Marcarl

The wheel side of the spline is made of softer material than the hub side and will be the wear point, as is shown. I realize that you cleaned the parts, but the wear shows signs of improper lubrication--- so using the wrong grease. I've done that, and wore out a spline with one tire. Using the right grease the wear will be hardly noticeable if at all. I use Lucas Xtreme Heavy Duty wheel bearing grease, and it did the trick. Others have suggested a Honda grease as well. When you pull the wheel, it's also important to pull the spline out of the wheel hub and clean and grease the pins, they can get ceased up and cause issues as well. The spline is held to the wheel with a hardly noticeable c-ring.

Hi Geobob, can't see your pictures. Try reposting or editing your post and then use the add attachment feature in the lower section of your post. Pictures also have a limit to size, so you might be luckier if you downsize them before attempting to post them.

I'm thinking your forum is correct. I am also thinking that there is very little call for such a request, seeing as there is very little reason for anyone of us to ever have to get into the engine that far. If anyone can assist it might be @Patch, or maybe @Flyingfool or @Prairehammer. They should respond shortly maybe.

She looks good from here,,, get on and ride!!!

I move this thread to the right location so you will get some answers. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?224-Star-Venture-and-Eluder-Tech-Talk-(-18-Present) This forum is for bug reports for the website,,, sorry for the the confusion.

You scored well,,,, really nice!!

Another good reason to be in the right hand track when making a left turn.

You might find that the steering head bearings could use some lube and adjustment, tire pressure will also play a part in all this. I always found that doing curves and corners went a whole lot easier by using counter-steering. It is something that needs to be practiced to get well done. Some like to lean the bike to corner, others will fight with it to point it in the direction they want it to go, and then there are those who sit back and coach the bike to do it's own thing by a slight push on the handle bars. First you need to try this on a straight stretch of road, and you need to be going faster than 10mph. Going straight in the middle of your lane, slightly push on the left handle bar and see what the bike does. You would think it would go to the right, seeing as you are trying to point the wheel in that direction, but I think you find that it has a new twist, your bike will actually go left. Now push slightly on the right bar and you'll be back to riding the middle again. In doing this the bike will also attempt to lean a bit into the side you pushing on, so you need to let it do that, don't overdo it and don't stop it, just ride with it. I'm not saying you don't do this or to give you new information,, just thought it was a good place to remind us.

You won't ruffle our feathers none,, we'll just point you to a corner and tell you to stay there while we clean up the mess that somebody made,,,, nah, it's all good, we are here to help, not to criticize.

I'm not a great fan of Seafoam, although it works well for maintenance and is non-invasive so to speak. But reading through your wiring description, I would take the high tension wire of the ignition and make sure those are all clean and ready to work. It's a bit of a pain to get them out, but can be done. Remove the front ones first and then while they are out do the back ones, all working from the front of the bike. Cut the wires to refresh them, clean the towers of the coils, clean the coil primary contacts, and cut a bit off of the lower wire to refresh them, also take the spark plugs ends apart and clean the resistors in there, or just replace them.

Best way to test a solenoid is to replace it with a known good one, or for the cost of a Ford type use a new one. I would first run a booster cable directly from the battery to the starter to make sure the starter works.

If I remember correctly, 2nd gens have the speedo issue, where 1st gens generally did not. My 85 was close enough to be spot-on.

Looks like you got yourself lots of good info Caledon,, only thing is that we can't comment on the dealer you are going to because you haven't told us who that might be,, but that's ok.

Don't know,, Oh BTW Welcome!!! As I was saying, don't know how tall you are, but if you are over 5'10" you'll be fine. This bike can be a bit top heavy when not moving, but if it's running and tracking right, which most are, you'll fall in love with it. It's maneuverable, nimble enough, powerful and doesn't shake the bones out of the skin they're in. Repairs aren't all that hard, you just need to ask us and we'll send you in all directions,, even the right ones on occasion. So stick around and enjoy, just remember,: We have fun!!

Just ask one question and then reply to all the answers,, you should be at 20 in no time.

Other than the normal stuff like brakes, tires, wheel bearings, head bearings, wire connectors, light bulbs, switches, rust and polish, leaky gaskets, torn seats, cracked tupperware, scratched windshield, leaky forks, there is some other stuff that might be hidden. Poor starter, cracked starter clutch, worn clutch plates, but most of all,,, missing second gear and that would depend on the vin number. The thrust washer that caused the 2nd gear issue was upgraded mid 85, but I don't know the vin number of the change. @Parriehammer would know this maybe.

I'm thinkin @uncledj has the tiger by the tail,,, I just wanted to see how close I could get.

Sounds like the relay, but also could be the starter,, not likely the switch seeing as you do get clicking. I would find a relay for a Ford and try that first, if that don't fix it, you would have to pull the starter I think.

OKAY,, I will withdraw the reference to Buckeye. I didn't mean it,,, really!!! I was only trying to stay away from varmit,, so varmit you'll still be for now.

Your pro's have a bit of truth to their story. We use lots of that stuff and we have a local bud who thinks like you and me,, why can't I change it to suit me, rather than being stuck with what I am told,,so I know what he tells me is what it is. Yep,, the units are matched and there has been so much updating to the AC units in the last years that older units will no longer be competitively changeable or upgrade-able. The pro's, where you get the required gas from are no longer allowed to install the older stuff, and if they had some and could sneak it to you, you would also have to find an old compressor that is compatible to the old gas,,, gets kind of confusing. If your compressor gave up and burnt you will most likely have burnt gas and oil in the system which needs to be disposed of. The whole system would have to be cleaned of the original coolant and put under vacuum for a while to make sure all contaminants and air is out, and then insert the new stuff. The Condenser is matched to the evaporator, (inside and outside) and if there is a miss match then you'll have freezing issues either at one place of the other. Put not enough gas in the system and it will run low on pressure and shut off,, too much gas and you stand the chance of blowing the system. Stuff you would need to DIY: Vacuum pump, welding torch for copper pipe (not solder), set of gauges, know how as to pressures and switching requirements, AC gas supply, leak tester,,,,, and maybe some more,,,, but you won't need to check the compression. My guy built an AC unit to work on a trailer for a refrigeration unit, it worked excellent, but he did all the figuring before he installed it, and he has a whole barn full of old/new parts that he can draw from. They should be able to match the A-frame though if they are willing to do a little figuring, but you won't get any sort of warranty for the work I bet.

If you had problems in the wheel gear or the cable the speedo would jump a lot. I have not had the pleasure to tear into the clock mechanism, but that is where i would go looking to see what can be seen.

Ahh as it can be normal for me, I screwed up on writing that,, it was just a copy and paste from a post from another friend of mine. I sure like your reply, Puc, yep, that's a good way and MY way to see things,,, count your blessings, name them one by one,,,,,,,, Reason for sharing it though, is that a lot of folks think we are having it tough right now, and I won't belittle that in the least, but humans in this world have had some real tougher times in the past, and yet humanity made it through. For sure many died, others were left parentless and others didn't come out of things they way they went in. That has been the way of history throughout the ages, and I don't think that it will change much anytime soon. So what we have to endure presently is not all that much,, yet,, big thing is, are we all there to help each other out when needed. I hope we can be and are.

Lookin for somethin to do there Buckeye? Keep us posted on your progress and we'll advise you on the way,,,,,

If the dealer is going to be month before they get to your bike,, I would be getting it back, if it's running as good as you say. One month + of not riding could translate into 2 weeks of riding and 2 weeks of learning how to do it yourself, with the help you can get here. We respond quickly, sometimes immediately, and if you are really stuck you can always call somebody to get you through the mess you might think you are in. As Patch said, the mixture screws have very little to do with how the bike runs down the road, once the RPMs are above 1500 they are pretty much out of the picture, so not to worry about them unless you have an idling issue,, which you did not mention. If you changed all the plugs and gabbed them right, and didn't end up resetting them in the process of insertion, then we can assume that they are working as they should. You need 3 things to make an engine perform, 1 is spark, 2 is fuel, and 3 is compression. That is very basic. Assuming you have spark on all cylinders, the next issue would be fuel, and as @ceedo mentioned do the easy stuff first to make sure fuel delivery is available. If that proves out to be fine, then go the next step and that would be carbs, and you did say that it seemed to run better after your trip,,, that's a good indicator, but I don't have a lot of faith in SeaFoam, it's real good as a maintainer, but not much good as a fixer. Use a quality carb cleaner in the tank and don't be cheap. Being cheap will only add to the cost. If you do get it back, then do as Patch suggested on the way home. Actually, add some good cleaner to the tank before you leave and stay out of 5th gear just to get some fuel through the carbs and also to get the reading he is looking to analyze. Keep us posted as to how you make out,,, we are interested and it doesn't cost you anything,,other than friendship.

I'm thinking we will be paying significantly more for restaurant service. Staffing a slow night costs lots of mulla and the restaurants have lots of those for many reasons. Running at 50% or so when they could be at 100% on the odd nights will greatly crimp their cash flow over the course of time, so to stay open they will have to charge a higher rate just to be in business. I'm thinking a $20 meal will go to $30 or better, with fewer choices as to where to spend the entertainment bucks. On the other side, with all the entertainment venues curtailed, there should be extra cash to do other things (although there will be lots of people out of work in that industry). It will be an interesting development,, could be a large recession coming up, but folks have made it through worse times than this, so I guess this generation will deal with their encumbrances as well. Check my thread:https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?145563-Get-a-Handle&p=1079096#post1079096