Peder_y2k

1st Gen top cover (white) produces glare right at eye level at the top 1" of the inside of the w/s.. It's the frontmost area of the top cover that produces the light... some 2 inches of the surface. I could paint the area with flat black........but maybe there are other ideas how to eliminate this glare. Can't block the light with my hand for very long........maybe velcro and old sock .....etc. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

In an effort to stop the oil leak at the chrome side cover screws, I replaced the o-ring on the cover (#12), and used some tiny o-rings on the screws. We'll see how this works.. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

'88 VR 1st gen/Mk2 - Oil leaking at 2 bolts on chrome left side cover. No washers shown in repair parts diagram. What is the fix? Is it the o-ring ref. #12 in the diagram that needs replacement? -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Don't need to remove wheel to get the fuel pump out. IIRC the left rear foot rest needs to be removed to access the pump. Don't know of any direct replacement pump with both inlet and outlet at same end, but a universal 12v car fuel pump will work as long as it was designed for carbureted vehicles. I carry a Facet fuel pump with extra hose as a spare and can fit it to my bike and have it working in 1/2 hour. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Strap up the centerstand.....sagging under G forces....Thanks....I'll give that a try this weekend on my group ride thru the twisties. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

'88VR (Gen1/MkII) 2-up riding, rear susp @ 65psi, damping adj set to #4, and the centerstand 'foot' drags the pavement on hard leaning L&R turns. Is this usual and customary for first contact on hard leans? Centerstand funtions normally and checked it for any abnormalities and found none....just new scrape marks from kissing the pavement:detective: -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

I've used the aluminum based anti-seize for over 30 years and it works even on exhaust bolts. I've used it on exhaust manifold gaskets as well to help seal them. I do believe the copper stuff is better, even if more expensive. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

How to repair these wires to save this perfectly good 12v fuel pump? The insulation on the wires has become stiff resulting in a strained transition into the pump body. As you can see in the images, the wire is beginning to break off. How to fix? -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Don't use the hardware and discount stores double sided foam tape.......it's not good enough. Auto paint stores have the good stuff....3M is the name to look for. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Yamaha XVZ12TK Venture Standing 1/4 mile:12.69 sec. @ 103.92 mph Cycle Magazine 6/1983 Test Specifications.. Yamaha XVZ1300 Standing 1/4 mile: 12.5 sec. @ 104.5 mph. Cycle Magazine 11/86 -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

For cleaning off bugs, I suffer till I get home where I soak a soft cotton washcloth with warm water and a drop of liquid detergeant worked into it, then lay it on the windshield so the moisture will soak off the deposits. Gently wiping the soaked w/s leaves no scratches while removing the dried on bugs. For stubborn bugs, more soak time. Follow up drying with a clean microfiber towel for streak free clarity. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Dan.... don't fool yourself. If 1/4 mile drag race times and end speed is considered as a mark, then the MkII VR1300 is the champ. This was shown in Cycle Magazine test reports. The 1300 is 7 more hp, a few lbs. heavier, but some few 10ths of a second quicker and 2-3 mph faster. There ain't no substitute for cubic inches!! -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

IIRC, there was a Consumer Reports Magazine article several years ago that concluded based on repair surveys, that the '88 and '89 VR was the most trouble free (least amount of dealer repairs) in the entire production series. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Thanks........................ I stand corrected. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Old mechanics proverb........ THAT WHICH IS NEW IS NOT NECESSARILY BETTER -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

This one seems to be a 'smart' charger from the description. Interesting user reviews -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

I have this disease too. I keep scouring Craigslist for bikes under a certain price.....like $200 ....and I find good stuff!!! and can't resist!! That's how I got a low mileage '87 Virago 535 that looks new and runs like new. Now I've got my eye on a '95 Kawasaki Vulcan 750............. and just can't help myself. Fortunately I've run out of garage space..........and trying to do a workaround on that issue. It just never ends. My motto: A FOOL AND HIS MONEY ARE SOON PARTED. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

The brace/holder/support is the floaty part. The caliper simply rides on the brace -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Might be steering head bearings getting loose. That's the usual cause of poor tracking -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

I rerouted the big hose from twinkie to airbox (using a new hose) to dump under the bike frame. This to keep oil vapor out of the airbox........when the vapor condenses, it forms a puddle that leaks out of the airbox and drips on the motor. I prefer it drip on the ground......but the hose doesn't drip. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Wear 'shooting'/'night driving' glasses. The yellow tint causes the pupil of the eye to open and gather more light. I've used them for night skiing and they work very well. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Clive.......... I thought you understood the rear brake caliper 'floats' enough to compensate for uneven disc rotor wear. If your old disc is loose from an incorrectly installed caliper support brace, then you need to review how it is properly assembled. There is a spacer washer (about 4mm thick) that is easily installed on the axle....on the wrong side of the brace. It needs to be on the inside next to the hub, not on the swingarm side. The whole caliper support is free to 'float'/move laterally and to a limited longitudinal angle on its two mounting points. If it is binding due to the washer being in the wrong place, undue stress can be placed on the disc causing damage and uneven wear. Regarding the stainless rotor, it too will corrode, but not nearly as much nor as quickly. If the foundry (metalurgist) puts too much nickle in the steel, it looses heat dispersion qualities and also becomes softer/weaker. Racers don't use stainless, but you are not racing in the carwash where you live. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

The rust should wipe off with a few brake applications. Stay out of the wet and it won't rust. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Well thanks Mike. I've been allergic to pain all my life, so I avoid it. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA