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Cdnlouie

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Everything posted by Cdnlouie

  1. Cdnlouie
    Thanks for the good input on this topic as we start the "battery" season again. I appreciate Saddlebum posting that info which kicked off some good discussion. I also appreciate OB-1 weighing in with his experience in the battery world. I do believe his comments are right on the mark and very reality based. Bear in mind, mine was not a name brand battery a Mega Max (who knows what), so maybe better brands do work great. I would have to concur with other observations that battery maintainers may not be a good idea for the AGM's. Just when you start practicing good battery maintenance practice (ie. maintainers) along comes a curve like this that may indicate they are not so good for all batteries. I can't believe mine died while on a maintainer all winter and it happened for two successive seasons, so that may indicate a relationship. I also found that the AGM started the bike two weeks before it died perfectly, and then it just checked out the next time I went to give it a spring warm-up. The comment that AGM's die fast when they die is perhaps warranted. They are there 100% and then they are not (0%). Not a comforting thought. More research into how to maintain an AGM is definitely needed here. I would suspect they need a controlled steady 14.5 volt charge (not more or not less) on somewhat of a regular basis (like running in the bike) to keep them at primetime. Maybe someone can verify that down the road. And they probably do better with no maintainer and just left alone as a lot of people do (except for the careful ones). I do know that I would not lay (at least some AGM's) in any position except upright as I found that during the unsealing phase of my inquiry into its demise I noticed that the individual cell tops are a rubber cap that does release gas (if overcharged) by expanding the cap until it releases into the air. Also if overcharged the battery will balloon out with the pressure with the potential to explode. The caps don't look completely spill proof to me so I would keep them in the upright position as they are not necessarily a truely sealed unit (at least the brand I had was so). I have upgraded my RR to a Mosfet version which really enhances the charging of a regular lead-acid battery, so I think I will go back to this type as it seems to make the biggest difference to my overall system performance (including upgraded battery cables). I have the original stator and it works just fine with the new RR. It really enhances the low speed charging which improves the starting when hot of the old Ventures. I find that it keeps a lead-acid battery well over 13.0 volts quite easily so I don't see any real advantage of the AGM. Nice idea and it may work great for some fellows, but it seems to be a risky venture money-wise. Like OB-1 said "it's your money."
  2. Cdnlouie
    You know, I love the idea of an AGM too. Now, my first AGM was a Magna Charge off of ebay and it was sold as new but the manufacturer date was about 3 years old. It worked great for the first season, but then went dead over the winter while plugged into a battery maintainer (basic type). I boiled the heck out of it in the spring (nothing to lose) and got it working again for one more season (worked great as long as being used in the bike regularly). Did the same thing again the next winter so just decided to recycle it. Maybe I got a bad one here so I can't say that it it is the norm, but it is a bad experience so just tossing it into the ring. So far I prefer the lead acid with a good maintainer and I get lots of years out of them, at least five and usually more with basic Walmart specials.
  3. Cdnlouie
    My 85 Royale is aluminum and I have an 86 VR front end that is also aluminum. Jason, I don't think one slightly lower spot on the aluminum triple tree is going to allow the bearing to tip once it is properly tightened into the race. You are definitely going overboard with perfectionism.
  4. Cdnlouie
    This is an awesome job. I just picked up a Garmin 760 and these should work with it. Will give it a try. Many thanks, this will continue to be a valuable database.
  5. Cdnlouie
    Has anyone found a good emulator for the first gen. Venture forks or done it yet? I am rebuilding a set this winter and would love to add an emulator to provide some control over compression damping. A cheap source wouldn't hurt either. I thought I would ressurect this post to see if anyone here has gone down this road. Louie
  6. Cdnlouie
    As an add-on to the cold tire syndrome it is a good idea to remember that as our tires wear they change the profile of the contact patch and the corner section develops a more pronounced edge (hope that sounds right). It means we have less rubber when we lean over into that edge zone, then when it was new. The edge gets sharper and is just waiting for a cold day to surprise us. Even when we get to 50% of our wear we have lost the nice curve and developed a slip-prone tire scenario. I have an 85 VR and when I am enjoying myself down a country twister I frequently run up to the edge (and maybe over, who can tell, since there is no more tread rubber there) on my Dunlop Elite II. My next tire is going to have a bit more tread around the side just in case, because these VR's can really put the sport into touring. There's a time and a place to have fun and for the cold I sit up a lot straighter and 'mind my manners'. P.S. if us Canadians don't drive in cold weather, we don't drive at all
  7. Cdnlouie

    Hey Peter,

     

    Glad you sent a friend request. I was thinking about you the next day and just how you made out. I am heading out to Nova Scotia tomorrow via NY and will be away for about 12 days. I am really looking forward to it. We will have to keep in touch.

