luvmy40

Earl @skydoc_17 is still active on this forum and still, as far as know producing his excellent delinking kits on demand. I would message him again. He's probably just taking a break or otherwise busy right now.

I'm sure you already know this but, make sure to bench sync the carbs before reinstalling them.

Kris and I have been talking about doing some landscaping clean up on the back side of our small, park like back yard. We got a couple estimates to remove some over grown and/or out of place pine trees and just generally clean up the layout. I was amazed at the $10,000.00+ prices! Today I decided to start on the job myself. I tackled one of the smaller, out of place blue spruce trees at the back of the lot. It was about 8" di. at the base and 25 feet or so tall. My Bauer(Harbor Freight) 18V 10" chain saw made short work of felling, limbing, and sectioning the evergreen. One 5Ahr battery still had 2/3 charge after it was all said and done. I'm thoroughly impressed with this inexpensive tool that I bought as a onetime use item for pruning a 40 year old apple tree last spring.

The valve cover bolts are indeed shouldered. I had badly leaking cover gaskets on my '83 and did did the shims when I replaced the gaskets. None of them were very bad, but a couple exhaust shims were just slightly out of spec. I have no idea what the odometer said at that time. My '86 had 75k+ miles on it when I sold it and it had never had the valves adjusted. The valve cover gaskets were just starting to seep a bit 2 years ago. My'06 has 120K on the clock and has never had the valves adjusted and the gaskets are tight as a drum. No seepage at all. It runs great.

At least one local Yamaha dealership near me will exchange shims for free. One For One. It does mean nearly double the work, but it is nice that they do this.

I had a set of studs fabricated to replace the handle bar mounting nuts that extended inward and provide a couple places for bar mounted accessories. I found them to be well worth the effort.

Kris was reading yesterday that the Red Cross was trying stop private aid in the form of food and water from being provided. She also read that FEMA has not responded in any way yet. Though that may be because, evidently, the governors involved had not declared a state of emergency at that point. ???

Looks like you did a great job! Now get to CTFW!

Congratulations!

Is that a Trike body? That lighter blue panel will definitely get in the way of the mounts I have. There may be different mounts available.

Ignitech makes a programable replacement TCI/CDI. I ran one on my '83. https://www.ignitech.cz/en/

Use a soldering iron to heat the nut.

I'll second the Kuryakyn Long Horns.

This little kit from Harbor Freight is "The Mott's"! https://www.harborfreight.com/locking-flex-head-ratchet-and-bit-set-35-piece-58074.html?_br_psugg_q=icon+wrench+set

There is no "trick" or technique that I have heard of for this PITA process. What works for me is to lube the rubber adapters with a tiny bit of silicone lubricant and get the carb bank started as best you can. Then use a good, solid wood hammer handle or length of 2x2 to pry against the frame top member to force the carbs down into the boots.

I paid $2300.00 for my '06 a few years ago, but it was close to 100K on the odometer. Otherwise in nearly mint condition.

Yes, the Gen1 MK1 had linked bakes. Rear and right front(IIRC) on the pedal and the left front on the grip. @skydoc_17 sells a delinking kit. If you already have R6 calipers on the front you are ahead of the game. Those, Earl's delinking kit and a higher flow front MC will make a world of difference in the stopping power. I don't remember if you want a Gen1 MK2 front MC or a Gen2 front MC. Earl will chime in on this, hopefully.

Looking good!

The relay could certainly be faulty, just do a continuity test across the relay contacts when the horn button is held down.

Yep

Unfortunately, the frame rot is all internal until it breaks. Odds are it's OK though. I've brought 2 CLASS modules back to life by re-soldering the pins on the board. I seem to recall seeing a Hello Kitty themed Venture at one point. Not sure if it was here or elsewhere.

If you can get it up on the center stand without help, the frame isn't broken, yet. Carl covered everything else quite well. Losing second gear really isn't that big of a deal. Not optimal, obviously but it's easy enough to just skip second on the fly. If she's running on all four cylinders, idles smooth and accelerates like a scalded dog, excepting the broken frame possibility, she's a keeper.

Here's one on ebay. There may be other sources. https://www.ebay.com/itm/261045385834?itmmeta=01J3Z08MSW56YJ4HGHRC5CQG0Y&hash=item3cc7847a6a:g:faMAAOxygo9Q52wb&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAFmq8N7wBeHbhg8zGmOVGWzdutQ6VMLi754HeVztURzbrNCrUK4u79HkYqwnvBzjUx1obo0KAvYEFajLt3LznMC%2Fxrc3cqyg%2BMdD2MfRYiZdkGpXZPYSLp8yILkEyadWMcxJWgRgbx%2FMllszyzDcWEWdwkAv1xhspSzKBT1eol%2BZGg1Cf4cD0l59WRfdXlDF0mWjeyK%2F33NFHg4bZeG%2BbmatJSWWPYPPHPNzGQqFC45XkzaJfxrfVnGCGW7QgIyDfJSNdxmbvpD0Yn%2BIN6hjlB2z32MaBvuSYiMblIOBwPv8NHnSXj%2FiXtNhg0ew%2FBvkF4nmwiAcZ%2BBEPvuEjMJ7cj4%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4bNouCfZA

There is a "swing test". Someone correct me if I am remembering this wrong. With the front tire off the ground, nudge the front wheel left or right from center. Moderate push. It should swing to the stop and bounce back slightly. There should be no visible play at the neck when lifting the wheel. There is a torque spec for the center nut, but I do not recall what it is.

My '83 didn't get squirrely at all at any speed. In fact, it settled down and hugged the road around 90 mph. Over 100 mph, the front end did lighten up, but it never got loose.