Peder_y2k

Prolly last 'forever' shifting from 1st to 3rd. Should be good for at least 100K miles. The wear/damage issue only occurs under hi power in 2nd gear. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Hmmmm..........high friction steel vs. high friction stainless steel. For stainless steel, they (the foundry) throws in a little nickle for corrosion resistance. Of the two, I'd pick the semi-floating style with the forged aluminum center hub, square rivets, and plain steel rotor friction ring............Just my opinion. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Yes, the mc trickle chargers will work on car batteries. Start by giving the low battery a full charge, then leave it on the trickle charger. After 3-4 days, take the TC off and let the battery rest for 2 hours and then take a voltage reading..........if over 14.4... STOP CHARGING. If the battery voltage rests at 12.6 - 13.2 PERFECT..... then resume using the TC as all is well and then check again in 2 weeks -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Likely a fuel mix problem. The pilot screws may need adjustment for better idle mixture. Carbs may also be dirty and need cleaning. Used any SEAFOAM or TECHRON in the fuel lately? If not, give it a chance to work. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Mike.......... does the label on the can give any indication if the paint is lacquer, acrylic enamel, latex or what? What chemical does it indicate to use for cleanup.....paint thinner, acetone, water, etc? This info is not readily available online....or I just didn't find it. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

A "submersible well pump" is not designed to remain underwater permanently. It is designed to be under water until the water is pumped out and then wait for the water level to rise again and do more pumping. If it stands underwater for a long time, it drowns (floods the internals and shorts the motor). For permanent underwater exposure, the motor needs to be above the water surface with the pump inlet being submerged, usually accomplished with a standpipe with check valve at bottom. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Might have air bubbles in the fluid..........when was the last time the clutch system fluid was changed and system bled of air? Air bubbles in the fluid cause the fluid to expand and disengage the clutch -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

No sanding, only wipe with tack cloth after 15 min. dry time on color, nothing after clearcoat. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21fBWTsdJC4#t=251]ColorRite Aerosol Instructional Video - YouTube[/ame] -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Mike..........what type of paint are you using, and what equipment is it applied with? You're not using a Cowpuc method with a broom are you? -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

To confirm that the compressor motor is bad, you could simply jumper the power wires and see if it responds. If it works, the real problem is the circuit board......usually cracked solder joints at the wire connector terminals. The coolant overflow bottle access door is responsible for putting strain on the connector. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

The mirrors have a tension adjuster screw. Removal of the mirror is not required.....simply pry the rubber shroud upwards and the screw can be seen. The screw has no head, so small pliers can be used to grip. Usually, when a mirror is loose/floppy, the plastic swivel socket is cracked/broken........ only 'repair' is to glue it in place......... -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Newer fridge/freezer designs incorporate a 'magnetic' seal. Adding a foam strip can compromise the magnetic attraction and the door will likely not seal at all. New seals are available at appliance parts dealers. I frequently order off the internet. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA - I have 4 rentals and fixing stuff all the time

Scott.........can that HF bead breaker work on tire/wheel still mounted on bike? Or, does it need to be on flat ground? Inquiring minds want to know......... -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Yup, you simply beat me to the keyboard. If the machine is making ice, then the compressor should still be good enough..........."should be"...... -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Your fridge is a "frost free' design. It uses both a timer and a thermostat to turn on a heater to remove 'frost', then turn that heater off. If the heater is not functioning because of a bad timer, bad thermostat (used to shut off timer when things get cold enough) or bad heater, the result is the frost turns to ice. Timers and thermostats are relatively cheap...under $30 ea....usually. Heaters a bit more. One can use an ohm meter to test the heater, but the t-stat and timer are difficult to test. If the fridge is under 15 y.o, it is cost effective to order and install a new t-stat and timer. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

What tire air pressure should he put into the front and rear tires? FRONT 36 / REAR 40 What suspension air pressure should he put on the front and rear shocks. FRONT 15 / REAR 45 "plans on changing to AmsOil?" The amsoil or any synthetic oil will find a way to leak out where a mineral base oil will not. If the engine has no leaks now, it will start leaking soon with Amsoil. This is due to the age of the seals and gaskets. If the bike was near new, (seals and gaskets not old and hard) the the synthetic would be excellent. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

I've used a C clamp to break the bead of motorcycle tires like Puc has. Need a clamp with large enough 'throat' to permit the pads to fit as close to the rim as possible. I used metal bars under the clamp pads to spread the stress area, and moved them around to better fit as the work progressed. Lubricating the bead contact area as it becomes exposed helps. Also helps to lube the clamp threads. In the 'field' like Puc, one can use spit, urine, coffee, toothpaste.... or whatever for the lube. BTW..... where are the fenders for the outrigger wheels? Fenders are required by law here. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Buildup of condensed water vapor causes internal short. Engine can stop anytime between cold startup and normal operating temps. Easy fix by relocating box. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

I was on a group ride couple weeks ago and asked why a Honda rider used ear plugs under a full face helmet, and his response was the whining noise from the engine/transmission. I have no problem on my '88VR with 1/2 helmet open to all the sounds in the world.....like birds singing. Only time it gets 'noisy' is above 80 mph.... but that's just wind. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

The TCI "box" has vents through which water vapors can enter and cause driveability problems, like stalling in the middle of a busy intersection. On top of the airbox is a traditional relocate point as it is warm and dry there and not subject to water spray from the road. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

I admire people who can keep those antiques running and on the road. Keep up the good work Pete. Thanks................I'm looking forward to the day I don't need to buy new tabs every year.....30 years and it gets a permanent 'collector' plate with no renewal fees ever again -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

I went out to the garage and examined the way the rear disc (non-floating) was put together on my '88VR, and it is indeed a hollow rivet with flat head on the outside, and washer on inside, with pressed over end. If it were my bike, I'd remove the disc and use a tapered punch with big hammer and tighten those rivets up. Worst case scenario is cracking the hollow rivet by whacking it too hard or overdoing it. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Appreciate your guys input and comments. On the concept of rear wheel lockup under hard braking, there is something to be said for interlocked F-R brakes and Anti-Lock brake systems. With my '88VR and previous '83VStd and over 25 years riding these beasts, I've never had a rear wheel lockup despite very hard braking. In fact, I've been guilty of following too close when I've had my feet up on highway pegs and had to grab a very hard handful of front brake only, so hard the tire was barking, but the bike stopped in a straight line and I'm still here. ..just a thought. BTW, that was an excellent reminder to anticipate traffic, and follow at a safe distance for conditions. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

I'm not paying $20 grand for any motorcycle.......no matter how good it is. I just don't have the perception of value at those numbers. I think Yamaha is digging their own grave..............AND, I also think anyone paying that sort of money for a mc is a fool.....hmmm...I seem to be surrounded by fools whenever I ride. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA 45 years mc riding.

I've only read about the sloppy rivets. The manual makes no mention of this condition either. I would think the rivets being a little loose is no issue as there is plenty of material there to maintain the connection between rotor and the mounting plate, so it's not going to fall apart anytime soon.......just may get a little noisy with some clicking sounds. The looseness will only continue to get worse with usage. I suggest you start looking for a good solid replacement and when you find a cost effective deal, buy it. Alternately, maybe the rivets can be tightened in an appropriate press. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA