luvmy40

RANGE REPORT: The GFY-1 does not like the Fiocchi Defense Dynamics 2-3/4" 00 ammo. Not enough oomf to cycle the action. I had a few 3" 00 of unknown brand and they ran fine. My hand loaded 2-3/4" hot 1 oz. 7.5 shot trap loads ran fine. The Fiocchi is only rated @ 1250 fps. I've never chronographed my trap loads. I'm going to be on the lookout for some higher velocity 00 rounds.

This was an impulse buy. I'd never seen or heard of G Force Arms before yesterday. I've always wanted a bullpup, but I was leaning toward the Keltec RFB .308. I was actually wanting a Beretta or Benelli M4 style clone before I saw this guy. It's true purpose is home defense, not run and gun competition. Anyway, I almost had some serious buyer's remorse when I started looking at the YouTube reviews. The first 2 that popped up were less than stellar. Nutnfancy(sp?) hated it. He went on and on about how stupid it looked with the 10 round magazine in place, now heavy it is(bullpup, duh!), how heavy the trigger was(bullpup, Duh!), blah, blah, blah. Then he complained that it could not be fired with the barrel shroud removed, which he did anyway and the gun fell apart. He had many FTE failures, but he was shooting light birdshot loads from an after market extended magazine, and the gun is designed for high velocity, heavy buck shot loads. Then I remembered that Nutnfancy is a bloviating idiot, and rarely has any actual good information included in his content. The next review on the list didn't really help either. The reviewer had a catastrophic malfunction very early on. The barrel shroud, which is an integral part of the gun, not just cosmetic was coming loose and falling off while firing. He stated that GFA was sending him a new shroud, and that they thought it must have been a manufacturing error in the threads of the shroud. His shroud threaded on very loosely with lots of play. Mine is very snug, with no play when threading it on. Every other review I found was net positive. Decent trigger(for a bullpup), well balanced, easy to manipulate, familiar AR style controls, etc. They all experience some level of unreliable operation with light loads but 2 or 3 said that after break in and few clean/lube sessions, it ran the lighter stuff fairly well and was 100% reliable with 00 loads We plan on taking it out to the range today. I'll post up my thoughts on it later.

I picked this beauty up at a gun show this morning. G Force GFY-1 auto loader bull pup 12ga. We went to stock up on AR mags and couple other mags for the Tom Cat and Sub 2000. I had been wanting another auto loader to compliment my Savage 720. I was thinking maybe a Turkish made Beretta clone, then I saw these and the Tokarev version of the same gun. According to the dealer, G Force is an American owned company that manufactures the components in the U.S. and ships them to Turkey for assembly and imports the finished product. Somehow this is less expensive than assembling them in the U.S. Go figure.

Now that is some good old Yankee Engineering!

Depending on the height/pull back of the risers, you may have to reroute or replace your cables/hoses.

Most of the switches can be easily repaired. Sometimes(most times?) they just need cleaned. Just be very careful when disassembling them. They have a tendency to throw tiny springs and ball bearings around. A good practice is to work on them inside a plastic bag.

There is a troubleshooting procedure for the cruise control in the factory service manual. My '06 also has cruise control issues. It powers up and seems to take a setting but then will accelerate to full throttle. I haven't taken the time to run through the diagnostic procedure as I rarely used the CC on my '86, and it worked fine.

It doesn't do anything automatically. You have to have the key in the accessory position and tell the system to pump to a preset or manually set a pressure. Always work front tire first. If you see an error code, you likely need to re-solder the connector pins on the circuit board. It's a relatively easy job.

I liked the Shinko 777 the one time I had them on my '86. They rode well and gripped in turns. The rear lasted as long as any lower priced rear I ever ran. I am running the Nexen SB802 on the rear of my RSV now. I have found the horror stories to be so much urban legend fodder. The tire works well in every aspect for me. We also have Nexens on Kris' car. So far, we are happy with them in both applications. Not trying to start a Dark Side argument, just another data pint

Not really any help but, my 2006 has a similar habit. I have found that if I hold the choke rod out for few seconds after starting it stays put better.

I just sent Ignitech the year, make and model of my Venture and they sent me the CDI and, IIRC a pigtail. No set up. No programming. My '83 ran like a scalded dog with the Ignitech module.

Make sure you email Ignitech to be sure the CDI you get works for the '83. It is different(or was when I bought mine) than the '84 and up boxes. Something about the spark advance or vacuum boost if am remembering correctly. BTW, the Ignitech module made all the difference in the world with my '83. I too had chased everything in the ignition system before I bought the Ignitech. I should have bought one from the beginning. Though, in the end, everything I replaced, probably did need replaced anyway.

Weekend of Oct. 6 looks good for me right now. Unfortunately, my schedule is never set in stone and can change daily.

If I'm home, I'm in.

How's about Hocking Hills?

Yep, Gen 1 MK1

DOH! 😶

Don, Kris and I will keep you and Eileen in our prayers, as always. Sadly, my tech skills end at the most basic level concerning web site management. However, do not hesitate to call me if you need any help with HVAC/Refrigeration, carpentry, electrical or anything else, for that matter. We are here for you as you have been here for us, and always will be.

Kris and I have been buying and refurbishing older Kitchenaid stand mixers. A surprisingly fun and rewarding hobby! When our youngest saw the powder blue bowl lift mixer we are keeping for our own use, she was "Jelly" So, we tracked down a heavy duty bowl lift for her as a birthday present. She doesn't have room in her small town house kitchen for it to live on the counter, so I made a rolling storage stand for it. The stand/cabinet is made from recovered oak plywood( a legacy entertainment center the PO of our home left behind). The butcher block top is part of an industrial work bench top that I salvaged. Cut down, routed and refinished.

Looking Good! The CLASS error will likely be remidied by resoldering the connector to the board. Quick and easy fix.

Based on the OP's description of the repeated symptoms, I'd say it's debris/gunk in the proportioning valve, and/or the brake hose to the rear slave is delaminated and blocking return flow. Definitely time for a flush and new hoses. I have never been very good about maintaining brakes properly. I tend to ignore them until they fail in some manor. Stupid, I know, but it still a fact. I am going to make a concerted effort and set up a schedule to flush the brakes periodically and be more proactive. I thought the brakes on my '83(all original parts) were good until I rebuilt the MCs and installed new hoses, Earl's delink kit. There was a night and day difference in the feel and performance.

Luke, come to the dark side

What tire do you have on the front? In my experience, tracking has more to do with the front tire tread patern than anything else. That is if you are not experiencing steering head wobbling or feeling like it's tracking on a smooth road surface.

I'm just a belt and suspenders kind of guy. I'd seal it from the inside and out side.

That seal on the stator wires is probably the culprit. The only way I know of to fix it is to pull that cover, romove the wires/seal from the case, clean the area and seal/wires thoroughly with alcohol and seal it back in place with RTV.