Peder_y2k

Miles has recently found himself doing other things these days that take him away from involvement here. We should all wish him comfort in his private journey...... -Pete, in Tacoma Wa USA

That part is $10.66 + shipping $6.95 (up to $60 total purchases)from Partzilla. It is an inspection cover, and keeps big dirt clods from getting in the works. Stay out of the dirt clods and you'll be fine.......or, search e-bay for a serviceable used one if you don't want to spring for the new. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

The slack could be taken out by adding some nylon spacer/washers. I see them at my local ACE Hardware fastener section. -Pete, in Tacoma Wa USA

I bought one, but sent it back for a full refund as it would not work. Neither did the software for connecting to my laptop. The unit does NOT have a removable battery, and I think for a rew dollars more, a better camera can be found. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

I had a similar experience late at night once. Bike had been parked for couple hours, then started up for trip home, ten minutes into ride, engine stopped. Coasted into a lighted parking lot and while considering my options that took about 15 minutes to process, decided to try restarting, and it started. Got home OK and soon began investigating, finding that summer evening moisture had entered the TCI unit while parked outside, temporarily shorting it out. While stopped, engine heat rose evaporating the moisture. Relocated the TCI unit to the top of the air cleaner box and never a problem again. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

You can check the condition of your plug wires IN THE DARK by starting the engine and closely observing each wire over its entire length. If you see any blue hazy glow, or a blue web effect, or spark lines, the cables are bad and need replacement. You can also use a long screwdriver to lighty move each wire and see if there is any spark or blue colored effect. If nothing out of the ordinary, then the wires are OK. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

A spitting carb can be the result of a poor performing carb function. This results in an improper fuel mix that causes a reverse pressure condition. Most probable is fuel level being low, or a blockage of the low speed system including pilot that creates a 'lean' mix. Sometimes a leaking fuel inlet valve can create flooding resulting in a 'rich' condition with same spitting result. Other causes are malfunctioning spark plug/s, spark wiring, and ign. coil, but the coil is unlikely a problem. Mechanical issues such as sticking, burned, or leaking cylinder valve/s, but the spitting would occur every piston stroke, and be quite regular. These stated service areas are indeed a PIA to process through. Start by synching the carbs, and clean/new spark plugs, checking plug wires and connecter cap/s, then move to the carbs confirming internal fuel level. From there, try adjusting the pilot screws. Following that, an engine compression test is in order to isolate mechanical issues. There's your start........Good luck........ -Pete, in Tacoma Wa USA

Seem to me to be copying what other manufacturers (Japanese and European) have been doing for years. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

You could make one yourself from hardware store angle iron. I can measure mine and provide dimensions. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Suspecting a fuel delivery problem. Could be anything from debris in the fuel tank to deteriorating fuel lines, blocked filter, or even a failing fuel pump. Need more info from simple tests such as flow rate from fuel hose where it connects to carbs, with ign. turned on for pump to work. May need to cycle ign. switch on-off-on a few times (not cranking) to observe fuel flow to determine if flow rate is normal. If the fuel level inside the carbs is not correct, the engine won't start. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

I also noticed the reference to the front shocks moving independantly while weaving. That must be why we have fork stabilizers, robust ones at that for our heavy bikes. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Check out this old Dunlop tech film on 'wobble and weave'. You'll end up knowing more than you did before!! The info is still relevant today........... -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3OQTU-kE2s]Dunlop Wobble & Weave.wmv - YouTube[/ame]

The lesson here is NEVER turn your bike over to a beginner! -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

I just bought one on E-bay for $9.49 w/ free shipping. (8-17-13) Will use with MP3 player. -Pete, in Tacoma Wa USA

Actually, there are 5 cables. The 4 previously mentioned by Marcarl, plus the 5th one to the cruise control servo unit for bikes with cruise. The cable most often replaced is the short carb 'pull-open' cable with the curved metal tube with cable adjuster, part # 41V-26313-01-00 CABLE, THROTTLE 3 $22.30 at partszilla.com Don't know if this works, but here's a link: http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1988/VENTURE+ROYAL+-+XVZ13DU/CARBURETOR+CALIFORNIA+MODEL/parts.html Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

I simply purchased a new one from partszilla. Not very expensive and quick shipping. I thought it such a bother to change that I shouldn't replace with anything less than new. The one replaced had only one broken strand, and now in the dump. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Are you certain the oil is not residual from removing the cover? -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

I just wonder if taking the gun apart and shipping pieces in a couple pkgs labeled 'machine parts' would work. A gun is basicly a simple machine, and parts and pieces are not a functioning gun. YMMV -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

If that's the case, only a new OEM gasket can be counted on to work. Locally available o-rings just aren't the proper size for the application. Whatever you do, don't force or hammer on the plastic housing as it WILL crack. Use WD40 or oil on the o-ring for easier installation. Replace the drain valve o-rings while you are at it. BTW, starter motor service can be done when things are apart. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Water pump issue (includes drain plug gasket), or, thermostat housing seal, or, directional drain valve seals. May also be hose related. those are most likely causes. Also check coolant temp sensor housing, and overflow tank hoses. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Driveshaft stripped gears, i.e. coupling gear at final drive. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

The clutch end of the push rod is a one-way fit. If one pulls it out a bit when servicing the seal and, or, slave cylinder, then rotating the rod to find the bottom seat is req'd. I wouldn't pull it out in case something inside may 'drop' out of position requiring splitting the case (at worst case), or opening up the clutch. Regarding the seal, it is a rubber coated thin metal cup with the outside surface fitting flush with the engine case. The seal has both an inner seal for the pushrod, plus the perimeter rubber to seal against the engine casting. If there is a washer on the surface of the seal, that should be plainly evident, and easily removed. If the rubber is gone from the seal, it could look like a washer until it rusts. Don't do anything radical until you have the new seal in hand. Post a pic of the 'washer' if you can. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

I saw the dates, but posted anyway for readers doing a search. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Easy removal. Use a sharp point to puncture a small hole in face of seal, then use a 1/8" dia. sheet metal screw. Start the screw in the punched hole, and keep turning. The screw point will thread into the hole and then contact the back metal and the seal will follow/climb the screw threads right out of the hole. This was easier than I thought, as I had planned to use a slide hammer to pull the screw, but when I saw the seal comming out just by turning the screw, the mission was accomplished. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

You'll need to examine the brass plunger end, plus the linkage, and, the cable connection for binding. It's possible something was forced and bent, or misaligned. Try a shot of WD40 on the plunger as well. -Pete, in Tacoma Wa USA