Marcarl

As an added note: Years ago I was informed that 75% of the tire wear was in the first 25% of tread depth. Now this was for car tires, but going on Puc's post, it might seem to be true for MC tires as well. Just something to keep in mind. Makes sense really. When the tire is new, there is lots of flex in the tread available to deal with the road surface, but as the tread wears the flex diminishes and so the rubber will start to scrape the road surface causing heightened wear.

Hey Puc,,, he has a Canadian bike, is that any different that what you are describing?

I've often though about getting me one of them there hoses, but then I would have to crimp other purchases somewhat, and food is kind of important, even in the winter time. So I just do as I always do, and crack the garage door open a couple of inches when I need to. Seems to keep most of the smell away.

The first thing I would do is to lower the oil level down to half glass, then check the intakes to makes sure the air filters are clean and the intake areas are clean. Then I would remove the spark plug wires and just lightly seat them on top of the plugs so that with an insulated pair of pliers you can lift them off easily. Then I would start the engine and get it warm so that it will idle nicely, and then with the insulated pliers remove a plug wire, one at a time. You can take the wire off and put it back to notice any difference in the running of the engine. If the cylinder is running well, then you'll notice a pronounced miss, put the wire back and the cylinder should recover, then move onto the next one. Report what you find.

Maybe it's not running on all four?? Might seem like it, but pull off the plug wires one by one to check for sure.

DANG!! that looks just like I remember Yah.

I'm sure that will leave an empty spot in your heart and life Bill. Wishing you many blessings even though.

If the banjo is screwed onto the line, maybe you could do with just a replacement banjo. And Yes! OEM is that the left front and the rear brakes are linked. Some guys have changed that, others leave them be.

Is the line integrated with the banjo, or is the banjo screwed on the line?

This has to be tough for those close to him, and my heart goes out to them. They will have to deal with this for some time.

No problem for you then,,, you only have 10% to unlearn,,,, now for the rest of us,,,,,,,,,,,

Yahhhh and iffin you have a Spyder, backups are easy.

Check out, https://jmcorp.com. They did make a lower cord for that applications I think. You may have to call them to ask.

We use Frogg Toggs, and don't find that problem with their new design. As far as the rain thing goes,, around here that is a little different, we see what may be rain coming, we wait cause you never know,, when it does come we hurry into our rain gear, getting wet in the meantime. Then when we are all suited up and ready to ride, we take it all off again. The advantage is that we get to hand it all out when we get home.

Depends on what you want the end result to be, I guess. You rebuild the engine and get your $400 back,,, maybe,, after all, you bought a good engine at $400. How much is it going to cost to rebuild, I would plan on at least $200, just for gaskets. Not a lot goes wrong with these engines, so there is little demand, and maybe lots of supply. Don't know what you would get for the engine in scrap but you can take that off the price as well. Are you looking for work? something to do? it all comes into the picture. Me??? I'd scrap it. I would think it kind of risky to try and make some mula.

Yep,, that would be my direction of advisement.

i'm thinking that you should get a stethoscope to get to the heart of the matter. Doesn't sound like deep internal to me, at least not at this point. Could be clutch or shifter related.

So 2 comments from me. How did you determine that you had spark on #4 ? Carb cleaner or brake clean will both fire a cylinder, as well as WD40,, at least in Canada it will.

Just for kicks,, try the kill switch, it may only be 1/2 working.

I like your take on things!

Had to do a little cleanup, I like this thread and want it to keep going.

Oooooooo now yah done it,,,,,,,, and that's when the fight started!!!!????????

I think it would be good to get back to square one. As you have the plugs out, do another compression check on all 4 cylinders. Engine warm, throttle wide open, all plugs out, wind it over to get highest reading, mark it down. Check to make sure you have decent spark coming from all 4 wires. Put the same plug on each of the 4 wires, one at a time and check for spark and quality. Install all components back into engine, making sure the wires clip onto the plug ends. If you don't feel the clip or snap adjust as needed. Fire the bike up again and see if it will run at idle or as close to that as possible. Squirt some carb cleaner or brake clean into each carb and report the differences if any. Try to keep the squirting the same from cylinder to cylinder. Let the engine come back to normal as you move from jug to jug. Report.

The fork tubes are held in the triple tree by 2 'clamps, and a ciriclip. You would have to eliminate the ciriclip for the tubes to slide higher into the triple tree. Not a real good idea as the 'clamps' are only designed to hold the tubes in place, but not to prevent them from sliding up. What might work is to shorten the springs inside the fork tubes, but then you would have to deal with other issues such as amount of travel for the shock effect, spring rate, oil capacity, fork rake and who knows what else. Wearing a thicker soled shoe and lowering the seat might be better options.