     

    Talk to you soon,

     

    Cecil

  8. Cdnlouie

    Hey there,

     

    Just noticed one of you posts I was following and see you are in Maine. I live in Ontario and head back home to New Brunswick via Maine all the time. Love the east coast! I am heading out next week again so hope to dodge a few thunder clouds in process. Always looking for some exciting things to see in Maine. I am meeting up with my wife later in the week in Portland and hope to kick around that area for a day or two.

     

    It's great to be alive and on vacation with your Venture!

  9. Cdnlouie
    One thing that really affects tire wear is the type of pavement you typically drive on. Certain categories of roads use a rougher asphalt that really reduces the rubber life of a motorcycle tire. The ones we typically enjoy riding on. This is something that a rider needs to take into consideration when he purchases a particular tire type because some tire compounds will do better than others for wear depending on where they are being used. Been there done that,
  10. Cdnlouie
    I have a whine while turning corners to the left (85 VR) only and it comes on while leaning off centre and then quiets a bit if you lean it really deep. It occurs at the same 45-50 speed and not under or over. I feel it is the rear tire scalloped profile that started after about 25% worn. One more season and it's gone whether it's worn out or not. A new Avon is the plan. I just replaced the front tire this week and it is light years ahead of the old elite II's.
  11. Cdnlouie
    Yes, "moan" is a good description of the sound. I was trying to think how to describe it and that does it well. Everything is in good shape on my bike including a fresh driveshaft lube so I am thinking it is tire sound. I am due to change out my front one right away so that will knock that one out of the equation. It may take a while to do the rear one yet, but depending on my level of patience I may change it out sooner than later. Good thoughts,
  12. Cdnlouie
    Hey fellows, Just wondering if anyone might have experienced a rear wheel whine while leaning left at 80 Kmh (or 50mph)? It has been around for the last couple of years (at least 10,000 km) and I have not paid much attention to it. You can't really hear it below 80kmh or above 90kmh (55mph). It is just in that one speed zone and only when leaning left. Changing tire pressure does not seem to make any difference either. My gut feeling seems to think that the rear tire might the source of the sound. My Dunlop Elite II is about 40% worn and I can't remember if the sound was there when it was new or not. I am wondering if the cupping from wear is making it do this sound when leaned into the transition edge zone (Ie. between normal straight up running zone & the rarely used corner zone)? I can't remember if I read somewhere that the Firs Gen Venture rear wheel is slightly offset from the front (due to engine design, etc. - I could be wrong here) which could also accentuate the tire sound when leaning to one side more than the other. Another thought is that there may be a rear wheel bearing that might be showing some wear, but I don't have any experience with that on a Venture so I will have to throw it out to you all to see if you have had a similar experience . Thanks for looking, Dr. C.
  13. Cdnlouie
    Thinking about you both as found your post today: 1 Peter 5:7 ...casting all your care upon Him, for He cares for you. This scripture is often a comfort to me and I hope to you as well. Dr. C.
  14. Cdnlouie
    I've put about 500km on the job so far this spring and everything seems pretty nice . Here are the part numbers for the pieces necessary to do the "retorque" of the driven pinion shaft (and the same for a seal replacement). Spacer expansion (collapsible collar) 2H7-17571-01-00 $15.99 Cdn. funds Oil Seal 93101-35085-00 16.99 O-ring 93210-71360-00 5.99 Got about 25000km and still going strong (2012)!
  15. Cdnlouie
    I like your idea Jimbob. I was not aware of this option. Very tempting. Is there a discussion anywhere on this change? I would like to know what the gear ratio change is with the 2nd gen? I would shoot for the high end because the old VR is a tractor for torque, probably keep the original final drive if it cuts down the rpms for cruising at highway speeds. I would love to have higher gearing unless I was pulling a trailor. Can't wait to see how this turns out. I would check your middle gear output shaft though. I just did mine as these have some propensity to loosen up on the tapered bearings and give some slop to the output driveshaft, eventually breaking off the nut (happened to me). Very tricky job to get correct bearing preload on that though. You have to do this procedure with a new crush collar when you replace the rear seal.
  16. Cdnlouie
    You know, I don't have a new one to measure it, but if you look carefully at the outside edge (where the two circlip washers ride on it) you can notice a rounding of the edge. It should be straight cut to the bottom of the slot, but if it rounds toward the top it has wear. If there is wear on the circlips, then it has worn the shaft as the rough edges tear into each other. If your circlips are good then your shaft is probably okay too.
  17. Cdnlouie
