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Peder_y2k

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Everything posted by Peder_y2k

  1. I've never had a problem with it running high temps either, but I perfer to be set for the odd times I roll into some town with 104°F temps with stop and go traffic, or 92°F mid day mountain pass climbs. I much prefer proper function over cosmetics. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  2. One can 'feel' the difference between oil and brake fluid in the clutch system. Rubbing a sample between your fingers one feels the slipperiness of oil and the brake fluid has very little. Taking a sample of the accumulation under the engine can help determine if the oil seal is leaking and requires repair. The oil seal is an easy removal and replacement. Do it now, or do it later. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  3. So it is a Dunlop tire.......... I've had bad experience with Dunlops - tread separation, and Dunlop would not honor warranty. Will NEVER own Dunlops again -EVER. But as Prariehammer says, its looks cosmetic, but check for tread separation by sliding your hand over the tread as you rotate the wheel and feel for irregularities. If you feel bulges or dips, the tire is junk. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  4. $450 that's one hell of a good deal. I had to pay $800 for mine from a private seller and rent a trailer etc. etc. etc., but then mine started right up after sitting in a carport for 3 years in eastern WA state. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  5. I deliberately removed the vents to permit better engine cooling for a longer lasting engine. It's just not smart to block radiator air flow, and could care less how hot my leg might get on a warm day - I'll just move my feet to the hwy pegs getting my shins out of the hot air flow. Besides, with the vent removed, I can see and reach into the engine better. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  6. Looks like an OK deal for those who don't have a waterproof GPS. Ya pays yer money and takes yer chances. If it fits, wear it! It's only $14 - the price of fish & chips. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  7. item 7 and 20, part #41R-2179E-00-00 BAND $13.38 ea. at Partzilla http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1988/VENTURE+ROYAL+-+XVZ13DU/SIDE+COVER/parts.html -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  8. Lots of oil comming out likely means the PO put to much in the crankcase. No big deal. Some small amount escaping is normal if cover removed with bike on centerstand. Perhaps a new thread about the clutch slave cylinder would be best as more readers might see it and respond. The site will also search for related threads as suggestions before you post your questions. So, begin by clicking on 'post new thread' and enter a question, then watch for the suggestions, read the relative posts, then go back and post your question if not satisfied. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  9. Retainer nut not tight enough. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  10. Difficult to tell from way over here, but pic #2 shows some uneven tread suggesting tread separation. Is that a Dunlop tire? --Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  11. Darn fine color that '88...........same as mine and it gets lots of compliments. If you decide to part it out, send me message as I could use some panels. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  12. Since you insist learning on a VR, I suggest the idle speed be set up around 1300 RPM as this will minimize engine stalling in short radius turns at low speed that will surely dump you if the engine quits. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  13. Ahhh... Mike, there's no rev limiter on the 1st gen like there is on 2nd. 1st gen rev limiter is the right hand on throttle. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  14. Just measure the springs side by side and they should all be right about the same length. If within an inch of each other, they are OK. If not, consider replacing the shortest. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  15. Suggestion.............be patient. I've learned to be patient finding what I want and it has always paid off getting what I want and paying what I think is very fair.. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  16. Gee..........second opinion maybe? -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  17. Put some wax on it and keep it on!!!!!! -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  18. c'mon Zollars......we can't read your mind.....there's no way to tell from your posting, or your public profile what kind of bike you want a short windshield for. Why make us do all the work when all you need to do is type a few words to inform us. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  19. Hey Mike....howya doin since your crash? BTW, if the rad cover is Chinese made stainless steel, be sure to keep a good coat of wax on it because the iron imperfections will produce spot rusting. The wax minimizes the rust reaction. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  20. In my community, anything that hurls a projectile (not ones arm) is considered a firearm (slingshots, BB guns, blowguns, bow&arrow, crossbow, paintball, etc. There are also hunting regs to be considered. With crows being a nuisance, a local cop told me to use .22 'caps' in my rifle and stay out of sight and the muzzle noise would be so quiet the neighbors wouldn't hear or see me to report. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  21. That's the one.. -Pete, in Tacoma Wa USA
  22. Thank you all for responding. Now I know more than I did before. I'm concluding there is NO issue with the generating system. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  23. Problem or no? '88VR The factory manual calls for a measurement of the Stator Coil resistance to be between 0.36 ~ 0.48 ohms at 68F, and my ohm meter measures 0.7 ohms for each wire at the connector. I'm unsure of what to do as the system keeps the battery consistently fully charged, and an onboard digital voltmeter shows 13.9v running at 3000RPM. There's no apparent problem. The system works, and the bike always starts quickly hot or cold, and unused, the battery holds 12.8v for days on end. Testing of the ohm meter itself by contacting the 2 leads to each other results in a reading of 0.4 ohms, so how could all the additional wire of the coil be assigned the same value? It should be higher for all that length in bulk that forms the coil (longer wire = higher resistance). Seems like the 0.7 ohms would be more correct for the stator coils. Input? -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  24. Yeah.....that's it, shaft and coupler.......not axle and coupler. You are better off with new if they are still available. Used from any source could already be half worn out. If you've got the money, consider swapping to an '86-93 type that has a different lubrication system. They should fit and there are some writeups here. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
  25. Dave Clark Five - Glad All Over, Bits and Pieces, Catch Us if You Can, Anyway You Want It, Over and Over, You Got What it Takes [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=77cXbwAiQIc]The dave clark Five Glad all over 1964 - YouTube[/ame] -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
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