Peder_y2k

Ahhhh...................wasn't adjusted right. I remember those days too.... was learning on '60's Triumph Bonneville 650. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

I love these bikes also, but I think my 88 handles better, rides better, and has more torque and power, bigger bags and trunk, and gets better two-up fuel economy than my 83 did. For me, the 88 is a superior bike and I'm glad I switched. I just notice the bigger butt when I step behind it. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Low compression can be due to dry piston rings from sitting, or the starting fluid could have washed the oil out of the rings. either add a few drops of motor oil to each cylinder, or once the engine starts it will lubricate itself. The difference in readings just might be a non issue. The diaphragms can be repaired with "Plasti-Dip"..... the stuff used to coat tool handles. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

My 11/86 CYCLE magazine road test indicated the '86 VR 1300 1/4 mile time at 12.55 sec and 104.44 mph. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Hmmm..... got me to thinking about making a carb overflow drain hose extension routing past the hot exhaust system. May consider fitting all 4 hoses into a one larger hose for the purpose. Then if a carb overflows, the fuel will spray out the back and collect on the vehicle tailgating me. Wouldn't that be a hoot if the tailgater caught fire!..........just sayin.... -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Due to the age and miles on your bike, I'd replace the stator with new std. output, and also carry a good TCI box at all times, and a spare v-regulator and fuel pump on long trips. Remember, "All things mechanical and electrical will fail, it's just a matter of when." -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Made me think back to when I spent a month in Japan in the '80's in late winter and discovered their motels had no room heat, but the toilet seats in the western style bathroom was electricly heated. mmmmmm.... nice..... -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Quote: My preferences are:..........Fuel Injection FYI All diesel engines in your chosen category are fuel injected, and driven by an expensive mechanical pump. A used Diesel truck can break the bank if you don't know what you are doing, so bring money, lots of it, and have more money in reserve. With that said, think Dodge as it is likely the better choice in your year 2000 category. It has the Cummins engine which is excellent. The Ford Powerstroke was popular and really pretty good, but I think the Cummins lasts longer before repairs. These trucks don't get very good fuel economy so be prepared at the pump. I don't think they are cost effective unless doing long haul heavy duty use such as towing/carrying something heavy on a regular basis that requires lots of torque for proper handling. Good luck, as you will need it. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

If I was forced to drag a trailer around, weight would be a major influence in my decision. Since weight is the enemy, I like this one at 210lbs: http://www.timeouttrailers.org/Pages/SlipstreamCamper.aspx -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

It was road review articles such as this that helped me choose the Venture way back then, and still ride one today. It was good enough for me then, and still good today. I wouldn't change if I could. The bike is still perfect for those two up mountain all-day rides that my lady and I enjoy so much. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

For consideration, one could add some SEAFOAM to the final drive, then run the bike in gear while up on the centerstand for 5 minutes. This won't hurt the gears or bearings and help flush on immediate draining. Could even use straight acetone for the same purpose. NO SMOKING WITHIN 50FT!!! -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

OK, if you can't use the choke/enricher function without compromising cold starting, then the slow speed fuel mix is rich, and the enrichment makes it so rich the spark plug can't ignite it, so the pilot screws need to be adjusted to lean the mix, by turning 'in' 1/4-1/2 turn to begin with. Give it a try and see what happens. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Nowhere did I read that the carbs have been synched, or the pilot screws adjusted properly, or, that any SEAFOAM or other similar fuel system treatment had been used. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

If your charger is NOT a "smart" charger type, then no more than 24hrs charge at 2 amps. Add distilled water only after full charge period. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Excellent touring bike is well designed, just not as good looking as VR gen1. In line 4cyl is quick to make good power. Parts availability is kinda like VRgen1....... parts are where you find them because they are discontinued. If it starts easy, idles smoothly, drives well without making any unusual noises, and doesn't piddle on the ground... go for it. If it doesn't start, lower your buy price to $800 and take the chance. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Honda F6B -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Anti tamper............for those who don't have anything better to do with their time. There are special screwdrivers (dealer shop) for that screw head, but I've never seen one. I used a dremel grinder to remove the little pin down in the recess. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

With this mornings cold start event, I first turned the pilot screws 'out' 1/4 turn and the start process was worse than before. I stopped trying after a few seconds and readjusted the screws 'in' 3/4 turn with the engine still cold and it started immediately and continued running at high idle without fiddling with it. I'd say the cold start mix was rich. The engine warmed up nicely and I could move the enrichment lever to 1/2 in about 30 seconds running, then completely 'off' at one minute. After some warming up, the throttle still has quick response off-idle, and the engine idles relatively smoothly at 1100RPM......... just not as smooth as before. But then it is winter temps here in the 40's and I wasn't out riding, just parked in the driveway. I think I have the solution. Thanks all............. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

So, where are the pics? -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Working on my low mileage (2100) '87 Yamaha Virago xv535 with the air cooled v-twin engine. When warmed up, it runs perfectly, idles smoothly at 1100rpm, has quick throttle response, and has no misfire or exhaust pop, and delvers 55-60mpg routinely. Here's the issue: When cold starting (45*F), and the fuel pump has filled the carbs, I set the enrichment lever at full 'on' and the engine starts immediately, then runs for 2 seconds and begins to stumble to the point I must readjust the lever and can't find a point where the engine will keep running without both tweaking the throttle and fiddling with the enrichment lever to 'help' it along to where it has warmed up enough to stay running. Experimented with setting the lever 1/2 'on' but then it won't start untill readjusted to full on. Warm restarts no problem. The carbs and fuel system are spotless clean inside, carb fuel level is correct, carbs synch'd, enrichment lever and linkages in excellent condition. SEAFOAM in fresh fuel. I thoroughly understand these CV carbs and know more than most people about carbs, but on this one I am stumped. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Definately the right muffler must come completely off to pull the long axle bolt. The left muffler just needs loosening up just a bit to work it away from the nut enough to get the wrench/socket on the nut. Obviously the right saddlebag comes off, and so does the rear fender. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

"I agree! Earlier in the thread I posted details and pictures of how I checked fuel levels " Good boy!!! You can come work on my carbs anytime, just leave the hammer behind. -Pete, in Tacoma WA

Congrats on completing a lengthy and involved motorcycle chore. Been there and done that several times myself. FYI, more important than the float height physical measurement is the actual fluid level inside the carbs. This confirmation is achieved using a clear tube from the drain port and comparing the fluid level seen in the tube to the reference mark on the outside of the carb body. This method is more reliable because an older float can be compromised looking physicly OK, but actually sink because it can absorb fuel when the surface breaks down from age or surface scratch, and can possible hang up if not aligned perfectly. Fluid level is critical in CV carbs because they are very sensitive to vacuum, and vacuum is the energy source for moving fluid inside the carb. If the fluid level is low, slow or delayed throttle response is the result, and if high, the engine runs rich. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

FYI in researching synthetic oils, be aware that there are two groups: the originals made from man made chemicals like polyesters, and the new generation made from highly refined mineral (crude) oils. Castrol tipped the scales of defenition in a court of law action to get their crude oil product labeled as synthetic to fool the public. google it and read all about it. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Must be your neighborhood. I've used my Seattle Craigslist with great success for a number of years now. Sold cars and trucks and motorcycles and machinery and parts, some interstate with zero problems. Sure there are flakes and no-shows and scams, but one learns how to spot them and deal with them accordingly, just like everyday dealings. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA