Marcarl

Couple of thoughts here: When you checked the voltage, was that on the battery posts or cable clamps. If you find the clamps give you a higher reading, it's time to make them clean. Driving lights can take a lot of draw, maybe consider LEDs to minimize the draw. At best these stators don't put out mega watts, but I would agree that 13.3 is a bit low, not sure if a high output would solve that issue. Dirty connections elsewhere will also cause an excessive draw, so clean connections are good things to have.

Oh Yah,, something about the pipes,,, they need to be attached to work proper eh? Hard to see them things, they is soooo shiny.

Hey!!Mama,, it's missing a wheel,,, did you loose it? Was the bike going sooo fast the wheel couldn't keep up???

Yahhh, people are never happy,, when we are poor then we want to be rich, and when we are rich then we have to worry over our money, if we are married we can complain and if we are single we wonder why, if we have a bike we want a car, and if we have a car we are jealous of the one who has a bike, if we are employed we think the business owner makes too much and if we are a business owner we wonder why we aren't just employed, need I go on? I agree with those in HC though, but then my question is, are we getting the whole story or just what the NEWS thinks we should / want to look at.

Actually, DanileM was on site last night, surprised he didn't reply to you.

Nope! That is not normal. When you release air from the front shocks it exits through the compressor conflageration in the rear, and if there is too much oil in the shocks it will join the exiting air and cause what you have. Solution: drain the front forks and put in the proper amount of oil (I used plain power steering oil), then dis-assemble the air compressor and solenoids and clean them well, including the desiccant. Also inject some brake clean into the rubber hoses and blow out immediately to clean out any oil. Hopefully the desiccant is not contaminated or you'll have to replace that as well. WYAI: Put progressive springs in the front shocks and you won't be needing to put any air into them again.

I'd be all over the stethoscope idea to pinpoint the noise, and would start with listening to the stator cover, and yes there could be something loose elsewhere maybe (Carls got to stick together). There has been instances where the stator bolts have come loose.

Both good guys, and it seems so are you.... carry on as though you know what I'm doing.

Not a good thing to hear Phil. I will bend a knee for you if you like, but also wish rich blessings for you as travel the route laid out for you.

Don't know where we have been so far, so you have a new solenoid, all connections cleaned, then using your multi-meter check for voltage on the cold side of the solenoid, there should be nothing, then hit the start button and there should be 12v. If not, it isn't working, or the start switch isn't working. If there is 12v on the cold side then look at the starter to first off check the main connection and then maybe have to pull the starter out. Also, check to see if there is a voltage drop on the hot side of the solenoid when you hit the start switch. Also check all the battery connections, the ones to the post but also the cable clamp itself to the cable. Don't be gentle, twist and pull significantly. If it comes apart,, there is a problem. If you are gentle then you will never know.

The only way this could have been explained better is to have @saddlebum explain it,,,, you could be busy all morning just reading through the directions, and he would want to have you stop at all the places that he thinks he knows about,, like Burlington. Thanks Puc, for keeping things down to a slow roar.

Just to add to the confusion,,, the Master is on the handle bar, attached to a short rubber line, which screws onto a solid steel line along the frame, which then changes to a rubber line again to attach to the slave. Most likely the lower line is a culprit, or the slave itself. If I were in your position, I would contact @Skydoc and get the two lines from him, but use steel braided instead of rubber, you'll have better clutch response.

Do you ever come to Canada??? I have some nice pipes!!!

I'm thinking that should not leak for a bit,,, not so sure about the oil pan though, got any pictures so we can evaluate?

I've found that a little bit of lubrication on the center stand bearing makes a world of difference.

I was busy last night,, I do have nights likeadat. I did check though to make sure you had some company, noticing that you did, I left the conversation private.

That's why you take beer isn't it?

You did well!!! Exactly what the book says to do, and it paid off,,, but I'm sure there was an Angle or two kept busy for a few seconds as well. Blessings as you heal and fix. Remember: The throttle is your friend! And so is our Great Shepherd.

Not sure if we still need trouble shooting, or shoot the troubler. Now I'm confused!!

Now don't you g being sorry,,, we are here to help each other, and not all of us are mechanics or even close to being a wrench,,, that is kind of like why we have this site,,, so ask away, post your frustrations and difficulties, and if you missed something??????? Well so did we,, we missed helping you.

All the necessities.

Don't want to be over thinking this, but check your connections at the battery first, not only that the clamps are clean and tight, but also that the cables are well connected to the clamps. Then move onto the solenoid, checking everything there. If that don't provide the hoped for results, check the switch, or maybe even the kickstand switch now that you don't even have a click.

There are 7 members listed for Maine,, how many do yo want??? It's not Ontario eh? Like you said,,, borders are closed,,, maybe @Flyingfool will find a way to get me over there.

Guess you are going to need some help there Poppa,,, maybe I could suggest somebody to help you ride??

If your battery is good,,, need to check it,, then you have a short seemingly. Time to start tracing,,, fun job!