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Showing results for tags 'shaft'.
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I post this for those that may be interested and for those who offered thoughts about a cure. I had posted here a while back about noise in the final of my 650. After 2 months and a ring gear bearing, wheel bearings, new drive shaft, and coupling gear, the noise was still there. So today, after removing the drive shaft, I took out the retaining ring that holds the input shaft and bearings in the final housing. Upon doing so, the cage of the roller bearing fell out. The 7 rivets that hold the cage together, inside the race, thus keeping all the bearing balls seperated and spaced, were broke and the halves of the cage have significant grinding wear. Thankfully there was no damage to the input shaft and the local dealer was able to get the bearing and sleeve pressed off the shaft. I'll have it back next week with new bearings and hopefully be done with this. Just thought I would share my story and findings.
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I have a 2006 RSV. Yesterday, when I went to downshift for the toll booth, I found I had no shifter. It was laying on the foot board. I stopped and slipped it back on to its pivot shaft and got home fine. My question is... What holds it on the shaft? The shaft has a groove machined in it all the around about half way on its length. But I see nothing on the shift lever that indicates how it is held on???? Thank you in advance CG
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I just read through the Kawasaki Voyager thread. I saw several comments disparaging the belt drive. I don't understand the down side of a belt final drive?? I like shaft drive, but I've also owned a RoadStar with belt drive that I thought was just fine. I'd like to know what I'm missing. What makes shaft drive superior to belt?
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I have a small oil leak. It looks like it might be coming from the drive shaft. It's on the pavement just behind the sidestand. It's not much, but I plan on leaving tomorrow for Mississippi. Anybody have any ideas. Is there a place I can check the level in the drive shaft? Don't want any trouble on the road. Thanks for any help you guys can give me. Jackie
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Question to the experts. Is it possible, from lack of grease, for the Coupling Gear to wear enough to allow wobble of the drive shaft? This is not on my RSV but rather on my VStar 650. They are very similar in design. I have been having problems with a noise in the final drive. I disassembled everything (or so I thouhgt) and greased it. Turns out only half of the coulping gear got grease. Upon FULLY disassembling the unit, I grease the end of the drive shaft and the end of the pinion shaft. Upon doing so, the grease truned a nice rust color. After putting everything back together and the wheel on the bike, the "clicking" noise had subsided greatly. I ask about the wobble because there is a small but noticable groove half way round the drive shaft right about where the shaft goes through the housing. I am hoping that the engineers designed all this so that coupling gear ($18 part) would wear out first/fastest so to save the drive shaft ($125) from damage. Do I dare just replace the coupling gear and see if all "clicking" noise goes away? Sort of a one-piece-at-a-time approach?
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I went on a ride to day 7:30AM about 48 degree's all of a sudden a loud whine, Puled in clutch still whine. Slowed down the bike so did the whine just be for complete stop the whine stop. Stared to go again no whine then about 20 miles the whine returned same as before pulled in clutch still whine just before stop it quit. Did this three times in 50 miles. Sound like from the u joint or drive shaft, I greased the final drive and the drive shaft when I put new tire on 11,000 miles ago. Went 150 Miles never happened again, I have a new tire to put on the rear so while it was apart maybe I can fix this if I new what it might be. Thanks, Dale
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When you go to reinsert drive shaft will it slide all the way in and still not be connected right or will it stop before being fully inserted if not connecting right. \ I pulled mine and greased it and it slid right back in no probs so before I button things up would like to know.\ \ Thanks John
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Is it OK to use a synthetic grease on the drive shaft splines, I have a tube of Amsoil 2000 series racing grease which has a lithium complex, it says its good for high and low speed bearings, wheel bearings and any high performance/output equipment. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I'm going to remove the rear wheel to replace the tire and may as well lube the the shaft at the same time. Thanks Ian
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This was parked next to my venture outside the restaurant tonight. Couldn't find the owner though. Not sure that I would ride it on the road. Although, shaft drive and a rubberband used for seat spring. Ya, definitely wouldn't take it on the road...
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Sometime in the recent past, I believe there was a thread about a problem with the output shaft... I didn't pay too much attention, because I hadn't experienced anything like that described - soooo.... Well now guess what..? Yesterday on my way home from work my drive shaft went out. I had had some hard shift / torque lash kinda thing the day before and again right before I pulled up to a stop light. I went to pull away when the light changed and no going anywhere! I could hear the shaft spin at the middle gear area but ut was a stripped gear type of sound. My question is, where can I find the thread where this was discussed before? I tried searching, but no luck, so I am probably using the wrong search terms... Anyone able to help a feeble minded doofus like me?
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I have a 07 venture . i have been looking into tow bars that attach to a trucks hitch and tows with front wheel off the ground. Anyone tried this rig and is it ok with the shaft drive?
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I installed Avon tires today and decided to check the splines on the drive shaft,.. There was a little grease in there, but I stuffed some moly on for insurance. I installed the pumpkin back on as per bulletin and finished putting everything back together. Once off the lift I went to put the bike in gear and heard a strange crunch/clank noise.. bike stalled. I tried repositioning the pumpkin a number of times now and got the rear diff lined up good.. but here's the strange thing.. I can spin the rear tire even if the bike is in gear. I've been reading all the posts here and am thinking that the shaft isn't pushed into the tube all the way.. When I push the drive shaft into the tube is it suppose to seat and not turn? I can't get it to mesh with anything,.. it sort of spins. Do I need to pop the rubber boot off the top of the drive shaft tube (if I can find it) and get the drive shaft to mesh with the gears using the coat hanger hook trick.. ???
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i have a 1983 venture with transmission problems it started under hard acceleration in second gear it made a loud rattling noise then stopped. then started occasional vibaration and metallic clunking noises.through the left footrest and feels like it wants to lock up.it selects all the gears clean and precise i have checked the diff prop shaft and middle gear and cant see anything wrong.I think i may be looking at a clutch problem any ideas ? would be much a appreciated cheers chas.
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I got my pumpkin . I went to Zdeno in kitghner and after a little hunting I found what i wanted and its in good shape Al was kind enough to let me open itup and look inside before buying it, he actually has a few of them mostly for the 1200 and one for a 98. which i believe forthe all intents and purposes is the same as the 1300 first gen other than the shaft is longer but i think could be changed if needed and the addition of a sensor by the pinion shaft. the diff i took cost me 200. Which I thought was an ok deal. I'm thinking of replaceing the seals before putting it into service.
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I removed the final drive differental to grease the splines while I have the rear tire off and when I removed the 4 bolts and the housing the drive shaft came out from the upper (transmisson) end. Looking up in the shaft tube there is a coupling that the splines slide into. My question is how do I get the shaft back into the coupling? Is there a way to get to the coupling from that end? I am going to try to align the two with a small stiff welding rod but if this does not work is there another way? Is there anything else I need to be aware of?
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Having my front tire replaced on my 99 venture by the dealer and reinstalling myself. Can anyone let me know what the torque specs are for the rotors and shaft. Screaming Red
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Hi I am looking for a drive shaft for a 1986 and newer Venture Royal. Today I broke mine on my trike. Don't ask just that I did something I shouldn't of. All I need is the drive shaft. All I can stay is that it made so much noise when it broke and by the time I got it stopped I thought the hole bike was gone. Thank god I was only going slow .But nothing else happened to it so if you know were I can get a new or used more then likely used driveshaft please let me know. Now I have one more thing to fix. I will take the one I have into a driveshaft shope and see what they will say and if it can be fixed. Thanks Guys Bikenut:sick::crying: -
If anyone has used a string to align the rear wheel on your dirt bike (or any chain drive) you will know where I am going. Have had the 04 for about a month now and it always felt like it was pointed a hair to the left going down the road. I just put a new set of Venoms on last week and had everything apart. Even pulled the drive shaft for a check. Every thing looked good, carefully re assembled, axles straight, nothing tweaked, still felt like something was off. Today I did a check (see attached diagram) and sure enough the front wheel is about .4" to the right. Just to make sure I was on the right track I rolled the bike to a different spot on the tire and checked again. Same reading. I balanced the wheels myself and the tires run remarkably true with the wheel. Then I checked the old Vstar and go figure, it is dead on. Bike has never been dropped, no damage what so ever. Can't see any way to adjust. Adding a shim between the drive shaft tube and dif. housing would be moving it the wrong way. Do I just have a bent bike??
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Been home a couple weeks, and with the nicer weather, decided it was time to get the second gear issue taken care of before riding season got into full swing. Spent yesterday afternoon stripping the scoot and hauling out the power pack. Then spent a couple hours in the garage stripping the power pack down, and cleaning the parts. When I had the drive shaft in the parts bath, after I'd gotten all the old grease off her, something didn't quite look right. Under closer inspection, I found that the teeth on the rear of the shaft looked like an ol' Inuit women's smile, half of the teeth were gone. It looks like every tooth is half worn out. So now I'm in the hunt for a replacement drive shaft. Will check with the local cycle salvage yards, but thought I'd post with the real experts and see if anyone has a spare that they'd let go cheap. 84 Venture Royale. Ozzie
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trying to place the small end of the shaft in place:
Guest posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I have spent all day trying to align the small end of the shaft in place, can anyone give me direction on how to do this, I tried the wire with no luck, this is a real pain. -
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I am curious if anyone knows whether you can change out the rear final drive (on an 83-85) with the newer 86 and up pumpkin and drive shaft together? I know the 83-85 has separate drive shaft and final drive so one would have to change out the complete assembly, but if that is possible and it bolts up to the 83-85 swingarm (plus the yoke spine) and matches the rear wheel spline, then it could very well be possible. I need someone who has checked this option out. Louie -
Hey Folks. Need a little advice. Have the wheels off my 89 for tires and am doing the related maintenance and lubrication, fuel filter etc. Question is, at 44k should I remove the drive shaft and take a look, at u joint, lube etc. I have searched this site, the internet and my manual and cannot find any factory recommended service interval, which tells me this is not an issue for an enclosed unit like this. Also what is the recomended service interval for the u-joint. I may be overlooking this info somewhere, but just don't seem to be able to find it at my age anymore, know what I mean?
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Is your Venture vying to look like an old Harley? Last year I developed a leak that I thought was the mid-cover gasket so when I repaired the stator that started to dye and the center bearing in the transmission, I replaced all the gaskets. Now that should have been that, but the leak is still there spotting the floor like a bad puppy. I have let the trike set for a long time (2 months) and noted that the leak was getting worse, so I took a look at the underside of the motor and found the culprit. It was the seal on the shift shaft at the rear of the motor and this was first time that I have had this seal leek. The fix Having a trike to work on will make this easier because I can put the trike on auto ramps that will make the oil go forward in the engine and not have much come out when the Mid-gear & clutch cover are removed. It also gives me an extra 6.5 inches of space under the bike that will make this job a lot easier. If you have a lift it would make this job easier also. 1) Remove seat, tank top, side covers. 2) Note the position of the clamp at the end of the shaft, mark the shaft so you can put it back in the same position. My shaft was marked. Remove the 10MM bolt & Spread the clamp with a blade screwdriver and remove the clamp with the screwdriver and leave it attached to the screwdriver. (See driver.jpg) 3) Place oil collectors under the case covers cuse it’s gonna leak. Now remove the foot pegs, clutch cover & mid-gear cover. 4) Remove the clutch spring (s) & pressure plate. Use a screwdriver to remove the clutch plates keeping them in order so they can be put back in the same position (yes it is important!). (see Rplates.jpg) You do not have to remove the clutch plate held in place with the wire. 5A) Bend the locking tab away from the nut & while holding the clutch boss with Yamaha or home made tool, use a 30MM socket and remove the nut, plunger and ball bearing. (See tool1.jpg) If you have an impact wrench go to 5B 5B) You can use an impact wrench to remove the nut, but you will need the tool to torque the nut when you reinstall the boss. 6) Remove the clutch boss, thrust washer and clutch basket. 7) Lift the claw on the shift mechanism and pull it out about 2” this will clear the seal. (See claw.jpg) 8) I had to make a tool to remove the old seal because I have did not have anything that would do the job. (see tool2.jpg) 9) Be sure to oil the new seal then Install the new seal by taping into place. I did this by using a ¾”socket with wheel bearing grease on the end & 6” extension inserted in the socket backwards. (See tool3.jpg) Now use the female end of the extension to seat the seal into place. 10) Now reinstall the shift shaft by lifting the claw into place on the shift barrel. 11) Install the basket, washer and boss on the shaft and tighten the nut to 50 FT LB holding the boss in place with the tool. Lock the nut in place with the locking tab. 11A If you don’t have a tool to hold the boss & because this shaft is part of the transmission, if you re-attach the bracket to the shift shaft and put the motor in 2ed or 3ed. Then it should be possible to hold the foot brake down and torque to 50 FT LB. I have not tried this but I can’t see why it would not work. 12) Install the clutch plates the way you found them. (See Iplates.jpg) 13) Now reinstall the clutch Ball bearing, plunger, presser and spring(s) torque bolts to 5.8 FT LB. plate (remember to align the dots on the presser plate & basket “See dots.jpg”) 14) Use the screwdriver to put the clamp back on the shaft & a pair of Forceps to put the bolt back in the clamp, tighten clamp with 10MM socket. 15) Put the case covers back on and torque the bolts to 7.2 FT LB 16) Replace foot pegs or the floorboards. 17 Replace any lost oil. [ATTACH]13770[/ATTACH][ATTACH]13771[/ATTACH][ATTACH]13772[/ATTACH][ATTACH]13773[/ATTACH][ATTACH]13774[/ATTACH][ATTACH]13775[/ATTACH][ATTACH]13776[/ATTACH][ATTACH]13777[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]13778[/ATTACH][ATTACH]13779[/ATTACH][ATTACH]13780[/ATTACH] This repair is not particularly difficult, but the space is very small to work in. I did have a problem in removing the old seal and had to make a tool. Fred
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Is your Venture vying to look like an old Harley? Last year I developed a leak that I thought was the mid-cover gasket so when I repaired the stator that started to dye and the center bearing in the transmission, I replaced all the gaskets. Now that should have been that, but the leak is still there spotting the floor like a bad puppy. I have let the trike set for a long time (2 months) and noted that the leak was getting worse, so I took a look at the underside of the motor and found the culprit. It was the seal on the shift shaft at the rear of the motor and this was first time that I have had this seal leek. The fix Having a trike to work on will make this easier because I can put the trike on auto ramps that will make the oil go forward in the engine and not have much come out when the Mid-gear & clutch cover are removed. It also gives me an extra 6.5 inches of space under the bike that will make this job a lot easier. If you have a lift it would make this job easier also. 1) Remove seat, tank top, side covers. 2) Note the position of the clamp at the end of the shaft, mark the shaft so you can put it back in the same position. My shaft was marked. Remove the 10MM bolt & Spread the clamp with a blade screwdriver and remove the clamp with the screwdriver and leave it attached to the screwdriver. (See driver.jpg) 3) Place oil collectors under the case covers cuse it’s gonna leak. Now remove the foot pegs, clutch cover & mid-gear cover. 4) Remove the clutch spring (s) & pressure plate. Use a screwdriver to remove the clutch plates keeping them in order so they can be put back in the same position (yes it is important!). (see Rplates.jpg) You do not have to remove the clutch plate held in place with the wire. 5A) Bend the locking tab away from the nut & while holding the clutch boss with Yamaha or home made tool, use a 30MM socket and remove the nut, plunger and ball bearing. (See tool1.jpg) If you have an impact wrench go to 5B 5B) You can use an impact wrench to remove the nut, but you will need the tool to torque the nut when you reinstall the boss. 6) Remove the clutch boss, thrust washer and clutch basket. 7) Lift the claw on the shift mechanism and pull it out about 2” this will clear the seal. (See claw.jpg) 8) I had to make a tool to remove the old seal because I have did not have anything that would do the job. (see tool2.jpg) 9) Be sure to oil the new seal then Install the new seal by taping into place. I did this by using a ¾”socket with wheel bearing grease on the end & 6” extension inserted in the socket backwards. (See tool3.jpg) Now use the female end of the extension to seat the seal into place. 10) Now reinstall the shift shaft by lifting the claw into place on the shift barrel. 11) Install the basket, washer and boss on the shaft and tighten the nut to 50 FT LB holding the boss in place with the tool. Lock the nut in place with the locking tab. 11A If you don’t have a tool to hold the boss & because this shaft is part of the transmission, if you re-attach the bracket to the shift shaft and put the motor in 2ed or 3ed. Then it should be possible to hold the foot brake down and torque to 50 FT LB. I have not tried this but I can’t see why it would not work. 12) Install the clutch plates the way you found them. (See Iplates.jpg) 13) Now reinstall the clutch Ball bearing, plunger, presser and spring(s) torque bolts to 5.8 FT LB. plate (remember to align the dots on the presser plate & basket “See dots.jpg”) 14) Use the screwdriver to put the clamp back on the shaft & a pair of Forceps to put the bolt back in the clamp, tighten clamp with 10MM socket. 15) Put the case covers back on and torque the bolts to 7.2 FT LB 16) Replace foot pegs or the floorboards. 17 Replace any lost oil. This repair is not particularly difficult, but the space is very small to work in. I did have a problem in removing the old seal and had to make a tool. Fred
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Last night I decided to drop the rear wheel on my NEW 07 (146 miles on her) and check the clutch pins, clutch hub drive splines and drive shaft splines for the amount of grease on them. As you can see by the attached pictures the amount of or should I say the (LACK OF GREASE) on them was ridicules. The pictures of the drive shaft are bit blurry to see but I’ll tell you that the amount of grease on all these parts from the factory would not amount to much more then a tablespoon full. If you have not checked these parts for adequate grease I would highly recommend that you do. It may just save you a lot of aggravation down the road. I'm very glade that I decided to do it, now I can ride without worry. The pictures prove that you can’t trust Yamaha to do it. The repair cost of all the Ventures due to the lack of grease on these bikes from the factory must be costing Mama Yama a bundle in warranty work. You would think that the powers that be at Yamaha would have addressed this by now. If you look at the picture of the drive shaft you will see the seal (red arrow) that bonded itself in the final drive assembly on my 03 due to what I believe was a lack of grease. If you remember I had a lot of trouble removing the drive shaft from the final drive. After asking on this forum why it would not come free as it was supposed to I figured out that it was this seal, which has a metal ring imbedded in the rubber bonded to the inside of the final drive (due to friction) and prevented the drive shaft from coming out. I had to pry this seal out in order to remove the drive shaft. So if you take yours apart and the drive shaft want’s to stay in the final drive assemble this may be your problem.
