Peder_y2k

I get crap out of a dry tank with a shop vacuum cleaner. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

If my memory serves me correctly, the M series tire size designation began around 1986, so the catalog wouldn't list anything earlier ...... but the tire size is the same. Similar to the concept of the 'inch' vs 'metric' crossover . -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Early models have the switch pushing down to cancel, not 'in'.

I encountered this situation once on my '88. I had to reset the system of adjusting screws by turning them all back to no contact with cams and start over. System works perfectly now.

If that fixed it, then the base of the slide spring was not in proper position inside the cover, and when you replaced the cover, it was properly seated. This has happened to me, and was discovered with the finger push. Now I always check my carb work with the finger press of the slide to check for proper spring action and to observe for any sticky-friction.

"also I noticed the left front carb slide not moving at the same point as the other 3" #2 carb has damaged diaphragm, ie holes, rips or tears. Also, diaphragm cover o-ring could be missing. Slide may be partly stuck in bore, check for free movement by pressing it open with your fingers and watching for free return. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

OMG .....SEAFOAM won't work, neither will ANY other fuel system cleaner/additive if the engine won't run on starting fluid. PERIOD! Engine must be running for additives to work. BTW, vice grips pinching fuel lines closed is a great way to damage the internals of the hose and cause bits of the hose liner to break off and block the fuel system somewhere. Not on my bike you don't.... and I'm not going to help you if you have a problem caused by negligence/abuse/misuse of equipment or tools. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Try using starting fluid sprayed (2 -seconds burst) into the air intake of the airbox, then crank start. If the electrical system (all switches and interlocks) and ignition system are working properly, it will start and run momentarily. If it starts on the starting fluid and does not continue to run, the carburetor system is compromised and needs service and/or cleaning. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Time to 'tweak' the pilot screws and double check the synch. With warm engine idleing at 1000rpm, turn the pilot screws inward to a soft stop (closed), and if the engine does not noticeably slow down or stop, the pilot circuit of that carb is compromised. Same if you open the pilot screw way past the usual setting of 2-1/2 turns out, the engine should bog down and stumble. Final tweaking of the pilot screw will be close monitoring of the engine speed, adjust each screw for highest rpm when backing out from closed. If the driveability isn't right, meaning quick throttle response, and no backfire or exhaust pop, then turn the screw out 1/8 turn at a time testing between adjustments as this richens the mixture. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Open a hole in the trunk lid and let it stick its head out. When tired of slobbering and looking around, it can curl up down inside. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

I had a 1953 Jaguar XK120M Coupe, with the 'Red Head' big valve motor, British Racing Green with white wire knock-off wheels. That car was FUN...blew the doors off an early TransAM 400 among other 'thought they were in a fast car' types. Easily cruised the superslab at 150mph, and one time trip Tacoma to Vancouver B.C. in 90 minutes......with my mother in the pass seat, and she had the speedo in front of her. She kept asking if we were going too fast and I replied the speedo was wrong (it wasn't). Nother episode had me passing a State Patrol car going opposite direction at night going almost full throttle at 140mph and watched it make a 'u' turn to chase. I pulled over and waited as I recognized their radio was faster than my car. When the patrolman pulled up, he wanted only to learn about the car and look at the engine. Had to write me a ticket for something, so wrote a warning for loud pipes. I was shaking in my boots as I thought I was going to jail!!! Finally got tired of looking at it and swapped for a black '58 Vette with '65 350hp 327 and posi, muncie 4-speed, and boy could that burn rubber and go fast!!!!. It rather alarmed me that it couldn't hold the road like my Jag, and it tried to kill me, so I sold it to someone that it did kill. Read about it in the papers. The car was totalled. It was sold for enough $$$ that I could pay to finish my final 2 yrs. of college. All the rest of my my cars have been quite pedestrian. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA Added an image from the internet of the Jag, mine had white wire wheels.

The only 'bad' tire I've had with my ventures is DUNLOP. Tread separation at proper inflation, and lots of tread remaining. No adjustment from dunlop either. Bad form. I'll never buy dunlops again.....ever. BTW, That nice tire changing machine from Amazon still needs a bead breaker and tire spoons....so don't close your wallet yet. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

The Fram CH6002 filter is about the least expensive one can find. It has no moving parts so is adequate for the purpose. I buy mine from a hydraulic supply house and last paid $10 for 2 of them. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

OMG...Yamagrl........this is a major project taking way too much time and effort...........unless you've got nothing better to do. I suggest you do as I did, sell/trade the ailing bike and replace with a machine that has the fix like the '86 and up years. If you are anything like me (well experienced in mechanical work) you'll be glad you did. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Anyone got a proper color air scoop for this new guy? BTW, You don't need the front fender "V" cap. I took mine off thinking it is ugly. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Guessing radiator is under tail cone. --Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

6,000 original miles..........AMAZING for an '89VR!!! Welcome to our group, and post pics. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

I just cut a piece of velcro (fuzzy part) and stuck over the hole til I can work on it. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

That's a $$GOOD DEAL$$ for an '88VR, has some good extras i.e custom seat with backrest, Kuryakin Foot Pegs, extra chrome trim. Very clean looking. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Regarding fairing fastners, when in doubt, use a metal bushing. One can make these from a new steel brake line cut to length. the purpose of the bushing being to prevent crushing the plastic, and still have enough contact to snug the connection and prevent squeaks. I have used wide head phillips screws (instead of flanged) when replacements were called for, as these were the only ones found at my local ACE Hardware. I don't think lock washers are necessary. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Gotta be on the heavy side.........probably 1600lb. Lots of nice features, but can't keep the bugs away while cooking. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Those Honda 3-wheeler ATV's (1 front 2 rear) introduced in the late 60's were banned from manufacturing due to turnover injuries and deaths, and were replaced with 4 wheel ATV's. Seems operators didn't recognize objects hit by rear wheel could overturn the rig....they were thinking that since the front wheel missed the object all would be well. Two wheels in front can lead to straddling an object only to have the rear wheel hit and cause a BIG bump that could destabilize the vehicle. Personally, I'd go for the lesser of 2 evils with a LEANING 2 front 1 rear if I had to choose because I couldn't ride a 2 wheeler anymore -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

I'd go to the auto parts store and see what could be a suitable substitute. Fuel filters are usually alike in their filtering characteristics. I am using a std. plastic Fram in-line filter on my VR with zero problems. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Fabulous color scheme!! -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

That tube from the top of the tank is indeed a vent line that routes up alongside the right side of the tank neck and connects to (makes) a 'snorkel' mounted near the filler, and it keeps water and dirt from entering and fuel from draining out when overturned. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA