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Everything posted by Marcarl
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Yahhhh and iffin you have a Spyder, backups are easy.
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Check out, https://jmcorp.com. They did make a lower cord for that applications I think. You may have to call them to ask.
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We use Frogg Toggs, and don't find that problem with their new design. As far as the rain thing goes,, around here that is a little different, we see what may be rain coming, we wait cause you never know,, when it does come we hurry into our rain gear, getting wet in the meantime. Then when we are all suited up and ready to ride, we take it all off again. The advantage is that we get to hand it all out when we get home.
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Depends on what you want the end result to be, I guess. You rebuild the engine and get your $400 back,,, maybe,, after all, you bought a good engine at $400. How much is it going to cost to rebuild, I would plan on at least $200, just for gaskets. Not a lot goes wrong with these engines, so there is little demand, and maybe lots of supply. Don't know what you would get for the engine in scrap but you can take that off the price as well. Are you looking for work? something to do? it all comes into the picture. Me??? I'd scrap it. I would think it kind of risky to try and make some mula.
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i'm thinking that you should get a stethoscope to get to the heart of the matter. Doesn't sound like deep internal to me, at least not at this point. Could be clutch or shifter related.
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So 2 comments from me. How did you determine that you had spark on #4 ? Carb cleaner or brake clean will both fire a cylinder, as well as WD40,, at least in Canada it will.
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Just for kicks,, try the kill switch, it may only be 1/2 working.
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No spark at any plug, just won't start!
Marcarl replied to Mordalo's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I like your take on things! -
Had to do a little cleanup, I like this thread and want it to keep going.
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Oooooooo now yah done it,,,,,,,, and that's when the fight started!!!!????????
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I think it would be good to get back to square one. As you have the plugs out, do another compression check on all 4 cylinders. Engine warm, throttle wide open, all plugs out, wind it over to get highest reading, mark it down. Check to make sure you have decent spark coming from all 4 wires. Put the same plug on each of the 4 wires, one at a time and check for spark and quality. Install all components back into engine, making sure the wires clip onto the plug ends. If you don't feel the clip or snap adjust as needed. Fire the bike up again and see if it will run at idle or as close to that as possible. Squirt some carb cleaner or brake clean into each carb and report the differences if any. Try to keep the squirting the same from cylinder to cylinder. Let the engine come back to normal as you move from jug to jug. Report.
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The fork tubes are held in the triple tree by 2 'clamps, and a ciriclip. You would have to eliminate the ciriclip for the tubes to slide higher into the triple tree. Not a real good idea as the 'clamps' are only designed to hold the tubes in place, but not to prevent them from sliding up. What might work is to shorten the springs inside the fork tubes, but then you would have to deal with other issues such as amount of travel for the shock effect, spring rate, oil capacity, fork rake and who knows what else. Wearing a thicker soled shoe and lowering the seat might be better options.
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Can't remember seeing you there Ronnie, but I might have left something there, if I only could remember where there is.
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That's one reason I would not do your job,,, it's more than 3' off the ground. That's a looooong sucker!!!! Glad you guys are around,keep up the good work.
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So Marcarl now suggests to warm the engine, remove air cleaner and inner tower, and then spray a bit of cleaner into each intake. If the front 2 respond with better running, then I would look for a fuel issue. Just for kicks, squirt a bit into each of the rears and see what response you get from that exercise.
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What happened shows your love and concern for your fellows. Thanks for giving us the story, it might help somebody else down the road.
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If the rear shock holds air, it should be good, not often that we hear of a rear going bad on a 1st gen. For your head light, be careful on what you get, not all LEDs work well. Some of us have found the Silver Star halogen to be the best going. If you want more light up front, and nobody will argue with that, get some good driving lights, ask @Jayceesfolly, I know he is very happy with his, and so is @saddlebum. Also, if you either paint or use some foil tape in the tunnel in front of your headlight, it helps some. That black tunnel absorbs a lot of light rays. Keep asking those questions, it keeps us oldtimers on our toes and helps the brain to function.
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If you don't succeed at first, try, try and try again.
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There is always more than one way to skin a cat.
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And I have been so quiet lately!!!!
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Wow Rod!! made it for another year,, that's awesome!!
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I bet Walmart would be happy to cover your costs, and become the best of friends in the process. Lots better than Eichenberg Chyrsler I think.
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BACK to your corner,,, who said it was time for you to come out anyways.?.?
