Marcarl

Anybody live somewhere close to Schenectady NY?

Just a thought for you: Passing lamps are a great thing to have on your scooter, more light at night, but also better visibility during daylight hours for other drivers. A triangle of visibility gives others a better handle on your speed and location, but I'm wondering if you get too tight an angle on the passing lamps, if then you will loose some of the triangle effect. I would say daytime results would be almost as important if not more important. Keep in mind that the sun will dissolve most of the light coming from you scoot during the daytime and make the lights look like another color rather than speaking out: HERE I AM!!

I've thought on this for bit,, I had to struggle somewhat with the 'happy' thing as well,, but then I thought, why not be happy? Well,, it's Memorial Day, at least for the USA and that's great that such an event can be celebrated. Now if you, or anybody would go out and spend a lot of whatever on some gift for somebody else,, whether you would know them or not,, and all that person could do was be sad about whatever you spent on the gift,, how happy would you be (you being anybody) Now, let's take that a step further,,, somebody, or somebodies, gave their live so that you and I could be free and live a life free of tyranny,,,, I think I will be happy and celebrate what they gave me. Sure there is a time to reflect, but I see being happy as the gift given to us by the many unknown to us. Thanks all you Veterans, all over the world, in many places and ages, today and long ago, for deciding that those coming after you would have a choice of a free and peaceful life.

Not sure about your particular situation, but on my 85 I went through 3 wheel sides and the pumpkin side still looked good. You are right about being loose might tend to build heat, but I don't think that is necessarily your issue. Most greases get thrown off the splines, and if the Honda boys put on the wrong stuff, the splines would be dry in no time. When you do take off the wheel you are not going to find globs of grease still sitting there, but the splines should look wet, and that is what keeps you rolling. Don't forget to deal with the pins, if they are not able to move that would be more detrimental to the splines then a bit of wear.

Brand of oil? Anything that is MC wet clutch rated. What are you trying to do, start a war on oil recommendations??? It might happen, lots of opinions. Chroming? You could, but it's not cheap, or ask @Evan if he wants to sell the chrome covers off his 86. What I did was to remove all the covers, strip all he clearcoat off and then buffed and polished them. Each spring they would get a cleaning with Magic Cloth and 10 years later they still look good. Might ask @Skydoc if he sells clutch plates?

The wheel side of the spline is made of softer material than the hub side and will be the wear point, as is shown. I realize that you cleaned the parts, but the wear shows signs of improper lubrication--- so using the wrong grease. I've done that, and wore out a spline with one tire. Using the right grease the wear will be hardly noticeable if at all. I use Lucas Xtreme Heavy Duty wheel bearing grease, and it did the trick. Others have suggested a Honda grease as well. When you pull the wheel, it's also important to pull the spline out of the wheel hub and clean and grease the pins, they can get ceased up and cause issues as well. The spline is held to the wheel with a hardly noticeable c-ring.

Hi Geobob, can't see your pictures. Try reposting or editing your post and then use the add attachment feature in the lower section of your post. Pictures also have a limit to size, so you might be luckier if you downsize them before attempting to post them.

I'm thinking your forum is correct. I am also thinking that there is very little call for such a request, seeing as there is very little reason for anyone of us to ever have to get into the engine that far. If anyone can assist it might be @Patch, or maybe @Flyingfool or @Prairehammer. They should respond shortly maybe.

She looks good from here,,, get on and ride!!!

I move this thread to the right location so you will get some answers. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?224-Star-Venture-and-Eluder-Tech-Talk-(-18-Present) This forum is for bug reports for the website,,, sorry for the the confusion.

You scored well,,,, really nice!!

Another good reason to be in the right hand track when making a left turn.

You might find that the steering head bearings could use some lube and adjustment, tire pressure will also play a part in all this. I always found that doing curves and corners went a whole lot easier by using counter-steering. It is something that needs to be practiced to get well done. Some like to lean the bike to corner, others will fight with it to point it in the direction they want it to go, and then there are those who sit back and coach the bike to do it's own thing by a slight push on the handle bars. First you need to try this on a straight stretch of road, and you need to be going faster than 10mph. Going straight in the middle of your lane, slightly push on the left handle bar and see what the bike does. You would think it would go to the right, seeing as you are trying to point the wheel in that direction, but I think you find that it has a new twist, your bike will actually go left. Now push slightly on the right bar and you'll be back to riding the middle again. In doing this the bike will also attempt to lean a bit into the side you pushing on, so you need to let it do that, don't overdo it and don't stop it, just ride with it. I'm not saying you don't do this or to give you new information,, just thought it was a good place to remind us.

