luvmy40

Kris was reading yesterday that the Red Cross was trying stop private aid in the form of food and water from being provided. She also read that FEMA has not responded in any way yet. Though that may be because, evidently, the governors involved had not declared a state of emergency at that point. ???

Looks like you did a great job! Now get to CTFW!

Congratulations!

Is that a Trike body? That lighter blue panel will definitely get in the way of the mounts I have. There may be different mounts available.

Ignitech makes a programable replacement TCI/CDI. I ran one on my '83. https://www.ignitech.cz/en/

Use a soldering iron to heat the nut.

I'll second the Kuryakyn Long Horns.

This little kit from Harbor Freight is "The Mott's"! https://www.harborfreight.com/locking-flex-head-ratchet-and-bit-set-35-piece-58074.html?_br_psugg_q=icon+wrench+set

There is no "trick" or technique that I have heard of for this PITA process. What works for me is to lube the rubber adapters with a tiny bit of silicone lubricant and get the carb bank started as best you can. Then use a good, solid wood hammer handle or length of 2x2 to pry against the frame top member to force the carbs down into the boots.

I paid $2300.00 for my '06 a few years ago, but it was close to 100K on the odometer. Otherwise in nearly mint condition.

Yes, the Gen1 MK1 had linked bakes. Rear and right front(IIRC) on the pedal and the left front on the grip. @skydoc_17 sells a delinking kit. If you already have R6 calipers on the front you are ahead of the game. Those, Earl's delinking kit and a higher flow front MC will make a world of difference in the stopping power. I don't remember if you want a Gen1 MK2 front MC or a Gen2 front MC. Earl will chime in on this, hopefully.

Looking good!

The relay could certainly be faulty, just do a continuity test across the relay contacts when the horn button is held down.

Yep

Unfortunately, the frame rot is all internal until it breaks. Odds are it's OK though. I've brought 2 CLASS modules back to life by re-soldering the pins on the board. I seem to recall seeing a Hello Kitty themed Venture at one point. Not sure if it was here or elsewhere.

If you can get it up on the center stand without help, the frame isn't broken, yet. Carl covered everything else quite well. Losing second gear really isn't that big of a deal. Not optimal, obviously but it's easy enough to just skip second on the fly. If she's running on all four cylinders, idles smooth and accelerates like a scalded dog, excepting the broken frame possibility, she's a keeper.

Here's one on ebay. There may be other sources. https://www.ebay.com/itm/261045385834?itmmeta=01J3Z08MSW56YJ4HGHRC5CQG0Y&hash=item3cc7847a6a:g:faMAAOxygo9Q52wb&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAFmq8N7wBeHbhg8zGmOVGWzdutQ6VMLi754HeVztURzbrNCrUK4u79HkYqwnvBzjUx1obo0KAvYEFajLt3LznMC%2Fxrc3cqyg%2BMdD2MfRYiZdkGpXZPYSLp8yILkEyadWMcxJWgRgbx%2FMllszyzDcWEWdwkAv1xhspSzKBT1eol%2BZGg1Cf4cD0l59WRfdXlDF0mWjeyK%2F33NFHg4bZeG%2BbmatJSWWPYPPHPNzGQqFC45XkzaJfxrfVnGCGW7QgIyDfJSNdxmbvpD0Yn%2BIN6hjlB2z32MaBvuSYiMblIOBwPv8NHnSXj%2FiXtNhg0ew%2FBvkF4nmwiAcZ%2BBEPvuEjMJ7cj4%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4bNouCfZA

There is a "swing test". Someone correct me if I am remembering this wrong. With the front tire off the ground, nudge the front wheel left or right from center. Moderate push. It should swing to the stop and bounce back slightly. There should be no visible play at the neck when lifting the wheel. There is a torque spec for the center nut, but I do not recall what it is.

My '83 didn't get squirrely at all at any speed. In fact, it settled down and hugged the road around 90 mph. Over 100 mph, the front end did lighten up, but it never got loose.

There are a lot of things that could come into play in this scenario. First question would be wheel balancing. Did you balance when you installed the new Kendas? Next check would be the steering neck bearings and adjustment. Then I would look at the swingarm bushings/bearings.

I'm finally going to be home long enough to actually ride some. So, I gave the old girl her annual bath. The plastics all look great, but the wind screen is starting to show the years. I'll likely have to replace it before next season.

I've got a left side rear header pipe. Shipping to Canada would be stupid but it's here if you can't work anything else out.

I sold the '83 and '86 VRs but kept the 2006 RSV. I have a gen 1 center stand given to me by another forum member. One of these days I'll dig up the post that steps through installing it on the RSV, but I travel a lot with my job, so time is limited for the hobbies. I'm also looking for a project candidate for a bobbed short hopper. I'd like a rigid, pre '84 Sportster, but the Honda Magnas look nice bobbed. Maybe a Yamaha Virago?

My '06 has 110K +/- on the clock. It was surreal moment when I watched the odometer turn 100,000. According to the PO, the valves have never been adjusted. Feels and sounds good, pulls hard in all gears, no oil leaking from the rocker box gaskets, so I plan on letting sleeping dogs lie.

My youngest daughter's Honda Pilot threw a VVT, Bank 2 code. It persisted after a crank case flush and oil change. So, I ordered the Bank 2 VVT solenoid block and scheduled the morning for the repair. As with most repairs these days, there is more time involved getting all the ancillary stuff out of the way than the repair takes. This job was not so bad in comparison to some. I just had to undo a dozen electrical connections, pop the plastic wire race off the mount and unbolt the race mount from the front rocker cover to get the whole shebang out of the way to get to the mounting bolts for the VVT solenoid block. Getting at some of the electrical connectors was the hardest part. Extended reach hose pliers were required. After that, it was five minutes work to remove the three mounting bolts, pop the solenoid block off and remove the old gasket and divider plate. Five more minutes to put it back together finger tight and 20 seconds with a ratchet to snap one of the NEW mounting bolts off flush with the head. Of course, I don't have an easy out small enough, so off to AutoZone. I took it slow and, very carefully center punched the bolt, drilled it out about 1/2" deep and chucked my new 1/8-1/4" Easy Out up in the cordless. For a welcome change, the bolt turned right out, no problem. I cleaned everything up with a magnet and paper towels, and used the old bolts to put it back together. It's running right and sounds good. The whole job would have been under an hour if that NEW bolt hadn't snapped with less than 2 ft. pounds of torque.