luvmy40

The Gen1, MK1 only has a neutral light, no gear position indicator. It may be that it was only the Standard model that has only the neutral light. Not for sure on that. I do know my '83 Standard just has the neutral light and my '86 Royale has the gear position indicator.

Ask me how many times I had to take the Carbs off of The Beast:8:

After a Second look, it looks like we are seeing the end that should be connected to the intake boot with a screw in it. I'd bet the other end is going to the Boost Sensor.

Looks like it's on the manifold to me.

PM skydoc_17. You might as well replace the rubber hoses in the clutch line and Earl (skydoc_17)makes a kit for that purpose. He will have the engine cover gaskets and the crush washer for you too. I'd also take a look at the area where the stator wires come through the front engine case and seal that up if it looks like it's leaking, and it probably is. I'd also invest in a cheap, Harbor Freight vacuum bleed pump. They take most of the hassle out of bleeding the clutch system.

Sounds about right to me. The power band with the XVZ1300 is something like 4k-6.5K rpm. No need for a 6th gear, unless you have a need to cruise all day at 100+ MPH These old girls will run all day long at 6500 RPM with no problems at all.

The CLASS modules are the same for the MK1 and MK2 models. The water pump elbow should be the same as well, though I am not 100% certain of that.

I put a set of the Kenda Kruz on The Beast for my son a month or so ago. The rear was a major pain to get the bead seated and it lost seal after a couple weeks. I'm not blaming the tire, but I've never had that happen before. I haven't been home long enough to take a look at it since it happened and the boy is too busy at work to anything with it. I'll be waiting to read your report on the Kendas!

Well, most of the kids on the crotch rockets are on their first bike with a learner's permit and the Wingers are all embarrassed that Beauty can beat them up and take their lunch money:stickpoke: But, Yes I always toss a low wave to a fellow enthusiast. Harley, Hyabusa, or Scooter. Two wheels and a power plant are the only requirements.

When you get everything done, you will have one of the best rides ever put on the road. The '83s cannot be beat by any other touring bike ever produced. Fast, nimble darned good looking, and(now) nearly bullet proof. There's not a stock Wing or any other Venture that can truly compete with the MK1, IMHO. If not for the second Gear issue and the frame problem, I would have never gone over to the MK2.

I'm back in Connecticut for a few weeks so it will be a bit before I can look at anything. I'm just going by the way The Beast acted with the enricher engaged. She would start up at 1500 rpm or so on full enrichment and then the revs would climb steadily after 20 seconds or so and I could decrease enrichment to keep the rpms around 1500 until she idled at 1000rpm without enrichment. All this in about a minute or so.

My '83's compression was(is) in the 160-180 psi range across the board and she runs like a Beast! Not the greatest fuel economy, 32 MPG on the best days, but that's the only issue I ever had.

If you get the Loan A Tool set from AZ it will have the correct adapter included. There are several schools of thought on the proper procedure for a compression test. The constants are: 1. Fuel Pump electrics disconnected 2. Spark plugs all pulled 3. CDI disconnected or spark plugs grounded 4. Throttle wide open, or carbs pulled. 5. Booster pack or charger attached to battery. At the the very least, a freshly charged battery. Here's where the thoughts differ: Yamaha service manual says to crank the engine over until the pressure stops increasing. Some folks have a favorite number of "cranks" 3, 5, 6 revolutions, what ever. I tend to stick to the factory service manual recommendations on these kind of tests.

First Stupid Question: Are you running it with the "new" air box installed and closed up with the air filter in place? These engines will idle OK and throttle up slowly for a bit then bog horribly if run with the air box of or open.

Here's what is happening: 1986 VR, Cold start, 50 deg. F ambient temp. Enricher fully actuated Hit the start button and she starts right up and idles around 2200 rpm After a few seconds(maybe 30) the idle drops to under 1000 rpm and she stalls shortly there after. At this point the enricher lever does nothing at any position. Once warm, she idles smooth around 1000 rpm. I synchronized the carbs a couple months ago. Any thoughts?

I missed the chance for a MK2 luggage rack on ebay at a reasonable price:( If anyone has one or knows where I can get one, please let me know. Rich

Puc, It's a single CV carb, vacuum operated fuel pump and external petcock. The sprockets look decent, the chain is pretty rusty but I think it's salvageable. All the engine, carb, transmission parts are readily available as they are from the '99('98?) to 2007 Virago 250. A new aftermarket carb can be had for $20.00, OEM for $60.00+/-. I've already ordered a new speedo cable, tail light/ turn signal assembly and AGM battery for the project. Next will be a running light bar for the front.

I was unexpectedly sent out to Connecticut for a few weeks so Kris is on her own working on her bike. Here's what it looks like today. She's got most of the obstructions stripped away and is working on developing a wiring diagram. We can't find one that is completely accurate anywhere. Before I left, I was able to get the fuel system re-plumbed and the bike fired up and ran as well as could be expected with the exhaust removed. Everything else is really cosmetic at this point.

I would have sworn the vacuum advance connected at the manifold on the MK2s. I don't know if the #2 carb has a blocked vacuum port or not. I'm out of town for a couple weeks so I can't go look at Beauty to verify.

Yes, you can get to the seat bolts by removing the side bag lids. It wasn't too bad. I did have to do nearly everything twice because I forgot things along the way. A bit of a learning curve but the next time should be smooth.

I went with 5/8" spacers and 14oz. of 10 w fork oil from Progressive.

I see how that would work though I'm not sure it will work in my case. Maybe, just not 100%. The reason it may not work for me is that the OP added lights to the red reflector above the rear chrome bar. The wiring runs behind the license plate mount and the lights come through the plastic.

Yesterday, the Boy and I put new shoes on The Beast, Kenda Kruz. Today my son swapped out the plastics for the batch that I picked up on Craig's List a week or two ago. The "new" plastic is in much better condition than the old. Only a few minor repairs will need to be made eventually and they are all invisible. Now we just need to keep watch for a blonde front fender and trunk at decent prices to finish the transformation. Does anyone know if the cross bar supports that run on the side of the engine are interchangeable from MK1 to MK2? I know there are some differences, but will the MK2 bars go on the MK1? The blonde engine covers are from an MK2. They are fairly secure But I'd feel better if they ad the bottom mount attached.

All I saw was the Pittsburgh Steeler's colors. I completely missed the coat of arms or what ever that emblem is. Military Unit?

BOO! BOO! BOO! :banana::banana::banana: Jack Lambert went to my high school, btw.