You won't ruffle our feathers none,, we'll just point you to a corner and tell you to stay there while we clean up the mess that somebody made,,,, nah, it's all good, we are here to help, not to criticize.

I'm not a great fan of Seafoam, although it works well for maintenance and is non-invasive so to speak. But reading through your wiring description, I would take the high tension wire of the ignition and make sure those are all clean and ready to work. It's a bit of a pain to get them out, but can be done. Remove the front ones first and then while they are out do the back ones, all working from the front of the bike. Cut the wires to refresh them, clean the towers of the coils, clean the coil primary contacts, and cut a bit off of the lower wire to refresh them, also take the spark plugs ends apart and clean the resistors in there, or just replace them.

Best way to test a solenoid is to replace it with a known good one, or for the cost of a Ford type use a new one. I would first run a booster cable directly from the battery to the starter to make sure the starter works.

If I remember correctly, 2nd gens have the speedo issue, where 1st gens generally did not. My 85 was close enough to be spot-on.

Looks like you got yourself lots of good info Caledon,, only thing is that we can't comment on the dealer you are going to because you haven't told us who that might be,, but that's ok.

Don't know,, Oh BTW Welcome!!! As I was saying, don't know how tall you are, but if you are over 5'10" you'll be fine. This bike can be a bit top heavy when not moving, but if it's running and tracking right, which most are, you'll fall in love with it. It's maneuverable, nimble enough, powerful and doesn't shake the bones out of the skin they're in. Repairs aren't all that hard, you just need to ask us and we'll send you in all directions,, even the right ones on occasion. So stick around and enjoy, just remember,: We have fun!!

Just ask one question and then reply to all the answers,, you should be at 20 in no time.

Other than the normal stuff like brakes, tires, wheel bearings, head bearings, wire connectors, light bulbs, switches, rust and polish, leaky gaskets, torn seats, cracked tupperware, scratched windshield, leaky forks, there is some other stuff that might be hidden. Poor starter, cracked starter clutch, worn clutch plates, but most of all,,, missing second gear and that would depend on the vin number. The thrust washer that caused the 2nd gear issue was upgraded mid 85, but I don't know the vin number of the change. @Parriehammer would know this maybe.

I'm thinkin @uncledj has the tiger by the tail,,, I just wanted to see how close I could get.

Sounds like the relay, but also could be the starter,, not likely the switch seeing as you do get clicking. I would find a relay for a Ford and try that first, if that don't fix it, you would have to pull the starter I think.

OKAY,, I will withdraw the reference to Buckeye. I didn't mean it,,, really!!! I was only trying to stay away from varmit,, so varmit you'll still be for now.

Your pro's have a bit of truth to their story. We use lots of that stuff and we have a local bud who thinks like you and me,, why can't I change it to suit me, rather than being stuck with what I am told,,so I know what he tells me is what it is. Yep,, the units are matched and there has been so much updating to the AC units in the last years that older units will no longer be competitively changeable or upgrade-able. The pro's, where you get the required gas from are no longer allowed to install the older stuff, and if they had some and could sneak it to you, you would also have to find an old compressor that is compatible to the old gas,,, gets kind of confusing. If your compressor gave up and burnt you will most likely have burnt gas and oil in the system which needs to be disposed of. The whole system would have to be cleaned of the original coolant and put under vacuum for a while to make sure all contaminants and air is out, and then insert the new stuff. The Condenser is matched to the evaporator, (inside and outside) and if there is a miss match then you'll have freezing issues either at one place of the other. Put not enough gas in the system and it will run low on pressure and shut off,, too much gas and you stand the chance of blowing the system. Stuff you would need to DIY: Vacuum pump, welding torch for copper pipe (not solder), set of gauges, know how as to pressures and switching requirements, AC gas supply, leak tester,,,,, and maybe some more,,,, but you won't need to check the compression. My guy built an AC unit to work on a trailer for a refrigeration unit, it worked excellent, but he did all the figuring before he installed it, and he has a whole barn full of old/new parts that he can draw from. They should be able to match the A-frame though if they are willing to do a little figuring, but you won't get any sort of warranty for the work I bet.