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Peder_y2k

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Everything posted by Peder_y2k

  1. Look for corrosion where the o-rings contact. I use synthetic on assembly. Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  2. One carb leaking internaly won't make for flooded hard start. Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  3. That much won't evaporate that fast. Check the motor oil level as there could be an internal carb leak draining into a cylinder. Then again, maybe the tank float is caput leading to a false reading. Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  4. Rotella T for them big dogs! $13/gal at Wally's. Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  5. I like fish 'n chips, and the absolute bestest I've ever had is at a little mom & pop called Sea J's in Port Townsend WA USA. I eat there once a year on my annual pilgrimage to that little town, and the food is always as good as the last time. Their fish is fresh, caught right off the coast a few miles offshore from town. Awesome milk shakes as well, served right in the SS mixing cup.........mmmmm just thinking about it is making me drool. And, their prices are cheeeeeeep compared to the big city. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  6. I simply re-bent the grounding tabs and the hot start issue went away. Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  7. Check out the smaller sized windowscreen spline at the hardware store. Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  8. One can simulate sailing/boating standing naked in a cold shower blasted by a breeze box, and throwing $100 bills in the toilet. Had my share of boating as one can tell. Still get out in my solo kayak on Puget Sound and enjoy the rollers from the ferries. No more of the big $$$ stuff for me. Like said about the two happiest days of boaters life..................... -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  9. Everytime I read some of these posts, I think back to the time I read a 1958 car magazine article entitled "Death By Distraction", and the article fostered the idea that the new fangled push button radios were causing drivers to take their attention off the road. The transition from reaching out and instinctively grabbing an easy to find twist knob was being replaced with a system that made you look. 1958 was the time before seat belts and collapsible steering columns.......among other things. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  10. Just a wild guess, but check the mechanicals of the slave cylinder and hand lever for abnormalities. A broken/lose/missing bolt at the cylinder can cause reduced 'throw', and a bad/worn lever can cause the same, with the result of insufficient movement to fully release the clutch. With engine oil hot, blip the throttle several times (while up on the centerstand) to unstick the clutch plates. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  11. Bike in heated storage? Other bike behave same? Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  12. At 65K the carbs are not worn out. Worn out means the butterfly shaft is worn away to the point of unfixable leakage. The carbs just need some repair parts to freshen them up. Pete in Tacoma WA USA
  13. How many miles on the bike? Pete in Tacoma WA USA
  14. Ye pays yer money n take yer chances, even with new stuff! Like in gambling, try to minimize yer losses and that's how to win. Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  15. For small holes one can use plastidip to reseal the rubber, dabbing it on with a toothpick. Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  16. Straight MEK (methyl-ethyl-ketone) from the hardware store at $10 for a quart is what I've used, and an ideal applicator tool is a clean inkjet cartridge refill bottle with the needle tip. Mind you, I've got a full quart left with about 5 drops removed. At that rate, it should last me a lifetime of ABS plastic bikes. The MEK works fast so one must finalize the set quickly. Joints are as strong as original material. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  17. One would need to remove the float cover, then remove the jet body, then unscrew the jets and closely examine the numbers stamped on each jet. The 1200cc engine with YICS has different jet sizes from the 1300cc normally aspirated carb jets. These include the main jet and the 2 pilot jets, among others. Otherwise, the carbs are identical, and are interchangeable. Only difference would be if the jets aren't correct for that engine, driveability issues will soon be evident, such as stumbling, backfire, different roll-on performance, overheat, and plug fouling/damage, poor economy..... most notable under the worst conditions i.e two up riding in the mountains, and consistent high speed on the big slab. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  18. From the pics and description the damage looks easily repaired with a fender, couple doors, and new tire with maybe a wheel, and possibly an alignment. Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  19. Jetting sizes YICS system vs. normal aspiration. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  20. Yeah you can buy me lunch............again. We'll do it on a weekend when we can get together. -Pete
  21. It is time to pull the carbs so you can remove the float covers and remove the needle and pull the needle valve seat out and replace the small o-ring that seals it into the carb casting. These tiny o-rings are often overlooked.......... and are notorious for drying and shrinking that permits fuel to leak right past the valve assembly. Not through it, alongside it. While the carbs are off, replace the original fuel lines with new. As time goes by, the inner wall of the fuel lines begin to crumble and that debris will block the the inlet valve open for sure. Install new fuel hose from the tank thru to the carbs as well as a new fuel filter. Don't respond with any questions or backtalk, just do it. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  22. When camping with my first gen 1, I removed the trunk and side bags to leave at the campsite for my camp partner while I rode to where I could gather firewood and load onto the 'rack' and bring back to camp. On my Mk II, I can't do that, so now I'm left to hook a towline to the crash bars and drag firewood back. Kind of a non issue now as most of my 'camping' is now accomplished with a plastic card and involves a heated/cooled furnished room. I'd prefer to have the removable luggage just in case. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  23. Check to see if there is any front brake grab. A warped or misaligned disc can cause a momentary unbalanced braking action leading to wobble under certain operating conditions. Also, your wheel balancing may not be as accurate as you think. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
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