luvmy40

Glad ya'll are OK! Sorry to hear the bike is damaged. My BIL used to hit at least one deer every season. Always in their car or van. I've hit one deer in my life. On my '81 Yamaha Seca! Minimal damage to the bike and I was fine. My shorts? Not so fine! I was on the highway at 10:30 at night heading to work. Moderate traffic and running @ 75MPH. I saw the deer come out of the tree line and jump the 4' fence onto the roadway about 100 yds. ahead. A look in the rear view told me standing on the brakes was not an option so I down shifted and hit WOT. I felt a slight wobble at 85mph as I passed the deer on the right berm. When I got to work, my right rear turn indicactor was dangling from the wires and my license plate was bent up with blood and fur smears. The good news was it gave me a legitimate excuse to update to LED indicators!

I've got a 1982 Yamaha Maxim 750 I would let go cheap.It's on the wrong side of PA for you though. I'm in Youngstown, OH right on the western PA border. The Maxim would need a little work as the carbs need cleaned and the valve clearance should be checked. But she runs as is. Not perfect but reliable. I think the tires are 4 years old but don't hold me to that.

I've got a set of the 3 ton stands that are recalled. I'll take them back this weekend. Thanks for posting this, I had not seen it anywhere else and I usually get a dozen emails a month from HF.

I just realized I never updated the list! 1981 Seca 750 1982 Maxim 750 1983 Venture and the latest, 1986 Venture Royale

You may want to start a new thread on this, but; Yes I have always been able to pull my clutch lever all the way back to the grip on every hydraulic chutch I've ever run. Yes, the slave seal starts leaking into the case when it goes. Break fluid slowly eats the hose liners which is whay it is reccomended to flush your hydraulic systems every two years and replace the lines periodically.

I don't think you've offended anybody here. We're all just bunch of opinionated lop eared varmints and like to hear ourselves speak, or type as the case may be. Stick around for a while, you'll not find a better group anywhere else on the interwebz or in person. Guaranteed!

I don't take offense at "Happy Memorial Day" because I know that it is almost always meant in good faith. However, I do prefer "Remember" as a Memorial Day greeting. I feel it conveys the true gravitas of what the day really means. As a combat veteran who made it home, I am grateful to those who didn't and who, by their sacrifice gave me the honor of being free to live the life I choose to live. REMEMBER

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ What He Said! No, if you have a dead short to ground or an open winding, the hard start capacitor won't help. But if it's a case of corroded contacts, coupled with chewed wires on a 25 year old condensing unit? A little rewiring and a kick in the buttocks might just be the ticket.

Pucster! How ya doin'? Thanks for the nomination, btw. Full disclosure, I'm a commercial refrigeration field engineer. I don't really do much residential HVAC, so: I too fall into the category that thinks there isn't really any way a critter chewed wire fragged your compressor. Stopped it in it's tracks? Yes. Burned it up? No. Repair your wiring issues and if the compressor doesn't start, try this: https://www.walmart.com/ip/spp5-Hard-Start-Super-Boost-Hvac-Relay-and-Start-Capacitor-replacement/586039209?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101017441&adid=22222222227343449096&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=430142005572&wl4=pla-894807573489&wl5=9023957&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=169768588&wl11=online&wl12=586039209&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAjwh472BRAGEiwAvHVfGvi1dZSXTxv0WTb82LjI_lV3S9JMIFOHsZv-UcMmlJVTddmP6BV_hRoCHXMQAvD_BwE It might fix it, it might not, but for $9.00 it's worth a try. BTY, If you can replace a stator coil and rebuild an engine, you can fix your air conditioner.

I could be wrong(imagine that!) But I think the difference between the Royale and Standard are the CLASS, CB and Intercom, and Cruise Control. I.e. the Royale has them and the standard does not. There may be other minor differences like the vanity mirror in the trunk and trim package stuff, IDK. You will want to make the sure the CLASS system works and the shocks are holding pressure. As mentioned, the CLASS is only operational in the ACC key position. You should set the front shocks first and then the rear in case there is any malfunction that would allow the higher pressure from the rear shock to blow the front seals. You are going to want to check the valve clearances ASAP so I wouldn't worry about dinging for oil seepage at the head cover gaskets, and there probably will be a little.

I run my '86 at "Low/Low" for 1 up and "Med/High" 2 up, loaded. I weigh in at 180 as well.

That would be a Knuckle Head. But, it is indeed a beautiful motorcycle. The Pan Head didn't go into production until 1948.

Most Milspec 1911s will not reliably feed anything but FMJ round nose or hard ball lead round nose. Truncated cone or flat nose or semi wad cutters will hang on the very short and steep feed ramp. I can't look at the link from work so I'll check it out later. I'm always looking for affordable, reliable 9mm or .45 acp heaters!

I stand corrected. For some reason I thought it was only the 83 that needed different forks.

As a matter of fact, the only compression issue I've had with any Yamaha has been that my '83 XVZ12TK had higher than spec compression across the board and she still runs circles around all the local Wings and Hawgs.

You will need: A set of R6 calipers, '03'04 fit but there may be other years that fit as well. Either an R6 front master cylinder or a Gen1 Mk2 front master cylinder. I highly recommend Skydoc_17's delinking brake line kt but it may not be an absolute necessity. The calipers bolt right on. the rest of the job is self explanatory.

Never been a civilian LEO but I'll bet you'll find it interesting that when I started working for the US Postal Service, I took the same oath that I had taken many times before with the Army and again later with the Airforce. I would imagine that most police departments would have an oath similar if not identical to the military oath.

Finally had a dry, semi warm morning so I rode to work today.

There is no oil pressure warning light on the Gen 1 that I am aware of. Only a level warning. Which can come on even when the fill level is correct, under high acceleration or on and extreme grade hill situation.

I've never had any issues with the spin on filter adapter. Are you sure you are using the correct filter? I use Purolater L25288 cans. If you have the same adapter I do, it will have several holes drilled into the edged of the adapter plate. Just use a drift punch or a larger cross tip screw driver stuck into the holes to turn it off counter clockwise. Make sure you have all the parts for the factory filter canister and stack them in the right order.

You do have the air box and intake sleeves off, right? Personally, I've always pulled the carbs to get at the valves.

I'm likely to be flamed for this, but Helmets are inclement weather gear and stunt/sport kit. I would never run a hair scramble or Moto GP with out a helmet but if it ain't raining or snowing, I don't cover up on the highway. That said, I use cheap Hawk (Leather up.com) modular helmets because they keep me dry and warm and don't break the bank.

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1986/xvz13dsc/carburetor $13.86 from partzilla.com Item # 8

Not what the OP is looking for but, The A/F mixture screw assy. is still available from Yamaha at a very reasonable price. You can't get just the spring though.

Cool! I checked about 15 different vanity codes related to the Beast and all were taken. Then I realized how stupid expensive vanity plates are in Ohio and I was glad everything was taken!