luvmy40

No, that's the passenger volume and push to talk assembly. He's talking about the handle bar mounted "Head Unit". There is a new one for sale in the 2nd Gen Parts thread.

You might also call MMI (Motorcycle Mechanics Institute) and see if they will mount and ballance for you.

What's the local scoop? Are you hearing about the State Gestapo rounding up outsiders and holding them in internment camps? I can't believe Cuomo is still allowed to make decisions after killing off the senior citizen population of NY with his edicts. My wife has talked me into canceling the trip. If I get forcibly detained for quarantine, I'll lose my job.

Well, Don and Eileen said they can't make it. If coming through Ohio is going to make it tough for you, don't worry about it. Bypass OH and I'll meet you there. Bro Cuomo can kiss my behind and arrest me after the fact.

I don't know anyone who thinks COVID19 is a hoax. The hoax is in how the U.S. Left Wing, has politicized and weaponized it to sabotage our economy and are constantly changing the story to suite their needs at the moment. You do realize that the idiots that have been condeming Trump for not wearing a mask when everyone around him is under intense scrutiny from a medical standpoint and are now screaming "hypocrasy!" at him when he masked up for a hospital visit are the same people who told us anyone who wore a mask was an idiot and didn't understand the science when this all first became a major news story, right? The virus is not a hoax, our politics are the hoax.

Are the plug wires and caps original? Fire it up in a dark environment and mist the wires with a spray bottle of water, Look for arcing. I'd be willing to bet that if the coils ohm out correctly and the problem is constant, as in not only after it warms up(which can cause a coil that ohms out correctly to start missing if the insulation is compromised), then your problem is likely the ignition control module(CDI). Ignitech makes a great programmable after stock module for a very reasonable price. https://www.ignitech.cz/en/vyrobky ignitech@ignitech.cz

OK, Thanks. Now I need to check to see if I have the aux. lights turned on or off! I was mucking about with that button a good bit when I was installing the phone mount/charger.

As usual, I have to be the odd man out! I just mounted this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B088FNVGWP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 on my '06. It seems rock solid and has excellent reviews. Wireless quick charge and USB port also with quick charge. The mount is versatile enough to make it possible to locate the phone pretty much anywhere you want to. Unless it falls apart on the ride to Niagara, I can't see a better option for $40.00 delivered.

There is a small button switch next to the power port in left inner fairing of my '06 RSV. It does not seem to do anything. One would assume by it's location that it was intended to turn the power port on or off. I had 12.5VDC at the power port regardless of the switch position. So; What Does This Button Do?

I don't think you have to take the seat off to remove the rear brake reservoir. I could be wrong, it's been a while since I had mine off.

Kris and I took the '06 RSV out for a CTFW session and wound up at Mark's Landing in Guilford Lake Ohio. Great food, great view of the lake and at least 40 bikes in and out while we were there. Mostly HDs. The Stuffed Mushrooms and Blackened Tuna Bites are fantastic. I also had one of the best Rueben Sandwiches I've ever had. Oh yeah, The French Fries were awesome too! Definitely a place to check out if you are ever in the area.

There are a couple tried and true methods of removing stuck or sluggish pistons. First try a rubber cone nozzle on an air blower fitting. Put a thin piece of luan or ply wood between the pistons, then jam the rubber cone into the brake line connector orifice and squeeze the blower valve. Make sure to keep your fingers clear 'cause when the pistons let loose with this method they are moving fast and furious! If that doesn't work, cap off the brake line orifice and connect a grease gun to the bleeder valve. Pump the grease gun until the pistons extract. If only one piston moves, use a clamp or vice grip to hold that one in place and get the other side moving. This method is messy but it will work.

I don't have a HF sand Blaster but I have enough of their stuff that my shop looks like a HF Showroom! Their bottom dollar stuff is hit or miss as to getting something that works out of the box. When you get one that works, they are usually more than adequate for occasional/hobbyist use. HF Has some higher end stuff now in Vulcan, Bower, Titanium, and Hercules. Some of those tools rival Miller, Lincoln, Dewalt, and the like in quality for the price. Keep in mind, the highest end sandblaster will not work worth a darn if you don't have an air supply that will keep up with it.

