luvmy40

Thank you all for your prayers! Status up date: The heart catheter showed no arterial blockage. There is some concern that the the aeortal arch that was replaced 20 years ago has some leakage. There are differing reports on whether there was or wasn't a "heart attack" and how severe the damage may be. Kris is in good spirits and not suffering any pain, other than that inflicted by being bed ridden in the CICU. More tests to come.

Kris has been admitted at University Hospital tonight. Test indicate she suffered a heart attack Thursday and did not know it. I have no details yet, she will be having a heart cath done tonight or in the morning. Please keep her in your prayers. I should add that she is not in pain and seems to be fine right now.

The connector is behind the left side cover under the seat. I don't remember if it came with Make/Model specific instructions or not.

My '06 has a similar problem. I'm not sure it stops accelerating at 80 mph, I've never let it get that far. I haven't even started trouble shooting yet.

I think I'll talk to Earl about the delinking kit. I didn't want to get that deep, iJust wanted to get them working so I can sell it. I only have room to keep one long term and the "06 gets far more ride time than the '86. As much as I love both, one has to go.

Nope, Not firm at all. No pressure build up.

Right about the beginning of the COVID madness, I bought a 2006 RSV and my '86 was put into storage. When we bought the new house, a little over a year ago now, I pulled it out to ride it to a storage unit closer to the new homestead. I found the rear brake pedal was mushy and went "to the floor" with little effect on braking. I looked for sings of leaks, found nothing. The rear reservoir was completely full. I figured the rear master needed rebuilt. I didn't have time then to do anything with it. BTW, it is still the factory, linked configuration. I just got around to rebuilding the rear MC and it definitely needed it. With everything back together, using a Mity Vac and brake bleeder kit, I cannot get fluid to either the rear caliper or the bleeder at the steering neck. When I crack the banjo nut that feeds the front line, I get a rush of fluid when pressing the pedal. With the banjo nut tight, there is no pressure built up at all when pumping the pedal and the reservoir level never drops when pulling a vacuum on either bleeder fitting. Any Ideas?

What Steve said! I also tend to look at the buy sell here before going to Partzilla. If it's something Earl might have, I contact him first.

While I agree with your devotion to the Yam V4, I have to laugh at referring to it as an an old school devotion. The V twin has been around since 1908.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01860HLCU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Would this work to lift the front end?

Praying for your speedy recovery.

Damon's CD/Videos are top notch.

Reported

Unfortunately, I had to put them up for the season. The '86 is in my garage so I can rebuild the brake MCs and the '06 is in a storage unit a few miles away. I'm going to have to pull the rear wheel off the '06 to find a tire leak and the rear shock need rebuilt.

NICE!!

So, which bolts and how did they lock the crank?

The new engine crank doesn't rotate?

We need more, gooder pictures! Did you have to do new cables/hoses for the ape hangers or were you able to reroute the OEM cabling? How much extra rise over stock is there? Details man! We need details! Looks good regardless!

Well, I learn something new every day!

My cruise is inop as well. I just reverse the lid and drink left handed. It's really not a big deal.

What he said!

OK fella's, educate me. What's the purpose of a rear rated tire on the front and why reverse the rotation?

I hadn't considered that it might not completely fail instantly in a hydrolock case. I hade an exhaust valve disintegrate in a shovel head(bored and stroked) at 80 mph and spray shrapnel on the car in the right lane beside me. That had similar symptoms. Loud bang, complete loss of power instantly.

If you were running at 60 mph when this happened, it could not be a hydrolock issue. That happens when starting the engine. You are certain the engine is siezed? Any chance it's just a blown main fuse? When they go they can make a very loud "POP", and would take out everything electrical. Also a seized engine at 60 MPH would lock up your rear wheel instantly, unless your clutches are in very bad condition.