luvmy40

If you have the extra scratch, I'd say go for it. I wouldn't go more than $1000.00 USD unless it is in really great shape as far the plastics go. The seat is a non issue. I'm sure I have one stashed somewhere. If the plastics are intact and not held together with duct tape and hope, everything else is fixable. I'm always leery of a PO that claims the carbs are "rebuilt", unless they are a long time member here or at XJbikes. com. Most riders have no idea what is actually involved with a carb rebuild. If you've never ridden an 83 XVZ1200 in good mechanical condition, you are in for a treat! They have more power and jump off the line than most bikes half their weight. They handle like a dream at 100 mph and are darn nimble at parking lot speeds. If the seat height was 4" lower, they would be the perfect touring bike. I have an '83, an '86 and an '06. I will say the '06 is more comfortable for me as a vertically deficient individual, but the '83 out performs the '86 and the '06 in every way mechanically.

Take a look at the XJ750RH front brake system. The lever actuates the master which is mounted below the top triple tree via cable linkage. It might be possible to modify this to work for your clutch. Not sayin' it'll be easy, but...

Kris and I will be praying for a speedy recovery.

I know I am one of the biggest proponents of OEM or at least Japanese after market for gaskets, BUT... The one time cheap worked was with the valve cover cushions. The valve cover gaskets I got with them were worthless, but the bolt cushions worked fine with an OEM gasket on my '83.

So, I have been in Tampa and Nashville for the last couple of weeks so I am a bit late racking the Imperial Red Ale to keg. Its nice and clear with great, malty body. It's going to fantastic once carbonated. Unfortunately, I missed my initial gravity so it's not technically an imperial. 6.26% ABV

Earl, Kris wanted me to give you a hearty "Welcome!" to the zipper club. You are in our prayers daily.

I'll take one!

Prayers up. Best wishes from me and Kris.

I used this method on my XJs but I haven't tried it on the XVZs. The XJ tool was a PITA and it was very easy to get installed incorrectly and crack a head. The XVZ tool works well, but they are hard to find. Fortunately I have one. It's good to hear the wire tie works on these engines.

Is this an out of state transfer? That's the only time the Ohio BMV wants to match engine and vin #s. Even then, they accept several third party agency affidavits and the last OS transfer I did(also on an '06 RSV) the inspector didn't even look at the engine. She just verified the VIN matched the NY title and signed off.

I started brewing about 12 years ago, IIRC. I picked up a kit at e Renny Fair my wife and daughter were working and down the rabbit whole I went. One stove top extract batch in bottles and the next run was all grain and kegged. I'll never bottle again! There for a while I was brewing every weekend, but life got in the way. I started my own business and the free time to brew disappeared. Now that I have a little free time again, I decided to get back into brewing. This Brewer's Edge Mash and Boil with Pump works well and definitely simplifies the brew day. It didn't really shorten the day but that may havemore to do with being rusty than anything else. The process is certainly more stream lined and there is something to be said for not transfering all that water by hand. The electronic temp control is fantastic too. Clean up was still about the same, though the grain sleeve was much easier to clean than my 30 gal. mash tun. I, too brew what I like. If anyone wants to sample they are welcome. BTW, the Imperial Red is bubbling away nicely this morning!

I need a bit more than 5 gallons of imperial red ale before I can call a party with this bunch!

I'm sure I've posted other beer brewing topics here in the past. I've been home brewing for many years but have not brewed regularly for a few years. Mostly because my system was cumbersome and time consuming in clean up. I could do 10 gallon, high gravity batches but my brew day was 6-8 hours per batch. I just picked up a Brewer's Edge Mash and Boil with Pump system. It's a lautering Tun and boil kettle in one set up. Now, instead of having a hot liquor tank, mash tun, and boil kettle with separate heating sources that took up 10 feet of counter space and a good bit of floor space, my 5 gallon brew setup fits on a 2'x3' table. This is my first brew with the new setup and, so far all is well!

Are you going to de-link the brakes?

Rotella T4 15w40 IS Shell Dino oil.

My wife and I have winter coats and pants from Nitro, purchased through Leatherup or Dennis Kirk(I don't remember for sure where) about 15 years ago. They have been phenomenal and they were quite affordable. However, on a quick search, it looks like the only new gear available from them are helmets and gloves. Maybe some MotoX stuff. I do like XElement's mesh jackets but I don't have any serious cold whether gear from them.

I'm also a member at XJBikes.com as was MiCarl. I no longer run an XJ but I logged close to 100K combined miles on my '81 Seca 750 and my '82 Maxim 750. The Maxim is now owned by another VR member's grandson and from reports, still going strong. The Seca, sadly was sold in pieces sans blown engine as a project base.

I know my Walmart has a store branded VTwin oil. I just run Rotella in all my wet clutch bikes.

There are 4 coils on them. You can free up enough slack in the wire harness to "swap" coils with out physically moving them to swing test if you have a dead cylinder. When you start on this, you will also want to relocate the CDI box. All the cool kids move them up on top of the air box. It's cooler there and better protected from the elements. Not to mention it makes it much easier to get at if need be. If you determine the CDI is bad, there is an after market, programable replacement from a Czech company called Ignitech. They are reasonably priced and well worth the money.

When you had the carbs out, did you inspect the slide diaphragms? My '83 ran like a scalded dog on three cylinders with the valves all out of whack. It popped and back fired like crazy but it idled nice and accelerated strong. I wound up with a mostly new(ish) ignition system as the real problem was two bad coils, 30+ year old wires and caps and a bad ignition module. The valve shims all had to be changed and I eventually rebuilt the carbs, but before that it ran pretty darn nice. Much better after the carbs and valve job, but not terrible before. You weren't trying to rev it with air box off, were you? That dog won't hunt! It'll idle ok, but bog down and die if you open the throttle with the air box open or off.

These carbs have wire linkages, not a single rod that runs through the adjacent carb body. Compared to the XJ carbs, ours are a bit more intricate/complicated but much more labor friendly. The K&L rebuild kits are high quality and have everything you'l need for a routine rebuild. Item No. 18-2879V Carb Rep Kit KLY-31 YAM:VMX12 Probably already been said, and if you've worked on the XJs you probably already know, but it's worth saying again. STAY AWAY FROM CHINESE PARTS!!!

Sorry, I do not have a CB unit. I picked up a whole bunch of parts from a gen1 MK2 of unknown vintage a couple years ago. I have a radio amp head unit and CLASS, but no CB.😕

I have found a slim wooden rod, like a small hammer handle to be invaluable as a pry bar in removing my '83s carbs. Just be careful not to apply pressure to any linkage.

Gen 1, Right? I might have one. Let me check.

Earl, Sorry man. Donation inbound. Thanks for all the help!