First of all, it is typically NOT that a dirty connector will cause high amperage and cause it to burn up, it is the fact that the dirty or corroded contacts cause a point of high resistance which creates the heat. Secondly, connecting a larger gauge wire to a small gauge wire will NOT cause the amperage to go up. The system will draw the amount of current that is required and the amperage will be the same along any length of that wire. If you have, for example, a 10 gauge wire splice to a 14 gauge wire and the circuit is drawing 10 amps, those 10 amps will be present at ANY section of that circuit. It will NOT be higher as it travels through the 10 gauge wire and suddenly get bottle necked and be lower in the 14 gauge section. If you are pushing more amps than a wire can handle, then that section of the circuit would heat up and possibly burn but as long as you are not exceeding the maximum amperage of the smallest wire of the circuit, there will be no problems at all. There are literally millions of applications in the world where a larger cable is used as a main feed and them smaller wires feed off of it to supply various smaller loads. I'm glad that you deleted your original post because it was very insulting to one or more people who were just sincerely trying to help you. The fact is, there are a LOT of good folks here with a LOT of great knowledge but none of us are right all the time. If you post a question, you will likely get a number of different opinions and then you have to weigh the information and make the best decision based upon your own experience and expertise on the subject at hand. If you are going to get upset and angry anytime somebody suggests something that you might not agree with, you are NOT going to be very happy here.
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I don't think he has a website any longer but his contact information is in our links page here: http://www.venturerider.org/viewarticle.php?articleid=59 Here is a small picture but the only one I found. They used to run about $350.00 but I think somebody recently reported that they had gone up a bit.
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Well...I DO need to repack my steering head bearings. That is really a job though.
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I too had refrained from posting because I'm not 100% sure...but now that you have PUSHED it I'm going to say NO, it will not have a negative effect. I think it is Mark's Pipes that makes the SS collector and I don't think it has any ports like that.
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I know that Rick Butler has done the VMAX upgrade on a first gen and I think Dingy is doing one now. I had an '89 with the VMAX heads, Vboost, etc. I don't think that it will fit in the second gen frame though. I say this based completely on what I have been told, I don't know anybody who has actually tried it.
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So sorry to hear it. The news of a young person taking their own life probably breaks my heart about as much as anything. It is happening way too often. You will all be in our prayers.
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Here you go, I did find some price information. Some are a little less that I thought but still hefty enough. http://www.motorcycle.com/specs/indian.html
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Oh...they ARE more than HD. At least the standard HDs. I think the price I saw on the new Indian was somewhere around $35,000.00. I expect somebody to revive Henderson again one of these days.
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clutch flushing
Freebird replied to jteller1's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
No, he would not have had to. I don't remember what the manual says and don't have it in front of me. I'm thinking two years. A lot of folks consider it regular spring maintenance though. (not me, I don't do mine that often). -
clutch flushing
Freebird replied to jteller1's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Flushing it means basically replacing the oil clutch fluid with new. The way most do it is like you are bleeding the clutch lines. You just open the bleeder and squeeze the clutch lever and force the old out. You don't let the reservoir get too low because you don't want to get air into the system. Just pump out the old and keep adding new to the reservoir until you see fresh new fluid coming out of the bleeder. -
Do you mean to listen to music or talk? Listening to music would be easy. Just a 1/8" stereo patch cord from the Aux jack on the bike to the headphone jack of the phone. If you are talking about using the phone through your headset, it is probably possible but would require some type of adapter.
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DOT5 vs DOT3/4
Freebird replied to UnderDog's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I use the DOT 4 synthetic and I know from watching people change the fluid at maintenance day that a of others do also. It works fine. -
I corrected it for you. It was right on the calendar.
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- md oberlin
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Very interesting. I wonder if they will be able to bring the price down.
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Hey, please report back and let us know if the trap door works for removing the wheels on the RSV.
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Yea, I saw that and just found it again but like I said, it is WAY more than I could spend on a lift. They have a model that is cheaper and looks great too but it doesn't have the panel that drops in the front. I think that is a great feature.
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Since it works sometimes, I doubt the bulb is bad. I know that it gets it's ground from a contact on the neutral switch. I would probably start there.
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Now HERE is one with the features that I like. At over $2,000.00 PLUS the from wheel chock, it is way more that I would spend but it has the front and rear drop panels that I think would be very useful.
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I've got to do some measuring now before I make any kind of decision. I want it long enough so that I can remove the rear plate and the wheel will drop through it. It was reported earlier in this thread that the Harbor Freight lift is too short for that to work with the RSV. What would be even better would be one where the front hinges down or has a removable plate so that you could pull the front wheel also. I realize it would require tie downs to hold it as the front clamp would be useless but I can see where it could easily be done.
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I agree that it is POSSIBLE for the picture to have been taken elsewhere but from seeing many of those scams, that is usually a good first clue.
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- blunder.rotf
- ithaca
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