I installed skydoc_17's clutch upgrade and new frictions discs and M16A1MECH's 4 wire trailer conversion harness on the '06 RSV. Took a 20 mile test run, a WOW! What a difference!

I use a wheel chock. However, a chock is not absolutely necessary. Cecdoo recently transported a Yamaha Maxim 750 with this method and no front wheel chock with good results. You can add a third (or third and fourth) strap on the rear wheel if you feel it's needed, Just be sure to strap the wheel down so as to not compress the suspension.

Watch and believe! This is the only way to secure a motorcycle, whether on a trailer or in the bed of a pick up. I've transported many bikes like this and it works. You don't need the expensive straps, just good quality ratchet straps. The last thing you want to do is to compress the suspension, front or rear when transporting a bike. ETA: I just realized they are securing a Tour Deluxe in this video! How apropos !

I've got a lot of work to do before the 16th. A new clutch kit from skydoc_17 needs to be installed (thanks Earl!). A new(to me) trailer needs to be weighed and registered. The trailer lighting electrical converter has to be installed (thanks M16A1MECH!). If the rider's back rest arrives in time, I have that to install also. I should probably do an oil change too. The good news is, I installed the SpeedoDRD and got it set up today. Chomping at the bits for the ride to Niagara!

What Unc said! This is more than an owners group. It's better than any other forum I've ever frequented, be it motor cycle, gun, espresso, or anything else related. Every interaction I have had with anyone associated with this forum has been a positive experience. Whether in person or online, every time, I have benefited from it. I hope I have been a help to others as they have been a help to me. The benefits far out weigh the cost of membership.

I have a new SpeedoDRD waiting at home for the "new" '06. Where is the connector located on the RSV?

You have to hold your tongue in just the right position and stand on your head while your wife or son jiggles the axle around. A few choice explitives can also be useful. When all that fails to produce the desired effect, you go at it again with a beer in one hand. That usually works for me but only if I follow that exact procedure. Leave out one step and you have to start all over again. I considered leaving the chrome rotor covers of many, many times!

Well, My '83 got 29-31 MPG regardless of how I rode her. She was happiest right at 4k rpm but would run all day at 6.5k rpm and not complain. She would also blow the doors of any HD or Gold Wing with out even trying hard. The only bike I ever had any trouble keeping up with was my buddy's GSXR1000. That thing was just a ridiculous HP/Torque machine. My '86 gets 34-39 mpg depending on loading and riding style. She's not as snappy as the '83 but is certainly no slouch at highway speeds. My '06 is averaging 42 mpg but feels like a pig off the line in comparison to the Gen 1 bikes. She's got got plenty of power and torque at almost any rpm but she's just not quick of the line and the clutches slip when I hammer the throttle at any speed. I'm hoping sky_doc17's clutch upgrade fixes this. Regardless of anecdotal recitals, spark plugs and carb sync are the "tune up" musts of the XVZ engine. At some point you may need to look closer at the ignition circuit, i.e. coils, wires and boots. But, if it ain't missing, don't mess with it.

Progressive Suspension part Nos. Gen 1, MK1 and MK2 = 11-1112 Gen 2 = 11-1144

I drove out to Indiana, Pennsylvania yesterday to meet dfitzbiz and pick up the clam shell trailer he had posted for sale. Then I contacted M16A1MECH for some education and ordered his 5 to 4 pin trailer wiring conversion. I have to get the trailer weighed before I can register it, install the wiring harness and clutches before the NY Rally. All that, and I'm going to be travelling for work come Monday for an unknown duration. Hopefully only a couple of days.

The '86 is actually the Sable Brown/Light Birch color scheme. After putting a couple hundred miles on the pillow top seat, I have ordered a rider's back rest and am considering whether or not Beauty is going to see enough road time to justify keeping both. BTW, I ordered Earl's clutch upgrade kit and friction plates. I figure at 98k mi. It'd be foolish to not replace the discs when I do the upgrade.

I thought so. I couldn't find anything in the Clymer manual about adjusting the speedo.