    Make sure you check for wear on the main drive axle. On the side where the thrust washer is located (left side of engine). The axle can become worn (as all the pressure and impact is directed to this point) and need to be replaced as well. This wear widens the gap on the drive axle and creates play in the second gear dogs as well.
  18. Cdnlouie
    Gearhead says: "I just discovered that with the rear tire off the ground, it has about 1/4" of vertical play due to slop in those bushings." Way too much, that will cause a wobble! Been there and done that! Very easily induced by slight touch of bars, .25 inch of slop in rear shock linkage can really get the Venture to "dance" quite easily. Replace the bushings in the shock linkage! Eliminate all free play in suspension linkage as that induces weave. "Also, when doing a slow u-turn, I feel the bars wobbling slightly." Check the upper triple tree handle bar mounting pins (where rubber dampeners wear and develop slop). Get someone to hold front wheel and wiggle bars (left to right) to feel movement.
  19. Cdnlouie
    Thanks for posting the pics Squidley! Here are a few notes of explanation for the other little fun things that go with the job: Universal joint - You must remove the clips and watch out because they will flick spring off into the sunset when they release, so put a rag over them to catch them or you will be sorry. - The you have to remove two of the cup bearings, but it makes sense to do them all and repack with grease (and check for wear). Push them out with a vise, you need to use a smaller socket on one side and box end wrench or something else to push out the cup on the other side. - you can then replace the (removed) cup bearing with an 11mm socket on the bearing shaft (it is hard enough so you won't hurt it) and push the opposing cup bearing out the other side (repeat the process for the other two). - Lube the outside of the cup bearing and yoke with oil to allow smooth insertion and removal. Gear Lash - I picked up that great little flexible neck micrometer at a Harbour Freight for maybe $25 and it worked great. It has a vise-grip on the other end which I clamped to the main bike stand. Once you get it in position you lock up the flexible neck and it allows you to check for rotational gear lash. - I simply held the main drive axle nut (behind the left middle gear case, just above footpeg) with a wrench or my other hand (with the bike in gear) and rotated it (forward or back) until it locked with first or second gear and then turned the yoke (clockwise, then counter-clockwise to see how much lash there was between the two pinion gears. Ideally you should measure the lash in a couple of different positions but it is real hard to get more than one spot with the engine in the bike. I turn everything over several times and then rechecked in the same manner again. - You can feel the lash with your hand, and the micrometer makes it measurable for you. This part is pretty straight forward and if you need to change shims then you may have to order the ones that will give you the proper clearance between the gears. In my case the original shim worked perfectly during re-installation. Oil Seal - If you have a nice seal remover you're in luck, but you don't want to pry under it carelessly and ruin your tapered end bearing, so I drilled the seal around the outside and then it just slipped out with a pull from my pliers (clean the bearing well after this). I put a little gasket seal around the metal housing and outside of seal for installation. - A 2.25 inch piece of ABS is an excellent seal installer. I bought a plastic end fitting (2.25 outside and 2.0 inch inside diameter) with the screw out trap so it was easy to tap on the center of the cap to install the seal. Output Shaft Nut - Don't forget to put loctite on the output shaft nut (medium - blue should do it).
  20. Cdnlouie
    Hey, I've got pics, but no way to get them up here! I can email them to you or send them to someone who knows how to post them here.
  21. Cdnlouie
    An update on this journey of learning: Here is my understanding of how to properly torque the rear output shaft after you replace the seal and inner collapsible collar (and maybe bearings if necessary) When I installed the new collar (on the output shaft between the two tapered bearings) it took up to 85 ft-lbs to get it moving to take up the bearing slack (manual indicates 65 ft.lbs.). This seems to indicate that the new collar has much greater strength than the old one. They may have improved these in later models, or the metal fatiques over time and it looses its "spring tension" capability. It works like an old car "leaf spring" and we have all seen them fatique over time. Here was my installation technique: I did have to bring the torque wrench up to 85 ft-lbs in order to get the collar to begin collapsing, in order to take up the bearing slack. I tightened the nut very incrementally. I started with about a quarter turn (to get it moving) and then reduced it to only about 1-2 degrees each time. Basically just feeling the nut barely move until I had taken up any bearing play (no discernable wiggle in the housing), turning the bearing (several times) and then checking again after about 360 degrees. Once the play was gone, I marked the nut location according to the washer underneath with a marker and then just barely moved the nut in 1mm increments (a clockwise rotation measurement according to the nut and washer marks) for about 9-10 mm (from the zero bearing load position) and bearing load felt sufficient (mechanic's intuition here) at this point. As you can see it did not take very much movement to get up to a reasonable (in my opinion) bearing load. In the ideal world a torque wrench measurement would be perfect (.29 -.35 ft.lbs according to manual). I then installed the universal joints and the shaft back into the engine and set the gear lash to .003 with the original shim so I did not need to change anything and it came back to perfect factory specs (.002-.004). It sure feels good when something goes right. Now I am replacing my swingarm bearings while I have it apart as they are definitely worn and that will be a nice little winter project brought to completion, just in time for spring. Cheers fellows P.S. I will post a follow-up once the snow clears and it am able to do a road test).
  22. Cdnlouie
    An update on this journey of learning: Here is my understanding of how to properly torque the rear output shaft after you replace the seal and inner collapsible collar (and maybe bearings if necessary) When I installed the new collar (on the output shaft between the two tapered bearings) it took up to 85 ft-lbs to get it moving to take up the bearing slack (manual indicates 65 ft.lbs.). This seems to indicate that the new collar has much greater strength than the old one. They may have improved these in later models, or the metal fatiques over time and it looses its "spring tension" capability. It works like an old car "leaf spring" and we have all seen them fatique over time. Here was my installation technique: I did have to bring the torque wrench up to 85 ft-lbs in order to get the collar to begin collapsing, in order to take up the bearing slack. I tightened the nut very incrementally. I started with about a quarter turn (to get it moving) and then reduced it to only about 1-2 degrees each time. Basically just feeling the nut barely move until I had taken up any bearing play (no discernable wiggle in the housing), turning the bearing (several times) and then checking again after about 360 degrees. Once the play was gone, I marked the nut location according to the washer underneath with a marker and then just barely moved the nut in 1mm increments (a clockwise rotation measurement according to the nut and washer marks) for about 9-10 mm (from the zero bearing load position) and bearing load felt sufficient (mechanic's intuition here) at this point. As you can see it did not take very much movement to get up to a reasonable (in my opinion) bearing load. In the ideal world a torque wrench measurement would be perfect (.29 -.35 ft.lbs according to manual). I then installed the universal joints and the shaft back into the engine and set the gear lash to .003 with the original shim so I did not need to change anything and it came back to perfect factory specs (.002-.004). It sure feels good when something goes right. Now I am replacing my swingarm bearings while I have it apart as they are definitely worn and that will be a nice little winter project brought to completion, just in time for spring. Cheers fellows P.S. I will post a follow-up once the snow clears and it am able to do a road test).
  23. Cdnlouie
    Re: I am copying my post from "Rear output shaft breaks off nut" for your information here. I agree with Squeeze if the yoke does not move behind the nut your shaft is tight (I would probably be content with leaving it). The only other thing to check for would be having the proper bearing preload as described below. Post reads: Okay, I think that the picture is beginning to come together for me (no thanks to the Yamaha manual). This is my first experience with pinion gears and I was much perplexed by the "standard starting torque" which is stated in the 1st generation manual. I knew it had to be related somehow to the bearing preload, but could not make the technical connection (this is the torque necessary to keep the bearing moving). This is described in no detail in the 1st gen. manual and what is there, is puzzling at best. Apparently, the collapsible collar (expansion collar) works as a spring (it has a rounded centre or half-circle) that bends under tightening until you get your correct bearing preload (more precisely - spinning torque). This does not mean the collar is collapsing, but it is bending which is an important distinction (not described in 1st gen. manual). The new collar is 11.3 mm wide and it does bend down to about 10.3 (which at this point would probably not have its proper bearing preload). The proper procedure requires that you complete this process without overtightening the collar, as it does not spring back or you must replace the collar and try again (a one way process). This whole procedure pretty much demands that you replace the collar when you replace your rear seal, since once you remove the output shaft nut you need to start the bearing preload process all over again or else you cannot be certain you have the correct "spinning torque" (or starting torque) on your output shaft (once you have put the universal yoke back on). The 65 ft-lbs stated in the manual (for the yoke nut) really has no bearing on how tight your yoke nut should be, it just gives you a starting idea of how much effort you need to apply (first time I have ever seen that). After you have tightened the yoke nut (in small stages) you must use the proper torque wrench (this is the key here as it has to be a very delicate instrument) to measure the .4-.5 Nm or .29 -.36 ft-lb of "starting torque". Most likely a beam type torque wrench that will register accurately this small amount of pressure required to keep the bearing (with the torque wrench on the yoke nut) moving (or rotating in the housing). This records the ever so gentle drag on the bearing, and I assume that this drag is measured by gently pushing against the torque wrench with a couple of fingers for about one revolution to see if the torque remainds within these specs throughout the revolution. Additionally, I would think that the bearing should be oiled rather than dry which would probably affect the torque reading. This is all I can figure out about the process, now I will have to give a try.
  24. Cdnlouie
    Okay, I think that the picture is beginning to come together for me (no thanks to the Yamaha manual). This is my first experience with pinion gears and I was much perplexed by the "standard starting torque" which is stated in the 1st generation manual. I knew it had to be related somehow to the bearing preload, but could not make the technical connection (this is the torque necessary to keep the bearing moving). This is described in no detail in the 1st gen. manual and what is there, is puzzling at best. Apparently, the collapsible collar (expansion collar) works as a spring (it has a rounded centre or half-circle) that bends under tightening until you get your correct bearing preload (more precisely - spinning torque). This does not mean the collar is collapsing, but it is bending which is an important distinction (not described in 1st gen. manual). The new collar is 11.3 mm wide and it does bend down to about 10.3 (which at this point would probably not have its proper bearing preload). The proper procedure requires that you complete this process without overtightening the collar, as it does not spring back or you must replace the collar and try again (a one way process). This whole procedure pretty much demands that you replace the collar when you replace your rear seal, since once you remove the output shaft nut you need to start the bearing preload process all over again or else you cannot be certain you have the correct "spinning torque" (or starting torque) on your output shaft (once you have put the universal yoke back on). The 65 ft-lbs stated in the manual (for the yoke nut) really has no bearing on how tight your yoke nut should be, it just gives you a starting idea of how much effort you need to apply (first time I have ever seen that). After you have tightened the yoke nut (in small stages) you must use the proper torque wrench (this is the key here as it has to be a very delicate instrument) to measure the .4-.5 Nm or .29 -.36 ft-lb of "starting torque". Most likely a beam type torque wrench that will register accurately this small amount of pressure required to keep the bearing (with the torque wrench on the yoke nut) moving (or rotating in the housing). This records the ever so gentle drag on the bearing, and I assume that this drag is measured by gently pushing against the torque wrench with a couple of fingers for about one revolution to see if the torque remainds within these specs throughout the revolution. Additionally, I would think that the bearing should be oiled rather than dry which would probably affect the torque reading. This is all I can figure out about the process, now I will have to give a try.
  25. Cdnlouie
    Okay I have finished my installation (just like it says in the glorious Yamaha manual), but I am not particularly satisfied with the results. Has anyone replaced this crush collar and did a retorque? As I mentioned in my previous post the new collar is 1mm wider than what was in the previous two engines (I am assuming wear - 10.3mm compared to 11.3mm for new collar). Obviously, this is going to give a lot more bearing clearance than what was in originally. After torquing the shaft nut to 65 ft. lbs (nice and slow), there is too much free play in the two tapered bearings (one on each side of the output shaft housing to steady the shaft). I have no measurement from the manual for this (except the procedure) and no way of knowing what is normal or allowable (except a gut feeling this is not right). I have been checking the lash with a micrometer (after installing it) and it is set within specs, albeit it is hard to check the rotational lash with the additionnal slop in the bearings (it was hard to tell about the bearing play until you got it mounted back in the engine). At this point the only thing I can do is remove the collar and shave some of it off to be slightly bigger than the worn ones I took out and then re-torque. I don't want to overtorque as crushing the expansion collar is probably not a good idea. I don't think that I can live with the tapered bearing slop (in the output shaft housing) as it gives me the chills thinking what can happen with that. I am wondering if I am missing something here?
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